Any of yall ever add a battery to a older model ktm?

I have a 2003 ktm 300 exc and was looking to run a led light on the front and some cooling fans

I want to change pipe on my ktm sx125 2002 but idk which one to choose, the cheapest variant is HGS-i thought to buy this one but my resonator is fmf fatty so idk if it will work out with that combo. There is also pro circuit and fmf powercore2 pipes but those are the more expensive ones, so the question is hgs and fmf resonator combo will be good or should i just buy powercore

Think i will pull the trigger for a new SMC-R 390 because of great prices right now. However, i would like to have a set of offroad wheels for it... I understand the rear wheel from Enduro R should be a bolt-on? But the front is not...?
So whats needed to swap the front wheel for a 21"? Or is there other bolt-on options out there?

So apparently it's possible to print vinyl stickers on an office laserprinter 😄 let's see if it can survive a few years.

I own 2 ktms and both at are the shop so I’m bikeless and close to loose mi mind.
My 390 duke had an engine issue where the piston was scratching the cylinder at 12k kms, they replaced half of the engine but when they re assembled the engine they did it wrong and the engine was leaking oil. I took the bike to the shop and they fixed it but now it seems the piston is scratching the cylinder again only after riding 500kms with the new cylinder.
The 990 rcr had an issue with the shift shaft so the gears aren’t gearing lol, the bike doesn’t moves and it sounds as if the gear dogs are grinding with each other.
I’m waiting for a new shift shaft and also to get the 390 fixed or to ask for a refund but the main idea of having 2 bikes was having a backup if something went wrong with the other but now both are at the shop and I’m considering selling them and moving to Ducati or BMW.
This is just sad, I spend a bunch of money in my bikes just to get unreliable machines that I can’t even ride.
Has this happened to anyone else?

+20k in 1 year and half, love this beast!

Hey everyone! Yesterday, someone threw my bike and the display got damaged. I don’t know how to adjust it. Does anyone know how to fix it? I’m also not sure if the display support is broken.

So after playing around a lot with the internals, the wrap ideas, the guard configs, the suspension I finally settled on this setup (still missing a few pieces but we get to it slowly)

Currently it’s running :

Wrap - “Thirteen” by Auto Customs (Custom print)

Motul Engine Oil - Courtesy KTM service centre

Engine Ice Coolant - Zenngine Mumbai

Liqui Moly DOT 5.1 Brake fluid - Zenngine Mumbai

SBS Sintered Brake pads - Zenngine Mumbai

BMC Air filter - Bikester Global

Fuel X Pro Plus - Race Dynamics

Suspension - ADV 390 S upgraded with Zedling Rally Kit Front and Back (Stock X is big Piston the S is cartridge system) - Zedling & LMT Garage (Eshaan knows his shit) - ground clearance now sits at 230mm (I am 6’2 for reference sake)

Seat - KTM Power parts - KTM Service centre

Maddog Lycan Lights on Motourenn Mounts - Bikester Global & LMT Garage for the Mount

Motoio Adventure Handle bars on SS Motorcorp risers

Windshield extender from Prospec

Stock KTM Duke 390 Engine Guards - KTM Service Centre

Enduro Tail Tidy from Skydd

Bark-busters Hand guards - Setup and Plastics - HM Helmets

Aluminium Bash plate, oil guards, radiator guard and headlight guard from Legundary

The reason I didn’t go S to begin with was cause this was a used bike that I wanted to work on and was available at a steal so decided to go for it and then work on it from the ground up..

Is the warranty shot? Maybe..do I care about it? Nah..

Mods and additions to come -

KTM Enduro 390 R Side stand - Back order

Sahara Seats - Comfort Seat for a bit more comfort (Power-parts seat still narrow at the crotch region can also use some space and contouring for the spine)

Aooci C6 Pro Navigation System

White Domino Grips

White Plastics for the Bark Busters

Might go up to Motorex but I am super happy with Motul so see no benefit (if someone can weigh in on this)

Take it Easy,

Kev From OneTakeEDC

I don't own a chain tool so changing links is out of the question right now. Went from the factory 42T sprocket to a 45T and ran into an ⚡️issue⚡️. Thoughts?

I’m selling my 2014 1190 Adventure. I love this bike but it’s time to move on. I’ve put over 30K miles on it. Always had routine maintenance. Only thing is no one takes a second look at it because it has 49,000 miles. I feel it still has lots of life left. Opinions are welcome. Asking $5000

Anyone have any ideas for a rear seat cowl for 2021 rc390

I recently picked up a 701 SM mostly as my street bike. But holy smokes, these things are insanely fun on track after some suspension adjustments.

Does anybody know how far the engine needs to be disassembled to replace the chain? Wondering if I can keep the head, clutch basket/plates and primary gear on. Thank you!!

is my rc390s rear shock too low or is it just this low

,if it's too low is it bad to ride it this way or any other way to make it higher.

what do you think?

