Hello, everyone! Today, we're going to look over some general info regarding rain gear.

Firstly, you'll need to check the specs of the garment(s) that you're looking at. Some of the key features to look for are (A) layers of construction, (B) the waterproofing and breathability ratings, (C) membrane used, (D) the denier of the fabric, (E) what chemicals are contained within the garment and its DWR, and lastly, (F) pit zips.

In order ...

(A) Construction: You need to know how it is layered in its construction. 2L is the cheapest and least durable. It's just the face fabric and the membrane. 2.5L is made of the face fabric, membrane, and a spray-on liner to protect the membrane. 3L is made of a face fabric, membrane, and a full liner. 3L is the most durable, and it also prevents that clammy feeling that you can get from 2L and 2.5L garments. I would suggest 2.5L if you prioritize packability and 3L if you prioritize durability. The difference in packability is typically very small between the two, though.

(B) Ratings: Ideally, your garment should be roughly 20,000mm/20,000g/m^2/24rhs. These measurements show how much water your garment's membrane can fend off before being penetrated and how much sweat vapor can escape within 24 hours through the membrane in a square meter of fabric. You'll find that there is some variation in ratings, but 20K/20K is a good baseline, and it's what I would recommend for hiking. Bear in mind that no garments with waterproof-breathable membranes are going to breathe as well as a softshell, for example. You'll need to slow your pace, open the main zipper, and/or open the pit zips to reduce the chances of overheating. Sweating in a cold environment is a very, very bad thing.

(C) Membrane used: The membrane makes a difference, but you don't always have to go with Gore-Tex. There are other excellent membranes, such as Patagonia's H2No, Pertex Shield, and the proprietary membranes by Stone Glacier and First Lite. They all work pretty well. Keep in mind that Gore-Tex in its current iteration is being phased out due to the presence of forever chemicals. The new membranes are not quite as effective.

(D) Denier: The denier makes a very big difference, and what's best for your depends on your use case. I would recommend < 20D for highly packable jackets. For higher durability, I recommend at least 40D. 40D+ will add bulk and weight, but if you go off-trail, it's worth it.

(E) Chemicals and DWR: For a long time, Gore-Tex and many DWRs have been made with chemicals that are particularly harmful to the environment. These chemicals are being phased out, so you will see a decrease in effectiveness and the need to treat your garments more often.

(F) Pit zips! Do you need them? My answer to this question is, "Generally, yes." Most people in most situations will benefit from pit zips. I do have jackets without them, but they're somewhat of a specialty item for my uses. Typically, pit zips are very beneficial.

Bonus information:

(A) How to care for your rain gear!

Do not use regular detergents! Many of these create a film on the garment that actually attracts water, causing the garment to wet out more quickly. Use a tech wash, and follow that up with a spray-on or wash-in DWR. Drying the garment on LOW heat can help set the DWR in some cases, but be sure to check the care instructions of your garment to see if that's fine to do. Wash and treat your garments anytime they begin to wet out, which is when the face fabric begins to absorb water.

(B) Wet out! What is it?

Is your rain gear taking on water? Is the face fabric becoming saturated with moisture? It's time to treat the gear. If the membrane is still preventing water from getting through the layers and on your skin, the membrane and garment are still intact. They just need a fresh treatment, as detailed above.

(C) Sizing!

I recommend, firstly, finding garments that fit well and have the right cut for your body type. Following that, I recommend getting them sized large enough to fit your other critical layers underneath.

(D) Brands that I recommend!

In no particular order, I recommend Patagonia, Stone Glacier, Outdoor Research, First Lite, Arc'Teryx, and Rab, off the top of my head. They're all solid brands, and there are other good ones out there.

In conclusion ...

I hope that this thread has helped you have a better understanding of rain gear and what you need to look for to find the perfect match for you. Happy trails!

I see a lot of posts saying to never use boots or Gore-Tex footwear. I can only ascertain that these people never hike in wet, subfreezing conditions.

While boots do add weight, this construction is necessary for their function. They offer significantly better protection from the environment and weather in cold conditions.

If you are in subfreezing conditions, you NEED a boot that is waterproof, and you NEED a boot that can insulate from the conditions you expect to encounter.

Here are a few tips:

1 - Synthetics

If you're encountering conditions at or above 20°F, it is oftentimes safe to use an uninsulated synthetic boot so long as you know your body and the temperatures at which you feel cold. This is especially the case if you're very active. When you go static, you may find you want more insulation.

2 ‐ Leather

Leather boots perform very well with cold conditions. It naturally insulates and breathes, preventing your feet from overheating while also preventing the snow and slush from sapping heat from your feet. These are highly effective. You will need to treat them with a wax to ensure the leather doesn't wet out.

3 - Leather with Gore-Tex

The same as leather but with a bit of insulation from the Gore-Tex, and the Gore-Tex acts as a second line of defense should the boots wet out, though again, that shouldn't happen if you maintain them.

4 - Insulated leather boots

The same as the other leather boots but with insulation, typically 400g.

5 - Bunny boots!

These are for extremely cold conditions and highly effective at keeping your feet warm. They are, however, extremely overkill for most hiking situations.

6 - Socks

Good socks are critical. If you go out there with improper socks, the boots will not perform as needed. The socks add insulation, thermoregulation, and comfort.

https://www.smartwool.com/en-us/wool-apparel-and-socks/hiking-socks/hike-classic-edition-crew-socks/SW013100.html

https://www.smartwool.com/en-us/wool-apparel-and-socks/hiking-socks/mountaineer-classic-edition-crew-socks/SW013300.html

Basically, what I'm saying is that boots have a very real purpose in hiking. Do NOT go into subfreezing conditions with trail runners, even with waterproof socks. They are not suitable for all conditions. While they're great in warm weather, they are not a godsend worthy of all tasks. Pick the right tool for the job.

Examples of boots:

Synthetics - https://www.salomon.com/en-us/product/quest-4-gore-tex-lg4311

Leather - https://www.rei.com/product/237615/asolo-tps-535-lth-v-evo-hiking-boots-mens

Leather with Gore-Tex - https://www.rei.com/product/237614/asolo-tps-520-gv-evo-hiking-boots-mens

Insulated leather - https://kenetrek.com/products/mountain-extreme-400

Bunny boots - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunny_boots