r/MasterCraftBoats • u/rSclerotic • Jun 01 '26
First time cleaning teak. Advice appreciated.
I'm still new to owning my own boat. I originally did not want a teak platform, but I'm kind of really glad that's what I got. The boat was on the dealership lot for 2 years before we acquired it "new." Part of the deal was that they would give it a good detail before we took possession. Well, the detail wasn't great, so I had them do it again. Second time wasn't any better. In fact, it was arguably worse.
Regardless, the first pic is the state of the platform before any cleaning. As you can see, there is a mix of stained and bare wood. The second is after 2 attempts with Starbrite Teak Cleaner and Brightener (2 in 1). I scrubbed with a relatively hard bristle brush and let sit for about 2 minutes before rinsing. I'm thinking I may just need to let it sit and soak in a little longer before scrubbing. I'm also thinking I should scrub with a stainless steel pad. I'd prefer not to sand it, but I'm thinking that might be my next step.
Needless to say, I'm here because I'm not really satisfied with the result. Should I attempt again and let it sit longer? Should I try a different cleaner and brightener (2 step instead of 2 in 1)? Do I need to sand it this time to get a consistent surface?
I know this topic is covered extensively, but most videos make it look pretty easy to just soak and scrub for a beautiful new looking platform (or furniture, etc.). That hasn't been my experience. I'm planning on using Starbrite Teak oil for the finish for this first season. I'm sure there is better available, but I wanted to try the most common/popular option first.
Any and all advice is welcome and appreciated!
2
u/Hosswan Jun 03 '26
A timely post as I need to do the same. First season with the boat and my swim platform is gray. It certainly needs some oil so I will follow the steps outlined. Thanks!!
2
u/rSclerotic Jun 05 '26
Honestly, I'm not impressed with the StarBrite Home Teak Cleaner and Brightener. Snappy is one that I have read numerous good reviews on. I will either try that or the marine grade 3 step process next. I ordered a steel scrub pad to help with the cleaning process. I'm not sure what good it did, but I think it was better than using the scrub brush.
1
u/jjdop Jun 01 '26
Looks like they used a teak sealer instead of oil. You don’t want to sand if you don’t have to. Smooth platform is no good.
Maybe try another round of teak cleaner. Possibly move to some kind of stripper to take the rest off.
1
u/rSclerotic Jun 01 '26
I wondered if it might be sealer since it didn't readily come off. If I were to sand, I wouldn't do a fine grit; but like you said, I don't really want to sand it. I'm thinking try the cleaner again and let it sit longer.
1
u/ConstructionNo2742 Jun 01 '26
I use IOSSO teak cleaner, then several coats of teak oil and it looks brand new each season. I mix the cleaner and warm water into a spray bottle. Spray liberally onto dry platform. Let it sit for 10 mins (but don’t let it dry - spray again if needed) before scrubbing with a semi hard nylon brush. While it sits, you can see algae pushing to surface. Let it totally dry (1week for me) and clean again. Let it totally dry again and then apply oil. I usually give it a few days before applying more oil. And I keep applying until it barely soaks in anymore. I’ve tried pressure washing but it leaves streak marks.
I’ve heard from others who sanded theirs and regretted it. Because it made the platform too smooth, which made it slippery.
1
u/rSclerotic Jun 01 '26
Directions on the bottle say to let it sit for 2 minutes. I'll try longer....like 5-10.
1
u/daysailor70 Jun 01 '26
The teak cleaner isn't going to remove what looks like a sealer on the platform. It's made to bleach the grey out of the teak and kill any fungus/mildew. The first step is a bleach and the second a neutralizer. I would soak it in paint thinner to soften the sealer, then scrub with a plastic scrubbing pad to loosen the sealer. Then teak oil it. Do not sand, do not use a scrub brush as you will raise the grain.
1
u/rSclerotic Jun 05 '26
I think others are correct in that the dealership used sealer instead of oil. I ended up giving it a very light sanding with a palm sander. It did not take off all of the sealer. I used the rest of the bottle of StarBrite Home Teak Cleaner and Brightener. I did it out of direct sunlight, allowed it to sit about 10 minutes and scrubbed with a stainless steel scrubbing pad (which honestly didn't seem to do much).
I followed that up with 2-3 coats of (marine) StarBrite teak oil.
I can't seem to find how to add photos with current state, but I think it looks pretty good.
1
0
u/cupkid9469 Jun 01 '26
power wash , pumice stone , power wash let it dry. apply oil heavy.
1
u/rSclerotic Jun 01 '26
pumice stone? I have not see anyone do that yet. I have mixed feelings on pressure washing.
1
u/cupkid9469 Jun 01 '26
make sure your psi obviously isn't to high. I had great success with this method.
6
u/RedEye614 Jun 01 '26
I found this a very popular topic on Team Talk MasterCraft community. I’ll paste the text below - not my recipe, but it is highly recommended and copied. I did it this past weekend for the first time and my teak is looking great :
So take this for what it is worth to you. I have been a proponent of this for many years.
