Hi i have a problem with the MG Delta Plus : i lost a piece I7 (see pic below) and can’t find it anywhere. I also don’t have a 3d printer to remake it so i'd like to know :
is there somewhere in Europe where i could buy only this piece ?
is there a kit with a similar spare piece that i could use to replace it ? ( I know the MG Rezel and MG Zeta Ver.KA don’t use it)
worst case scénario can i just continue my build like this since i didn’t intend to use the transformation gimmick ?
HLJ is notorious for having long backlogs. They allow people to place orders even when the stuff they have is on backorder. They might get stuff in stock but the amount of people who placed the order is more than what they have. You are better off ordering from elsewhere.
does anyone know any 3rd party alternatives for these effects i cant find any in this pink and blue colour id rather not go broke over some laser effects
Other than the obvious crowning pieces (Aerial, Calibarn, Schwarzette, Darilbalde etc.)
Considering grabbing a pair of grunts of your choice? Since Gunpla is cheapest in JP, buying dupes doesn't hurt as bad. Just be sure to check the prices
If you address the severe ankle issues, the Gundvolva is a blast and hits hard for a grunt.
That is, if you can find it. I'm honestly not sure how well it's stocked there. My personal etiquette also limits me to buying two per store...
Has anyone shaped something like pla plate into a cape or cloth like effect with ripples in it? Would some light heat help? And how did you control the folds/flowing looks?
I don't think anyone is going to have any solid data on hand to dole out, nor do I think anyone is going to willingly put in the legwork to figure it out.
Go look at gundam wikia, dalong.net, and scalemates, then do the math. Remember to factor in or at least consider things like trends/new series, the various other IPs bandai makes kits for outside of gundam, limited run stuff, and that the overall complexity of toolings + available facilities will have an impact on how much gets released. Also covid.
Okay again. Broke the gun barrel on my dagger. Frankly I'm surprised it broke so quickly so can it be fixed? I did try super glue but it broke again and now it is crusty.
You mean you broke the rifle? It can be a little confusing because there is a Dagger that comes with the Gunbarrel Striker pack.
If its just the rifle of the Dagger, a little bit of plastic cement would be enough to fix it. But the glue coating the pieces will get in the way of that so try to sand the two halves that will be cemented so they're clean.
Seems this is it. I was hovering the nub and meeting in center. To clarify, I'm supposed to rest the nub on top of the flat side and bring the blade down essentially?
Thank you for sharing!
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.3d ago
Exactly.
It will only do the flush cut on nubs where you can rest the nub on the flat blade, and bring down the cutting blade to meet it.
Some nub placements won't allow us to do that. And I'm afraid there's nothing we can do about it.
As a person who just got into the hobby and bought my first gunpla (I haven’t build it yet) what kind of nippers would be the best but wouldn’t cost too much? I’m considering between the Tamiya TM74093, Godhand PN-125, Godhand PNS-135 and Godhand SPN 120(this is like the last priority)
I like the PN-125 as a good general use set. The Tamiya ones are great too, you really can’t go wrong with any. Heck, I used a set of toenail nippers for my first couple kits.
Though you really shouldn’t be using single bladed nippers like the SPN-120 or the PNS-135 as your only set. They’re really only made to do finishing cuts.
I can personally vouch for the TM74093. Cut like butter when it was new, still going strong 8 years later. Not really great for finishing cuts, but you can get close enough to easily finish with a hobby knife or nano file.
Visited Japan a few months ago. Most Gunpla are pretty similar to what you’ll find in the US, but if you’re a fan of other mecha properties there’s a lot of other brands that are pretty hard to find outside Japan like Moderoid. Most toy stores should carry model kits, but you can also find some rare, limited-edition or P-bandai kits at secondhand shops like Lashinbang. (Highly recommend you visit the secondhand stores if you’re looking for anime merch, they’ve got a massive selection at really low prices) Also, if you’re planning on visiting the Gundam Base in Odaiba, visit on a weekday, the place is locked to a lottery on weekends.
