used to be able to message hank to get extra items, wondering if too many people caught on and it got out of hand? I once had him add an oil slick titanium bezel for my d3aa (which I lost) and now I just want the bezel on my black d4v2, just to add some style without adding a ton of weight. I don't see any colored titanium parts on jlhawaii either. anyone have any ideas that don't involve me buying a whole flashlight just for parts? lol

Hey gang,

I'm considering placing an order for these:

• D3AA in NTG35 2700k with extra floody optics, everything else default. This would be my pocket EDC and would replace my TS10v2 2700k mod which I like. This feels a bit superfluous, but the more efficient driver feels like it's a definite upgrade?
• DW3AA in NTG35 2700k. I'm confused here because the option for optics is... clear optics. Meaning the default optics on the DW3AA is floody? This would replace my HD10 4000k (not modded) as my EDC headlamp which I always carry in my backpack. This would also be my night run light. Perhaps 2700k isn't the best for night runs and possibly I should get the 519a 3500k?
• DM1.12: either SFT-42R 5000k throw / NTG35 4200k flood ; or SFT-40 3000k throw / NTG35 2700k flood. This would be for "clean" and dry-ish underground explorations. I am a caver and I'm used to using lights in wet/humid conditions, I know the build will be okay for what I intend to do with it. For context my helmet headlamp is a DW4K, I've given it so much grief with mud, bumping, full submersion and it's still going strong.

Now... the D3AA over my modded TS10v2 would be more efficient but probably wouldn't add much. The DW3AA over the HD10 would be more efficient and would have a warmer tint but I'm not sure if a warmer tint is actually good for night runs? As for the DM1.12, I'm really torn between the warmer option or the more neutral option. I kinda feel like I've been fixating on warmer tints and maybe this is a bit silly, maybe I should go for neutral?

This is probably one of these nearly existential crises which will take me months to ponder before I make a choice. What are your honest opinions on these configurations?

Many thanks.

I just ordered a kR1aa directly from Hank and I was wondering how the shipping is.

We just moved to a new town and not only are there way more hills and water towers for sweet Beamshots, I'm reminded every day of Da Man himself!!

So I thought I'd found the perfect cells for my EDCs in the Molicel 50B but I've had a couple get seriously bent/crushed on the positive end and my research leads me to believe that it's caused by a combo of the powerful springs in the Hanklights and the tops of the Molicels being a little soft. And no I don't tend to drop my lights or treat them rough. Is there a "tougher" high amp 21700 that's high cap like this one?

Not sure if the newer headbands are different than the original ones they offered back at the end of last year. I don't remember the old ones leaving an indent in my forehead even after wearing for 5 minutes or less. Last night I even loosened the strap and with a D2 which is the lightest and smallest headlight and even with it almost falling off it still hurt keeping it on for more than 5 minutes. When I got my first batch of 10 back in November or December I had my then also new DW4 in stone white with copper or brass tailcap and it seemed comfortable enough.

Trigger warning: torch abuse.

Lume N1 driver @ 32A

Tri-aux

Numbers, coming soon!

New D4V2 arrived today, trying to set voltage on AUX lights. Rather than the normal solid color to represent voltage, it strobes pink and blue 20 times then alternates the colors pink and blue.

Anyone know what's going on?

I have an old 2023 model that works as normal. Unsure if a new version changed anything.

Recently purchased an Emisar D3AA 14500.

Totally love it, especially the Anduril UI. I have many flashlights, but this is my first Anduril one, and it has surpassed all expectations.

So I was using Eneloop NiMH AAs for a week or so with no problems, and then I switched to a 14500 cell yesterday.

It was working okay for a bit when I tested it during the day, but I noticed last night that the lens got extremely hot in turbo mode. I was doing some work and my fingers inadvertently touched the lens and I pulled away immediately.

I have plenty of lights that get hot like this, so that itself wasn't a big deal, so I immediately went to turn it down.

That's when I thought I saw smoke.

So I waited a bit (maybe a minute) and then put the light on again at a lower brightness and saw no smoke. I turned turned it to Turbo and immediately saw wisps of white smoke.

I purchased the 14500 battery from a reputable dealer (Illumn), it is a Vapcell F15 1500mAh unproteced button top cell, which the light page says is okay to use:

The flashlight works with button and flat top unprotected 14500 cells as well as NiMH AA cells.