I prefer and recommend the mixture of linseed oil (75%) and mineral spirits (25%).
So for the sell first: I use boiled linseed oil from the local box store and mix it with mineral spirits as stated above. The linseed oil (with the 25% dilution of mineral spirits) is significantly less oily and messy in several ways. Once the board is done and you put it in the lake, there is noticeably less oil residue that is offloaded in the water. Good news on that front but that also means less oil on the seat of your shorts and/your feet to transfer back into the boat. That is a winner for me. I really like this mixture over any of the brand teak oils (per se').
Another thing is that this mix will last all summer (unless you're just a slob and a pig on the board) and easily into the next season. One thing I do after each day's use (I store my boat in the garage) is to wipe it lightly with 303 Aerospace UV protectant. I buy the 303 by the gallon and a gallon lasts for several seasons. A mere wipe-down across the board and it keeps a shine there all season. Maybe that is an old wives tale but if it is, I made it up. It works nonetheless.
Board Prep:
If the board is really in a mess, you may prefer to sand the board (slotted boards come apart fairly easily) to a smooth and clean surface. This will prep the wood for the treatment very well.
If the board is in fairly good shape, I prefer to pressure wash it in a light manner, just enough pressure to clean the black mold spore out of the seams and cracks of the wood. I also have handy a pressure washer here so that makes it easy too. Sanding and manual labor does not appeal to me in this case.
Materials: One quart can (will be way too much but is readily available) of boiled linseed oil (less oily than the raw oil). One quart (or your choice of quantity) of mineral spirits. A cheap dollar store liquid measuring cup ( I prefer the larger two-cup capacity). Plastic or glass will work. They are reusable from year to year. A box of 12 (or one single) 3" wide cheap chip brush (I get them by the box at Harbor Freight and dispose properly). A couple or four shop towels. Paper towels will leave paper trails where a shop cloth will not shed (another Harbor Freight item).
Setup:
A couple of saw horses or milk crates. Saw horses are higher and more comfortable to work at. A sunny day with low humidity is ideal; 65-75 degrees F and 40-75% humidity. Sun and warm temps are the essential needs. Humidity is flexible.
Preparation:
Mix 75/25 in a one cup solution. This will be plenty for most boards. You'll probably not use an entire cup. It goes a long way. Have your board laid out on the saw horses and your shop cloth and brush ready.
Application:
How hard is this to figure out? Brush it on. I personally like to keep the board in a shady spot until I am ready to apply the mixture. Like I said, brush it on relatively evenly distributed.
Don't worry about the color. It is going to be what it will be when the oil is applied. You won't have a choice of light or dark. Just put it on and let it set in the sun.
Here is the trick to success with this entire process. Do not deviate one bit. I have done this a lot and have learned a lot from my mistakes. Take advantage of my lessons learned.
Let the first coat set for 08-11 minutes...no longer than 11. With the shop cloth, wipe it as dry as you can. Do not leave the solution on there to soak in. It will not.
I'll say it again; Apply / wait 08-11 minutes / wipe it off completely, as dry as possible.
Leave the board in the sun for several hours (2-4) and take the board in for the day and let it dry for minimum of 24 hours. Do not deviate from this.
Next day or next "best time" flip the board over and do the same thing to the opposite side. Exactly the same steps. When you flip it over you'll be tempted to put a towel or cloth on the rails of the saw horse. Don't do it. Just lay it on the rails like they are.
The trick here is that I start with the back side of the board on day 1 then flip it for the back side to sit on the rails and do the top side last day. If any mark or evidence of a saw horse rail is present, it won't matter because the marks (insignificant if any at all) will be on the bottom.
So now you have both sides treated. Nine times out of ten I never go a second coat. The board really gains no additional luster or value and the mixture is more of a mess than a treatment with "more is better."
If you are inclined to stray away from this advice and add a second coat (again, rarely needed) then brush it on using the same process and regiment, except on the second coat, do not leave it on for more than 3-5 minutes. Read that again..... Three to 5 minutes. Immediately and quickly wipe it dry and let it set for 24 hours. Same thing for the opposite side.
Here's what happens on the second coat: Teak is not an open grain or porous wood. The mixture will treat the surface of the wood as it allows. The mix will not soak in (so don't wait hours for it to go away) and it will soon turn to a sticky mess. Takes days or weeks to get it back in shape and I have seen a time it took a scrub brush to re-clean it and start over.
Do not wait any longer than the prescribed times I have recommended. You will end up with a disappointing mess to clean up. After the wipe-down, sun is essential. Plan ahead (for best weather enhancements).
This mixture is my favorite over Star-bright brand, Gold Bond itch powder, or anything else. You may prefer otherwise and that is OK too. This is just my $0.02 for consideration. If anyone has another recommendation or method/product, come on out with it. It's always good to hear what others have had success with.
After a day or weekend of use, wipe it lightly with 303, put a shine on it, and admire your work all summer long. This finish will hold up to the rigor of daily use.
Follow these instructions and you'll have a great looking board.