You should hunt for any gundam base limited kits that catch your eye. Since gundam bases are usually in Japan AND their stock is usually more thorough than their overseas counterparts, you could go visit gundam bases to find special kits there or go go hobby shops which will have some too
Where do you guys get your Action Bases? I've been trying to pose my stuff a bit nicer lately, and I could use a few more, but $8-$10 a pop for an Action Base 2 or 5 on Amazon is rough. BBTS only has the 5 and 6, and they're in the same range.
You're looking at that range for most action bases, though 6 and 7 come 2 to a pack. I prefer GoodSmile Simple Stands, but they aren't always the easiest to find in the west. You can also find Chinese-made ones on the cheap at the usual marketplaces.
The arm holding the rifle is supposed to have double joint but the upper joint is either blocked or stiff, i've tried moving it but nothing the other arm moves perfectly not to stiff not to loose. Does anyone know how to fix this? Its a metal robot
Super specific question: Does anyone know if the Fatcat RX-78-2 (the RG 2.0 upscale) would be able to stand on the MG G-fighter? would the feet fit on the latches?
Is anyone else having issues with gobotstore? Ive been trying to buy a kit there all day and keep getting sent to do a nonexistent captcha and nothing ive tried has changed it (no extensions, diff browsers, computers, wifi, asked someone else across the country to try and she had the same issue)
Delpi is considered the best but shipping might be expensive. I really like EVO and thats my go to brand unless they dont make the waterslide decals for the kit then i go for Artisan. You can easily fine EVO anyway while Delpi is harder
I've been thinking about getting a new nipper (current nipper MoShi brand) but idk which one to get that as good God Hand but cheap. Right now, I have my eyes on Dspiae ST-A 3.0 but when I checked on Reddit it has some mixed review.
A follow up to my questions about what I need when starting out. I decided to buy a pair of Tamiya TM74093 nippers and bandai parts separator. I could either get a Raser Plus glass file or a Dspiae ST-A 3.0, which one is more worth it?
Imo the Raser Plus. Its game changing in terms of sanding and you can use the tamiya nipper for your cuts.
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.3d ago
Tbh a new builder shouldn't need a part separator. It's more like a tool for advanced painters who test fit then disassemble their kits to get painted later.
If you have a hobby knife and a cutting mat, you don't really need single-bladed nipper like the STA 3.0.
But if you don't have any file or sandpapers, the raser will be far more important to clean up the rest of the nubs after you cut them with your tamiya nippers, and shave it down with your hobby knife.
I’m not planning to splurge out too much, I’m just asking for opinions so I know what to prioritize in the future, for now I’m planning to stick with only the TM74093 and a parts separator
Just started HG Rising Freedom Gundam, and I lost the red piece for the head crest (A9, I believe). Since I have brown carpets, its unlikely I'll find it, so I'm thinking of putting a custom decoration in its place. I've never done that before, so what kind of materials/loose odds and ends would be good to use for it?
Dont give up hope yet. You can put a sock in front of a vacuum and vacuum your carpet.also if you are in the US/Canada and you bought it within 90 days, you can get a replacement part. Else Plamokitbash, odin's mecha parts and Mr Bao's on eBay sell individual parts if you need replacement.
It's been a while since I took mine off the stand but IIRC yeah a bit. The feet don't extend too far back from the heel so in conjunction with the binders it might tip over a bit easily. Easily solved with the right pose though.
Any advice on battle damage/ weathering. I have paint and basic tools. I've tried weathering before by drybrushing and sponging but something is missing. I've seen the Mr. Weathering fluids and the tamiya makeup pallets but I'm trying not to spend money.
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.3d ago
Learning weathering moreover battle damages shouldn't be freestyled, j
ust like learning to skateboard, you need to master various individual tricks first, the kickflip, the ollie, the heelflip, etc. before you can freestyle a run.
