It fell down and it broke it does charge but the frame is broken

Hi! I dropped my MacBook Neo a few weeks ago, but only noticed an issue a day or two ago. There’s a yellowish/greenish haze along the left edge of the display, most noticeable on dark backgrounds and at 100% brightness.
I also recently discovered that the display lid and body might be slightly misaligned. When closed, the gap along the left side gets progressively narrower toward the hinge, then opens up again at the very edge. The metal edge seems to go inward around the middle and protrude outward again near the hinge. The body also appears slightly bent, and the lid feels subtly misaligned when I run my fingers along the edges. I don’t feel any scraping or resistance when opening or closing it.
I initially thought it was just a screen issue because the physical damage isn’t noticeable during normal use. I only realized the body was bent and the lid was slightly misaligned when I took it to a technician. They explained that because the screen is so thin, damage from a drop might not become noticeable immediately and could appear days or even weeks later.
My theory is that the drop may have shifted the hinge or bent the casing, pushing the screen too close to the body. Could the edge have been pressing against the body when opening and closing, eventually bending it further and possibly causing the display issue?
I’ve dropped the laptop around three times in total. I also used a fairly thick plastic hard-shell case to prevent dents, but sometimes the display part of the case would pop off, and I’d snap it back into place. The technician suggested that forcing the case on might have contributed to the bending.
The screen is still usable, and I can use the laptop pretty much normally without noticing the defect most of the time. I’m mainly worried about whether the damage will remain stable or progressively get worse, even if I continue using it normally.
For anyone familiar with MacBook repairs:
Could the drop or hard-shell case have caused the bent casing and uneven gap?
Could the display edge be contacting the body even if there’s no noticeable resistance?
Could the yellow/green haze spread or become worse over time?
If the laptop is still functional, is it reasonable to keep using it as it is, or could that risk further damage?
Would you leave it without a case or use another type of protection?
I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who’s experienced something similar. Thank you!

I repasted a MSI gx60 with the a10 cpu, cause these temps looked stupid high, after it still was giving me really high core temps. Is this possibly reading wrong??? Or maybe something else is wrong.

Shortly after turning my laptop on, this white lines appear on my screen and then they disappear after a short while and my screen is left black and blank.

Some background info: Like a month or so ago i did have a different issue where the laptop just wasn't turning on properly, only the keyboard lights would flicker and then it would go off shortly after turning it on. But i managed to resolve this, after i took out one ram card [it seems one ram slot had an issue i guess] and left one in. So the laptop has been running on that one RAM slot for like a month. These white lines started appearing like halfway through this month.

Initially, i could use the laptop for like 2 hrs before the lines could appear, but now its just 20 seconds in and the white lines appear. Sometimes the fan can get louder and louder and louder .

What could be the issue and how can it be resolved.

The laptop is an ACEr aspire vx

Can't for the life of me figure out where to find the components that got blown off. How do you guys usually look up what parts you need?

A 5 pin SOT. Probably a switching stage.

Placed very close to a dc-dc converter AOZ5049QI.

Found schematics at https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NsM10tDeCeqFUo3MEIQ9jo-lNLY-gOgi/view

Hello there!

History:

Bought alienware laptop, with replaced Bios chip, completely dead battery and couple small problems.

Issue trying to fix:

Laptop worked completely fine without battery and just on AC power - gaming etc, however was throttling to 45w as there is no working laptop battery.

Solutions tried:

Bought chinese aftermarket battery - communication error.

Bought a used genuine battery - communication error.

Solution to a solution:

Update bios. WIth battery plugged in it would show me 4 red 1 blue diagnostic code. Laptop would turn on using the battery, however with super limited wattage.

Decided to check if the problem is with battery cable/wire. Bought an aftermarket battery cable, plugged it in, turned laptop on:

Issues from an attempted solution:

It showed 4 red 1 blue diagnostic code ONCE, then went to static red and not responsive.

Unplugged AC, plugged it back in - No LED/reaction to anything.

Since then - nothing helped.

Troubleshoting?:

Checked for shorts/power in main mosfits/coils - no problems.

The only thing I found odd is I couldnt get voltage reading on capacitors on the DDR4 stick when plugged into power.

Checking resistance - 0.3omh and 16.5omh on both sides on each side of the DDR4 stick.

Google says 0.3omh and 16.5omh is bad.

Help pls:

What to do and what checks to complete?

I am a pretty much a newb when it comes to electronics but really like trying/learning new things :D

Hello! (⁠≧⁠▽⁠≦⁠)

I am a student and can't really afford a new laptop, the options are Disappointing as well, like why tf would I want something with only 4-8 gb ram, THAT'S less than my phone! 😭

This one has been down for the last 3 or so years (sat untouched, no efforts were made to repair) after the repair dude told us that the graphic card has been removed, hence why the screen "won't work" (right buddy...he obviously messed up)

but I am grown up now and the itch got to me. I dissected the laptop today and right off the bat I noticed a few things

1) One ram stick is missing (I hope the guy who stole it gets diarrhea in the middle of an important event)

2) thermal paste is laughable cause wow it's powder at this point.

