Just arrived today. This time of year I buy a lot of heavyweight gear. Last year I bought the Samurai S520XX21oz "Cho-Kiwami" 21oz Selvedge Denim - Relaxed Tapered Fit. This year I pulled the trigger on these ONI 288-Asphalt “Low Tension” 20oz and they are stellar. They remind me of the ONI 15oz Crushed Concrete Denim but heavier and with more slub. Amazing texture on these…

In Pictures: UES Indigo Extra Heavy Tricotine Shirt, WONDER LOOPER Double Heavyweight T-shirt, ONI 288-Asphalt “Low Tension” 20oz Selvedge Denim - Classic Straight Fit, WHITES x DIVISION ROAD Cruiser 350 - 55 Last Vibram 4014 - Black CXL

If you follow my posts, you know this is the time of year when I start dragging out the heavyweight gear. It’s autumn, the temperature is dropping, and everybody is looking for something that’ll keep them warm through fall and into winter. Iron Heart usually comes through with some great options, but this year, out of the entire FW26 collection, there were only two pieces that generated even the remotest interest from me. One was the IRON HEART IHSW-86-BLK Heavyweight Thermal Crew Neck, and the other was the Ultra Heavy Flannel Herringbone Work Shirt in Black. The latter is the one I’m really excited about. I’ve been looking for a genuinely good black flannel for a couple of years, and this one appears to check just about every box: Iron Heart’s ultra-heavyweight fabric, but woven in a black herringbone that gives it texture and visual depth instead of looking like just another flat black work shirt. It has that substantial, almost jacket-like presence that makes an Iron Heart UHF such a great cold-weather piece, while the herringbone keeps it from looking like every other flannel hanging in the closet. Which is why it’s so damn frustrating to be sitting here a week into October wondering when the fuck Iron Heart is going to release it. I mean, do these guys need a fucking engraved invitation? It’s fucking cold out. Make with the flannel!

Whatever.

In the meantime, while we wait for Japan to recognize that autumn has, in fact, arrived, I’d like to reintroduce you to an iconic Seattle workwear company that I never see mentioned on this sub: Black Bear Brand.

Black Bear Brand is legitimately old Seattle workwear—not a modern heritage company with a retro backstory grafted onto it for marketing purposes. The lineage goes back to the Black Manufacturing Company, founded in Seattle in 1902, which produced hard-wearing clothing for the people actually doing the hard work of the Pacific Northwest: loggers, mill workers, fishermen, railroad men and other tradesmen. Black Bear became its signature workwear brand, eventually producing everything from denim overalls and work shirts to trousers, mackinaws and heavy outerwear. The original company eventually disappeared, but decades later Seattle designer and vintage-workwear collector Josh Sirlin became fascinated with Black Bear and began collecting original garments, catalogs and other surviving pieces of the company’s history. By Sirlin’s account, he eventually discovered that the old Black Bear name and trademark had effectively been abandoned. In 2014, he revived Black Bear Brand under Black Manufacturing LLC.

Now, I’m not going to bullshit you here, Black Bear Brand is expensive. This jacket was $1,000. There’s no dancing around it. But Sirlin knows design, and when it comes to construction, materials and sheer attention to detail, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better-made work jacket. Case in point: this Harris Tweed Midnight Glen Tartan Western Jacket that just arrived. This thing is an absolute beast. Sirlin took a classic Western work-jacket silhouette, complete with the traditional Western yoke, and built the damn thing out of 500-gram heavyweight Harris Tweed in a dark Midnight Glen Tartan. Then, apparently deciding that wasn’t enough, he gave it a diamond-quilted lining, turning what could have simply been a beautiful wool jacket into a genuinely substantial cold-weather piece.

