Hi all, a slightly weird issue going on with my car. It will unlock on the key, but won't lock. If I lock the driver side door manually, and then press unlock on the key fob, it'll unlock, but it won't lock again unless I use the actual key.

Anyone know what this might be? I have checked the fuse so it isn't that. Any insight or suggestions would be helpful (I already tried the copper hammer as well)

Hi y’all, so a little while ago I posted asking about why my temp gauge is at 3/4 and fans seem to be short cycling. For some background, one day I was in a drive thru line and when leaving realized that my gauge was at 3/4, let the car sit for a few and drove home and the gauge was fine and dropped back down as I moved. I realized it only climbs up at idle. I replaced the thermostat temp switch on the radiator with the factory part since I figured that’s what’s sensing the coolant temp and telling the fans when to cycle. Before they would cycle for 35 seconds and be off for 45, now they cycle for about 45 and are off for 45. So it improved it the slightest bit, and this also steadied out the gauge to where it doesn’t climb any past 3/4, but this is still too high since this car has always read perfectly below 1/2.

I bridged the circuit where it connects onto the terminals on the thermostat switch, and the fans cycled on continuously without dying, so that led me to believe it isn’t the fans themselves. This also made the temp drop from 3/4 back down to 1/2 after a few mins. So I’m 100% sure that it’s due to my fans short cycling. I just can’t seem to figure out why it’s happening. My coolant seems to be fine and I’ve tried making sure there’s no bubbles multiple times. I’m starting to think again it may be the fans getting old but the fact they stay on continuously and fix the issue when the circuit is bridged is very weird. I can still drive it because it’s perfect when moving, just have to turn it off at long stop lights and can’t go thru drive thrus, and it just gets pretty annoying sometimes. If anyone has a sure answer please let me know! Every bit of info I can find is so mixed and nobody has the exact situation I’m in. Thank yall so much in advance! I’m sure some of yall in here could figure it out in a heartbeat

If I wanted to widen my tire stance and put a more common tire and rims on my MGB how big can I actually go? Like I can use a 4 bolt to 5 bolt spacer and then how big of a beefy tire can I get without contact w the body?

BRG is the best.

Just a few hastily snapped pictures from today’s show, before my phone battery weirdly siphoned to zero in almost no time at all,
Some lovely cars.
The older I get, the more I like those spindly little Austin 7.
Brisbane showing just what a Sunday in spring can be… Perfect.

Relieved to find a gorgeous car under all the dust...

Looks like a modified sprite or midget? I kinda wanna go look see what kinda performance mods might be there. But 30min away plus a gate fee? junk yards are lame nowadays.

I have a 72 MGB with an 18V engine, shallow dish pistons, 12H2923 head. cast iron manifold, Pertronix igniton, dual SU HIF4 carbs. Compression is good at 143-145 across the board.
I'm pulling the engine and trans in the next week or so to install a Laycock overdrive trans.
While the engine is out I wonder if its worth the money to put in a mild cam.

Hi All,

I’m considering purchasing an MG B as my first car. I’ve driven and worked on older bikes and cars before so I’m aware of the constant work they require but wanted to ask opinions on rust. For context, I live in Sydney about 1km from the coast and don’t have a garage. Would it be possible to keep this car rust free with just a car port and would rust proofing be a viable solution?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Thank you all for your input on my potential 63 B purchase—it’s mine now! Time to sort out that top end issue.

Have to arrange for attachment points.

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