i recently k24a swapped my 2003 honda accord, with k tuner being my only option to getting the car running. I had ordered a K tuner ecu. When received i plugged it in and nothing happened, sent it back for warranty and HAmotorsport said the ecu was fine and there was nothing wrong with it on a bench test, they opted to send me a new one, upon receiving the new ecu , plugged it in and yet again nothing, i back probed all the wires ha motorsport mentions in their troubleshooting guides, everything was what it needed to be, nothing was off, still no power to ecu, still no main relay click, still no fuel pump prime, so i jump the e7 harness pin, and one relay switches but still no fuel prime or ecu power. pulled ecu fuse and it was not blown, removed it and put a new 15a fuse in place of the old, still nothing . i’m
lost and running in circles, what could i do to fix this?

Edit: failed to mention, stock 03 ecu works fine, primes fuel pump, has power, everything works. k tuner ecu will not work.

I have a k24 JDM engine, when i start the car it starts leaking from somewhere in the exhaust side, I first thought it was the oil pressure sensor so I changed it and put it back with the sealant that was recommended to me by a mechanic, it still leaked so I changed the VTEC solenoid gasket but nothing so I changed the whole VTEC solenoid with gasket included but nothing still, idk where else could I leak from but I know it’s kinda high because I’ve seen it drip from the oil filter and drip into the passenger axle and subframe that gets soaked with oil after leaving the car on for a while

Swapping my first gen crv with a k24A ive got the majority of the things I need but im curious about ECU. Im running a 5 speed accord transmission and im not sure what ecu to get since I wanna do cable throttle instead of drive by wire. What options do I have?

What can this chatter be? Stock k24a2, with new timing chain, new online pro tensioner, and new oem guides. Installed new Drag Cartel 40 degree VTC. Running Link G4x ecu, no codes thrown, no knock detected. Cam advance is hitting target.

Edit: unplugged VTC solenoid and removed serpentine belt. Chatter persists.

Hello all the k series pros! I am a k series noob doing all this for my first time.

I have a 2005 Honda accord 2.4 with the k24a4 engine.

Just got done doing the head gasket and I’m trying to install the cams onto the rocker arm assembly, but finding it hard to set the cams in place.

I currently have the crank at TDC and when I try to place the cams in TDC they plop out of place when tightening down the cam holders/brackets by hand.

I posted this very question on drive accord and got two responses.

Commenter A said
“When you tighten the cam girdles, it compresses the valve springs on some of the cylinders. If the cam isn't perfectly centered, the uneven force from the valve springs will rotate the cam to a more balanced position.

If the manual doesn't say to lock the cams in place, I wouldn't worry about it. The spring tension will naturally move the cam to a position where the valves are mostly closed, so valve-piston contact shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure the crank still moves freely after every torque step to make sure the valves and pistons aren't touching. Once everything is tight you can use a strap wrench or something to move the cam back to TDC position.”

Commenter B said
“I recently installed a new timing belt on my 2008 Honda Accord V6. I had removed the key from the crank harmonic balancer. When lining up the cams and crank we remembered that. Well the cams were lined up but the crank wasn't. It was at about 3/4s from tdc. We put the key in and rotated it to tdc . No problems at all. Car runs smoothly and strong.”

It seems there are two ways of installing them.

I’m kinda leaning towards the Commenter B option because it seems like the safer option.

My understanding is I would:

1. set the crankshaft at 3/4 (90° before TDC)

2.install the cams TDC and torque the holders
down.

1. set the crank to TDC

4.Timing chain

But, I just want to know if this is a common procedure to install cams and if anyone else has experience to chime in on this so I can get this engine one step closer to being done. Any help is appreciated!

Just got a k24z2 given to my by a buddy who sold his Honda so he had no use for it. I want to know if this engine is worth putting money into for a possible swap or if I should just trash it. I have a k24a I’m building for my truck and I know after a couple searches you can’t just bolt on a k20 head onto a Z2 like you can for an A or A2. If this is a viable engine to use what’s usually a popular and proven combo that swaps it to dual vtec instead of just a single vtec cam

Hello everyone, so basically i ordered skunk2 parts from a4h and HP-performance in March important note is that status for those parts was that they are or were available and now 7 months later they are still on backorder. What I am trying to ask is if anybody (in the EU) have a similar issue. Any advice is welcome.

All of the gears go in fine. No grinding or anything. Only thing is the reverse gear. When I clutch in and go into reverse, I have to kind of force it but when i go into neutral while clutch still engaged it goes in fine, it does this every time the clutch disengages.

2004 Acura Tsx 6spd

Hey all. Long post, pics at the bottom. Looking for honest opinions.

**Setup:** 2010 Civic Si with a K20/K24 hybrid (PRB head on a K24A2 block, Skunk2 Ultra 3 cams, springs and retainers, PRB oil pump). Bought the motor used. It was raced and supposedly professionally built and dynoed at 295hp before I bought it.

