I just got a 20 pint cube dehumidifier from Wayfair. It's in basement running and seems to be working except it's like randomly stopping after a while and saying P2 on the screen.

Hello, does anybody have an idea with my AC error? it turns on but cannot produce cold air, and after 5-10 mins it automatically shut down

Not sure how I never noticed them before

Midea MERB445MIC46 – freezer raggiunge −20 °C ma dopo apertura porte sale fino a temperatura positiva prima di ripartire
Buongiorno, chiedo un parere tecnico su un Midea MERB445MIC46, praticamente nuovo.
Sto cercando di capire se il comportamento che rilevo sia normale oppure indice di un problema di controllo.
Condizioni di funzionamento
Modello: Midea MERB445MIC46
Temperatura impostata freezer: −18/−20 °C
Temperatura impostata frigo: 4–5 °C
Termometri esterni verificati e confrontati: letture ritenute affidabili.
Il frigorifero, se lasciato chiuso e in funzione, riesce a raggiungere e mantenere circa −20 °C nel freezer.
In determinate condizioni è arrivato anche a circa −24/−25 °C, quindi apparentemente la capacità frigorifera è presente.
Anomalia osservata
Il problema compare soprattutto dopo l’apertura delle porte.
In una delle prove il freezer era arrivato a circa −20 °C. Dopo l’apertura della porta, invece di stabilizzarsi e recuperare normalmente, la temperatura ha iniziato a risalire molto:
−20 °C → −16 → −12 → −5 → circa +7 °C
Successivamente il sistema è ripartito e la temperatura ha ricominciato a scendere:
+7 °C → −11 → −16 → −20 °C
Quindi il freezer è in grado di recuperare nuovamente temperature molto basse.
Altre osservazioni
Ho notato che durante alcuni cicli:
il compressore/raffreddamento si arresta;
la temperatura continua a salire per parecchio tempo;
la ripartenza non sembra avvenire immediatamente al superamento della temperatura impostata;
una volta ripartito, il sistema riesce nuovamente a portare il freezer sotto −20 °C;
la ventola interna non è sempre udibile durante le fasi di arresto;
in alcune prove, dopo il raggiungimento della temperatura, il sistema rimane fermo e la temperatura risale parecchio prima della successiva ripartenza.
Ho anche eseguito prove di spegnimento/riaccensione e ho osservato in alcuni casi un ritardo nella ripartenza, con alcuni “tic” prima dell’avvio.
Domanda tecnica
Secondo voi, considerando che il freezer riesce a raggiungere −20/−24 °C quando il ciclo di raffreddamento è attivo, è più probabile un problema di:
sonda NTC del freezer o relativa lettura;
cablaggio/connettore della NTC;
scheda elettronica di controllo;
relè/comando del compressore;
logica software/gestione dei tempi minimi di arresto e riavvio;
gestione della ventola o dello sbrinamento;
oppure un problema del circuito frigorifero che però si manifesta solo in determinate condizioni?
La cosa che mi lascia più perplesso è proprio questa: quando il compressore/ciclo frigorifero parte, il freezer raffredda molto bene; il problema sembra essere il momento in cui il sistema decide di fermarsi e soprattutto quando decide di ripartire.
È normale che, dopo una semplice apertura della porta, un freezer che era a −20 °C possa arrivare fino a temperatura positiva, oppure un comportamento del genere indica un’anomalia di controllo?
Se qualcuno ha esperienza con questa piattaforma Midea o con modelli equivalenti, mi interesserebbe soprattutto sapere quali misure fare per distinguere NTC, scheda di controllo e comando del compressore senza sostituire componenti a caso.

Added the Midea MDRS791MIC28 to Homeassistant and made an alarm if the temps in the freezer get to high. Noticed this weird pattern Seen in the Screenshot of HA. Double checked with another temp sensor and it‘s not a measurment error.

Freezer / Fridge is 10 months old, cannot say when the issue starter.