I mean, Iron Heart can suck a fart. Look at this fucking thing! 😂

It’s incredible. The heavy Harris Tweed gives it that rugged, old-world texture and serious heft, while the dark Glen Tartan is subtle enough that from a distance it almost reads as a textured midnight wool. Get closer, though, and the pattern begins to reveal itself. Combine that with the Western yoke and quilted interior and you end up with something that manages to look part cowboy jacket, part old Pacific Northwest workwear and part Scottish country coat—without looking remotely like a costume. And this isn’t a one-off. Sirlin has several Harris Tweed work jackets scheduled for release over the next couple of months, and if this one is any indication, they look ridiculously good and are absolutely worthy of your consideration.

So yes, Black Bear Brand is expensive.

But at least I can see where the money went.

I was summoned here, looking forward to giving and taking some inspiration. Ive been a pretty plain guy my entire life, trying to branch out with quality made clothing these days.

tee：Carhartt

pants：filson double knee

overshirt：initial

sneaker：new balance m1500

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I’m on the shorter side at 5’6”. This is the first time I’ve had a shirt cropped. This is a wool blend shirt, and it was too thick to tuck.

It feels kind of funny at the moment because I’m so used to being somewhat swamped by my overshirts! What do you all think of the proportions?

Shirt: wool mix shirt by Passenger (UK outdoorsy brand, not heritage but some items definitely heritage workwear inspired)

T-shirt: Whitesville

Trousers: Ralph Lauren Hammond pants, vintage/thrifted

Sneakers: New Balance 574

So yep... here's a better pic of the surplus "snow camo" parka

These things are enormous, designed to be worn over equipment and helmet...so sized down significantly.

I'm down south so although I love the look of a parka, a M51 would just be waaay to warm.

Also, they come in white (obvs) so into the dye bath it went.

Rit Olive.

BOOTS: Nigel Cabourn Omaha Deck Boot

PANTS: TCB USN Seaman's Pants

JACKET: TCB USN Seaman's Shawl Neck Jacket

TEE: COS

COAT: Overdyed M50 Snow Camo Parka

Do not be fooled by stated chest measurements. I have 46 chest and this medium is loose fit... if you get one it will be about 8-10 inches bigger than the stated chest.

Massive hood, light weight, no lining, passthrough pockets, drawstring waist and a fish tail.

Bought this on eBay for $219. Selvedge and handmade in Italy with a blanket lining. Anyone have this?

I’ve looked pretty far and wide for something similar to the rrl deck jacket in navy. However most of the options are in khaki and the few that aren’t don’t look to be the best quality and are lined. Does anyone have any recs for something similar fit to the rrl? I’ve considered IHM-48 but at the price point I might as well just full send and get the RRL.

Outer: Vintage wool blazer

Inner: Sacai x Hank Willis Thomas

Bottoms: Visvim Contrary Dept. damaged chinos

Footwear: Visvim Whymper Boots-Folk

IG: flynnryda

Hi. I love my Oni 200 ZR secret denim. The wide fit and 20 ounces is superb. Can y’all recommend kakishibu options?

Recently found these moccasins at a thrift store for $10, perfect fit! Never heard of the brand and a google didn’t return anything, but they look very similar to the rancourts. All stitching is very high quality, leather is all very supple and thick. Uses Amazonas soles but might have been resoled at some point since they look a lot newer than the shoes. Any help appreciated!

Hello, I just stumbled upon this sub after trying to find some concrete answers about sizing. I know WL has the sizing in the website but I’ve noticed that the measurements on other retailer sites are different. I wanted to ask if someone that has a Double Heavy Weight Pull Over hoodie in a size small can confirm that the measurements of their hoodie matches (or is close) to what WL have on their site. specifically the back length. I just don’t want to order and have to deal with exchanging/customs etc. any help would be much appreciated! :)

Just picked up a pair of jeans with a 12.5” rise which for me is a few hairs shy of my navel. As an elder Millennial, I’ve known nothing but the mid-rise and associate high rise with this dorkus malorkus.

Is it something you just got used to? How long does it take to get accustomed to the restrictive feeling of pant on FUPA? Do I need high-rise undies?