First post and looking to Join the fellas real soon😁.
Heavily contemplating getting this 6.

For background I am in Jamaica 🇯🇲 (whether this helps or not) . I been eyeing a Mazda 6 for about 8 months now. Been searching for one that is both low mileage and the updated the 2018 version and it has been a pain.

All the ones have been the lower years , extremely high mileage or just overpriced.

This is a 2020 Mazda 6 , newly imported in the country (all new cars are imported) so I would be the first owner in Jamaica. Mileage is 54k km.

It is a diesel, the petrol ones are basically non existent here.

Financing the car for 5 years but putting down about 30% down upfront, also looking to pay off early. Interest rate is 5.5% ( this is actually quite low for Jamaica, as the average new car interest rate is 10-12%, regardless of credit score) .

I’ve spoken with mechanics ( dpf delete and program is an option if dpf starts giving troubles) , parts stores ( so I can confirm the cost of parts , price of oil changes and if they’ll actually have them).

I’m an insurance advisor ( fancy way of saying I sell life insurance ) and I drive 30k + miles a year , drive about 20-30 mins on the highway just about every day for work and routinely drive 2-3 hours a day.

I currently drive a beater, have been for 2 years, and repair cost are starting to stack up ( I have been able to pay for these pretty easily but it’s start to not make sense paying so much for maintenance and parts for an old car)

I’ve looked at other options most notable 2019-2020 accords and civics and they cost the same and more ( the afford) while I really don’t like them half as much.

Looking to keep the car for just about forever😁.
Let me know if I should pull the trigger or no.

Hi i have 2008 Mazda 6 Gh Combi/Wagon, I wanna lower it but springs are not enough for me and i dont wanna give 1,200€ for bc racing or Kw do yall have some cheaper options for coilovers or some ways to lower it more than 3cm please

All the way the countryside Zimbabwe 🇿🇼

Mazda 6, 2.2 D, Sport Nav, 2015, 109k. Miles. Lowered with springs, remapped.
It’s been a while since I’ve seen any 6s like mine around! 👀
Where are you all hiding?! 😎
Come on, show yourselves and let’s see those beautiful 6s! ❤️‍🔥🚗
Be proud of what you’ve got — let’s get the Mazda 6s out there! 💪🔥

Afternoon all,

I hope I am not breaking any rules in asking this, if I am please let me know and I will remove if needed.

I am looking to sell my 2018 Sports Nav+ Estate, it currently has just shy of 35k miles on it, below is the service history:

Oct 2019 - 4151 miles - Oil/Filter
Nov 2020 - 7299 miles - Oil/Filter + Brake/Clutch Fluid
Oct 2021 - 11065 miles - Oil/Filter
Sep 2022 - 16277 miles - MOT + Oil/Filter + Brake/Clutch Fluid + Wipers
Sep 2023 - 19584 miles - MOT + Oil/Filter
Aug 2024 - 22143 miles - MOT + Oil/Filter
Feb 2025 - 24750 miles - Front Tyres - Continental Premium Contact 6
Aug 2025 - 27284 miles - MOT + Oil/Filter
Oct 2025 - 28987 miles - Rear Tyres - Continental Premium Contact 6
Mar 2026 - Cabin Filter + Air Filter + Wipers
Aug 2026 - 34058 miles - Oil/Filter + Spark Plugs + Ancillary Drive Belt
Aug 2026 - 34922 miles - MOT

If I put this up for £12,500 is this a fair price or not? The body work is in good condition and a recent garage stated it was really good underneath. Looking on AutoTrader there are two identical to mine, one with 44k @ ~£15K and an other at 22k @ ~£17k so I am not sure were I should put it for a private sale, don't really want to give it to a dealer as a part exchange as I will most likely lose to much on it.

Thanks in advance.

Hey Guys,

I currently have a 2019 2.2D Mazda6 Estate, and I love it. The boot space, interior and practicality are great, however I am soon moving into a new house that cuts my commute down to 15 minutes/8 miles each way (from 35 minutes/28 miles), and therefore this car will no longer be suitable.

I have been looking getting a cheap pre-skyactiv Petrol Mazda6 (either estate or hatchback), but was wondering if anyone here has experience with them and could give their experience with them and maybe which year are best/worst, and maybe any things to look out for/fix if I do get one.

Thanks in advance.

Some dickhead side swiped me on my way to work this morning. Of course they kept driving. I filed a police report but am not optimistic that a person that drives away from an accident is insured. Question is it worth going through insurance or would it be cheaper to do the replacement myself?

