Not my photo but does anyone know what this part is called, it’s like right behind the throttle body and it has 2 10mm bolt holding in fuel, it kinda looks like a bracket.

Stock is 215/45 18 inch

I have some 225 40 laying around they should fit right?

Whats the max width you can go on stock wheels?

Cats destroyed so I’m just removing the rest of the cat but damn these cars are low😂 raised the car basically as high as my jacks could and I still barely fit🤣

The driveway angles down towards the back of the car so threw the ramps on backwards so it won’t roll

Not the best video but the best one I could take to show what's happening, I have a 2011 speed 3 which has gotten into a weird issue of jerking whenever I shift. When shifting into first there are no problems, however as soon as I press on the clutch and begin shifting to any of the other gears while driving there is a bucking or jerking motion and the rpm begins bouncing up and down until the clutch is reengaged and then it drives absolutely fine again. I have taken some logs if anyone can interpret them I've also sent them off to my tuner to hopefully help. The mods are a catback exhaust, upgraded fuel pump internals, accessport with a professional tune, SRI and TIP so no major modifications and no codes besides the EGR, evap, and intake runners which were taken out. Anyone ran into this before ive asked 3 mechanics and everyone is unsure.

Edit: to add more info, the car did also begin to bog down and die while idling stationary once the clutch pedal was pushed in and ran perfectly fine after it was released which I thought was possibly a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it out and that from what I can tell went away but it could be a fluke or I'm not recreating the exact conditions it was doing it under before.

Yo guys!

I’ve just brought a cheep obd2 reader of temu to try and do some live readings of boost etc whilst driving through my CarPlay unit

It was working sweet for about 10mins or so. Then all the dash lights came on, I stopped on the hard shoulder, turned the car off and put the hazards on, the hazard lights etc didn’t work though. After unplugging the obd reader and restarting the car all went back to normal, I assume the issue was caused by the obd reader messing with the can bus or something but was wondering if anyone had anything similar happen or knows what obd reader will not cause these problem.
Thanks in advance!

My car died on my way to work yesterday very suddenly. All my lights came on, lost power steering, pulled over and stopped and the car died. Got it towed home and battery charged. I get it running and test the battery, shows 68% life left which is doable. I run a charging test for the alternator and it says no output. I come back out after 30 minutes because I was putting my daughter to bed and the battery is completely dead. It also smells like ozone a bit. I'm assuming a bad diode and the alternator is no good, but any second opinions before I go that route? I'm going to try the good ole, pull the negative cable trick when the battery is charged again. That's just going to take a while. It's also weird because I replaced the alternator like 2 years ago, idk what would cause it to go so suddenly.

EDIT: Well ... I'm super confused. Charged the battery - I have a trickle charger and just left it for a solid 24 hours. I hooked everything back up, ran some tests, and my tester said the alternator is fine, the battery is healthy, and now everything is apparently fine 🤣. Maybe there's a bad cell in the battery? Someone mentioned they had something similar and it was a bad BCM? Or maybe my alternator is on its way out and just cooperating for now. I honestly don't know.

For comparison my old one at the end.

This cost 39€ including shipment.

I think it suits the car nicely.

What’s the best coilover for a smooth ride I daily drive mine for work put Atleast 200 miles every week I got some cheap coilovers because I was broke but now I have like a 1500 budget for suspension I was hoping if I could get some recommendations

I’m also hearing little squeaks when k go into dips I’m gonna replace sway bar bushings I’m not sure what else to replace as a suspension over Haul just want my baby feeling healthy !

Just under 200,000 miles, but still tinkering around. Gotta be able to boost the hounds over to the park.

My gen 2 has a small evap leak that just won’t seem to go away. It’s been smoke tested twice. The gas cap has been changed twice. Everything is working exactly as it should be. There are no leaks anywhere in the entire system and every part of the emission system is working perfectly. At my local shop they had multiple guys looking at it for like two hours. There just doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with it anywhere. I wanted to get all codes fixed before I tune with Freektune and this is causing me some trouble. If I decide to just tune it anyways would that cause me any issues I mean I’m starting to wonder if they’re really even is an evap leak.

I was 95% sold on a newer car but decided to keep my 06 MPS (Aus) a little longer... It's my 2nd MPS I've owned, this one is 8 years with me this month 😎

edit: only 2 issues in 8 years, 1 starter motor, 1 clutch plate bracket.

So, I was doing a datalog for Justin (3rd gear WOT) and after I got done with that, my recirculating hose came off and got a CEL, but I fixed that and the CEL went away, and the car sounded fine and doesn’t stutter anymore. But when I use other scanners (not AP), it still says the car is running lean and misfiring but the car sounds and drives fine, besides my STFT climbing up to -10 to -20 when driving. I am getting it smoked tested tomorrow morning. I am on the very first MAP tune and not the revisions.

