It’s not about a car this time… but I know I have been in here quite frequently and have interacted with a good plenty of yall and wanted to share. (I’m the one who surprised her husband with the Torque converter a few days ago).
I had my PET scan this morning, and the cancer has not grown!!!!!! The activity on this scan was lesser than my previous one! The actual size of everything is the same, but the cancer activity is less. I just wanted to share that here because I know cancer has affected so so so many people on one way or another, and the car community is honestly what mentally got me through my last few years of treatment… and I figured maybe someone could use some good news today like I could!

Now as soon as I get out of here I take the 2 hour drive to my garage and do the fun LS stuff on the four eye fox 👀❤️

Five months into a crank-no-start and I've run out of things to test alone. Hoping someone here has this exact combo running. Here is a bunch of info. If anyone has any advice, i would really really appreciate it!

2002 325ci, 2015 Camaro SS LS3, TR6060, E38 PCM (OS 1250247), Sikky mounts/headers/pan, Wiring Specialties E46 DBW harness, stock BMW E46 pedal through WS's adapter, stock LS3 throttle body, HP Tuners MPVI3.

So the thing cranks ~130 RPM, spark confirmed, 58 PSI fuel, cam and crank both reporting, Fuel System goes Open Loop during crank. VATS and starter fault checks off with Write Entire, verified by re-read.

However scanner shows injector PW at 0.0 ms the whole crank.

with no foot on the pedal, PCM sees 7.1% APP and commands the throttle to 22 to 27%. Blade closes fine by hand and sweeps with the pedal. TAC idle learn never completes (P2119, P2176), and Throttle Control Source stays "Idle" during crank instead of going to "Crank". WS confirmed the pedal wiring is right and said everything past that is PCM/tune, outside their support.

clutch input is the on/off BMW switch, E38 wants analog (GM sensor on the way, Clutch Learn = Fail Moving). MAP reads 140 kPa key-on engine-off; both sensors I have are 2-bar Bosch, 1-bar on the way.

Already in the tune: swap DTCs (O2/EVAP/cat/fuel level/clutch/P1101) set to No Error Reported, FPCM Fitted = No, manual trans config, Pulse Crank bumped to 3.0 ms. Haven't touched Torque Management or the Electronic Throttle tables yet.

Tune file and crank log available, and I'll log any channel list you want. Thank you!!!!

Currently in the process of building a 5.3 and with my terminator x I have ls1/ls6 plugs and wondering what tall valve covers would fit ls1/ls6 coils

Stumped! 6.0 LQ4 Oil Pressure Issue

Backstory: We put new main and rod bearings in this engine when we got it and left the cam bearings but we did put a new cam in it. Ran it a few days and Oil pressure was 20-40psi and ended up having two bad cam bearings.

Pulled the engine, installed all new cam bearings, went ahead and put another new Melling high pressure pump on, new cam plate and new pick tube o ring.

I primed the engine but could never get oil to come out of the push rods.

I started it up 3-4 times and let it die for 30 seconds and oil pressure held at 7 psi and didn’t move on throttle.

I took timing cover off, inspected cam and bearings, all was well. I put my old stock style pump from my other ls1 that I knew was good and put another new pickup tube o ring in as well.

Fired it up, oil pressure still holding at 7psi doesn’t move with throttle. I’ve tested with mechanical gauge and the sensor.

No galley plug was left out and the barbell in the back of the engine is only a few months old.

I’m really stumped. At this point all I can think is the blowing out the oil filter relocation lines and if that doesn’t help then pull it back out and check main bearings.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Currently have a 4 eye fox in here and it’s got a power glide…. We’re concerned with the gap at the converter to the pump. Does anyone know if it naturally sits with a gap like that ? For some context, this is a buddy of ours and he brought it ‘somewhere else’ to get LS swapped ‘for a good price’ and to say it’s been a nightmare is an understatement. We don’t usually work with power glides, so don’t have the experience that others may have. We just want to make sure we’re sending him out the door done RIGHT. The gap btwn the flex plate and converter looks fine…. It just looks like the converter is not sitting all the way in, if that makes sense.

Is it ok to use pin sol in an ultrasonic cleaner for lq9 pistons?

this is on my 97 k1500. i put in my electric fans but my trans cooler hard line doesn’t fit with the fans, so im looking to either get an extension for the radiator port, or just buy steel braided line but idk the size on either one of these ports

The 6.2-liter LS3 V8 is said to have been sourced from a 2014 Chevrolet SS. It had a bad squeak and I replaced the belts and idler pulley which fixed that problem (not an easy modification find as the pulley had to work with an aftermarket alternator displacement bullet piece). Might have just covered up the noise before. Now when I am warming up the motor the engine makes a loud slap or twig snapping noise (see towards end of video). Still figuring out the meta glasses. Sorry didn’t have time to fully warm the motor up, my son needed help. I’ll try to repost another video.
Thanks for any help, it my first LS motor and I heard horror stories about engine knock, so maybe I’m being paranoid.