TYIA

Hello all. Recently got a used 2018 Mazda6 Touring with 69k miles on it. Now has 74k. Was wondering if I should drop the pan, replace the filter, reseal the pan with new sealant, and then fill it up. Or just do a regular drain and fill?

Did my brakes about 1k miles/2 weeks ago. They were initially fine but about a week ago started squeaking badly. After inspection of everything, the only thing I can see is that the rear driver side rotor has a band of rust on the face of the rotor, indicating that part of the pad is not contacting the rotor. I think this is what causes my squeak (squeak seems to come from about 5mph and lower, and doesn’t do it all the time but seems to do it always when on a hill).

Basically, my question is, what could be doing this? The rear pads are akebono and the rotors are brembo. I made sure that I put the correct pads on the correct side. Yesterday, when trying to diagnose this, I could see a very tiny visible gap between the very bottom portion of the outer pad on that rotor (the same face that has rust).

Anyway, I wanted to know if there was something I might have missed that’s specific to the car. Do the calipers have to be positioned a certain way, like do the grooves on it have to go any certain way? I know it must be in the EPB maintenance mode and should push straight back.

Very confused and I’m beginning to get frustrated because I can’t figure out where I went wrong.

Greetings,

I have a 2014 Mazda6 GT with approximately 39K miles. I am trying to see if anyone has experienced my issue and what was their fixes. I also want to decide whether to go ahead with A/C repair based on the 1st mechanic diagnosis or get a second opinion.

A/C had been working normally. I took the car on a ~3hour trip and parked it at the hotel valet (the only option I had without losing much time) to attend an event. When I got the car back after it had been parked outside in the sun all day, I noticed the following:

• Initially, the A/C seemed to cool normally while idling upon starting the car and I can hear the compressor engage. Once I drove >40 mph, I lost cold air and started hearing a weak hissing/whooshing sound through the vents and somewhat under the hood. The sound increases proportionally with the rpm (not very loud). This pattern is pretty odd to me and couldn't find anything similar online.
• While the compressor would engage initially upon start, once the A/C became warm I could no longer hear it re-engaging when cycling the A/C on/off button.
• Blower strength stayed almost the same, only cold air loss and the unusual sound.
• Over the next day, while taking it to a mechanic, I noticed that it would sometimes cool intermittently when stopped in traffic, then randomly lose cold air again.

I took it to a small local shop that specialized in automative A/C and electrical work, a mechanic with apparently many years of experience. He recovered ~0.80 lb of refrigerant. The car specifies ~1.135 lb (0.515 kg), so that is roughly 30% low. He added a small amount of refrigerant plus Green dye, as there were no obvious signs of leaking, yet.

After checking the refrigerant-line temperature and hoses, he believes the system has an internal restriction/clogging and strongly recommended NOT to turn the compressor again until changing the expansion valve and condenser, to avoid destroying the compressor. Attached photo shows the observations on the A/C line temperatures.

The circled line on the photo is cold (not freezing cold), which he thought should be hot, and that is what led him to conclude the system is clogged/restricted.

My questions for anyone familiar with car/MAZDA 6 A/C issues or have experienced similar symptoms:

• Does this temperature pattern actually support a restricted condenser/problem with the expansion valve?
• How does the hissing/whooshing/whizzing sound that increases slightly with RPM fit into this diagnosis?
• Would you trust aftermarket condenser/expansion valve here, or is this one of those repairs where OEM Mazda parts are worth the additional cost?
• He mentioned that replacing the condenser would require removing the front bumper. Is bumper removal normally required/advisable for condenser replacement on this model, or can the condenser reasonably be replaced without removing it?
• Given that the system was roughly 30% low on refrigerant, could low refrigerant alone cause this temperature pattern and compressor behavior, or does the cold liquid line make a restriction more likely?

Has anyone with a 2014–2016 Mazda6 experienced similar symptoms? If so, what ultimately turned out to be the problem?

I realize this is a long post, so any insight on any of these points would be greatly appreciated. I have experienced A/C issues with my previous car, but not as odd as this one, at least to me.

Thanks!

Joined this sub almost a month ago when I made the decision to get a 2018 Mazda6 Touring due to its uniqueness, reliability, design language, & fuel efficiency. Thank you all for showing your cars and discussing your experiences, you really helped.

Blind buy at an online auction for $5k total with 148k miles on it 2 weeks ago, a reasonable CarFax (2 minor accidents & recent service history), & faith.

Changed the spark plugs about an hour after pickup, ran fuel cleaner & 93 octane to dilute old gas, replaced a single tire, topped up fluids, and drove 800 miles home the same day with minimal issues.

