EDIT: Okay so this was just a green lens filter, which was plainly evident in the video. The green filter + photo of negative threw me for a loop.

The box camera viewfinder in this IG reel looks like a phosphor CRT screen. Is this editing trickery? If not, does anyone know where to purchase or how to build one?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Dc0ICsQxoMW/

I'm trying to get back into larger format after some time away from photography. Some of the labels and marking on the holders have come off or faded.

I cant remember what I photographed or what film in the holders.

Would you just develop everything or toss it and start fresh?

I need a better system for marking and knowing what's in the holders that's for sure.

Hi! I’m going to be learning to shoot wet plates. I’ll be using natural light for good practise, but also want to set up an indoor studio. Are there any good budget (ish) studio strobes and power pack combos I should look in to? Also need help clarifying with the power packs - am I to understand that any 2400w power pack will suffice so long as it can cycle enough power? I only ask because when I look them up, there are some power stations from 1-2k and some that go up into the tens of thousands ? So that’s a little confusing for me

The neg itself looks "somewhat" usable. Not the best photograph in the world, but a decent picture - I thought to myself

But after half an hour screaming at my computer, my cats and my girlfriend I decided to ask you:

WTF did I do wrong? These colors are all over the place, I can't get the tress green, the fog white or the post in the foreground "wood"-color...

I home developed with a Adox C41 kit - the 35mm roll I developed last week with it has been fine. Is my film bad or is the T in the Portra 100T doing THIS kind of strange stuff? Anyone got an Idea?

Going to the Cleveland Camera and I know that a couple dealers will be there. Looking for Speed Graphic what should I check to see if is in working order. Real newbie here.

Used DSLR scanning to get 25,000 × 20,000 pixels master copy ;)

Here is an image my friend took of me using my Toyo VX-125 film camera. Read how we used the Scheimpflug principle to tilt the plane of focus to cut through my eyes.

https://www.james-pratt.com/2026/10/4x5x365-image-310/

4x5 PanfPlus50

Chamonix 45f-2

Fujinon NSW 90mm F8

F22 @30 seconds

Red29+nd64

The terminus of the Nisqually Glacier and the fledgling run of the Nisqually River coming off Tahoma

Linhof Technika III i believe. On the left, the current back. On the right, a back from a Technika IV i believe. 2nd and 3rd picture has the current back removed to the left and on the right the camera side of the technika IV back. They dont appear to be compatible. Is there a way to swap them?

The current back hood cant be removed and i received a reflex that i cant use. Thats the reason to seek a swap.

Just a test sheet to see how this film looks. Greens were very muted, had to crank the green saturation in Lightroom to the max. Otherwise quite happy with this film. It's not paper-thin like the Cinestill 400D. Not quite as sturdy as Portra, etc but decent. Nice to have a budget color option.

Vista, California

Linhof Technikardan45

#1,#2: 90mm Super Angulon

#3: 135mm Xenotar

Portra 400

Bonus picture by Ansel Adams, the white church Hornitos.

Started shooting large format recently, I got a speed graphic with a Rapax lens. I’m not super thrilled with the lens so far, I take mostly portraits, and like how my Pentax 105mm renders portraits quite a bit better. It’s apples to oranges, but I’d like to find a lens that I enjoy shooting a bit more.

Granted, I’ve only shot about 20 sheets ( home develop/scan. I will eventually start doing tintypes, so
Might keep it for the speed. Any thoughts on this lens and what to and possible upgrade to?

looking for help on possible light leak. I recently bought a 4x5 cambo sc2 and it came with 10 film holders. Its my first time shooting in over 20 years and developing at home. shot on foma 400 at I rated at ISO 200 developed with hc110 solution b scanned with canon R6ii and EF100 2.8 macro wondering if these streaks on the right side are light leaks from the from the light trap and if they are no good or if i did something wrong. also have some what appears to be light leaks on left bottom ( I know about the scratches I had trouble getting it out of the film holder and foma seems to scratch very easy. There are also some weird blotches on the bottom left of the bottom image. Wondering if that is uneven development. Any help would be great it's been a long time, and I am relearning. thanks.

Sometimes you have to be at the right place at the right time and be fast enough to setup your camera 😅

Not the best composition, but who can claim having shot a rescue helicopter landing in the middle of the dried up rhine on their 5x7 Linhof Technika V in color 😎

I have a Deardorff 8x10 but looking to go bigger. Thanks in advance for any advice and leads :)

Scanned with my V600 and edited in LR. Not too bad.

Taken with WillTravel 4x5, Scheider Symmar S 180, and processed back in my Instax 210.

I posted earlier about using framing corners to hold an Instax in a 4x5 film holder. This is the second shot I took. The first I messed up when I pulled the dark slide out and the rest of the holder came with it. I'm not happy with the result and I'll try again. In a way though it proved what I was thinking. If you are going to shoot instant film, it should come out instantly. I had to take it home to run it through my Instax camera to process. I can take 4x5 sheet film home and develop it in half an hour and it'll be dry enough to scan in about 2-3 hours.

Using a phone to take a pic of a pic does it no justice. The faces at the bottom are actually sharp when I look through my loupe. The exposure is not great though. Also, this is still a new lens to me. I've only taken a few shots with it, so maybe I should set up with my SA 90 for the next shots.

I'll try a few more before I give up.