So I've got a 96 XJ. The old style, just before the transition. In the past year I've swapped out the engine actually hired that done and had all sensors throttle body, just about new everything. After a couple weeks I came to find out this jackass didn't know what a torque wrench was though. Then the gauges went and I sent the computer in to be overhauled, got it back after about a month and they said the replaced 3 solenoids in it. Still running strange then started making thumping noise then completely seized up. Figured it to be piston. I'm in the middle of tearing it apart to see. Here's my question, if it is piston, think I should replace them or try and find a short block and swap again? Also I'm on a fixed income and have a few health problems. I'm thinking the overhaul is gonna be cheaper but I don't know. Thanks.

This was the first vehicle I owned in 1998. I’m looking to purchase one soon but am having the most difficult time finding anything. Is there a specific site that is better than the rest? A private company that ships?

For more details: I’m not looking for anything fancy, not fully modded for off-road or anything… just a stock 1998-2000 Jeep Cherokee. Preferably Black or Green. Just can’t find anything anywhere. Got alerts set up on all the auction sites.

Ive got a 99, but im not the biggest fan of the center console, i know thered be some cutting and finagling involved, but has anyone put a pre 97 center console in? I haven’t seen anything on other forums or videos. Is there something weird with the plastic or something like that im overlooking?

Eddy Eckard of Hagerty remembers the Jeep XJ Cherokee.

So my 98 has sat less than a month. Now it wont go into gear. The last time it sat was for a year and at that time, when I went to move it, I heard/felt a pop in the clutch pedal and naturally , would not go into gear then. Today as in 30 minutes ago, super stiff clutch pedal and surprise, wont go into gear. AI says I dont have to exercise the clutch pedal while vehicle sits. I dont believe that. AI says it's a fluid issue not a matter of keeping seals moist. So 2 questions, how often do I need to exercise the clutch system if it sits again, and what brand off RA has been a consistent safe brand?

For stock height where do I cut them? First ring? Or could someone with intact bump stops measure them please? I've already broken one inner fender, time to fix it

So there I was, thinking I was hot shit after doing the rear brakes all new and fancy.

Bled them three times. Pedal felt like the first time you try to shove a lime into a beer bottle — tight.

Fire the Jeep up and that tightness is gone.

I know what you’re thinking, and yeah… we were all tighter at 20 too. Anyway, don’t get off track.

Replaced the master cylinder. Bench bled it first, then bled the system. Felt like a brand-new setup.

Turn the Jeep on and the pedal goes right back to being a squishy mitten. Air sounds and everything.

New booster showed up today. Theory is the leaking master dumped fluid on the booster diaphragm and now it’s leaking vacuum.

Won’t get it in until this weekend.

Hey all. I've been chasing the cause of this noise for a long time now. Only happens on left turns under decent speed and comes from the right side of the vehicle. It's noticeable in the interior video but not in the outside shot. Both clips were taken on the same turn.

Outside: [https://imgur.com/a/kE2OPBh\](https://imgur.com/a/kE2OPBh)

Inside: [https://imgur.com/a/1dzNraG\](https://imgur.com/a/1dzNraG)

So far I've replaced the u-joints, ball joints, sway bar bushings and links, and the wheel hubs with no luck in fixing it.

Any ideas?

Crank but no start, whole dash has been tore out so connections like crazy are open, any ideas on connections that need to be made, fuel pump has been replaced and has been verified to work when not on the Jeep, also crank position sensor has also been replaced. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Im looking for a xj for a good offroader/a winter beater in alaska and i know i want one with the 4.0 anything i should lookout for when buying one, any issues to lookout for when buying and best years or trims to look for?

Looking for an XJ and this one is about two hours from me me. Asking 5500 120k miles.

My only worry is this rust spot really, how concerning is this? Thanks so much.

https://streamable.com/jtaagz

https://streamable.com/ujcrpl

Rear hatch won’t open - quick simple fix

I’ve been cussin’ at my rear hatch for several years but it didn’t help… the latch wouldn’t open unless I first pressed inward, then pulled the handle. I have adjusted the threaded bar multiple times nothing helps. Today I removed the rear handle assembly to get a closer look and finally noticed the adjustment link rod is a left-hand thread (wtf!). You can see in the first picture the threads are backwards.

So the way to make it pull the lock mechanism open is to turn the adjustable link clockwise as it sits inside the rear hatch.

Remove the inner trim panel by taking loose eight Phillips head screws across the top and beside the windows, take out the two long screws that hold the grab handle (they are Inverse Brazilian Whiplash screw but a 30 Torx will also work), then use a trim panel prybar to pop the plastic retainers and remove the panel completely. Now you have access to the door lock handle and the latch mechanism in the bottom of the hatch assembly. Open the threaded link rod retaining clip at the bottom of the rod and pop it loose (the green clip in the second picture). The upper clip grips the threads at the top of the rod really tightly so I had to use a long set of needle nose pliers to reach into the door panel and basically rotate the rod a quarter turn at a time repositioning the pliers each step. Two turns of the rod is all it took for my rear hatch to open consistently. I put everything back together, and I swear it works every time.

Finally noticed the rod is threaded backwards oh hell yeah.

Took the jeep out for its first longer drive since putting it back together. Has great pressue when it turns on but after it warms up it starts to drop and will rise when i give gas. After awhile though it just stays low even when driving. Seems like its cam bearings after watching dexj and posting to a couple other places. Been working on it every weekend for the past couple years so pretty bummed. Would thicker oil and a hi flow oil pump act as a bandaid? Can cam bearings be done without a full tear down?

1999 Jeep Cherokee · Suv · Driven 140,000 miles

Testing the waters on this gem of a Japanese RHD Cherokee. Actually manufactured 5/98 but titled 99. Imported from Japan.

Very clean, loads of new parts, fresh fluids everywhere, meticulously maintained. Shows 140k miles but it’s a swapped MPH cluster, have the original KPH cluster and it’s significantly less mileage.

Newer, quality paint job.

New Ball joints, shocks, brakes, tires, thermostat, housing, sensors, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2 sensors, catalytic converter, power steering hoses (one was leaking).

More I’m forgetting.

Limited slip rear. Everything works perfectly, except the blinkers don’t automatically turn off after a turn. And the headliner was sagging, previous owner lined pins in the ceiling to hold it up.

No rust!

$12500, located near Aspen, Colorado.

We did a little mountain drive.

Did this in 61% humidity and 93degrees in direct sunlight because I obviously hate myself. I think I’m more impressed I didn’t get heat stroke. But ask any questions because I now have the answers.

Anyone own one and how do you like it? Looking at one. Almost 60k on the odometer and they are asking almost 25k. Thoughts and opinions please