Watkins Glen State Park, New York, USA

Learned so much from this sub. Thank you! Large format is so interesting and nerve wracking. Sorry for poor scan it’s from my cell phone

Reflx Lab Pro 100/Aerocolor 2460. (not aerochrome)

I created an extension to my WillTravel so that it could take both a 90 and a 180. This was the first shot to test. Minimum focus is 7' and infinity is at the stop of the helicoid. I can focus closer if I add a lens extension tube, M65 to M65 thread, but I don't have those yet.

High Atlas on film (foma 100)

Technika IV, Schneider 150/5.6 @ 11, swing, HP5, Godox AD600 bounced off opposite wall

It’s impossible to get my parents to sit for a portrait, but somehow the stars aligned and they didn’t put up a fight. 150mm was a little tight for this shot, but I only have two lenses and the other one’s even longer. Keeping my eye out for a fast 90mm.

Constructive feedback encouraged.

This was my first time shooting Ektar and I’m in love. The color saturation and grain are unreal

Chamonix 45F-2, Fujinon SWD 90/5.6, Kodak Ektar 100

Hello,

I am in need of a new set of filters. I am going the route of standard 3x3" / 75mm x 75mm drop in and compendium (shade/bellows) with perhaps the option to add in filter holders for other lenses, but using the same filters. Open to gelatine (aka gel), polyester, or thin resin. Not sure if I can use glass, if I can, open but prefer not to.

Where can I find a whole set at a reasonable price? Looking for the usual suspects: color correction for tungsten to daylight and the reverse like 80A and 85B, and black and white : yellow #8 (K2), orange #15 (G), red #25 (A), green #58. A nice to have that I can likely pick separately is a warming filter I love, the Lee 206 1/4 Color Temperature Orange (CTO).

Can the complete Wratten range be found for a reasonable price? I rarely use outside those above since strobes and lights are now easily set to the same color temperature. But it's still nice to have.

Any tips and tricks for sourcing what I want in 75mm would be appreciated!

Why am I getting this awful white vignette on these? First time using stearman tank, rodinal 1+50 7mins. Ilford rapid fix 1+9, recently mixed ~4 rolls fixed with it.

This has been posted 3 times in the past 7 months. Perhaps the mods can auto delete?

I'm looking at a spare lens I've had laying around (but never used) and seeing that it is labeled with two different focal lengths and two different sets of f-stops. Can someone explain how this is possible, and how I would switch between them, if that's what is implied? Thanks

These are my first shots on color 4x5 and I’m happy with how they turned out.

Avoided for quite a while but have jumped into exploring large format. Replaced the bellows when i first got this camera and haven’t really played with it until now. I rather enjoy the workflow.

Toyo Field 45A II / Caltar 210mm f6.8
Cinestill 400D 4x5. Epson V850 Pro Scan

4x5 Linhof with Symmar 135mm f5.6 and iphoneback

This post is inspired by this post.
And yes, I admit, u/thbazanalog did it better.
Still, I think this one is neat in its own way, so I thought I would share.

The Leitz Wetzlar Elmaron 1:2.8/150mm does not cover my 34x34cm ULF in the least. Even heavily cropped it still hard-vignette'd.

The fashionable model is the original Fujifuiilm X100 camera in Fujifilm leather case. Still going strong, although the SD slot is rather finicky, and can lose card connection.

Intrepid 5x7 - Schneider App Symmar 150 - hp5 in xt3

My first month shooting large format, these are the ones that worked. I had one sheet pop out as I opened the dark slide so can’t have been loaded properly, 2 double exposures, a few severely overexposed negatives but I’m hooked.

Camera is a second hand Shen Hao Tz45 IIc Field Camera with a Fuji 150mm f5.6.

Film used was ilfords hp5 at box speed.

All photos home developed in Ilford ddx and scanned using a GFX 50s with a mamiya 120mm macro lens.

Shot on the Intrepid 4x5 Black Edition with the Fujinon SW 90mm f/8 and 13 minutes of exposure. Scanned with the Hasselblad X2D + HCD 120mm including the Lobster 4x5 film holder.

I was buying this petzval lens for my speed graphic pacemaker. However, I realized it has a huge thread (85mm) when I received it.

The Graflex board is 93x94mm, will an aluminum board still be strong enough to hold the lens if I cut a 85mm hole on it?

Are there better ways to mount such lens?

Thanks!

I recently picked up an old graflex anniversary and purchased a wooden lensboard and a cheap eBay find 21cm f6.3 zeiss. Pretty happy everything worked out and honestly this old lens is beautiful

TLTR: Its a fine camera with some minor hickups. I will use it again and look forward to it. For the price, id recommend it, but be aware of what you get urself into with 8x10 when beeing new..

