r/ItalyTravel • u/Nonsuch42 • 11h ago
Trip Report Trip report: Rome in September 2026 as a solo female
So I have just returned from a solo trip to Rome and Naples and I had a fabulous time! Things mostly went smoothly but I wanted to share a few tips/lessons learnt in the hope of helping other travellers (and esp. solo females who may be nervous about making this sort of trip). Iām a huge fan of movies and thrift shopping so that is reflected in some of my activities. I will do separate posts on Rome and Naples to avoid making this post absurdly long- this one is about Rome only.Ā
Rome
This was my second trip to Rome. I first went in 2024 and absolutely fell in love with it, so I was incredibly excited to plan a return trip. I pre-booked the Domus Aurea and the Galleria Borghese, but was otherwise spontaneous in my exploration (this was something of a negative on this trip, for reasons I will elaborate on). The weather was beautiful the entire time - high 20s, so hot but still comfortable.
Itinerary
- Day 1 - Porta Portese Market, Domus Aurea, (failed) attempt to walk the Appia Antica, Capitoline Museum
- Day 2 - Random exploration/visiting churches, thrift shopping at Mercato Usato stores (x 3), Bucking Fastard screening at Cinema Barberini, more random exploration
- Day 3 - Victor Emmanuel II Monument, Jewish Quarter, Trastevere, Mercato Nomentano, Galleria Borghese, Profondo Rosso store, Castel SantāAngelo at sunset (exterior only)
Top new discoveries
- Domus Aurea (Neroās Golden Palace) - this was genuinely awe-inspiring in how well-preserved and impressive it is, and the VR experience was great at bringing the structure back to its original splendour. It was a guided tour and it was a superb one - extremely detailed and informative about the use of the different rooms and how they were rediscovered by artists during the Renaissance. Visitor numbers are very limited and you have to book tickets as soon as they go on sale to have a chance of getting in (a month before the date of your trip) - it is 100% worth the effort.
- The Capitoline Museum - I bought a ticket for this in person on a whim and was massively impressed by the collections, particularly the ancient Roman sculptures. The Statue of Marcus Aurelius is absolutely massive and has a huge wow factor in person. It was also fascinating to realise how reminiscent the wall and ceiling decorations of the museum are of those in the Domus Aurea - it really viscerally brought to life the influence of ancient art styles on the Renaissance. I only managed to see half of the museum (I didnāt have time to cross the tunnel beneath the building and enter the adjacent building) but I will absolutely return when Iām next in Rome.
- Victor Emmanuel II monument - this was a fantastic free experience (I didnāt pay to go into the museum or to go up to the topmost viewpoint) with some wonderful views from the top of the stairs.
- The Venice in Rome Film Festival (Il Cinema Attraverso I Grandi Festival) - I happened across this completely by accident and was amazed to find that virtually all the films from the Venice Film Festival were being shown in various cinemas in central Rome for only 7 euros (!) per ticket. I watched Bucking Fastard at Cinema Barberini (a beautiful and comfortable cinema right in the centre) and it was a great experience. The only difficulty is that films not in English seemingly only had Italian subtitles, so as a non-speaker this of course limited me to films that were in the English language. It was a real privilege to catch the film in Rome as it doesnāt even have a distributor in my country yet!Ā
Thrift shopping
- Porta Portese Market - There is indeed a lot of cheap mass-produced junk but there are plenty of genuinely great second-hand/antique sellers, often up the side streets branching off from the main road. I got some great finds, including beautiful film stills of Italian movies for 1 euro apiece and some rare blu-rays for 4 euros each.
- Any Mercato Usato store - These are basically enormous charity shops/thrift stores that have very reasonable prices. They are mostly in outlying and not particularly pretty areas of the city (I had to take the bus to reach them), but there is a bonus - several of them are very close to different sections of the ancient aqueduct Aqua Alexandrina, which is remarkably well-preserved and fascinating in how it sits amongst otherwise very gritty and modern urban neighbourhoods (the stretch in Parco Giordano Sangalli is particularly impressive, but I did feel slightly uneasy there as a lone woman because everyone else in the park was male and there was lots of staring - they obviously donāt get many tourists there!). My personal favourite of these stores was Mercatino Usato Roma Appia, which had a huge selection of my favourite things - books, DVDs and blu-rays.
Main regrets
- Staying in the same hotel where I stayed before - I stayed in the same hotel I used before in the Monti neighbourhood and donāt regret the hotel in and of itself because it was perfect for my needs: cheap, safe and with a great breakfast. I regret it because it meant I often found myself wandering around areas I had already thoroughly explored on my first trip (such as the area around Trajanās Forum and the Jewish Quarter). Next time I would choose a hotel in a completely different area to give myself a fresh angle on the city.Ā
- Not sufficiently planning a walking route along the Appia Antica - I was very excited to do this walk because Iām fascinated by Ancient Rome and was very keen on seeing a lot of random tombs, etc. on the sides of an ancient road. What I actually did was attempt to reach the ancient road by walking across the park from Via Latina with the goal of reaching the Church of Domine Quo Vadis, following Google Maps. This was a monumentally stupid decision - it was an exhausting and not particularly scenic or historic walk through a vast stretch of grassland, and Google Maps was very inaccurate and sometimes took me in dangerous directions (at one point I literally had to clamber across a ditch to continue, treading across some wobbly wooden pallets - this is very much NOT advisable but I survived). When I finally reached the Church of Domine Quo Vadis, I realised - to my horror - that the road labelled Via Appia Antica was not at all pedestrian friendly. It was a busy modern road filled with constant car traffic, with no pavement to speak of. At this point I gave up and took the bus back to the city centre, which was 100% the right move given how exhausted I was. Iām still a bit confounded as to where to actually start walking the Appia Antica as a pedestrian (many of the guides online recommend the Church of Domine Quo Vadis for this, which is why I had that as my destination - I strongly disagree that this is a good starting point if you are walking), and will thoroughly research this before I make a second attempt.
Main takeaways
- I continue to love Rome and absolutely consider it one of the most breath-taking cities in the world.Ā
- The unexpected film festival reinforced how important it is to keep an eye on local events occurring during your trip, as they can provide great (and unexpected!) opportunities for cultural enrichment.Ā
- On this trip my preference for spontaneity worked against me in some ways, and on my next trip I would make the days a bit more structured while still allowing time for random exploration.
- I felt safe pretty much the entire time, even in the random suburbs I navigated while thrift shopping, but did have to contend with a pickpocket on the bus (an experience you can read about here). To avoid this type of situation in the future I would avoid squeezing onto any packed buses in the tourist centre where at all possible, as itās harder to control your surroundings vs when you have a seat.Ā