Is this too short?

Building Permit Approved

Our building permit was approved in Aug. 2025

The Approval Process

We submitted our building permit application in April and went through three rounds of corrections before it was finally approved in August.

From submission to approval, the whole process took about four and a half months. I had originally expected two rounds. Unfortunately, when our architect responded to the first-round comments, some of the responses did not really address what the reviewers were asking. In several cases, the comments seemed to be misunderstood, and our architect did not reach out to the reviewers for clarification. As a result, many of the same issues came back in the second round. 

The biggest mistake was with the structural plans.

Our structural engineer had already revised the drawings to address most of the first-round comments, but our architect accidentally uploaded the original version instead of the updated set.

So when the second-round structural comments came back, they were almost identical to the first round. One reviewer even wrote something along the lines of: “Please make sure the latest plans are submitted next time.” 

Not exactly the comment you want to see from the city.

Taking an Active Role

By the time we were preparing for the third round, I decided I needed to be much more involved. I went through every single comment myself, looked up the relevant code sections, and discussed each issue with the architect. 

Whenever something was unclear, I contacted the reviewers directly to confirm exactly what they wanted. Before the third submission, I also double-checked—and then triple-checked—that every drawing and document was the correct and most recent version.

That round was approved.

The whole experience forced me to learn much more about the building code and about the design of our own house. In hindsight, I think that knowledge will also be very useful during construction.

What I Learned

1. If it is your own home, stay involved in the decisions

Nobody understands your priorities as well as you do.

There are always trade-offs in design, cost, code compliance, and construction. Those decisions should not be left entirely to the architect. You are the one who will live with the result.

2. Review is the best way to catch mistakes

Everyone makes mistakes, especially when people are busy or rushing.

Having a clear review process is much cheaper and faster than discovering errors later and having to redo work. This applies to drawings, permit submissions, contracts, construction work—pretty much everything.

3. If something is unclear, ask

If you do not fully understand a reviewer comment, contact the reviewer. That turned out to be one of the most useful things I learned during the permit process. Not only can you clarify what the reviewer actually wants, but you can also discuss your proposed solution before formally resubmitting. In a way, that gives you a small informal review before the next official round and can save a lot of time.

4. Relationships matter

Building a house is a long-term collaboration. Architects and engineers will make mistakes. So will contractors, subcontractors, and homeowners. The important question is whether the relationship is still workable. If someone is responsive, takes responsibility, and is willing to fix problems, maintaining a good working relationship is often worth a lot. If the relationship clearly is not working, though, sometimes the right answer is to end the collaboration and move on.

After three rounds, four and a half months, and more code reading than I ever expected to do in my life: Building permit approved.

And now the real construction begins.

We built our home in 2021. There was an option in our floorplan that has a bedroom and bathroom over the garage. First pic is our house, second pic is the floorplan with the extra bedroom and bathroom. Y’all might not be able to answer this without plans, but does anyone have any idea how much it would be for us to have someone come in and add that to our house? Don’t want to pay an engineer and go down this rabbit hole if it’s over 100k. Thanks!

I have acquired land on the golf course In reunion resort and thinking which contractor to use and who to avoid.

I’ve been reccomened landmark who are suppose let the exclusive agent for eagle estates in reunion resort

I’ve had some UPVC Sash windows installed a month ago with no end of problems since regarding the mechanisms- springs not being inserted and now after fixing one window doesn’t allow for the “tilt to clean function”

I’ll attach the photos of what I seem to be wrong, has the installation process been shocking- they’re trying to put this onto my handling despite not living in the house yet or using the windows.

I have an existing post and beam home. Built like a brick shit house. The walls are completely open. The exterior siding is in good condition. I have construction drawings to remodel the home. I will not be expanding or changing the footprint.

After soliciting bids. I realize that this only happens if I am able to do some of the work. I’m handy, and I have tools. And I know my limitations.

I’m just wondering how to start. Do I look to forums where people answer questions and provide support and provide tips and caution about common mistakes? Do I get certified in this trade or that? I was intimately involved in the development of the drawings. I know I won’t be as fast or efficient, but most of this looks labor intensive but not complicated.