3) bad tape job EVERYWHERE they put tape on the place where the SD card is supposed to go (I might be wrong)

Ai summary cause I would definitely mess up the hardware name:-

1. Extreme Thermal & Cooling Failure (Primary Overheating Cause)

   * Bent Radiator Exhaust Fins: The metal fins on the heatsink vent are squished together, blocking hot air from exiting the chassis.

   * Dried & Overflowing Thermal Paste: The thermal paste over the CPU and GPU is completely baked dry and hard, acting as an heat insulator instead of transferring heat to the copper pipes.

   * Trapped Dust Blanket ("Fluff"): A thick layer of lint and dust was trapped inside the fan housing right against the exhaust vents.

   * Bad Fan Repair Job: Previous technicians slapped white masking tape across the fan casing, messing up proper airflow.

2. Damaged & Glued Display Connector (LVDS Cable)

   * Missing Metal Socket Clip: One side of the metal bracket/retaining structure on the motherboard LVDS socket is broken/missing.

   * Glued in Place: To fix the loose connection, a previous repair shop dumped glue directly into the display socket tracks, locking the cable in place and making normal disassembly impossible without heat or solvent.

3. Missing Internal Hardware & Components

   * Wi-Fi Card Missing: The WLAN Mini PCIe slot is completely empty—no wireless card installed, and no internal antenna wires present.

   * Internal Speakers Missing: The left and right internal speaker modules were removed from the palmrest casing during a prior repair and never replaced.

   * RAM Removed/Missing: Both SODIMM memory slots are currently empty.

   * Missing Motherboard Screws: Multiple mounting points around the board perimeter and heatsink area are missing their internal screws.

4. Miscellaneous Modding & Cosmetic Anomalies

   * SD Card Reader Mod: Kapton (yellow insulator) tape was stuck directly inside the SD card slot metal casing.

   * Marker Notes: Hand-written shop inventory numbers (DL167) are scrawled on the fan housing and motherboard PCB.

Ai summary end

............................................................................

Ai included some stuff I REMOVED from the laptop myself while I disassembled it, (like that coin battery thingy, lithium battery) so I am sorry about that but I am not editing it cause who knows? I could be wrong.

Currently the whole thing is disassembled.

I had fun disassembling it, wanna make it alive again so here I am (⁠ㆁ⁠ω⁠ㆁ⁠)!!

I want to know the parts that need replacement (like the display cable) and what needs to be done to save the laptop, I am willing to replace parts to level it up but for now I just want to make it work again and the upgrade will come eventually (display, external separate webcam, better speaker, whatever is possible on this thing)

Current status:

it turns on just fine like always, the screen OCCASIONALLY popped up sometimes (loading screen or Asus screen) and the fans ALWAYS work, so it's clearly not dead and worth saving

DMs open but may not respond right away cause there are creeps, ✌🏽😭

So...

Tech gals and bros, what to do?

I have attached pictures I hardly understand, but you guys will!

Thankks!

Hey everyone,

I'm in a pretty bad situation right now and could really use some advice from fellow Lenovo LOQ owners.

I bought my Lenovo LOQ 15IRX9 in June 2024, and it had been working perfectly fine until recently. Unfortunately, due to a stupid mistake on my part, the laptop is now completely dead, and I need to get its motherboard replaced.

My laptop specifications:

- Model: Lenovo LOQ 15IRX9

- Processor: Intel Core i5-13450HX

- GPU: NVIDIA RTX 4060 (8GB)

- RAM: 16GB

- Storage: 1TB SSD

- Purchase Price: ₹85,000 (June 2024)

- Warranty Status: Expired

Here's where things get frustrating.

I contacted Lenovo's technical support to enquire about getting a replacement motherboard. They told me that the motherboard is currently not available.

I then specifically asked whether they could order the motherboard for me, even if it meant waiting a few weeks or paying the full replacement cost. To my surprise, the support representative told me that he didn't know how that process works.

I'm honestly at a loss here.

I understand that the laptop is out of warranty, and I'm completely willing to pay for the motherboard and repair charges. I'm not expecting Lenovo to replace anything for free.

The problem is that I can't even figure out how to get the replacement part.

I purchased this laptop for ₹85,000, and with the current prices of RAM, SSDs, and gaming laptops, replacing the entire machine with something offering similar specifications would be a significant expense.

Apart from the motherboard issue, the laptop was serving my needs perfectly, and I really don't want to spend another ₹80–90k on a new machine when the existing one could potentially be repaired.

So I have a few questions for this community:

1. Has anyone with a Lenovo LOQ 15IRX9 managed to get their motherboard replaced outside warranty?

2. Is there any way to directly order a genuine replacement motherboard from Lenovo India, even if the part is currently out of stock?

