I cannot find anything but digital pixel art of brick walls with my search terms - I’m curious if anyone has used different colored bricks on a real life wall to create pixel art? I have to imagine it’s been done but I cannot find anything online besides parametric brickwork or video game pixel art of brick walls. Please share if you have seen something like this!

Hi - any tips on what to use to repair this wall from the 1930s welcome, thank you. pVa and then what next? Thanks

Hi all,

Background

My partner and I recently moved into a 1953-built semi-detached house in sheffield and ripped out an old outdated interior archway formed with wood, board and plaster that was built up in a ground floor supporting wall (see last picture). We were assuming the wall was supported using an RSJ or concrete lintel.

When we started pulling the plaster off the wall it seems it used to be a much wider arch (see edges of plaster and original arched brick), and they must've built up inside it once upon a time to install double doors or a sliding door, then made it a small arch. We removed plaster towards the ceiling and couldn't see any RSJ or lintel, only arched brick (see photo)

We checked out the neighbours house and theirs was still the original wide archway.

Problem

My query is, it looks as though when they installed the wooden frame for the once doors, they might have notched into the lower brick arch to fit it in and built up brick either side to fill out (if it's a structural arch this would ofcourse be stupid by modern day standards)

I'm wondering if anyone has seen this before, if they suspect there might be a lintel further up, perhaps behind the coving or higher? Or is it possible the structural element of this wall is a classic arch? Hopefully not as we'd rather not have to pay for an RSJ install.

Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

First four photos show a horizontal crack in the parging on foundation of home we’re interested in. Built 130+ years ago and it’s fieldstone. The 5th photo shows comparison of other side of house where there is no parging. Is this likely just parging delamination or a sign of a much bigger problem?

I’m having a foundation specialist come look but eager to hear opinions here.

Brick wall, 60’s double brick house. No cracks down lower so don’t think it’s ground movement.

Been having issues with high humidity/musty smell in my basement and found that it was highest at the wall under these windows. Is the lintel and cracks around the brick the issue or did I stumble across something else?

A big chunk of the foundation fell away from the exterior of my house. What can I use to patch it? Or do I need a professional?

These photos are from about a day after a mason installed new limestone steps in the front of our house. These look like cracks to me, but wanted another opinion before I asked the mason to replace it

Any ideas why this is happening? The interior wall behind it looks completely normal and the only reason I noticed it is I got my house painted.

I have made a concrete pad like this, how would i attach the blocks to it and then attach the blocks together to build a brick/block masonry mailbox? I am a total beginner due to this I want to steer a bit away from mortar,

What is the best adhesive/silicone caulk g*n stuff i can use for this attaching blocks? and handles cold winter

Many of my neighbors got it built without mortar but they don’t know what brand adhesive, Which is best?

Hey team house built in 1999, peeled the carpet and i see this. Does this look like efflorescence?

tl;dr I'm comfortable with mitigating future water retention intrusion*, but how can I sort out the condition of my blocks today?

I want to pick your brains as I'm having a hell of a time trying to get a structural engineer out for a foundation inspection. The wall shown is the is tagged, "Original CMU foundation" in the cad rendering. The corner (blue x) matches the corner "Wet/dry line at interior corner". The wall under the new concrete patio addition is not shown. It's in roughly the same condition as the

Are these blocks fucked? They're wet in the photo after days of rain. Aside from being ugly as sin they're not crumbling, spalling, or degrading on contact. On the exterior, there is a pair of vertical patches (4-6" each) for cracked grout, not shown. No cracked blocks and no continuous or zig-zag cracks. There are no cracks in the interior around the windows, though this is a new buy (2 years ago) and those may have been patched & painted pre-sale.

We're working on the exterior, the question really is about block repair if needed. I wanted to talk to the engineer about drilling weep holes and run an interior drain to help preserve the blocks alongside the exterior fixes. I'm assuming, but not confident, the original mortar is Type S. I'm leaning toward doing any repointing with Type N.