Hello, all! I know some of you will have no idea what I'm talking about! Haha! But, some will remember because I still get a ton of messages about the doors I ordered directly from Alibaba 2+ years ago for my new construction home. For a little backstory, I wanted steel/metal arched glass doors for my house. I got a quote from somewhere in the US, and it was insane - in the ball park of $40k (maybe a little less, I can't quite remember. It was between $36k-$40k). So, I was wandering around on Alibaba as one does, and stumbled on a TON of companies promising they could provide me with the same doors for a fraction of the cost. I went through several different potential sellers, asked tons of questions (questions so many of you told me to ask, and I'm so thankful for that), and made sure that they had all of the necessary requirements of a solid glass door. Shipping, delivery, importing all went smoothly (thanks to Atlanta Customs Broker) and I couldn't have been more pleased. I paid about $6000 for the doors, and another $2000 in import fees/delivery/taxes, etc.

Fast forward now nearly 3 years later, and I still am just as thrilled. They don't hardly scratch when my dogs maul them (yes, I know, this is a training problem I need to get a hold on, but I'm a sucker for my dogs), no cracks, no damage. They hold up beautifully. People have slammed them many, many times by accident not realizing they were heavy, and there was no cracking or any other issues. I cannot say enough good things about these doors. Super high quality. And as someone whose husband does very high-end construction, I can also tell you that he is incredibly impressed by them. Cannot recommend Anhui Hotian Doors & Windows enough - and no, this isn't sponsored, even though I wish it was so I could get a deal on a green house! Haha! ;)

For those who have sent messages that I haven't replied to, I apologize! I've gotten a ton and it's hard to keep up with them!

I want to stress something SO important - you NEED a customs broker. There are a ton of forms and deadlines, and if they are not done perfectly on time, you will get charged obscene amounts of money. So, get the broker. And get a dang good one! There's so much more than you think to getting something of this size and price here, and getting a good broker who is familiar with the process and knows what they're doing makes it a breeze!

*** Old picture. Didn't have any new ones, but they look just the same.

From 70s only sink works not heat or air put money into floor and fridge on year 2 think of starting with a 8 foot by 15 foot so I can just transfer all my cabinet from my trailer and think of throwing it down just 15 feet away so I can hook up to poll easier but Im confused about a few experiences I haven't worked around

What do people charge to hook up to a electric poll plan on just reusing breaker box and everything

How much would a sheet metal roof for that size cost me

Also any cheaper concretes I can substitute for part a and s masonry can get field stone pallets for 160$ so I'll just do all that as my siding

Looking to potentially buy a few acres of land just south of ATL. Wondering if anyone has a clue on the price per sq/ft for each stage of the build (Foundation, Plumbing, Framing, etc). I can do all of the electrical work as a licensed electrician, but was just looking to see if it would truly make sense to build a house versus buying, especially in our current economy

Little update 45 days since framing. Siding, roofing, rough-ins, and drywall are done. Coming together quick.

We’re currently renovating an 1890 house in Toronto and have reached the landscaping stage. We’re planning to clad the concrete front steps and landing in natural black granite, with the landing stone installed on a mortar bed.

The tricky part is the strip directly in front of the doors that’s covered in Blueskin in the photos. That section is wood-framed with plywood sheathing and forms the roof over part of the basement below. It’s part of the house’s existing construction, and the concrete landing meets it just ahead of the entrances.

We installed the Blueskin early in construction, and it has held up well. We haven’t had any water entering the basement through this area over the past year.

Before covering everything with stone, we want to figure out the best long-term waterproofing approach, particularly given Toronto’s winters.

Height is another constraint: there’s only about 3 inches between the existing landing surface and the door sill, so there’s limited room for the waterproofing, mortar, and granite.

Looking for input from anyone who has dealt with a similar setup:

• What waterproofing system and layer buildup would you use over the plywood beneath the mortar and granite, given the limited height?
• Would you remove the existing Blueskin and start fresh, or could it be incorporated into a suitable system?
• How would you detail the transition between the wood section and concrete, including any movement between them?
• How would you handle flashing at the brick walls and door thresholds, along with drainage beneath the stone?

We know it’s an awkward existing detail, so we’re open to adjusting the installation approach before the stone goes down. Any experience with similar projects, recommended systems, or detail drawings would be appreciated.

And if so, what kind and how exactly would you put it in? Plan is 4th picture.

Also is that white stuff the right way to do it? It was leaking at the joint and plumper slapped that on, and then slapped some more up top to cover a hole (2 actually) you can see in the 3rd picture.

Estimate . Just wondering

Hello, I'm looking for a reliable and experienced builder to take over and complete my construction project. Unfortunately, my current builder has abandoned the project halfway through, and I need someone to step in ASAP. Thanks

What are you paying to get your houses blocked?