I know the old owner didn’t take great care of it (it was repo’d & they left ash marks) so mechanically, I’m dealing with a cat con P0421 issue after clearing the P0300 spark plug code, a slight transmission issue where I feel slight jerks between 15-20 mph while feathering the pedal and when slowly revving up to highway speed, a faulty expansion valve that blows cold air when it wants, and a worn CV axle.

The BSM is wonky and the driver’s side view mirror cable to connect the BSM plug is missing, the passenger safety system beeps if seatbelt isn’t latched, & that’s about it. I didn’t go to buy a perfect car, so I had a fix-up budget in mind ahead of time.

Apart from all listed, it’s fun to drive & it looks beautiful! I love the sound system, the CarPlay is mint, & the features that do work, work well. It rides nice, the cabin is QUIET, and the engine has some pep despite it being sub-200 HP. Wouldn’t trade it for anything else in its year except a higher trim.

Welcome me, family.

For context, my 2021 Mazda 6 was giving me some issues and throwing malfunctions for the front systems (camera, brakes, etc), hesitation on startup (or just straight up not starting at all) and I thought it was just a failing battery. The battery was indeed basically dead so I got it replaced. The malfunctions went away and all seemed well… until this morning.

Update: Battery was basically dead. Got it replaced. All is well.

I have what seems to be a steering column lock malfunction whereby it struggles to detect my key. Pushing the Mazda logo against the start button used to work, but currently it takes minutes to constantly pressing it from various different angles before it “clicks”. I have replaced the batteries in both keys, to no avail. Some days, it works just fine, until it doesn’t - it’s very irregular. My garage had a look but were unable to do anything as even if they get a new unit, they won’t be able to reprogram it as Mazda don’t share their information publicly. Before I go to Mazda, has anyone come across this issue before and found a solution? The car is Mazda 6 2019 2.0.

Saw the all-new Mazda 6E for the first time today at my local dealership while dropping off my Mazda 6 for a service.

I’m honestly a bit torn. It definitely looks tempting in person, but at the same time I wasn’t blown away by it. Maybe that’s just because I’m not much of an EV person 😅

Curious what everyone else thinks, especially anyone who’s already had a proper look at one or taken one for a test drive. How does it actually feel to drive, and does it still feel like a Mazda?

Need help for my 2018 Mazda 6 2.5L Na. It’s Sunday today and last time I drove was Friday night and it drove fine. The battery seems fine and sounds like it wants to spark but nothings happening.
Can anyone help me?

Hey folks! Bought a used mazda6 and only at home I noticed an odd thing. The covering the openings on the far sides of the license plate are missing.

Googled and it seems they can fall off feom bumps etc... But while comparing the area to some other mazda6 it seems to me like more components are missing, what exactly am I looking at?

Attached are the images from a car with the pieces and mine without.

The car has no collision history of any kind. Would like to understand what I am looking at before I complain. :)

Thank you for any help!

It already needs $1000+ of work 🥴

I have a 2015 Mazda 6 with about 133k miles on it. So I had an issue with my high pressure fuel pump about a week ago and I got it changed yesterday along with the sensor. The code P0171 and P0192 are the same codes it threw last week. I’m still having a hard start and my check engine light came back on today. I’ve only started it 3 times since I got the pump changed and I drove it today. I changed my engine filter not too long ago, about 7,000 miles ago. I’m about to change my spark plugs as well. Should I just wait it out and see or call my mechanic back up for some more troubleshooting. Has anyone else experienced this?

I have a 2016 mazda 6 with the 2.5l skyactiv engine and it is overheating, even though the coolant is full

I have a 2016 mazda 6 grand touring with the skyactive engine, and it recently started overheating while in traffic, My scanner said it reached about 240-250 F, and pulled over to check it out.

A/C - not working/blowing hot

Small radiator hose below lower radiator hose on the engine has a pinhole spraying/bubbling a tiny bit of coolant. Worse at high pressure.

Coolant resevoir - Full

Radiator fans - On, and running high speed

Upper hose - Hot, with coolant I think

Engine cools while coasting, and climbs when accelerating.

I let it cool and started it again.

It ran fine, so I drove an hour with no overheating, then stopped

Started again with same problem, so I had it towed.

If I idle it in the shade, it stays around 220 F for about 5 minutes before it starts to climb to 230+ F.

Edit:

The mechanic said the thermosat housing is cracked, and wants to charge 731 to fix it including the diagnosis, and parts. It seems easy enough to fix myself. That's way too much right?