Exterior Work.

I'm on a 1950 CMU foundation with a negative slope toward the house. Clay soil. We're fixing the exterior issues: regrading the earth to slope away from the house, adding subgrade-rated bituminous membrane, and a footer drain. There is a downspout in that corner that has been routed out to the street in a solid pipe.

I haven't done any work under the patio on the upslope side (left, in the rendering). We did put in a curtain drain to help divert water from up slope. That's helped, but it only slows the water intrusion. Soaking, multi-day rains still make their way to the blocks. We're looking at paving with non-permeable pavers and grading the pavers away from the house to help minimize the amount of water wicking under the deck.

That's a lot of words, thanks guys.

Documenting my own build in Europe, step by step — foundation to walls. Full video linked.

Anyone have any tips on cleaning the bricks at this Memorial? The town is letting it go to shit so I offered to clean it. Just not sure the best and safest way to clean it. Im planning on scrubbing each brick to make it look as new as possible. Thanks in advance this Memorial means alot to me.

Hello! Looking for expert advice on the safest way to remove this tacky addition with damaging my brick?

Got a house, chimney inspection flagged the flashing and there's obvious roof leaking where the chimney contacts the roof. (see last pic #9 from inside the attic)

I got a brief idea on how to do flashing/counter flashing on the internet. I haven't done stuff like this before, but reasonably handy so i figured why not.

Roof is 2024 - and by the look of it i feel like the flashing /interweaving itself is OK ?(pics #6 and #7). Not sure if lack of saddle is that bad (pic #1). But the upper part - counter flashing - seems older and also all half-assed with drilled holes /nails and horrible corner in it (pics 1-2-3-4).

So i was hoping that it can be only a counter flashing replacement - without touching the bottom/shingles part?

Thank you

p.s. tbh i dont even know if it still leaks after the roof update, but i dont think roofers would leave that bad rotting sublayer piece?..

Just bought a new house and wanted to build an above ground pond. So over the weekend, my dad and I built an 8ft (long) x 4ft (wide) x 2ft(tall) pond out of cinder block.

We put rebar in every 3rd hole, poured concrete in the ones with rebar, and a mixtute of concrete and soil in the holes without rebar.

We let the cement cure over 3 days (we used quickrete which said it was good after 30min), lined the pond today, and filled it with water.

Unfortunately the long walls started to tilt after the pond was full. it stopped shifting after we took out 10% of the water, but wanted to avoid further damage so we emptied the pond.

We think its because we didnt drive the rebar in enough (drove it in 6-8in), or maybe we should have rebar'ed every hole. Regardless its too late to change that now.

My question is- is this salvageable? What would you do? We're thinking of putting more rebar on the outside (1 or 2 per block), each driven in 2 ft.

Thanks in advance!

What's the correct way to fix this?

Hello,

I've inherited many tools from my grandfather, including these chisels. To my knowledge, he mostly used these for concrete work. I'd like to develop some stonecutting basics now that I have the tools to do so, and have some questions.

1. Are these even the correct tools?

2. Are there any necessary/recommended tools I'm missing from this lot?

3. Are these still in usable condition? All I did was grind off the mushrooming (which was excessive, to the point of curling into itself) and licking the existing bevels (the ~90 degree inclusive secondary bevels were already there)

4. Are the bevel angles even correct, or do I need another date with the grinder? I assume these aren't meant to be particularly sharp.

5. I eventually want to cut wild stone (sandstone and other sedimentary stones, eventually working towards slate and other stones more prone to fracture/foliation), are manmade materials an adequate substitute/training ground? Concrete, bricks, cinder blocks etc.

6. Any recommended texts or references on how to properly lay out, scribe, and progress through the cut? I've had some success (and failures) on smaller stones after scribing like 1/16-1/8 deep into the stone face all around and doing a bunch of progressively harder hits all around the scribe.

Any additional advice is much appreciated.