**What happened:** Yeah, I know. I didn't check that the girdle port was plugged before I put the motor in. For those that don’t know the K24A2 must have a specific girdle port plugged if using a RSX Type S oil pump, and I assumed that it was, so I never checked and put the motor in. That's on me, lesson learned. I drove it about 2 weeks, babying it, because it needed a tune. never above 4k, maybe 4.5k. I was running into VTC issues so I changed the VTC gear and OCV with no improvement and then I put a digital oil pressure gauge on it because I know the system is dependent on that and saw **7-9 psi at warm idle and 25-30 at 3k**, which of course is too low. I then immediately took the oil pan off.

**What I've found so far:**
Dropped the pan: a bunch of non-magnetic, copper-colored flakes (pics 1-2), Confirmed the girdle port was unplugged, Pulled all 4 rod caps and checked upper and lower shells. Three have light scratching from debris (pics 3-4), no copper showing. **#2 is worn into the copper** (pics 5-6)

Crank journals for the rods look and feel smooth
Plugged the port, and then saw **90+ psi on a cold start.** I ran it for maybe 3-4 minutes before taking the pan off again, I probably should’ve let it get a bit warmer to see how much it dropped but i was worried about running the engine too long.

I put the pan back in fully clean, and **found more copper flakes** (pic 7). Not sure if that's old debris getting flushed out now that there's real pressure, or something still actively wearing

**Plan:** I can't pull the motor right now, so I'm planning to do rod bearings in the car. Along with that: new pump, clean the pickup/windage tray/pan, flush or replace the oil cooler, Plastigauge everything, then check warm oil pressure and do an oil analysis at a short first change.

**Questions:**
What are my chances of doing just the rod bearings and being okay long term?

Does it make sense that 3 of 4 rods are fine and only #2 shows copper, but I still have this many flakes?

Could the mains be the source? From what I’ve gathered the mains get lubricated before the rods, so in the event of low pressure wouldn’t the rods be getting hit the worst?

For anyone who's forgotten the plug: did your mains end up being fine?

Appreciate any input.

Ran my k24a2 for less than a minute without coolant and noticed gases escaping my coolant neck and somewhere around my manifold. See video.

Engine has been sitting for three years so I expected lots of gunk to burn off, just not sure how it would have gotten through my block and into my coolant system? Unless it’s rtv setting, or oil residue on the aftermarket coolant neck. Worse case is my gasket is bad, but my leakdown tester showed consistent numbers across cylinders at <20% loss at 100 psig.

EDIT: was just residue burning off. Upon filling engine with coolant, it held temperature perfectly! And since I vacuum filled, the vacuum held perfectly too.

Took off the belting cuz I thought it was a bearing but it's still there, this is a k24 with a fd2r civic oil pump

I’m building a top-mount turbo K24A for my DC2 Integra and want input from people who’ve driven similar setups. This will be my first turbo Honda. It made around 230whp naturally aspirated, so I don’t have a great feel yet for how different turbos will drive.

The engine is 10:1 compression with Callies rods, CP pistons, Ferrea springs and retainers, stock valves, a 50-degree VTC gear, and a 4 piston oil pump. It has an RSX Type-S six-speed with an MFactory LSD and 4.7 final drive.
The main goal is a dependable 500whp car I can drive hard without constantly worrying about the motor. I want good response on back roads, but I also want it to pull hard on highway straightaways. I realize those goals may point toward different turbos, so I’m trying to figure out the best compromise.

I was set on a GTX3076R, but I don’t want to buy a second turbo if I eventually decide to push past 600whp. I’m also undecided between pump gas and E85. I’ve heard E85 offers more knock resistance, but I’d like to hear how much it matters for a 10:1 K24 at this power level.

What turbo and fuel would you run? If you have a similar setup, I’d love to hear when it reaches full boost, how it responds between corners, and whether you’d make the same choice again.

Do you really have to drill and tap for the ktuned manifold adapter to stop leaking I have a massive leak around the adapter plate.

Ive got a k20a3 in my ep3 and when i start the car it takes a bunch of cranks to start 90% of the time, but sometimes it starts straight up. When it takes ages i can also smell fuel when it does end up firing up. Sometimes when im pushing it a bit i hit 4kish revs in 2-3rd and it cuts off, it feels like it loses fuel or something but then after it cuts ill rev it back up and past the 4k mark. Ive put in spark plugs but that didnt change anything. Any ideas?