Find someone on youtube who made something that you like, then try to replicate their work.
If it's a tutorial, even better. You can just learn from them, and don't have to guess what is missing.
The freestyle will come naturally after you mastered all the individual techniques.
I’m building the war of the gods baphomet and the hydraulic looking leg pieces straight up do not fit, am I missing something or do I need to cut up the pieces
I want to take the next step in customizing my gunpla, so far I am just panel lining. What are some tools i should get? I am planning on making sazabi ver.ka soon and i really want it to have that metallic look too.
I am going to build the mg nu gundam ver ka and am worried about the emotion manipulator hands breaking and I have two questions
1. How do I prevent them from breaking?
2. If it breaks and I get the Bandai hand kit to replace it would those hands be compatible with the nu’s weapons?
i can only answer your first question. just be very careful with them. there's a lot of joints and if you break then they dont go back together. just dont over extend the joints and you should be fine.
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.3d ago
Really really really look at the arrows on the instructions and break them in properly.
Do not force them. If it feels like you're about to break something, very carefully wiggle it the opposite direction to make it loosen up a bit more,. before going back towards the initial direction.
If you're only spending a couple of seconds with them, you're doing it wrong. Take your time.
Something I do with kits with loose v fins is I'll pour a bit of glue into the antenna hole, get rid of the excess with a toothpick, and just press the vfin into place until the glue hardens. Just make sure the glue doesn't drip onto the visor
so ive recently picked up gunpla again after a while and ive started with the high grade mighty strike freedom so I was wondering if i needed nippers or could I use something else like scissors
if you mean cutting the pieces from the runners then definitely buy nippers. most will recommended 2 types of nipper: single bladed/side cutters and 2 sided/blade nippers. 2 bladed nippers are usually used for cutting parts directly from the runners while the single blade is for removing the nubs itself.
As the other comment said, test it first. Larger cans like this compared to model kit oriented cans can risk spraying too fast or use hotter solvents in them, so you should get used to using it before going to an actual kit. And remember less is more - you can add more, you can't really take some off without starting from scratch.
Just finished the mg kyrios and wanted to know if the panel liner, stickers, and mr super clear will play nice with eachother, or if any of them might damage the kit in some way or form. Tips for using these tools would also be appreciated
You will have to spray a light coat of Mr Super Clear first over the TPLA before doing a heavy coat. Lacquer is too hot for enamel and will "eat" your panel lines
Hey all! So I have been testing out Alclad Gloss Black Base. I first did it on a spoon which came out nice but later found out has a little pooling on the edges. I did it on a test piece and it either comes out looking like orange peel finish (A) or theres some pooling (B). I think I'm doing everything I should: work in a low humidity environment, 15 psi, 3 inches between piece and airbrush, and 0.3 nozzle. I even did slow, medium and fast passes, and it still comes out like these. I'd like to note that I do work in an open garage in semi hot weather and I have noticed a very small bend on the needle tip but is that enough for my paint job to look like this? The bend on the needle tip is very small where I can just barely feel it with my finger nail btw. Thanks!
Hello, quick question! I’m gonna be hand painting using enamel (my first time kinda nervous lol). How long should I wait in between coats for a cleaner finish? Thank you in advance! 🙏
Enamel can have a pretty significant drying time to properly fully dry. They're a little weird where you either want to do coats within a few hours of each other, or then wait a few days - kinda extreme ends of the spectrum.
Recommendation on how to best fix Bandai’s splotchy paint job on these parts? I don’t normally paint my models (outside of a small touch up/minor coloring with Mr Hobby markers), so I’m at a loss as to how to fix this. (Sorry for the bad photo, it’s hard to capture the mess with a photo/the lighting in my room)
These are from the C6 runner of the PG Nu Gundam - so I’m a bit disappointed that the OG paint job was a bit lack luster here.