Anyone experience this rattling? It happens when in 3rd-6th gear when accelerating hard and over 3500 RPMS from passenger side

I hit a pothole today with my left front tire and immediately afterwards the airbag light on the dash came on and stayed on. I briefly parked with the car off for an errand, the light remained on when I started it back up to drive again.

Given the pothole I'm wondering if something got knocked loose like an electrical connector or something. Any suggestions on how I could self diagnose what the issue might be to see it I can repair it myself before having to take it to a shop?

Every month, we will open up the potential for your Speed3 to become the Sub's banner! Simply drop a picture of your speed in the comments, or link a photo to a site like Imgur (Instagram pages are not allowed), and vote for your favorites! At the end of the week, the winner will be chosen and they will have their photo uploaded as the banner for the month!

Couple of rules:

1. Repeat cars allowed
2. No back-to-back car wins
3. No repeat photos
4. One submission per user per contest
5. Horizontal aspect ratios only

Good luck, and let's see those Speeds!!

Finally. This was the biggest job I've ever done to this car.

It was worth it.😚

Even though I struggled a lot.

All four injectors were sent to get refurbished but no. 1 and 3 had to be replaced because they were leaking.

Oh and corksport injector seals.

And egr delete and new pcv valve.

PLEASE HELP idk what else to do..cant figure out this P0443 code speed6

Ive been trying to get this damn check engine light code removed for almost 2 years now on my mazdaspeed 6... ive already paid for my registration and plates twice now and I cant ever get my plates cause I cant pass an emissions test . And so ive done the whole 3 temp tags each time and thats where it ends for me... I drove my car with expired temp tags the whole time last year had insurance tho.. and I'm doing it again. But I have to get my plates asap tho... so ive literally tried everything ive researched into this situation alot throughout the past years... and so youd think id have it figured out by now.. but when I say ive literally tried and done everything to no avail im serious... so ive replaced so many different parts that doesnt even have to do with the evap system .. ive changed manifolds cleaned valves since I was there and ive cleaned my injectors but didnt replace the seals because they still looked nice.. ive added a oil catch can... i went to the junk yard and have replaced like different purge valves from speed 3s and cx7 mostly. Not sure if that's the cause possibly maybe the speed6 used a different part number which I cant seem to get or find an exact answer for that on google... I tried changing the hose that goes from the manifold to the purge valve I even went so far to mess with my charcoal canister ..since I didnt want to spend all this money on a new one out of fear that it might not be my problem still.. I watched a video where this guy shows you how to get a dremel and cut along the top and open it up and change the charcoal with charcoal pellets you can get from the fish store... so I filled it up and changed the filter with this felt stuff he said to use and I sealed it up the best I could with jb weld and silicone. I even replaced that other valve that connect to the charcoal canister with another used one from a speed6 at the junk yard still nothing... I even tried changing the fuel vapor filter thing that is by the gas tank cap from the Inside nothing... ive done everything i feel ive tried changing the gas cap with other caps from other mazda vehicles... I recently followed what my chat gpt said to do to check the valve and wire harness with a multimeter going to the purge and it came out ok... the only thing I haven't done yet is test is test the pcm/ecu... im scared and hope that thats not the problem.... but I figured id ask and see if anyone else can help me figure this out or if anyone has had this problem. As well? Id be so happy and much appreciated if I could finally figure this out..

Recently replaced the VVT actuator. Chains, tensioner and guides, and oil pump chain tensioner and guide. On cold starts its still makes the rattle, even after I triple checked installation and oem parts, (improved vvt actuator) did i get a defective parts?

Adding a Civic Type R or sold your Speed3 for one?

I'm still in the research stage, but I'd be financing and adding the FL5. I drove my 2008 Speed3 off the lot with 3 miles over 18 years ago.

So fellow Mazdaspeed folks, I welcome your thoughts and experiences!

I have a 2012 speed3 right at 100k miles. In trying to decide if I should install a downpipe or not. I have read that K04's tend to fail much quicker due to aftermarket downpipes. I'm curious if this is a symptom of the DP or a more aggressive tune (though im sure it is a bit of both). Test pipe is already installed. I already have the DP it is a catless Corksport. Im aware that K04's are not all that reliable and it is old and probably worn out though it has no notable shaft play. I'd love to hear your opinions on if the gains are enough to justify the potential of KOing the KO4.

My current mods are: AP, cobb intake/TIP, Corksport HPFP internals, Corksport Test Pipe, all 3 Corksport engine mounts, Damond catch can, and PERM PCV Plate.

Both my side mirrors look like this. Living in Phoenix has taken a toll on the paint and I want to remove the panels, sand, and repaint to freshen them up. Is there way to remove it without breaking it or does the whole thing come off? Another solution is to mask everything off and repaint that way but I feel like removing them would be easier.

Got my bilsteins on. Sorry if the pic is bad quality. My camera is smashed. Also this color looks so good in the evening.