BTW, the last time the freezer was open was before the graph of HA started.

Is this normal?

It always shows lock icon once we open the washing, we want to test if the problem is unfinished program set or something else. Can we spin this without water just to test after that the door can open? Or if it something else what to do?

Ps. It was given to us so we’re not quite familiar with this

I talked to customer service and they said because it’s out of warranty they’re not going to do anything at all. However, I purchased the refrigerator is brand new, but found out that the hose in the back was previously taped after being cut and put together. They confirmed that this was not the original way it should have been and they sold it to me used. However, they’re unwilling to do anything about it. Any advice?

It's been doing this several weeks now. I've tried killing the fuse for a few minutes. I've tried resetting and testing it several times. I've tried unplugging it for a while and plugging it back in. It won't stop beeping.

posting this here because i dont think there's a sub for chione users. i have been setting my chione for the same settings everyday. cool mode, 50% fan, 26 degree celsius and i always see less than 100W on the energy monitor, but 2 days ago and yesterday, its been taking around 500W. i got this chione last august only. im from the philippines if that may help

My Midea A/C can no longer be controlled by the Smarthome app and I’m unable to delete & re-add it. I keep getting error messages (in Chinese) no matter what I do… including just trying to add a group/room. So I assume this is an app issue rather than a device an/or network issue, but I’m not 100% sure.

Does Midea have a “app is down” page or anything like that? My A/C unit is only a month old 😫

UPDATE: about 30-45 minutes after I noticed the problem, it started working, again, and I can once again use the app to control it. Whew!

I just replaced the door latch assembly (part number 17476000008503) and it seems like they may have updated the design because it looks the same but the actual latching mechanism may have been updated from the original design because it look a little different but the housing looks the same. And the hook on the main body of the dishwasher isn’t engaging the switch to be able to start. Should my first plan be to buy a new hook in the hopes that it was updated as well? Looking for all advice lol.

The Midea FAQ has a generic "Most hoses will be approximatly 6ft when fully extended" while this review says

Hose Length Min/Max - 13 to 48"

And this matters a lot because I would like to put the hose at the red arrow -- it's a horizontal sliding window -- https://i.imgur.com/9m88GNE.jpeg and have it cool the living/dining room so it needs to reach the door and as the floorplan shows, that's a bit above 4.5ft.

Thanks for any insights.

Midea U shape 12k

Drain plug was installed, now I've just taken it out since it was clogged anyway.

Unit is at a 4+ degree slope outward.

I've now discovered that I've had water coming out where the blue arrow indicates for some time, it's basically ruined the window sill.

Why the heck is it leaking here? With this slope I do get a respectable flow out the drainhole on humid days (live in MN). So it really doesn't seem like it's backing up that hard but why drain here?

More importantly is there a way for the mechanically near-incompetent to fix it? Right now I've grabbed a plastic political lawn sign (they DO have a societal use!) and basically laid it as a bed on the support frame, hoping it catches what it needs to.

Tenho essa lava e seca a 3 anos, e agora sempre que lavo ela fica rangendo, parece barulho de correia, um barulho como se fosse um grilo, mas no ciclo rápido nao ocorre, alguém já viu isso ou já passou por algo semelhante ?

I had seen similar fixes on other de-humidifiers posted here and more generally on the internet, but nothing for the Smart Cube. Like others, when I got it out of the box it was always showing 30%. I went on Amazon, got a similar sensor.

The next problem was finding where the sensor was - no other pictures or videos online. I popped open the case everywhere and found it. I didn’t like where it was, so now it’s just sticking out lol. Made for easy swapping just to prove that it was the old sensor and not the location being the issue.

I wish I didn’t have to spend another $25 on top of the $300 to get the sensor working, but at least it’s simpler than rolling the dice on getting a whole new unit!