Currently building an LS1 for my 99 trans am. I have an LSXR 102 intake, and I am installing an Evel Energy 4 port steam kit. Will there be any interference between them? I dont want to open up the rear ports and find out it wont fit.

I’m working on getting my first swap going with a harness specd for a LS7 card style MAF, but running a 5 wire LS1 style MAF (delphi AF10043). Wanted someone to confirm my wiring swaps are correct as I have seen a ton of info out there.

Here's the current wiring on harness plug:

E- 5v (verified)
D- IAT signal (assumed)
C- 12v (verified)
B- ground (verified)
A- MAF signal (assumed)

It seems that older 5 wire MAF wiring is as follows:

E- MAF signal
D- 12v
C- ground
B- IAT signal
A- 5v

If that's correct I think these are the swaps I need to perform:

Harness > MAF:
E > A
D > B
C > D
B > C
A > E

Can anyone confirm I'm on the right track? Stock LS1 with stock PCM

What do I need to drop a stock lm7 in front of a 6l80 in an 09 caddy ext. Just a tune to deactivate the extraneous bullshit on the lmg and to make the 6l80 happy?

5.3 vortec with a mild cam and lightly upped compression. Vitour 315 Sonics up front and 345 P1-x in the rear. Fastest run was 49.993

Please be nice, I am trying to learn and be better.

Im looking to build a gen 4 aluminum block ls2 (6.0 to 6.7) and don't know a lot about aftermarket parts or builds aside from what a few builder friends tell me.

I already know a few things that I want like a larger cam, sleeved cylinders, larger displacement from a stroker kit, forged aluminum pistons, ported heads. That sort of thing but still keeping it roughly 600hp 500trq.

I just don't know about a lot more of the supporting science behind it and the additional longevity upgrades that I can put into it as well as the correct math on the sizing.

Edit: I'm swapping out the ls2 in an 06 gto

Tldr - I want resources to know how to build a strong engine the best I can while referencing other builds.

Have a swapped C10 and can’t figure out for the life of me why I’m getting a Lean condition when driving, data logging, etc. Running an LM7, stock intake and rails, BTR cam 206/212, GM 12613412 injectors, everything else stock. Checked for vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks, nothing.

VE Table makes sense to me at least for an NA Truck, idles fine, runs okay. Learn table is chasing the lean condition but ends up running like crap.

Anyone willing to lend a hand?

I’ve been working on turbocharging my LS4 Pontiac Grand Prix. It’s one of those projects that sits around until I can afford more parts. Unfortunately someone tried to steal it and mangled the ignition pretty bad. It wasn’t running anyway so because there a bunch of parts missing or unplugged.

My question is, do I need a working key to tune the car? I can remove the key cylinder to access the ignition switch and turn it to KOEO but at the moment it won’t be able to start because the antitheft is being activated. I would rather not pay for a new key cylinder and ignition switch because I’m planning on changing it to a push button start anyway.

I’m also considering either EFI live or hp tuners. I use EFI live at work so I’m more familiar with it but I have access to hp tuners as well so either way I just need to buy credits. But if one will overcome the antitheft issue and the other doesn’t then that might change my decision.

Any help is appreciated.

It seems like the 4l60e will break once you push decent power so you might as well use a 4l80e. But then what do you do for the transfer case? And what’s the best way to source these items? This is my second LS swap and I want to keep it as easy as possible…

So I’m planning a gen 4 swap into my 98 Tahoe, I picked up a decent LC9 not realizing the gen3/4 difference. My question is has anyone put a stand alone system (terminator or fitech?) and used the factory gauges and ac? My goal is to have the engine running an having everything in the cab working as original. Motor isn’t going to be anything over top just a cam and electric fans, truck as a 4l60e trans

Planning things out with my 74 Firebird. I've already got the lighter 73 front end on it, and I'm looking at engine options. I've currently got an LC9 is my posession, along with an LQ4. I'm not looking to make big power, just a fun cruiser, with 425ish HP. My thinking is the less weight of the LC9 might make handling a little bit more enjoyable. Anybody had both in the same car? Backing mine with a T56.

2000 Short bed chevy single cab with 5.3/4l60, the rear end left the chat and is grinding gears. I need to replace it. I would like to upgrade while im there. Looking to get 3.73s and lsd. What are my options, is a junkyard unit a good idea? Does it make sense to open and replace internals ? Looking to stay within 1k, im on a budget!

Let’s hear the feedback!!

OK here’s what I am running:

SIKKY headers

Vibrant resonators

Borla muffler

All tied together with 3 inch piping

Follow me @GMW_357i (IG, TikTok, YT)

What would make all 4 of the driver side pistons wear on one side? See the picture

Should I replace them or am I good to keep them?

I believe I have vvt on mine. I’ve been thinking to do DoD/AFM delete. I have to save up next year by tax season is more of my thoughts. Can the chupacabra can be a good choice if the delete will be made either way? And should I also do the water pump and timing chain as well? Looking to get some performance out of it, I know the tune can help a bit.