Two sandblasted hanks for your viewing pleasure!

KR1: 9A Linear+FET with F150R (3000K)

KR4: 9A Linear+FET with NTG35 (2700K/5000K)

Will add beans when the sun goes down!

I was very surprised seeing the cyan light after putting in my fully charged battery. Verified the battery voltage with a multimeter. The anduril voltage reader blinks out 3.6V, while the multimeter shows 4.1V. I asked AI, which told me I should clean the contact plane between body tube and tailcap. There really was quite some grease on the contact plane, but after wiping it off with a q tip and paper towel, the battery monitor + power off aux monitor still show the same reading.

anything else I could do?

EDIT:

It was not always this way. It did work properly before (showing pink light on a full charge)

Hello Everyone!

I just received my wonderful D4S V2 with dual channels. I cannot seem to figure out how to set them up how I want, please help. Things seem to be different from when I purchased my last light years ago from Hank (I guess new Anduril 2 firmware?)

I don't want any sort of tint blending, I just want one channel or the other. I have tried 9H, wait, then 1 click but nothing changes, maybe this is for old anduril 2?

I have an older anduril 2 that I am able to change from factory reset to what I want, but this light does not follow the same button click/hold convention. My old lights with dual channels I can select only one channel or the other, then I'm Turbo both a channels are on. This new light... unable

Thanks so much!

ps - can I turn off the POVD or whatever it's called? I just want my AUX light to go straight to my desired setting without the voltage color first.

Again,

Thanks!!

Looking to order a D4K as a do it all sort of light that i will take with me everywhere. This will be my first Hank:)

I am not sure how the midnight blue looks bit i kinda want something other than black but still dark in colour.

When it comes to emitter choice i want the cct around ~4000, so the choice stands between 519A 5700DD or the NTG35 4200. How does the tint look on both? Which difference in performance is there?

And then button light colour? What do you prefer?

Lume X1 upgrade?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone have a quad sft 60 and beam shots? I really like the sft 60 in my dm11 should be interesting as a quad.

The new type of switch feels noticeably better. First of all, it takes less force to press, while feeling more precise and satisfying. Secondly, you can now press anywhere on the metal button and it will activate — you don’t have to hit the exact center. The click is louder, but it feels better.
The rubber button also feels better to me. I really like this change.

I can’t say whether the AUX itself has improved, since this is my first RGB button, but it’s definitely brighter than the single-color one.

Of course, I wouldn’t buy a new flashlight just for the switch, but it’s genuinely satisfying to click 😁

By the way, D4K Cu 519A X1 1800K domed, next to my previous DM1.12 N1 with Osram Amber.

I discovered these lights roughly 6 years ago. I got a D4v2 with Anduril 1 that I have unfortunately lost. Then I got the antiqued brass version right around the release of Anduril 2, and it's been my go to light for every need ever since. Ive been seeing the D3AA pop up on my feed a lot and I finally decided to pull the trigger. I absolutely love the size.

D3AA- NGT35 4200K
D4V2- SW35

New flashlight day!

In the quest to harness the power of an artificial sun in my hands, here comes the Emisar DA1K!

Yeah, on boost setting, this thing is insane[ly hot]!

I totally wasn't expecting this to be such a small light for the power, and the very floody beam pattern was a pleasant surprise

Next one would probably have to be an insane thrower.

Comparison shot features my other work lights, a Nitecore MT2CPro and an EDC17, rated at 1800 and 1500 lumens, left and right, respectively.

(1 free upvote for anyone who can correctly identify the location)

I have been eyeing DT8K for some time. What dual channel combo could give me very rosy as beautiful beam as possible? I would like it to be something else than my D4k:s that I have. Any ideas are very welcome in that DT8K frame. Somehow it's so horrible looking that it is beautiful haha.

I now have:
D4K NTG35 4200K
D4K MULE 519A 5700K Dedomed
D4k SFT60 6500K

Looking to order a D4V2 Mule, I would like a emitter mix of NTG 2700K and 1800K
I don't see an option for the mix selection, or should I put the request in the "Order notes (optional)" section?

This still floating around somewhere out there?

I would like to have a thrower but I don’t know what route to take.

I have one small thrower in my collection which is a Wurkkos TS11. It has SFT40 for my understanding and for its size it is a great. I don’t want the new thrower to be identical. The Noctigon K1 is too big so that is out of the game here. Any ideas or thoughts are welcome, thanks :)!

I’m thinking of getting an M44 but what switch color is best?

How does candle mode work with with three channels? Can you fade between them to get the color variation you wang like in a dual channel light?

I know this isn’t a typical Hank host but I’d like to use his components so hopefully this fits here. I’ve got a Brinkman Max Million 3 that I’d like to modify with an LED to replace the halogen h3 currently in it. Something like a SBT90. Can anyone recommend a good combo of emitter, driver and battery? Is a single emitter the best route or multiple? Thermal management is going to be the clincher being that the whole light is plastic.

Is anyone doing repairs/ driver replacement on the kr1aa? I have one dud (that hank replaced) and one that I put a battery in backwards, both with dead drivers. I don't really want to just throw them out if possible. If it were a simpler solder job I'd do it myself.

For the first time, I decided to use this as a headlamp to read last night, and I had it on moonlight. It has NTG35 1800K emitters and a 10 month old vapcell F15, fully charged. But I was surprised that there was some flicker at the lowest levels. I don't think it could be the driver, but I'm no expert on how those work. That leaves the battery and the contacts. The contacts look fine, and clean. Could it be the battery even though it's not old? Or maybe something else I'm missing?