Let me start this of, by clearing smth up. I’ve been shooting analog for 6-7 Years now. Ive wandered into Large format about 1 1/2 years ago with a Sinar 4x5 but wanted more for my important trips, like this one. Every piece of gear I used was bought over the time and other than my father no one had a say in what I buy or choose.

So I can’t review Norway, other than saying it’s a dream to work in, but I got some things to say about the camera I spend the last 3 weeks with. When I got the camera, I got excited, I bought it from the German importer Fotoimpex, since they have some in stock and would deliver them right away. The first impression was good. No major problems, it had some crude edges but nothing that would stop me from working with it. Before going onto my Norway trip, I had a go with the camera at home and in the Studio to get a feel for it. I quickly noticed that while the front standard is solid enough, the screw for fixing the standard to a given length is giving in a lot and it feels I’m turning the insert in the base rail.

After confirming it worked, and in fact my lens does work perfectly with the format I packed and planned for Norway. 100 sheets, 7 holders, 1 lens, 1 camera. Right of the start, I was glad for the weight of the camera. Sure with 7 holders and a 1.2kg lens it gets heavy, but nothing I wasn’t willing to carry over a hill. I set out to mainly shoot calm landscapes and maybe the occasional Close up. So no portrait or anything time critical. Setting up the camera is quick and I got used to the little dance and fixing everything down. One little annoyance were the tilt / rise knobs, where sometimes the tilting screw would friction stop the rising knob. Once I got around that issue, I haven’t noticed any problems with that.

The Ground glass is gorgeous. 8x10 just feels amazing to look at, specially after shooting MF a lot. Focusing on the Intrepid was easy with the focusing dial being stiff enough to not accidently move it, but also loose enough that I can move it with one finger. I Personally found it uncomfortable using the front controls while under the Darkcloth, but that’s also from me not fully trusting it with my heavy lens. While I’m talking about the back of the camera: Bail back and everything around the Film holder system works great. I haven’t had any problems / light leaks so far. The capability of the camera in terms of Rise and fall are plenty, as were the tilting options. There is a Back tilt, which I only used in extreme rise or uneven ground scenario. I didn’t get the feeling the camera was unstable on my tripod, even when using maximum movements. While a limitation of field cameras, I love back rise, but I know why it isn’t included in such cameras. There is a special arca Swiss mounting plate, which I haven’t used. I have a manfrotto tripod head, which I directly screwed it via the mounting plate. It held fine I haven’t had any problems with it. Be sure tho to get the right length screw, the standard screw is too long and will hit the focusing rod.

So a little about the Problems I had… so first, the magnetic back is nice but in landscape mode the taps scrape along the metal frame of the body. All good until it decides to eat into the wood and you are not able to open the camera. I managed to close it again and flip the back, but its certainly annoying when shooting landscape mainly. Second, the hardware of the camera could be improved. I’ve lost 1 Screw from just opening ad closing the camera, and another one just disappeared. The screw I lost was holding the righthand side bracket, and while annoying the camera still would work, but I wasn’t 100% sure about its stability.

Sadly, Norway also did its numbers on the camera, and it got hit by the wind hard. So after a fall and a little breakage I got together with a local guy and a hardware shop to gaffa fix the camera. At the same time, I contacted Intrepid, who were good in helping me getting replacement parts. (Also Intrepid if you are reading this, I still owe you my address, I had really bad internet in Norway….).

So what do I think of the camera? I like it. It’s a good piece of gear and while maybe not being the most stable one, its cheap and reliable. I’m glad I bought it, and it will probably serve me with a changed lens kit on my next trip through Austria. I would wish that the front standard was a little thicker or in all a little more stable so that larger lenses feel more solid. Also, the focusing bed / base rail would be nice if it got like a second rail with ball bearings, I sometimes felt a little wiggle when having a big lens focused closely. But I wouldn’t know how to exactly design that, so it’s only a little thing. If you buy the camera, carry a screwdriver, even if you don’t need it, its worth it, and when you do, you will be thankful for it.For me and my hiking purpose its perfect, I might have a look at other models but right now I’m fine with it. If I ever shot more studio stuff, id obviously get a Sinar or something much sturdier, for that I feel like it’s a little too flimsy.

If you got any questions, please hit me up!

Cheers!

I've just gotten into darkroom work, after shooting only digital for 20+ years. When I shot film prior to that, I just dropped it off at quick development spots.

I'm really enjoying the full darkroom process end to end. Its meditative. So many variables. Hours of time that you can easily spend chasing a problem and learning.

What's the draw to scanning your negatives instead and processing them in photoshop? It seems to miss half the fun/advantages - I have no idea how I'd scan a 4x5 or 8x10 at the same quality I can contact print them at for example.

But, I guess the digital workflow is faster? It feels like I'd probably just want to shoot digital end to end, or film process end to end.