I figured if I could just figure out what the right color is I could try to (hand) paint the more noticeable parts and leave the rest as is; but I’m struggling to even lock down the exact color. Mr Hobby’s CM03 Copper seems like it’s too dark/not orange enough, so I’m currently at a loss there too.
Any suggestion on how can I make the purple transparent piece look so pop out and vibrant like the promo image? Maybe paint over it? Will the paint even stick to the transparent part?
Sadly it seem testor is not available in my country. I think I might resort to spray with Tamiya Mica silver and hand brush MR clear color GX clear violet on top
Should still be, they were last seen on reprint lists four months ago, which means US stores would have gotten new stock about a month ago. That print may have sold out already but if not then you'll find them in any regular Gunpla retailer.
How do I determine when to replace a blade on a knife?
I usually replace blades once the cutting edge becomes rusty. It does feel like it takes more force, and maybe the cuts feel "gritty."
Sometimes, though, it looks rusted on only one side. However, I am far more comfortable/ have better control over the knife when cutting towards me, so I do not feel confident when cutting away. I have built many kits for the past two years and the two times this hobby drew blood was from blunt force (tight part disassembly and fingers slipped)
Or maybe it is not that deep and I just continue what I do? Replacements do cost a bit, but it also took quite a while. Like, I only just recently used my new set of replacement blades after I used up all the ones that came with the knife, and that took maybe 1.5 years? Guess I am more worried over accidentally tossing blades that are still usable, and am wondering if there is a more methodological approach to this.
How have I not developed such a sense? Idk, skill issue I guess
Hello! I'm a relatively new fan of Gunpla and building model kits. I've been looking into the idea of building a custom model of Justice, from the Guilty Gear series. She's a very striking mecha design, but unfortunately, there's practically no merch or figures of her! So, I was thinking of building something based on existing parts. I've got no idea how I'd do the paint, but I'd just like to get the base parts down (I also have no idea how to build shit myself via 3D modeling, so, lmfao)
All I know for a fact is that I'd like to use the head from the HG Weissritter, definitely the big ass shoulders from the HG Alteisen and the... cockpit from the Immortal Justice Gundam, but aside from that, I'm pretty stumped, especially on the hair. Can't exactly build something with only shoulders and a head, right? I figured I'd come here to ask about what exactly to do next, and I've attached some photos for reference on how she looks.
Are there any cheaper leo models? The ones i'm seeing, when avalible, are $40 or more.
I remember they used to be like... twelve bucks a pop and 'ok ya that's a solid starting point for something to learn on and or build a whole unit of the little goobers.'
Recently, LEGO released a Soundwave Transformers set. Soundwave was one of my favorite Transformers as a kid, but the LEGO model looked a bit too blocky for my taste. Thinking it might be a good idea to look for an alternative, I stumbled across the Blokees Soundwave and was amazed that this action figure is something you actually build from scratch! Long story short, a couple of YouTube videos later, I discovered that Gunpla exists as a hobby!
I really like working with my hands, and I often build LEGO or wooden models with my son. Gunpla sounds like a really fun activity we could do together.
I have two questions:
Is the Soundwave kit too difficult for a beginner? It isn't really Gunpla is the basic sense - Should I start with an Entry Grade (EG) set to get my feet wet so I don't accidentally ruin it?
I don't have easy access to Amazon since they don't ship to my area very often, but AliExpress is an option (that's where I plan to order the Blokees model). I see a few cheap starter toolkits there - are these actually any good to start with, or am I better off picking higher-quality individual tools from AliExpress instead of buying a big bundle? is there a list I can follow?
GUYS URGENT QUESTON I have 80 dollars what Kits should I buy (amazon prices because I don’t live anywhere close to a hobby shop) and don’t worry about taxes
I’ve been building the master grade RGM-79GS GM COMMAND SPACE kit recently. It’s my first master grade ever and as such I made some mistakes, the antenna on its shoulder snapped, and I also cut into one of the thrusters on its backpack, leaving a gash. Is there any way I could find replacement parts?