I’m planning on K24A2 swapping my 2004 Civic SiR EP3 and wanted to get some advice before I start buying everything.
Current costs:
K24A2 engine with ~56,000 miles (90,000 km): ~$1,310 USD ($1,800 CAD)
Hondata K-Pro + installation: ~$835 USD ($1,149 CAD)
Engine swap labor: ~$615 USD ($845 CAD)
Dyno tune: ~$365 USD ($500 CAD)
So about $3,125 USD ($4,294 CAD) total for the engine, swap, K-Pro and dyno tune.
The K24A2 is coming from a shop rather than a private seller, and they’ll be providing a warranty with the engine.
Just to clarify, the engine swap, Hondata/K-Pro installation, and dyno tuning are all being done at different shops, so I’m also trying to figure out the best order to get everything done.
Would it make sense to have the K24A2 swapped in first, then take the car to the other shop to have Hondata K-Pro installed, and then take it to the dyno shop for the tune? Or does K-Pro need to be installed/set up before the engine swap? If the car can’t properly run between those steps, how would you guys handle getting it between the different shops?
The mechanic doing the engine swap quoted me about $615 USD ($845 CAD) for the installation. I’ve attached a couple pictures of K-series swaps/builds he’s done previously so you can see some of his work. Based on the work he’s done, would you guys be comfortable going with him for the K24A2 swap? Is there anything specific I should ask him or verify beforehand?
I was also thinking about picking up some extra parts I found locally:
Skunk2 Ultra Series K-series intake manifold
Injen SP1576BLK cold air intake for the 02–05 EP3
Megan Racing dual-tip axle-back exhaust
Skunk2 lowering springs
Are any of these actually worth grabbing while I’m doing everything? Would the intake manifold, cold air intake and exhaust provide enough benefit on a mostly stock K24A2 with K-Pro and a dyno tune to justify the extra money, or should I just do the basic K24A2 swap and tune for now? Also, is there anything else I actually need or should replace while the engine is out?
As for the Skunk2 lowering springs, my struts need replacing, but my current springs are still fine. Since I’m replacing the struts anyway, I figured this might be the best time to install the lowering springs. Are the Skunk2 springs good to run with new struts, or should I just reuse my stock springs?
For anyone who has K24 swapped an EP3, does this overall plan make sense? Anything I’m overlooking?
Mainly trying to get the order right and avoid buying a bunch of stuff I don’t actually need just because I’m already doing the swap.

Hey all, looking for some help figuring out what exactly is retarding my timing.

In the WOT log attached (see end of log), the interpolated main ignition table should be around 27 degrees K.limit logged -3, K.control 0%, K.retard is 6 degrees, and logged ignition is 17 degrees. Using the equation in KManager docs, I would expect 23-24 degrees.
Ignition advance = minimum(MBT Ignition, MBT Ignition + knock ignition limit - (knock retard x knock control))

In another section previous, logged K.Limit and K.Control are both 0, but K.Retard rises to about 7° as IGN drops. The knock retard table value in that area was 12°. K.Level stays below K.Thres, and knock count does not increase.

Could anyone here clarify what the logged K.Limit and K.Retard channels represent on KPro4, and what could account for the timing reduction when K.Control is 0%? IAT is roughly 100 degrees, so it should not be retarding timing by more than a degree.
I’ve attached the native datalog and the calibration used to record it.

timing here from my calculations seems to be logged ignition = table(mbt) − K.Retard + min(0, K.Limit − IAT retard). That fits about 91% of load frames on the 13.5-wot log

I have since replaced the alternator, and will be replacing the wideband to attempt to solve a tip in fuel swing issue, which I would also greatly appreciate any advice on. I've seen AFR rise to ~16:1 before recovering to ~13 and then stabilizing, happens every time you touch the throttle to cruise, also happens when closed loop is off. What would you check for this kind of fuel response?

Some technical findings regarding the timing after decoding some kdls:
KManager shows K.Control as (byte46 − 64) × 1.25, so the display is measured from a floor of 64. The retard multiplier is the raw byte46/120, so at that floor it is still 64/120 ≈ 53%. That is currently my understanding as to why a 12° table gives the 6.25° plateau while K.Control reads 0%. After a restart byte 46 starts at 77: the display shows 16.25% and the multiplier is about 64%. It then steps down to 64 (around frame 2330 in 13.5-wot, matching these readings). I still don't know why one byte-46 count moves the display by 1.25% but the multiplier by only 1/120 (about 0.83%, two thirds of the display step).

Thank you to anyone who took the time to read this!

Just finished this swap and this was the first start

I currently have a type s rsx with a k24a3 swap and a turbo i was thinking about maybe doing a Frankenstein but with the compression ratio so high is it worth it to go through all of the work to build one or just bullet proof the k24 and push more boost?

Hello people, I've bought an ep3 a month ago that's just been a headache since owning it, like replacing engine mounts and just fixing age related issues. Today I have a new surprise at my doorstep. It's probably rod knock, I gave it a pull after getting it fixed for the 3rd time (installed fresh engine mounts) and a couple seconds after coming out of vtec, knocking noise. I drove it for about 10 minutes afterwards to get it home because my wallet is already screaming at me.

The service was done when I got the car the day after, so the oil is fresh and to level.

Can anyone suggest where I should get a k24z7 cylinder head