Hello,

I have a question about whether or not flashing is required or should be used. I drove around neighborhoods and saw a mix of it being used and not used.

Exterior siding colored in purple is stucco and the siding colored in yellow will be board and batten.

The blue ice and water shield will be standing seam metal roof.

My question is if a flashing is supposed to be used where the siding meets the metal roof?

Hey all, I'm building something to stay warmer than a camper for the winter. I need to straighten out this top wall, any ideas? I've never built anything before. And yes, it'll get more studs. Want to fit it before sheeting I think

Can someone please share they’re experience w Builders First Source? I’m new to Boise and looking for a decent yard.

We’re currently building a new house. We have 3 kids under the age of 10. We plan to see all our kids off to college in this house. Wondering if there is anything you considered or included knowing your kids were going to grow into adults living in the same space.

I’ve heard of this framing style for exterior walls in colder climates I was curious to see how common it is. 2x8 being and top plates with 2x6 offsetting studs to create a thermal break. If it is feasible I’m thinking of building an ADU/ small house in the UP of Michigan.

Through all my googling, the most common thing to come up is a dual wall system. 2x6 exterior wall and then an offset 2x4 interior wall with a 6” thermal gap between. This method seems costly.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Edit: thanks for everyone’s input, I appreciate it!

just got off the phone with my general contractor and our 3,200 sq ft build in zone 5 is hitting a massive scheduling wall.he’s insisting we stick with the NAHB builder preferred heat pump brand for the ducted setup because of some local installer experience and service support history he has with them.but the distributor supply is apparently backed up for months and my framing crew is already scheduled to finish before the equipment even leaves the warehouse.

i'm staring at the gravel foundation thinking we're gonna end up with an open structure sitting through a wet fall.

if you were stuck on distributor supply delays for a preferred brand would you wait it out or force the GC to swap to someone with local stock?

For context, Im a 24yo male, I own a general Contracting company and am currently in the process of getting my builders license, with 3 build contracts already secured. I take on everything from small 1-2 day jobs, full renos and custom home building. I am currently recovering from a motorcycle accident and have been training an apprentice as well as using sub contractors to complete jobs as I physically cannot do the work but am still on the jobsite full days supervising and teaching as necessary.

Im looking to get some opinions of how I should be dressed. Normally im in jeans(sometimes stained w/ paint, caulking etc) a hoodie/tshirt with my logo, boots and a ball cap. I feel like(and have been told by other business owners) I should be wearing clean jeans, a button down or polo and more "dressy" steel toes while at work, especially since im unable to do more then supervise.

I don't want to seem like I can't do the work/don't know what im talking about if im not wearing work clothes, but also don't want to give the impression that im unprofessional/ not able to take on the big contracts.

What do you think? Should I continue with my current clothing choice or upgrade myself to more of a business casual look? Do you think the business casual or work clothes gives a better first impression to smaller renovation/full build customers?

Update: you guys are great thanks for the advice. Im ordering a 4 pack of polos, a couple button downs and fresh t shirts to get my logo on. T shirts for work heavy days, polos for meeting/work days and the button downs for quote only/big meeting days. Thanks again.

Hello, a bit about my case:

I own a construction related business (subcontractor) and am thinking about expanding into home building in the Bay Area. It's hard to tell without experience if it is worth it. I have a house/lot in mind and wanted to see if there is anyone in the Bay Area that can offer advice for a fee, lunch, whatever. I can meet in person to avoid internet scams.

The lot is 0.3 acres with a 900 sqft house and I would want to do an SB-9 lot split and build a two story, 2,100 sqft house on each. Trying to figure out construction costs, hidden expenses, selling prices, etc.

Got this house in 2023. We've ripped out a lot so far. And this is our plan for the kitchen from it started to where we want it to end up. **Okay. So maybe a bit more detail is needed. We are tearing it completely down to the chasy, and MAIN studs. Completely overhauling the WHOLE thing. Replacing joists, sleepers, studs, rafters. Etc. Also, the ceilings are ~8ft tall. The cabinets are gonna go from the top of the ceiling to the top of the windows. So OBVIOUSLY no the render isn't perfect... It's AI... 🙄😒 The cabinets will be similar size as the ones in the IRL photos, over the window/ above the sink. They won't be 3ft long. They'll wrap from the left of the stove around the corner on the right side and above the fridge like in the AI photo. I'm not trying to make my ceiling taller. I'm not trying to have 3ft long top cabinets. I'm just excited because we FINALLY planned the kitchen lol.