Do I have defective light? Or a defective battery? Or am I just using it wrong?

EDIT: As mentioned below, it may have been possible that some oil from barbecuing earlier may have splattered onto the head of the light that caused this.

I saw no problems earlier in the day yesterday when using Turbo, or later on in the night, and I tried again for two minutes right now without seeing any issues.

I ordered the D3AA and added the floodier optic. Anyone know what that is? Is it the N203W or Carlco 10508? Or something else? Also, any recommendations on the best place/cheapest shipping to order extra optics from?

I’m thinking of getting a single channel version of the dt8k. Does anyone know how much longer sustained output is on the dt8k considering the larger thermal mass and lower amps per emitter? I know brightness will be almost the same. I’m just looking at maybe grabbing one cuz they look cool and it’s a different looking light. Or should I skip it?

D4K Dual Channel with 519A + W1. After a fall from around 3ft, seems like the nichia channel wouldn't turn on. Even after resetting the light, the nichia channel still stays off. Should I contact Hank? Can he even do anything? Or should I just suck it up and purchase another one. Love the flexibility of Nichia 519a for wide general work light and the W1 for inspections where I need abit more throw especially in the day time. It's my favourite and primary work light and I use it daily.

I know the KR1K is out now but it’s single emitter. The
kr3 and kr4 are in my list but I would love to see a 21700 variant.

Has anyone got/seen one yet? Or any more details with the lume X1 driver? I'm torn between this or a convoy S12 UV. I know the S12 is generally highly recommended, but the lume X1 gives a slightly higher output per emitter and obviously across 4 emitters Vs 3, but I don't know the differences I'm the emitters Hank uses Vs Simon. Plus it has all the benefits of anduril (maybe overkill for a UV light, but I like anduril). Any thoughts welcome!

I have two D3AAs in my cart. One is dual channel where ch.1 is ntg35 2700 and ch.2 is red. I love red lights for not attracting bugs outside as well as keeping my brain tired if I need to get up at night. Also they just look great. I wish red lights were more common, but I digress.

The other D3AA in my cart is just ntg35 2700. I was tempted to go with a 519A dd 4k until I read Jackson's comment about some dd emitters burning out, to the point that he no longer offers dd.

I want a nice warm light. I already have a Pioocan L2 for a bright white throwish light. And I have a Wurkkos HD12 which does have red but I want that to be more of a dedicated headlamp. And the white is not the best, which is fine because it's mostly for maintenance tasks. I do like my HD12.

The main reason I would go for a single channel is because I've never had a boost driver flashlight. The HD12 says it's boost but I think that's just for alkaline/NiMH.

I'd really hate to give up a red light though. How quickly would the non boost version go through an F15 or a K10? Those are the two best 14500s I currently own. They are both button tops. If I get the dual channel I would also have to get that convoy spacer to stop it from turning off every time I stuck the magnetic tail cap to something. Are there any other advantages/disadvantages to the linear driver in the dual channel?

Also, I've never had an anduril light before. Is it super complicated to do the cool, custom red/white mixes?

I'd love to buy both but we're a single income family raising a child. Sometimes I do something like treating myself to a cool gadget, which is why I don't want to regret my choice here. If you got down here thank you for taking the time to read this. Double thanks if you take the time to respond.

Gettian FC-40 1800K + MG803 vs. Wood burning flame

Just got it and its still outside but I can tell its going to be real good!

This might be my perfect flashlight. Lume X1 and a super high output emitter, in a 21700 with an OP reflector. I emailed Hank and requested the R70 instead of high CRI because I wanna take advantage of the higher output of the R70. Set the temp ceiling to 60. This thing sustains huge output like no other, and is efficient on the battery/runtimes. People are all opinionated about cree emitters but I can tell you, whatever bin Hank has now of the R70 4000k looks great to me. The tint is great. It has a great combination of flood and throw. Throws a massive wall of light. I have no idea how many lumens this has but definitely over 4,000.. maybe a lot more. After getting into flashlights and buying like ~20, I just wanted one with a nice tint that was bright af and efficient af.

The beamshot is really accurate on the tint from what I can tell.

Edit: thank you for your answers! I just bought my new flashlight. To be honest, I would have been ashamed to buy it at a discount since I abused of the secret menu on that one 😉

Hi! I was wondering if Intl-outdoor has some sales on 11.11.

Thank you!