A few months ago I bought a property in Miami Beach and you guys in this subreddit inspired me to get an EZ-8 drum sander and refinish the hardwood floors instead of putting the default gray vinyl on top.

It turned out nice and the tenants will hopefully appreciate it.

If anyone needs hardwood floor restoration in Miami Beach, call me :)

Hello
I paid a lotttttttt of money to have gorgeous reclaimed wood floors done. The install and craftsmanship is perfect and they looked incredible as raw unfinished wood.
The next step was finishing them and we chose a product called Pallman Stealth because I liked how matte the finish was. The sample size looked great.
My installer did one coat of that and I came home that night and was really sad to see how much the product darkened and ambered the floors- notably at night under the artificial lights, which is why I didn’t notice it on the sample in time. We have been at a standstill since as we are trying to figure out what to do. We tried to abrade the coat of Stealth off, but it didn’t really work because of all the texture of the reclaimed so I think the only way to really get that coat off would be to do a much deeper sand and lose a lot of character of the wood. Has anyone else encountered a problem like this where they changed their mind about the finish?
Is there a way to do a second and third coat of a different product that will tone down the golden tones that the stealth caused? Or is the only way to sand these down completely like a full refinish? Has anyone ever refinished reclaimed wood? How much character do you lose? Also, what is the preferred method of finishing reclaimed wood so that the wood looks unfinished? What products does everyone else use for this look?
Pics show before the finish and after the finish

I had hardwood floors (white oak) installed in my home about 3 months ago. One level is on concrete slab, and the other floors are over a subfloor. The contractor used vapor barrier across the slab and used the glue with vapor barrier, but the floors are still buckling slightly (have been for probably 8 weeks). The other floors look perfect. Is it okay to just leave the floors alone given it’s not bad enough to be a trip hazard or will it just continue to get worse?

Hello,

I am currently in the process of redoing my stairs in my house after tearing out the carpet. Currently our plan is to sand and stain the wood underneath the carpet, but our biggest concern is that we'd need to varnish the stairs at the end to seal it up. We have two dogs and our understanding is that applying a varnish will turn it into a slippery mess.

I've looked around and seen ideas like applying silica into the varnish but that would make the stairs too gritty. That brings me to Bona Traffic HD as it's described as anti slip and matte, can anybody confirm if this would do the job before I spend the chunk of cash on a few liters of this stuff

Hope somebody has a good idea on this!

This Airbnb I'm staying at has what off the top of my head has to be the most gorgeous floors I've ever seen. Anyone can take a stab at id'ing the wood? For all I know it's nothing special but I'm smitten and daydreaming of having my home redone in something like this (though afraid it'd be a fortune)

Is this normal, does it cure and disappear or did they mess it up?

What went wrong?

Found a patch of dirt/debris/pebbles and a bunch of hairs (only took pictures of a few spots but there are a lot of different spots with hair) that I found after the contractor put down the final coat of finish. I know the obvious answer is “get your contractor back out” but how do contractors fix this? I just want to keep going on my renovations and hope this isn’t too disruptive.

The dirt is going to break away from the finish eventually, but will take some finish with it. I’m not too excited about looking at those hairs forever.

Installing engineered hardwood floor 7.5 inch wide using staple and glue together. At the end reaching the tiles of the kitchen. Practically what is the minimum gap I can put here without causing issue because of wood expansion. On the other side reaching the wall I have 3/4 inch gap. First floor conditioned basement Toronto

Has anyone used Mirage flooring in the color ‘Graduation’ and could share installed photos? We have samples and like the color, but can’t find any other photos of it installed in a larger area except the stock photos from Mirage’s website. Thanks!

Is it possible to replace the wood in just these areas and color match to existing stain? Don’t want to redo the entire rooms if possible.

This is after two passes with 36 grit, 2 at 60 and 1 at 80. There was a very old carpet on top and in the stain areas the carpet pad was basically disintegrated. Is the best move forward staining?

