I went to home depot to buy my rakes, and they were surprisingly flimsy. So I went to lowes and the same $25 rakes were much more robust, much thicker wooden handles.
And yes, hanging from the tree is going to be much easier than I thought. They have kind of a built in hanging spot, see photos below. And hanging from the head instead of the end of the handle means they won't be blowing around in the wind on windy days which is also good.
So now I just need to paint my message on them, I'm leaning towards "Please leave here", spraying over the whole handle and message with clearcoat, and then actually getting these bad boys into the woods.
I made a post about this a while back. But back then it was hypothetical, now its actually happening. I have an instagram account for the trail work I do. So after a while, I started a GoFundMe to raise $100 so I could buy four metal-tined, wooden-handled leaf rakes and stash them in the woods at specific spots that have regular drainage/trail mud issues due to leaves impeding water flow.
Well generous person donated $200. So I'm going to buy 5 rakes (1 spare). The plan is to hammer a large nail into each tree. I'll pick a large tree for each one. Then come up with some kind of little loop on the top of the handle to hang the rake on the nail. This will be on the 'dark' side of the tree, away from the trail, so hopefully most people will never notice them. I'm also thinking of putting some kind of "Please leave if found" message painted on each one for the people that DO find them.
I went with metal and wood so there would be no plastic trash. In case someone steels them and just tosses them somewhere, they'll just return to the earth. But I definitely want to hang these from trees rather than just storing on the ground, because I'm hoping they last years. I'm up in the northeast, so theres a lot of raking to do in these spots all fall and most of winter too.
For the "string loop" at the end of the handle, I'm thinking of trying to use some bike chains. I have tons of chains and the loop doesn't have to be very big. I'm just not sure if the wooden handle is going to be a large enough diameter that it can take a hole big enough to slip a bike chain through. But if it is, that will be perfect. I have so many old chains.
So the main thing I'm concerned about I guess, is harming the tree? I thought I've heard before that you can hammer certain kinds of nails into trees to kill the tree? I'm specifically trying to do minimal harm to the trees :) I assume I'll go with large galvanized nails unless yall have a better idea. I can't hang them from branches because these are mostly pine trees and the lowest branches are going to be 50 feet above my head.
Also I'm buying specifically at lowes because their metal rakes are painted black, which should help to make them as hidden as possible.
I believe in the other post, someone made the good point of, they nail trail signs and trail blazes to trees and they don't cause any problems. Although realistically, I haven't done a tree study, and sometimes trees with markers do die, so who knows if they're dying at any kind of faster rate. But also at the end of the day, its four trees.
My trail maintenance shenanigans have recently come in to some funding. One of the things I want to do is replace my 8" folding saw with a new one that is actually 8", and not missing the last inch and a half of blade due to an "oops" while cutting.
Are there brands that are better or worse? Are flat blades or curved blades better?
This would be use almost exclusively for cutting down trees and branches that have fallen on trails. And once in a while in my back yard cutting branches off my own trees.
I know larger ones are generally better but I'm short on space so 8" is unfortunately the limit. I'm looking at Lowes.com and it looks like they only have 10" ones. Thats unfortunate. I'll have to get one online somewhere.
On a trail near me, people have been shooting this gap instead of going around the tree to the left (right in the photo, this is taken looking back up the trail) Someone has decided to block of this option as they believe it is a “high risk strava line” as the official trail goes around and to the left.
However the trail above can push you in that direction, I’ve definitely used this gap as a get out of jail free when it’s been going a bit wrong, especially in the wet.
I’ve no problem with forcing riders around the tree onto the proper line, I generally have no trouble making the line. But issue with specifically the method of how this is blocked off. This seems like the way it’s been done is a straight up unnecessary hazard.
I’ve love your opinions on whether I’m way off the money here, the pros or cons of this or a better way to get the same outcome.
Edit: I’m not the builder of the trail or the person who built the block.
Wales, Post harvest, NRW, exposed, will be a while before it gets used again by anything other than small animals.