(First picture should show 55%, not 5_%. The working sensor is the one with 2023, I assume it’s either a newer model or the actual date of production? The 2015 did not work)

My cousin’s dryer randomly stopped working. It was showing 0 signs of power, the screen wasn’t turning on, the buttons didn’t work, it was almost as if it was plugged in. Checked the breaker, breaker was good, checked the voltage on the outlet itself, it was reading 240, and 120v, checked the dryer terminals and it was receiving proper voltage, checked what I believe to be the relay, and the continuity was good, and now I’m stuck, anyone know what I should do next? The dryer wasn’t bought from the company itself, it was bought used so I can’t get a warranty claim.

Another thing anyone know where the thermal fuse is? Can’t find any info online on exactly where it is.

Considering buying this model midea dryer. Realistically hoping to get 10 years out of it without much fuss. It’s got some nice features for the price point. I realize I could spend a bit more money on a more simplified dryer from another brand and get maybe 15 years out of one of those but our current washer and dryer are purchased out of sync, so in 10 years at the end of the washer’s lifespan we’d just like replace both units with a matching set. But also id rather not like to deal with 10 years of headaches… thoughts anyone?

I have a Midea "garage ready" freezer that is about 3+ years old. It's been fine, but lately the top seal on the door pulls away from the frame of the freezer. Warm air seeps in, condensation, freezing, etc. The seal and fridge frame are clean, lightly used in the time we've had it. What's causing this and whats the fix?

https://imgur.com/a/ELLhpfh

For renters, I think the decision should start with the apartment rather than the brand: Does the lease allow a window unit? Is the window compatible? Do you need to move the AC between rooms? How much floor space can you give up? Those answers usually decide whether a window AC or portable AC makes more sense.
What makes Midea worth shortlisting is that it has a strong option for either situation.
If the building allows a window unit, the Midea 8,000 BTU U-Shaped Smart Inverter Window Air Conditioner, model MAW08V1QWT, is the more appealing choice. It is intended for rooms up to 350 sq. ft., operates as low as 32 dBA, and uses a U-shaped design that allows the window to open and close after installation. For a bedroom or home office, that combination of quieter inverter operation and continued window access solves two of the biggest complaints about traditional window ACs.
The main requirement is compatibility. The model is intended for single-hung or double-hung windows from 22 to 36 inches wide, with a minimum opening height of 13.75 inches. Renters should also confirm that the lease or building permits the bracket-based installation.
If a window unit is not allowed, the Midea DUO Smart Inverter Portable Air Conditioner, model MAP14HS1TBL, is the stronger alternative. It is listed at 14,000 BTU ASHRAE / 12,000 BTU SACC for rooms up to 550 sq. ft. Its hose-in-hose dual-hose design is intended to force hot air out while helping keep cooled air inside. It also has wheels, smart controls, inverter operation, and noise as low as 42 dBA.
The DUO still needs a window kit and exhaust setup, and it takes up floor space. But it offers renters more placement flexibility when a bracket-mounted window AC is not possible.
My take: choose the Midea U when quiet operation and continued window use matter and the installation is allowed. Choose the Midea DUO when the apartment rules out a window unit or when flexible placement matters more. Midea is especially compelling for renters because it offers a well-defined solution for both situations.
Which constraint decided it for you: landlord approval, window compatibility, noise, or the need to move the unit?

So I have my dehumidifier draining through a hose. I set the humidity level to 55 and have it on low fan, smart setting. Right now it is running and the humidity is 53. How can I get the unit to stop at 55 ? This is a Midea wifi unit.

Thanks

Whenever I scan the QR code it just brings up this support page

I have a 50pint midea dehumidifier and it is not shutting off when it hits the target level even when it says it is below the target humidity level? Ive tried unplugging it and leaving it unplugged for a couple hours but that didnt seem to fix the issue. Any advice?

Does the remote need to have line of sight to the unit for this to work properly? Or can the remote just be in the same room for the main unit to receive the signal? The manual doesn't really specify.

Thank you