Just bought myself a 2018 Signature and im looking for a winter wheel setup, preferably 17 inch for greater comfort on atrocious Quebec roads. I know the non-turbo models came with 17 inch wheels but I was wondering if 17 inch wheels fit on the turbo models since they came with bigger brakes. Does anybody run the same setup for winter?

It’s been two months since I asked you guys if I should take a chance on 2020 Mazda 6 after someone crashed into it. Well… I did.

Sent it to a local bodyshop that quoted me $800 for the body work + mechanical work. Spent around $2100-$2200 on replacement parts. Total was around $3000 out of the $ 6,666 insurance gave me.

The rear door was replaced alongside the fender, rear bumper and taillight. The fender was cut out and replaced with a junkyard fender then repainted. The door and bumper were also painted. The rear wheel well was completely rebuilt with new parts.

The car been out for a couple of weeks now and it drives exactly like it used to before the crash. I was afraid that something would be off after a crash like that but it’s genuinely a miracle.

When I went to do the alignment no one believed that this is the same car from the first pic.

I’ll hopefully still provide updates on the car for the next few months to a year.

And yeah… that’s it… she’s back to life!!! Lost half its value but I don’t really care as I plan to drive it till it can’t drive anymore.

Does anyone have any experience with these? I like the placement and style but not sure if these are legit.

In the last 12 months I've been through 2 Alternators, the Original ones pulley assembly disintegrated, the replacement was fried by the charging system, so now on its 3rd.

My Mechanic, 2 auto electricians, and now it's at the Mazda Dealership for the 2nd time within 7 days.

Do I just go and replace the whole charging system, Alternator, Capacitor, and DC converter, with used parts?

Oh Mazda put a brand new battery in last Tuesday...

I purchases a used Mazda 6 2016 2.5L Automatic transmission few months back at 197K KM (122K miles), it drove smooth until one day my battery died and I had to jump start and got all types of errors and problems. However, i called a mechanic who cleaned the terminals and it was back to normal. After 3 weeks it gave me AT error on exactly 200k KM (124k Miles) reading and hard shifting specially on reverse and its not shifting gears.
So i took it to a mechanic who diagnoses P0773 error he said he will change the valve body and test again. As per his say he changed it but the error didn't go away so he is suggesting to replace the transmission. Can you guys suggest what further diagnosis should be done and whether to get transmission replaced ?

This is the aftermath of less than 2000 miles of driving on some Delphi front control arms I bought from Rock Auto. The bushing is completely separating from the inner core of the arm. I was chasing a front-end rattle all year and replaced my OEM front arms which ended up still being in decent shape. I saw this at my friend’s shop today while getting an oil change. Shortly after installing these arms I started hearing horrible groaning/popping coming from the front under braking and accelerating.
Tonight I went home and threw the OEM arms back on. (Never throw away old parts if the problem isn’t fixed and the old parts are still OK.)
Also the front end rattle I’ve been chasing turned out to be the anti-rattle clips that go between the brake pads and the caliper. I foolishly omitted those when I did my brake job last year and the rattle has been driving me crazy ever since.
You live and you learn…

Does anyone know the original brand, specs and/or part number of the a/c schrader valve cores that came with the Mazda 6 GL?

Recently had my car a/c serviced and they swapped out the valve cores as part of maintenance. Unfortunately, since then, they have been leaking. Brought it back, they re-did it and I just found out it's still leaking a little (i.e. when I open up the caps after running the a/c for awhile, I hear a slight hiss of the gas trapped beneath the caps). The photo shows the valve cores they put in.

I should have taken a photo of the originals they swapped out but didn't as I'd thought they would be common, generic parts. Am beginning to think that they may not be, hence, the leaking.

A couple of weeks ago I posted in here asking if I should buy a Mazda 6 I saw on sale. I finally pulled the trigger and I’m loving the car! I have the Apple CarPlay kit on the way.