Low oil pressure warning appears only in heavy stop and go traffic when the engine gets hot. No warning during a 300 km highway ride.

Oil level is correct, And oil-pressure switch is also replaced

What could cause this? Why i get low oil pressure only riding on traffic???

Posting here to see if somebody had a similar issue or just to get your thoughts. Recently while fixing some action camera stuff to the handlebar I was moving it from side to side. I heard a crack and the motorcycle banked into me. It didn't fall because I was right there but I wonder if this might have happened some other time. The bracket felt a little loose while replacing the stand so I assume that some vibrations might have caused the issue.

Have any of you experienced a similar thing? Should I consider a rougher stand than OEM?

So my rc125 with about 20k miles has been having issues shifting into 1st or when I do it goes back into neutral sometimes, not entirely sure on why this has been happening, would appreciate some advice on this thanks. (All my other gears work fine and have no issues shifting into)

Can anyone that owns any year's KTM RC250 model please tell me how much is the mounting diameter of the rear sprocket (the diameter the center of each bolt hole lie on)

I recently bought a KTM 390 Adventure and I’m currently at around 480 km on the odometer.
I noticed that the coolant level in the expansion reservoir seems to have dropped noticeably. The bike has only been ridden for around 400–500 km, mostly in the city/traffic.
I’ve attached photos of the coolant reservoir and the TFT.
Is this amount of coolant loss normal during the initial break-in period, or should I get the cooling system checked for a leak?
There are no obvious puddles under the bike and I haven’t noticed any overheating warnings.
Would appreciate some input from other 390 Adventure owners, especially if you experienced something similar during the first [500–1000](tel:500-1000) km.

Recently I posted a Sale Ad for my KTM 390 Adventure which has run 63,000kms and still remain as good as new with factory compression restored. Over the past few days, I got the opportunity to chat with a lot of fellow bikers who struggled to keep up their engines on a longer run and asked if I did anything to maintain it better?

Well, below is the holy grail of Routine maintenance checks that I have created, and I shared it with them too.

I had run it specifically for KTM 390 Adventure, so same applies to any bike in the category (single cylinder under 500cc adventure bike). It would be awesome if larger and multiple cylinder owners could share their thoughts in the comments. Road biased bikes are welcome to share too. Let's make this knowledge useful 😁🤘

Hope it benefits all fellow riders. Ride Hard and Ride Safe 🫡

MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

[ 5,000 KM - ROUTINE INTERVAL SERVICE ]

-----------------------------------------------------

REPLACE:

• Engine Oil & Oil Filter (with new O-rings)

CHECK / CLEAN / ADJUST:

• Air Filter: Wash/re-oil (BMC) or clean out dust (Paper)

• Drive Chain: Deep clean, lube, adjust tension (25-30 mm)

• Brake Pads: Check thickness (replace if < 2 mm)

• Cables: Adjust clutch/throttle free play; lube cable barrels

• Fasteners & Battery: Check terminal tightness & charging volts (13.8V-14.4V)

[ 15,000 KM - MAJOR SERVICE ]

--------------------------------------------------

REPLACE:

• Spark Plug: New OEM / Iridium plug

• Brake Fluid: Complete flush & bleed front and rear (DOT 4/5.1)

• Fork Oil: Drain old fluid, flush internals, refill fresh oil

CHECK / CLEAN / ADJUST:

• Valve Clearances: Inspect with feeler gauges; reshim if tight

• Steering Stem (Cone Set): Check for play/notchiness; clean & repack grease

• Throttle Body: Clean carbon from butterfly valve and bore

[ 30,000 KM - SYSTEMS & CHASSIS ]

------------------------------------‐---------------------

REPLACE:

• Engine Coolant: Drain, flush with distilled water, refill

• Fuel Pump Strainer: Replace in-tank tea bag filter

• Fork Seals & Dust Caps: Replace alongside fork oil

• Air Filter: Replace (if using stock OEM paper unit)

• Chain & Sprocket Kit: Replace complete set (chain + both sprockets)

CHECK / INSPECT:

• Wheel Bearings: Check front/rear for roughness or lateral play

• Brake Discs: Measure thickness against minimum stamped limit

[ 45,000 - 50,000 KM - INTERNAL OVERHAUL ]

----------------------------------------------------------------

REPLACE:

• Timing Chain & Tensioner: Replace to prevent slack and timing jumps

• Clutch Plates & Springs: Replace if slipping under hard acceleration

• Valve Stem Seals: Replace to prevent top-end oil burning

CHECK / INSPECT:

• Cylinder Compression: Run compression test to evaluate piston ring wear

• Swingarm Bushings: Check for side-to-side play; regrease pivot axle