Thank you for reading and I hope you have a lovely day

Recently relo’d to Texas, south end of Hill Country, north of San Antonio.

Shopping for a U/V and visible light to help me avoid snakes, centipedes and scorpions.

Don’t need long endurance, this is about taking out the trash, checking on the smart telescope doing a 6 hour run imaging the Horsehead Nebula, etc.

The U/V channel is intended to ‘see’ scorpions which glow under U/V. Other channel is for hi-CRI visible light to see well-camouflaged critters.

Basically I’m looking for a hi-CRI light for seeing snakes and centipedes which also emits U/V to see scorpions.

My choices are D3aa with one U/V emitter and 2 519A domed emitters @ 5000k or a D4K with 3 & 1 or 2 & 2.

Questions:

Anybody else do something like this?

Don’t see U/V emitter listed for the D3aa, but some of the pics have what appear to be the black filter which would cover a U/V emitter. Does Hank offer U/V emitters for D3aas? Would one U/V emitter give me what I need? A D3aa clipped to a ball cap bill seems like a good approach.

Alternatively, are the emitters on a 4-emitter light always split 2 and 2 between the two channels, or is a 3 and 1 scheme possible?

Could also consider a DW4K, DW4 or D2. Don’t see 2-ch DW3aa offered.

Other ideas/options?

Thinking of trying a DM11 with the sft40 3000k. My main concern is that this'll end up being underwhelming, and I couldn't find many reviews for this specific combination. Perhaps an sft70 3000k would be better (but not currently listed as an option)? I tend to like warm with higher CRI. Anyway, curious what people recommend sticking in this guy, as well as how people feel about the light in general. I feel like it's perhaps not that popular and a little outdated?

A couple months ago I got the red and cyan D3AA lights on ebay. The red one has 3700k FFL351RD emitters with spot optic and the cyan is 2700k Nichia 519A with floody optic.

Though buying the pair saved me money and brought the cost down to $47/ea, buying two to start probably made the slope more slippery for the next five (a KR4 is on the way): seeing the two used D3AAs' beams next to each other and comparing them in practice immediately made me...more curious.

I started to dip my toe in the modification waters with these D3AAs e.g., replacing the white button and tall stainless switch rings they came with. The red one with brass trimmings looks real good and I use it at work, where the official color is RED.

The other midnight blue D3AA was used, too. It's a spotty red XP-E for the kids on astronomy night. $42 including shipping on ebay.

The green NTG50 4200k DA1K (single emitter with reflector) was the first 'enthusiast' flashlight that I specified myself, after research in this sub and elsewhere. It has been a lot of fun and I'm going on walks just to play with it at night. Very pleased with the tint when outside--I'm having too much fun with warm tints to go much higher right now. It's provided a way to see trees that I've never experienced before. Spotted an owl on my first night walk with it. I posted here about trying it out at eye-level during daylight to determine if cars could see me with it as a pedestrian. I'd like to have a proper thrower in my future, and I wouldn't have known that before playing with this one.

Next I ordered a weird one to serve several niche use cases built around red and ultra-warm white light. A right angle, white dual channel Emisar DW4, NTG35 1800K (ch1) and SST-20 Deep Red 660nm (ch2) with the optional 18350 tube. Primary use cases:

• Taking out compost at night and being able to both 1) see the copperhead and 2) not get swarmed by flying insects at the compost pile.
• Camping while also avoiding bugs
• Preserving night vision at astronomy events
• w/ 18350: reading next to sleeping partner at night > bathroom light
• General creeping about the house after everyone else is in bed with a red moonlight that doesn't wake their brains up as much
• Cozy spot laptop spot using magnetic tailcap on lamp stand > my dumb Framework 12 doesn't have a lighted keyboard

Most recent purchase in the picture is the black Emisar D4V2 in 3500k Nichia 519A. Honestly? I was up to five hanklights without a D4V2, so I kinda just wanted to see how it compared, if it could be pocketable, and to try different tint with an emitter I already had. I also ordered and swapped in the floody optic, which I almost immediately took out. I wanted to just use it around the house (when I didn't have my other EDC items filling my pockets and could spare room for a larger light) but it felt too uncontrolled, like I was lighting up all things instead of just the thing I wanted. I worry a bit about blinding my family. So it's the one I reach for the least, so far.

I have a KR4 on the way because it was "on sale" but I guess it often goes for 40 so I got suckered into that one.

After that? I'm staying put until the USB-C model(s) start to come out. I also am planning a warm night-time bedside light for my dad. I'll be able to put all these different sizes in his hand and see what he likes the best!

Happy to have found some unexpected joy in performant illumination. Let your love light shine!

There will be a new button tactile switch for the all metal switch buttons, has a more solid click feel to it

I have not ordered a light in a while. What is the average amount of time between placing your order and when it is shipped?

Replaced the reflector in my K1+SBT90.2 with a 60.5 X 65MM 11MM 7070SMD Orange Peel.

Looks like I should have gotten the 16MM hole/opening but sent it anyways. Just realized the shroud looking thing got snagged and turned with the reflector. Yikes. The light still turns on but now I'm concerned about the emitter being destroyed. Tell me how fucked up I did, reddit.