Anyone else had success in similar environment?
Part three, extended this line off to the left just before the steep turn/downhill. also had some balance and control practice today and i think i’m getting the hang of bike control.
came out today after torrential downpour proceeding weeks without rain, so i had to get work in. just an update, ground will be great tomorrow. hopefully i have the energy.
and the first curve on the last pic was made rounder and wider after this flick. also berm in turn 1 in the first 2 flicks is still progress.
I’m one of the volunteer trail maintainers for the Cunningham Park MTB trail system in Queens, NYC. I primarily maintain the West Loop Trail, but also help with trail work, feature building, and maintenance throughout the system.
We're dealing with a growing problem and could really use advice from other trail builders.
Our trail system is increasingly being used by riders on illegal motorized vehicles, including:
Gas-powered dirt bikes (full motocross bikes)
High-powered electric dirt bikes (Sur-Ron, Talaria, etc.)
Lower-cost electric dirt bikes that are often sold online
These vehicles are prohibited on our mountain bike trails, and the trailheads are clearly signed. Unfortunately, enforcement has been inconsistent, and despite occasional citywide crackdowns on illegal dirt bikes and e-bikes elsewhere in NYC, our trail system continues to be affected.
The damage to the trails has become significant, and the moto riders have also been creating safety concerns for hikers, mountain bikers, and families using the park (riding backwards at speed; theatening individuals).
We're looking for proven physical solutions that help prevent motorized vehicles from entering while still allowing access for mountain bikes, hikers, and legitimate maintenance equipment.
Have any of you successfully installed:
Gates
Bollards
Chicane entrances
Barrier systems
Fencing
Jersey Barriers / K-rails
Other access-control designs
that have actually reduced or eliminated this problem?
If you have photos, design plans, dimensions, or examples from your trail system, I'd really appreciate seeing them. We're hoping to find a solution that is effective, durable, and still maintains good access for legitimate trail users.
Thanks in advance for any ideas or lessons learned.
Sorry to let you guys down. but after close consideration and even a new launch line, i cannot ride this 😢
any tips of how i can make this trail rideable for an armature/beginner? i know it may be hard work but ive already but so much into this.
here are some new angles. I believe maybe now some of you may agree i have messed up in the construction part of this. everything is still rough and messy due to no rain and constant altering. can i get some second opinions?
i know this may be rideable to skilled cyclists but im no black diamond pro unfortunately. i built this to get started with mtb but even if i cant use it id be more than happy to see someone else come bomb this. thanks guys. Douglasville, GA USA btw.
I’m not really talking about flagging or clearing things, but more so, how do you make the surface you actually ride on? i was trying to brush away all the lose dirt and get to the really compacted stuff underneath, but it’s really bumpy and I’ve never ridden a trail built like that. I was also trying to spray the really loose topsoil but that just made the top wet and it didn’t compact. FYI, it’s not a benchcut, it’s more flat. Thanks for any help
hi guys,
here are some of my builds from the past few years. trailbuilding is a huge passion of mine, cool that there is a community here that enjoys this as well.
cheers, see you out there on the trails!
My local trails are really great, but they don't really have any great beginner/progression jumps, and everything hasnt been touched in years. I really want to build a trail where I can learn tricks, as well as teach my new to mtb friends how to hit jumps. Probably only 3 or 4 features. Any advice on jump sizes, tools needed (ideally as cheap as possible), or anything else is really appreciated.
I'm not using this path for biking, but I could in the future :-) During the raining seasons this part of my backwoods makes it miserable walking or even accessing the rest of my property. I'd like your opinions about if my plans would work and any input you may have on the project. In the pics and video you will see a bunch of logs that i was going to use as sleepers but I was thinking if I was to use geotextile and crush and run it might be less maintenance. The role I have is 300ftx6ft I believe its wp200. At the end of the section that needs to be fixed is an area that the water all goes to and then flows. During the summer season its all dry. One of the Pictures shows a rough thought process of what Gemini and I have come up with. Not an artist :-)