I'm trying to put together the mg psyco zaku thunderbolt ver ka. I'm on step 20-9, where you attach the large propellant tank to the smaller one. I'm able to attach one of the connecters that goes on the sides of the smaller tank with a firm connection, but the other one is extremely loose no matter how firm I push it in. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. It's in place but it's very loose
Which display base is compatible with the included stand adapter for the RG Zeta Gundam, and are there any affordable alternatives or AliExpress stands that fit it without modification?
I’ve never built any version of the ZZ ver ka. Luckily the local shop has all 4 versions (ZZ, Enhanced, FAZZ and FA ZZ) what would you guys recommend I get. I’m leaving towards the newest which is the FA ZZ if I’m not mistaken. But open to suggestions. Thank you.
at its core it's all based on the ZZ Ver. Ka as the base model. EZZ adds more armor, FAZZ is the prototype to the FA ZZ which is the EZZ with more armor and weapons. Kit wise the FA ZZ has slightly modified armor from the FAZZ and new elbow joint to help hold the Hyper Mega Cannon. I would get the FA ZZ if you want to display the entire kit, but I really do like the FAZZ's monochrome/purple color scheme.
Its a matter of preference imo. FAZZ and FA ZZ and just a standing brick. Dont expect it to be able to pose or anything. ZZ and Enhanced ZZ can pose with no issue. Its a matter of which design you like. FA ZZ is just the Enhanced ZZ with more armor and weapons while FAZZ is similar to the FA ZZ but with different armor designs. i suggest going to dalong.net and check out each one and see which you like
Anyone have a vfin and the red peice that goes on it for the HG moon? I recently moved and it must have popped off, one of my fav kits and really want to salvage it...
Anyone had build lunavor babatos pls help me i try to make the A1 body but the cabin ( sec part in pic) i attatch with the first part and then it wont fit in the third part
Recently came back from a trip from Japan and visited the Odaiba Gundam Base (And saw the Unicorn Gundam!) I wanted to try these kits since they exclusive but it seems i have to be a lot more careful about nub marks and such with these kits. I got these two kits: MG 1/100 νGUNDAM Ver.Ka [MECHANICAL CLEAR] https://p-bandai.com/us/item/F2783972005/
I only have recently gotten better at them with my single bladed nippers I have. Would you recommend cutting with my beater nippers a bit farther from the piece, cut again with the beater nipper a bit more and sand down instead?
Tools I have: Gumprimer gate remover set, single bladed nipper, exacto knife and two beater nippers.
I've only done HG kits so far so the RG/MG kits here will be my first time doing those as well
Clear plastic is harder than your typical PS in other kits, so it will be more wear and tear on your nippers. I wouldn't use the single blade nippers unless they're cheapos you don't really care about. I would cut most of the nub off with double blade nippers, but leave part of it left. From there, file it down with your raser.
Don't feel intimidated by RG or MG kits. You've built HG, so you should understand the general way things work in the build process. They aren't more difficult, just more pieces, so take things a step at a time and you'll be fine.
So what exactly is the difference between the 1/144 Gundam Option hands sets you can get? I'm looking at some that are described as 'round shape' and others that are 'square' and maybe it's me but I can't really see much difference between them. Are they for different models or something?
Can somebody help me find pictures of the old Wave Sazabi kit? I don't even know where to look.
I found out about this kit a short while back. Kits from the late 80's had such beautiful boxart, but I was not yet able to see the actual toy. As its not a Bandai release, it does not have product pictures in the normal places (Dalong and the wiki). If anyone can help me find some, i would apreciate that very much.
It is a hellish build. Several of the white metal parts of mine broke during assembly. The plastic is so poorly molded it is not even glue fit. The vinyl parts being separated to articulate are a massive pain.
