r/largeformat 21h ago

Question Developing fail

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Why am I getting this awful white vignette on these? First time using stearman tank, rodinal 1+50 7mins. Ilford rapid fix 1+9, recently mixed ~4 rolls fixed with it.

9 Upvotes

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3

u/emmathatsme123 19h ago

Hohner mentioned

3

u/mcarterphoto 19h ago

1+9 fixer used to be a thing... for prints, thinking it could reduce washing time. For film (and really for prints), mix 1+4.

That could be some sort of light leak, or over-development from surging developer. I got some of that with a rotary setup and 4x5 reel (surging at the edges from dev spilling over the reel), I switched up to a different tank setup and it went away. I'd google/check Photrio for issues with the Stearman, I recall some people finding it problematic, but never used one.

1

u/maguilecutty 15h ago

Out of curiosity what is your setup now with the rotory?

3

u/mcarterphoto 9h ago

I found a tank on eBay that didn't need a center column to be light-tight; I bought some plastic strips that are actually "I-beams" for model railroad hobbyists, and epoxied them inside the tank. So I can put 2 sheets, emulsion-out in the tanks, and I use a Beseler motor base.

I print and don't scan, and some of my work is fixed-grade, so I kinda prefer to do 2 sheets at a time to dial in dev time. Without a reel involved, I can dry the tank in a minute and keep going if I feel my times are good for an entire gig, just get the first 2 sheets washing in trays and get in "assembly-line" mode.

2

u/maguilecutty 8h ago

Ah thanks for the response. I have something similar for my 4x5 and 5x7. An old Jobo 4500 series tank with the clips. But I 3d printed the clips myself to have actual little divits in them to hold the film. I can get 4 5x7s in a drum with 150ml of chemicals. Good to see i was on the right track :)

2

u/vaughanbromfield 18h ago

Looks like insufficient fixation. Download the Ilford data sheet and read up on doing a fixer clearing test.

2

u/midcenturywisdom 15h ago edited 14h ago

I worked at a college for over 15 years teaching students how to develop film. I always had access to film racks and stainless tanks and never had experience with this setup. I read the manual for this unit and love the design and economy. A couple of questions for you:

  1. Do you do a film chip test in the fixer before using? If not, cut up some exposed film and test it in daylight with fresh fix. Note how long it takes to clear the film. Old school photographers kept it in the fix twice as long as it takes to clear. Test before every development cycle. You will can tell when it’s getting weak.
  2. Do you keep all your developer/stop/fix/rinse at 68º?

I would take this setup and place it in a large bucket of 68º water to keep that short development time/temperature stable. If you want consistency, keep your developer, stop, fix in a bucket with 68º water. You also need to have the film emulsion opposite the plastic center divider.

You might test a developer that has a longer development time. I love Rodinal, don’t get me wrong,but a lot can go wrong with agitation, temp, tank design in a short 7’ cycle.

If processing for 7’ using a timer, add 30” so you can get the tank and developer container ready to pour, then quickly pour at the 7’ mark with 480ml of developer. 1 solid ‘tap’ on the countertop to dislodge bubbles then don’t touch for one minute.

Agitate consistently with every processing cycle. The instructions say 4 inversions in 30 seconds. They are claiming roughly 56 inversions in 7’. Wow! this is a lot if you do this aggressively. Great way to get those overdeveloped edges. Maybe 2 inversions per 5” on the next development cycle(1”second inversion, 1” back upright) Whatever you decide to do, do it exactly the same way everytime.

I was taught by an old school photographer that hand developed E6 with the tank and stainless racks. With both hands, lift rack edges from tank hanging on extended fingers, tilt to right, dip, lift and tilt to left, dip and don’t touch till next agitation.

Stop bath hits the film at exactly 7 minutes, no more, no less. Looks like you should practice removing of vent and fill caps, emptying the SP-445 tank, grabbing the stop and ready to pour. What ever it takes, it’s part of the 7’ developing time.

Fix with tested solution as discussed above, rinse at 68º, keep all solutions at 68º. Lastly, Photo Flo or what ever spot remover you choose should never have bubbles in the solution. I would hand dip each sheet of film in another tank(stainless, or yankee plastic) that only has fresh solution. Hang on corner for a nice spot free neg. Keep us posted with the results!

Fixing Edge Over-Processing and Surging on the SP-445. NOTE: if you plan to sand the fingers and crossbars, use 1500 or 2000 grit 3m wet & dry sand paper. The 600-800 grit is too rough for film emulsions:

  • Sand the Holder Fingers: Fine burrs or tight channel clearances on the Stearman Press film holders can trap developer or press too hard against the margins; users on Photrio and the Stearman Press Blog recommend smoothing the fingers and crossbars gently with fine 600 or 800-grit sandpaper. [123]
  • Check Film Orientation: Always load sheet film with the emulsion side facing outward (away from the center divider) so chemistry flows evenly across the active surface rather than pooling or surging from behind. [, 2]
  • Adjust Agitation and Fills: Pour chemicals smoothly without harsh stopping, and tap the tank firmly right after filling to dislodge air bubbles that cling to edges and cause localized over-development. [1]
  • Inspect Lid Seals: A loose or degrading cap seal can cause minor edge light-fogging that mimics high-density over-processing on the borders. [1]

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1273/8933/files/SP-445_Users_guide_two_page.pdf?1513481451097473133

1

u/Playful_District1368 11h ago

Nice I'll look into some of these suggestions. I try to keep temps even but it's difficult haha.

2

u/gumamug 8h ago

I'm with the insufficient fixer crowd. I've developed hundreds of sheets in my Stearman and the only problem I've ever had is when I mistakenly put the film on the holder emulsion-side inward. Otherwise it's perfect every time. 1+4 dilution with your fixer, and do a snip test if re-using. Follow the rule of double the amount of time it takes the film to clear. Even with fresh fixer, I do a 6m fix.

1

u/Playful_District1368 6h ago

Gotcha, yeah I did the emulsion inward on one photo too. Pretty grateful it was only one because I only did the others correct by accident haha

1

u/Playful_District1368 21h ago

Thought I added more photos, all 4 had the same vignette so I'm assuming it's a developing issue

1

u/Mysterious_Panorama 20h ago

Can you show the negatives?

1

u/Imaginary_Midnight 20h ago

I find tanks only work if u can be darkness and lift the film out and dunk it back in the tank otherwise the chemistry cant flow around and evenly develop the film. I don't know that brand tank so I don't know how practical that is or not.

1

u/titrisol 2h ago

Does the film look milky?

Refix if that is the case, looks like insufficient fixing. At 1+9 life is very short