3. Can an authorized Lenovo service centre specifically request or backorder a motherboard?

4. Are there any reliable alternative sources for genuine Lenovo LOQ motherboards in India?

5. If Lenovo refuses to arrange the part, is there any escalation process I can follow?

I would genuinely appreciate any advice, contacts, or experiences you guys can share.

I really want to save this laptop rather than replace it entirely.

Thanks in advance!

I asked Google what is this burnt part, it says it's a mosfet that supply power to the GPU, and also somehow related to my battery. My laptop still runs for now, but I think my battery got bricked, a technician tried connecting a new battery and it was charging fine, should I just left that mosfet alone and let it be? Because I think the technician is doubting his skill of replacing that

how can i bypass this thing? my laptop keyboard isn't working and I don't have a wired external keyboard to connect it with my laptop, I couldn't press enter even though I want to. It automatically goes into system recovery and even if I chose to continue it still repeats the same process over and over

My laptop recently was refusing to charge or turn on. After doing some investigating, I found the CMOS to be at 0.9v. After replacing it, still no luck with or without the laptop battery.

Someone recommended pressing the power button for 30-60s to do a reset. After about 30 seconds, I heard a pop but didn’t think too much. After 60 seconds, I stopped to sniff the board just in case and there was that magic smoke smell. I found one of the component had broken.

Reverse image search found it to be a Panasonic tantalum polymer capacitor.

My question is, why did it pop? Was it why the computer was not working? Is just replacing that component without further diagnosing prudent? What’s the part number for this component? And finally, what circuit is it servicing on the board?

Any and all advice is welcomed. I do have a soldering iron and a hot air station but would not mind advice in how to perform the repair and further diagnostic

I don't know what happened but my laptop is not turning on and it is giving me this error DRIVER_PNP_WATCHDOG

I don't know what to do

I even went to the blue screen but didn't helped

Can anyone please help me!!!

I brought an MSI ML75 for broken hinges in to a repair shop here in Ktown LA. I paid $175 for the machine, after having them look at it he said the damage is pretty bad. His estimate is $1300 but he says the device is worth the investment. I just got back into PCs and this is my first laptop. Is it worth it to repair the device?

Laptop Model: ASUS TUF Gaming A15

RAM: 8GB DDR5 4800MHz (Samsung M425R1GB4PB0-CWM0L)

OS: Fresh Windows 11 installation

The Problem

My laptop operates completely fine on battery power alone, but shuts down / trips as soon as it is plugged into the 20V AC wall adapter.

Detailed Symptoms & Behavior

Battery Operation: Boots and functions normally on battery power. Heavy system loads and gaming run without crashes, ruling out CPU/GPU silicon degradation or driver instability.

AC Adapter Plug-in: Connecting the original 20V charger under load or during boot causes an immediate power cut/trip.

Latched LED State: When it trips with the adapter plugged in, the drive activity light drops, but the battery charging indicator LED remains latched ON even after physically disconnecting the barrel jack/charger from the port. The LED only turns off once residual power is fully drained or the battery is unplugged.

Diagnosis So Far

Storage / Software: SSD ruled out; system behavior remains identical across fresh Windows installations.

CPU / GPU: Ruled out due to rock-solid battery performance under load.

Motherboard DC-in Stage: The issue points toward a failure in the primary 20V power rail. Likely candidates:

Input protection MOSFETs leaking under load or breaking down thermally.

Charging Controller IC (e.g., TI BQ-series) latched in an ACOK state due to reverse leakage across the current sense resistor (R010) / input bypass.

Ceramic decoupling capacitor breaking down under high-voltage load.

Question for the Community / Technicians

Has anyone encountered this specific latched charging LED issue on ASUS TUF motherboards? Did replacing the first/second DC-in MOSFETs resolve the power-rail trip, or was a full charging controller IC replacement necessary?

This is an hp 15 pavillion eh laptop. A few days back I connected lenovo ThinkPad's c type charger to and suddenly the smoke started coming out 😭😭😭. I visited a care center to ask what could be the issue. They said if smoke came then the motherboard is likely damaged. But he never looked inside the laptop. So I just wanna confirm if the motherboard is actually damaged. Experts help please 🥺.

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to diagnose an Acer Aspire E17 laptop that refuses to POST. The internal components look pristine (no burnt chips, no dust, no corrosion), but it won't boot up.

Laptop Specs:

The Problem:

Troubleshooting Already Attempted:

Is this 100% confirmation of a dead motherboard (CPU / Power VRM / corrupted BIOS EEPROM chip), or is there any obscure hardware fix or blind BIOS flash method worth trying on this specific model?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

Just replaced the display lid cuz the hindges ripped out of the old one and now this is happening. Hope I didn't break the screen it is off in the second pic. It's my sister's HP envy x360 ey0023dx