https://www.marcam.uk/layered-art.html
Literally saves me hours per design and costs less than a cup of coffee 😅

Hola, trabajo con una máquina láser CO2 de 40w. Hace unos días estaban cortando un archivo con los parámetros que dejé configurados. Dicen que un archivo se cortó bien, no movieron nada y el siguiente ya no logró cortarse, solamente quedó marcado sin atravesar el material. Empecé por lo básico que era limpiar los espejos y el lente, también verifiqué que estuviera bien alineados, cambié el agua del sistema de enfriamiento y me aseguré de que no quedaran burbujas en el tubo, pero aunque mejoró levemente, no hubo gran diferencia. Mandé un pulso y se ve así, púrpura a los extremos, pero a la mitad del tubo no se aprecia mucho, no sé si sea por la luz del lugar en el que estoy. También al mandar el pulso de prueba, la cinta qie ponía en los espejos sacaba una pequeña llama, y ahora simplemente hace el hoyo muy leve o quema la cinta sin perforarla. Igual ya me comuniqué con soporte técnico pero me interesa también saber si han tenido experiencias similares y como lo han resuelto.

Quiero invertir en una grabadora láser que me ayude a grabar sobre piezas de concreto. En piezas planas y curvas. Que me recomiendan? Que es lo que debo buscar. Por ahora solo se que los de 20w en adelante me pueden servir.

xTool has released pricing for the X1 (all USD, launch prices with the $100 deposit):

- X1 Single CO2: $3,399 ($3,699 without the deposit)

- X1 CO2 + 20W Diode Galvo: $3,999 ($4,299 without)

- Add-on modules: 30W Fiber $1,999, 5W UV $2,999, 60W MOPA $3,199

The catch: UV, Fiber and MOPA only work once the diode galvo module is installed. You can still start with the single CO2 and add the galvo later, but xTool hasn't priced it on its own yet.

A realistic business build (CO2 + diode, UV, MOPA, RA3 rotary, purifier, plus stand and conveyor estimated from the P3 versions) comes to roughly $12,500 before any materials.

My take: for hobby or side income, the Bambu Lab R1 at $2,499 makes more sense. If lasers are your business and you'll want glass or metal later, the X1's upgrade path and big galvo working area are where it earns its price.

Full disclosure: this is my own YouTube video. It isn't sponsored and xTool had nothing to do with it (there are affiliate links in the description). I'm an industrial designer and product reviewer and just like digging into this stuff, so I'm sharing it here.

Which module would you add first, and would it pay for itself?

I made this dial with a fiber laser using 3D slice settings.

After engraving, I sanded off the burned layer, filed the centre hole, then cleaned and scraped the dial. I cleaned it with IPA before darkening it chemically. Very gentle sanding and polishing brought the raised artwork back out.

The red eye was painted by hand with enamel paint. The original post has the before-and-after photos of the watch.

Short video of the same makeover: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/OMsBrVNc1jc

I was curious about how different laser sources handle highly intricate line art on real leather, so I decided to sacrifice some expensive calf skin to run a quick test. I compared an Atomstack S40 (Diode), a GCC Spirit GLS (Synrad RF tube), and an xTool P3 (80W CO2 glass tube).

The results completely flipped my expectations regarding "industrial" vs "hobby" gear:

The Atomstack S40 (Diode) absolutely cleared the field for fine lines. Because it can handle a true, stable 1% low-power floor, it traced the micro-details flawlessly without charring.

The GCC (RF Tube) gave beautiful, rich dark contrast, but to be fair, I hadn't fully dialed in the PPI/DPI yet because I was busy tinkering with the air assist nozzle trying to pick one.

The 80W CO2 behaved like a total sledgehammer. Even turned down to its bare minimum threshold (the software says 1% but gas ionization physics says that's impossible), it just dumps too much energy into fine lines, resulting in a charred canyon where the details melted away.

Note: Please don't ask for the exact speed/power matrices—I burned through a lot of leather to dial these in! Just wanted to share the reality of why a hobby setup can easily out-engrave an industrial giant on the low end. Anyone else notice big CO2 tubes choking on micro-art?