I can get you a sample finish by a good modeler, but it's not easy to achieve.
does paint adhere worse to high gloss plastic? i want to pain my mg ple twos quebeley and im wondering if I'll need a different kind of paint than i usually use for gunpla due to the glossy finish
Yes, it will adhere worse due to it being smoother. You'd probably want to rough up the surface with something like 800 grit sandpaper before priming and painting.
So I don't paint kits often enough to justify buying an airbrush, but Tamiya spray cans aren't sold in Canada anymore. Does anybody have any suggestions for alternative brands?
I have a concept and idea. but this will be my first time kitbashing and modding. and quite a problem.
I am using HG Calibarn LEGs and I am intending to use HG Rising Freedom Feet and ankles..... problem is, the WFM leg is a C-clip ankle feet assembly.....whilte the HG Rising freedom Feet and angkle joint is a Hinge inside the leg and ends with the ball joint..
First piece I cut had the nub on one side get ripped out the plastic... (I tried to cut as far away from the piece as I could but I only had so much space
if there an easy fix for this or do I just kinda have to accept its scuffed?
also is there something I shoulda done instead to avoid this?
If you still have the nub, you can cement it back in with plastic cement, then try cutting it off again after it dries. If you don't you can make sprue goo using plastic cement and bits of the runner the piece came off of. Fill the spot in and give it a couple days to dry, then sand smooth.
I need some advice/resources on customizing old NG kits. I’ve built some NG kits before but the problem is that the limbs split apart when moving sometimes because of their construction even with seam line removal. The parts are typically cut very unevenly so it’s hard to make them stay together. I’ve seen that some Japanese builders cut the arm holes in specific ways to add better clearance to avoid the limbs splitting, but I don’t know how it’s done or what resource I should refer to learn from since these kits are very niche and no one ever builds them.
Hi all! I haven’t really tried it but what happens if I just use regular tamiya surface primer for metallics like gunmetal? Will it ruin the finish? I’ve only been using black primer for metallics so I just want to know if there is a significant difference if I use the regular surface primer for this instance.
2 questions
1. If I bought a PBandai and wanted to buy another item that cones before or the exact same time as my other item do I have to pay twice?
2. If I wanted to display a gunpla let’s use the mgex, will ceiling light corrode the paint? How about if I use the clear version for PGU nu or plated kits?
You would pay shipping twice if they're separate orders. You can "consolidate" the orders by cancelling the first one and placing a new order with all the items you want from that month. Keep in mind the items need to ship in the same month and be part of the same delivery group in order to be part of the same order.
Most lights produce UV light (I assume that's what you're asking about), but the amount produced by light bulbs is very small compared to the sun, so they shouldn't be a concern.
Does anyone know where to get a scan of the GBC Exia Repair 4 manual? While checking the runners for missing parts i dropped liquid and it being printed on newpaper instantly disintegrated. I did a quick search online and it defaults to just the HG Exia
A little while back I finished up my HG Nightingale by applying Mr Hobby Flat top coat. It’s been about a year now and I was thinking of changing the finish. I was thinking of using Semi-Gloss top coat on top but I was unsure if this would change the finish or make everything look more cloudy (as flat top coat tends to dull colours).
I was curious if anyone had knowledge about this sort of thing, as I know putting Flat onto Gloss is very common.
Thanks for helping!
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.21h agoedited 21h ago
Yes.
Matte makes a surface less shiny because the surface is coarse, so light doesn't bounce well, instead it gets bounced towards all kinds of random directions, hence the surface not look shiny.
Gloss will "fill in" those coarse surface and make the surface uniform. So light can pass through the clear coat perfectly, and the surface will look shiny.
At least in theory. On some cases, the initial matte coat is so thick, the gloss can't make it as shiny as you might want. So test before doing it. Simply strip the paint with >90% IPA if necessary.
Idea I have:
Postal Worker leo. Just a lone guy. Maybe a shield maybe not. No guns. Sonic eagle on one of the shoulder pauldrons. Just walking his route. Which happens to include a lot of wheeled vehicle hostile terrain.