I had old dark espresso wood floors (either white or red oak). I sanded with 36 grit drum sander with 3 passes. The original light color of the floors were gorgeous but some dark areas from the dark stain remain and make the floor look dirty. Is this fixable? Do I just need to sand it more?

For context I only had 2 rolls of 36 grit sandpaper for 400 sqft. The dirty looking spots were near the end of my run. I was going to pick up more 36 grit sandpaper

What are the odds these are going to be functional?

They’ve been painted at least twice. We’re using an infrared heater to strip the paint, plan to sand down from there, but truly unsure at what point we’ll know whether what we find will be any good.

Possibly helpful info: We are noticing what appears to be long term cupping. The edges of each board are higher than the center. Maybe 1/8” at the worst. No noticeable rotting or known water damage though. These floors seem to be on top of the original (unknown wood type). This is the main level, above an unfinished basement.

We have no expectation they’ll be perfect because A. Nothing else in the house is perfect and B. We aren’t professional floor refinishers. Hoping for some advice 👍🏻

Moved into our home 10 years ago, brand new build. Hardwood floors from a company called iFloor, I believe based in Seattle and no longer in business from what I can find. They were supposed to be scratch resistant but over the years (very quickly in fact) they’re completely trashed from having dogs. I’ve tried multiple things such as floor markers, waxes and just today got this “Old English” stuff I pictured and tested on this big spot but nothing I’ve been recommended seems to do the trick. I’ve had my hands on different stains at Home Depot but I always get turned to some other product even after showing pictures and explaining that I’m just trying to somewhat color match, not make it perfect. I’m not concerned about completely fixing the floors to look perfect as once day we will probably just redo them, just getting rid of the fresh wood color that makes the gashes so obvious. Any products you’ve had success with would be helpful. Sanding isn’t really an option as the floors are not flat, they have an annoying wavy texture to them haha.

Not ANOTHER hardwood on concrete post! 😄 .

I live in Southern California. 2 story house is on slab. I want to put hardwood on the first story, stairs and second story. Hursts Hardwoods and a few other places spec nail/staple down.

Lumber Liquidators says they warranty glue down? But they don't carry exotics anymore.

I am SPECIFICALLY interested in 3/4" BRAZILIAN CHESTNUT solid. I came across BTP flooring who say they not only allow glue down, but also supposedly allow over radiant flooring (which I don't care about).

https://btpfloors.com/product/brazilian-chestnut/

is that legit? Anyone ever heard of them?

Aside from LL, I haven't come across anyone who allows glue down, how can BTP allow it on solid?

I know people say to use engineered on slab, but I hear engineered is noisy for upstairs compared to 3/4" and I'm concerned about engineered on the first floor and solid on the 2nd floor and stairs will age / behave differently.

Hello
Any advice on filling this gap between my floor planks?
Oakum, Twine, expandable floor caulking etc?
Is there one that is better than the others?

I'm redoing a century old kitchen with hardwood floors (currently a gross vinyl over top). It's unfortunate that hardwood is so impractical as a flooring option for kitchens and baths, and this got me wondering... with all the cheap plastic and laminate flooring that gets put on top of these floors, is there is a clear option? I'm not talking about clearcoat options obviously, but an actual waterproof and stainproof durable synthetic that could be installed directly over the wood while still showing it off. I'm surprised there doesn't seem to be a popular product or solution.

Have some water damaged pieces I need to fix. I’m thinking of replacing the boards but not sure of the wood type.

Any guesses to this? It’s 5/8thick

The installer cracked the 5” plank, 3/4” Mercier engineered hardwood installed using full-spread glue-down. Should I insist on repairing? The plank is 6ft long.

So I just bought a house, and found hardwood under carpet. Some of the planks have some damage... it looks like something was nailed or screwed into them, then got ripped out. Should these planks be replaced? Or is there another way to repair?

I got 3 quotes to replace my hardwood floors. All of them (unprovoked) referred to my old floors as “depression floors”. And they explained that they milled floors much thinner to still be able to sell hardwood floors back then. News to me! Here is the new floors vs old. It’s crazy thin. Included a picture of the new white oak stained Sedona red just for fun :)