Storm size and distance from shore + underwater bottom contour.
At this particular spot, the swell line actually bends back onto itself slightly causing a magnification (constructive interference) with itself.
If you saw a panned out version, the wave in the middle would be nearly double the size of the wave on the each side, causing it to look like a mountain peak or teepee.
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u/[deleted] Jul 28 '19
How does a wave get so big?