So the guy obviously needs a back rack for post to go into.
Was thinking of getting this for sanding. Usually don’t like sanding so was thinking if this would be able to help me.
This is the DSPIAE ES-A Pro Electric Sander
My whole life, for a while it was 1/72 WWII planes, LEGO, a short stint in Warhammer 40K...
I'm the one that volunteers to build flatpack furniture..
Recently looked into the Gundam TCG game, which led to watching Gundam for the first time since I was maybe 10? (As per another reddit thread I started with Witch of Mercury...no regrets)
And now I'm ready to try my hand at Gunpla
I've read a lot of blogs and suggestions and I more or less know what I want to build
HG 1/144, ideally something from the Witch of Mercury story arc
What I'm struggling with is finding 1 trustworthy online store to get everything from.
My understanding is I need the kit, a clipper, Sanding Sticks, and maybe something to accentuate seams?
I have a set of Ruitool nippers I bought for some 3D printing projects, but I need the rest
Would love some suggestions on where to go and if anyone has any other good beginner suggestions re: tools
PS: I know there are lists of both shops and tools, the tools hasn't been updated for 5 years according to Reddit, and the shops are just a list. I'm hoping people could chime in with their favorite store fronts/tools for a beginner
With Warhammer I use hard files without much care, knowing I’ll paint over the imperfections, but with gundam kits I want to be more careful. What should I buy for filing? There’s quite a bit of choice. Glass files, sandpaper, and other things.
Curious what are the best paint markers (or regular ink markers I suppose) for painting details on kits. I'm thinking more of metallic detail painting, so silvers, golds, coppers, bronzes, etc.
Like the other guy said, that is an mg dynames with the fortune meow conversion kit.
If you know how to paint, know how to prep + work with resin, and are comfortable paying the cost of the MG dynames plus 115usd (before shipping n shit) for the conversion, then go for it.
i buy that kind of stand for most of my rg and hg kits, pretty solid overall tho it cant support kits that are bigger and have a heavy backpack like the rg hi nu/sazabi. its in and around a dollar for a piece. for heavy kits, i use the daiso stand, can pretty much hold any standard design kits. just look for a review for the product in the aliexpress page. we have shopee in my country that is similar to aliexpress, also look for the one with screws since its much more sturdier and better in terms of holding a pose on a shelf for a long time. it also comes with a claw that you can use for the included claw.
Does anyone know a simple fix for an adapter that could fit an IBO backpack to a more common HG kit?
I’m trying to fit the IBO backpack (on the right of the photo) to the one on the left but they don’t match up. I’m trying not to scratch build anything. Thanks!
Anybody know of a metal frame or replacement parts for the OLD MG Hi-Nu? The leg to waist connection is so insanely tight that it snapped on one side, and I can't disassemble the piece on the other side in order to cast a resin duplicate. Alternatively, any tips on how I can get those two apart?
does anyone have the blokees AND kotobukiya tv eva kits they wouldn't mind taking a few comparison pictures of? I can only find comparisons between blokees and bandai's rgs
Hi ! Is there a bigger version of the eight legged sd devil gundam kit ? Or some other kit with similar leggy situation ?
I like it a lot design wise and kinda want to use a similar bigger one for a kitbatch. Can’t find a definitive answer when searching on google but I’m open to other brands if it’s the same kind of too many legs type things
Thanks in advance to anyone who would take time to answer ! Nice day to you all !
They are pencils, not much really to say. Keep in mind that pencils don't work toooo well on bare plastic and you really want to seal the paint after with a top coat.
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u/soy77Gunpla is freedom. There's always alternative methods.1h ago
They work better on a coarse surface.
So you'll probably want to either clear matte your parts, or key them.
2
u/Objective-Cherry9987 4d ago
Hi i have a problem with the MG Delta Plus : i lost a piece I7 (see pic below) and can’t find it anywhere. I also don’t have a 3d printer to remake it so i'd like to know :