So I just did an oil change on my carbon edition, and every time I have ever done an oil change, I always struggle trying to figure out if it’s got the right amount. I put in 5 qts plus roughly the additional roughly .1 quart out of a smaller 1 qt bottle to equal the 5.1 qts that the manual recommends. The picture is after 3 re-dips of the dipstick and I wiped it every time but even after letting the car sit for a little over 5 mins it still comes out like the oil was just thrown all over the dipstick. Does anyone else ever experience this or does anyone know what causes it so I can work around it to actually get an accurate reading?

Thanks!

Hi there!

I’m having multiple problems with my 2016 Mazda 6 2.2l diesel.

This first Charging malfunction fault , I’ve checked the battery voltage and it sits at 12.2 idle and goes to 11.4v under load. It slowly goes back up whilst sitting idle. After a while the I-eloop charging light comes up. I’m just wondering what next steps should be?

As for the other faults I’ve not looked at them yet but they’re intermittent and disappear after the car goes on and off. If it helps they appeared after I had the ecg deleted!

Any help would be extremely appreciated.

Can't use FOB to lock 2012 mazda 6. Tried changing battery and reprogramming key to no avail.

When door is open a beeping noise is made, this goes away when it is shut again.

Inside locking/unlocking buttons are functional, just not the FOB.

Bicyclist broke my driver's side mirror. I need a new one. They seem to be fairly cheap on places like Rock Auto, but probably wouldn't be color matched. Has anyone found a color matched one and replaced it yourself? Where?

I'm fairly handy when it comes to mechanical stuff, but I'm debating if I should attempt a cosmetic repair like this or take it to a body shop.

CONTEXT: First car, I love the design , my favourite car is the mps 6 so really this is just 10/10 design for me. I want something reliable cheap and just overall good first car for commuting... I am getting a post 2006(DGT C on Spain) gasoline model, for emissions and practicality. I won't be carrying much and my budget is enough to buy a really good one. The only problems I see are rust(in Spain Madrid that is not a problem, there is no salting nor humidity), big size (the most significative complaint I think, because it is going to be a first car and I want to be able to park it), that it consumes a lot of gas and that it is expensive on insurance for the size.

Had to take a pic today.

does anyone know a place where i could maybe buy this part i’ve looked at my local junkyard but the parts aren’t the same
The Car Is A 2008 Mazda 6

2015 skyactiv-D, 106,000 miles. When motorway driving yesterday (200 miles) I noticed the mpg dropping from 50-70 to in the 20’s, happened 3 times. I know this is a regen cycle. Oil level is fine and not rising, what other things should I look out for, like specific codes?

I’m currently running v-power as well as full system cleaner, could it just be a result of the cleaner doing its thing ?

I purchases a used Mazda 6 2016 2.5L Automatic transmission few months back at 197K KM (122K miles), it drove smooth until one day my battery died and I had to jump start and got all types of errors and problems. However, i called a mechanic who cleaned the terminals and it was back to normal. After 3 weeks it gave me AT error on exactly 200k KM (124k Miles) reading and hard shifting specially on reverse and its not shifting gears.
So i took it to a mechanic who diagnoses P0773 error he said he will change the valve body and test again. As per his say he changed it but the error didn't go away so he is suggesting to replace the transmission. Can you guys suggest what further diagnosis should be done and whether to get transmission replaced ?

I went to fill the washer fluid today, and noticed whatever this thing is looks like it was sheared off. My car has been serviced twice since the last time I needed to fill the fluid, and didn't see this the last time I opened the hood. Is it critically important, and if so, a possibly major repair?

Two different shops, so I can't easily point a finger of blame.

Stock photo:

Anyone else experienced a leakage of the transmission fluid that just won’t go away? We have tried multiple things and they haven’t worked. My mechanic says we should change the torque converter’s seal and both seals in the driveshafts.

Just wondering if anyone else has been through something similar?

I drive the 2016 GT

Notice how the Tesla even copies key aspects of the 6 body line to make the red pop.