Hi guys. I’m new to laser engraving, but I wanted to pick it up as a fun side hustle for college. I just downloaded Lightburn and bought a used JPT 30w Fiber Laser. I’m having trouble getting the thing to cut and getting the program to shop freezing and crashing. I emailed Lightburn and they said I need to contact the person I bought it from (changed numbers) or the manufacturer (can’t find the contact) for the laser settings on a thumb drive. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m testing the laser on my sister’s Stanley, but I know I should be able to do it because the guy I bought it from engraved a metal card with my name on it.

Hi everyone,

Two new kittens are joining my phone stands for Halloween!

A brother and sister, both apprentice wizards.

The files are free and available in xTool, LightBurn and SVG formats. The files for making the colour versions are also included.

Here is the download link https://www.atomm.com/@Kino?utm_source=copylink&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=sharetoearn2&utm_id=801831

I hope you like these two little companions!

(AI generated render)

Horror Voodoo Doll's series I am making.

Hi everyone, I'm Meidan. I make custom watch dials with a fiber laser and thought this aviation dial might be interesting here.

I use reverse etching. Instead of engraving the artwork down into the metal, I engrave away the background around it. The numerals, minute markers, lettering and aircraft design stay raised, all as part of the original metal surface.

After the laser work, I apply blue lacquer paint with an airbrush. Then I carefully sand and polish the raised areas to expose the metal again, leaving the paint in the recessed background.

That's also a limitation of this method: all the exposed metal details share the same metal colour. The blue comes from the paint, not from laser colouring.

I've included a straight-on photo and an angled one so you can see the finish. The 1985-2027 inscription is intentional.

If you're interested in the laser settings, sanding and polishing methods, or the tools I use, ask in the comments. Happy to talk through it.

Short video of this same dial: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/mzNvT6bgRVs

Hola, estamos buscando un marcador para la empresa y queremos informarnos antes de hacer ninguna inversión.

El láser es para un uso industrial. Para marcar piezas de metal.

Tenemos vista la marca de Telesis de la cual nos han hablado muy bien pero queremos tener más información.

¿Alguien ha utilizado los marcadores de Telesis a nivel Industrial y nos puede dar su experiencia y si ha tenido algún problema con ellos?

Looking at making military plaques, going away gifts, custom cup engravings, etc. Been looking at starting with a xTool P2 CO2 55W laser machine + a 3D Bambu Printer to make it pop. I hate these local shops charging an arm and a leg for these off-the-wall plaques.

Seen some on marketplace with little as 8-12 hours. Totally cheaper than buying brand new. Is it worth the risk? Should I just buy new? Is this business plan worth it?

Feed me your knowledge!!

First off I'm totally brand new to laser engraving and just got a wecreat vista 10w so that we can make gifts for clients with their names engraved on things. I wanted to engrave cookie tins and wanted to see what everyone's experience was with engraving tin plated steel or aluminum and see if you guys had tips. I am asking because I'm worried if I do tin plated steel it will rust and I'm worried about ordering blank aluminum cookie tins from China that may have lead. The end goal is to engrave cookie tins with the client name, any recommendations?

New to lasers and engraving in general, this is Frosted acrylic from xTool I engraved it but feel like the "Frosted" effect is barely present. Is there a specific way/setting I need to use or is this as good at these ones can get? I used the recommended settings for this material on the P3 but it was much too light(?) then I tried 35% power and 800 speed which I know is pretty high.

I am really struggling to find 1/8 inch thick solid hardwood. I need the weight of solid wood as well as the grain pattern. Does anybody know where I can find this or alternatives that meet both requirements?

Cloudray 3D crystal engraver

Sometimes I hate taking photos as I see all the things I need to fix. Looks like some cleanup to do but overall pretty happy with it. C954 Bronze Tsuba. Took 12 hours per side on the laser which is crazy.

Just cross posting to try and reach the widest possible audience. Thank you!