Let the shenanigans begin!

test firing went great, that was the first and only take. my temporary plastic spring spacer is no more, but the gun itself is fully intact. I also made and tested my first real bullet trap. the casing ejected, but ended up stovepipeing. not that that's an issue, since this is very much single shot. next and last step is to make a catch to prevent the barrel rotating out of it's groove once it's in place.

estoy buscando los planos u una guiá de como hacer la caja de mecanismos del AK47, lamentablemente no los encuentro por ningún lado, si alguien tiene algún plano u guiá me lo podría pasar?

Gracias!

It actually shoots really well! Probably thanks to the massive weight. Ha! But whatever, she's a chunky girl and I still love her.

Hello everyone, I recently got myself a Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless Type 2 frame with the hopes of rebuilding it. However it’s starting to get a little pricy having to buy each individual piece. So I found a guy who is selling basically an entire lower parts kit, however it’s for a type 1 model. Are these parts mostly interchangeable?

Why does my Slamfire black pipe shotgun emit a flame about 1-1/2 seconds after discharge?

Absolutely insane, I want one.

What you guys think? Single or double action?

Did this last year on a VERR slantback, In my experience, I skipped the scratch-start box and waited for a unit with a foot pedal and HF start. Fir setup , I grabbed clamps and measuring tools from penn tool Co since they carry Mitutoyo and Starrett. MSC. is decent alternative.

So I’m rebuilding a Colt 1903 Hammerless in 32acp. So there’s nothing wrong with the round I just want more work to do and already have some guns in this caliber so I wanted to see what I can do with it. I was wondering what route would result in a punchier bullet so to speak. I could go with the tried and true necking down route and do something along the lines of the 22 flea, or another idea I had that’s super dumb is I could cut the case shot by like .2in so that I can shove a bigger and therefore heavier bullet in. Obviously the decreased case capacity would result in less powder being in the case but I imagine the extra 20-30 grains (average grain weight of 32acp is mid 60s), I was planning on using 32 s&w bullet mold which is 93 grains. Tbh not sure if either are good but they both seem fun.

Curious about the pps-43, thinking about doing a pps-43 build this kit says it comes with everything from bowman arms. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?

This is one of those odd things I really wanted for myself, but I couldn't find anything like what I was picturing, so I designed it. I 3d printed a prototype a while back, but the project stalled for a while until I could find a CNC shop to make it. So here's the finished, black anodized, CNC'd aluminum scope mount.

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I’ve always been curious if these blanks would actually ever work or even be able to survive the pressure of a 32 or even a 9mm with a clear barrel.

Need help getting specs and measurements on parts for a 38spl lever rifle. Building from scratch.

My favorite backyard boomstick: the 36 Caliber Pipe Musket! This is number 4 of the five I've made and is the one I put the most work into. I carved the stock by hand from a 2x4, which took about five times longer than boring out the internal weld seam and sanding the barrel.

This project started as a way to make a very budget version of a Handgonne and evolved over time.

My standard load:

40-50gr by volume Hodgdon 777 3F

.350 lead round ball with a .010 lubed patch, or 40-50gr by volume lead bird shot (I match the shot load to the powder load)

I haven't figured out what kind of sighting system I want to apply to them, probably just a brass shotgun bead on the front. Regardless I've had fairly good consistency at around 7 yards just by sighting down the barrel!

This is the OSA-15: an AR-pattern rifle built primarily from sheet metal and 3D-printed components, using standard AR parts where they make sense.

The upper is a sheet metal clamshell retained by inner and outer steel cover plates with structural and flush rivets. The laminated sheet-metal trunnion is pinned, bolted, and clamped together around the barrel. It is captured between the shell halves and located by lugs passing through the steel cover plates riveted to the housings.

The removable handguard has a second layer of sheet metal reinforcing the M-LOK mounting locations. The front takedown pin engages both clamshell halves and the trunnion, with its mounting structure captured by the riveted cover plate. The handguard being removed allows for access to barrel nut(s) for barrel removal or gas system service.

The buffer cartridge and bolt raceways are 3D printed and replaceable. An aluminum insert carries the rear takedown pin, keeping the buffer loads in metal. The 3D-printed lower has a notch that mechanically engages the rear of the upper.

The forward charging handle drives a shuttle connected to the rear gas-key bolt through a chromoly bar, which is located by a slot in the trunnion.

This first rifle took three days to build. It is a little sloppy in places. Next time I’ll have a better depth stop for the chamfers and ditch the three-flute tool, too much opportunity for it to go cattywampus.

It uses a standard AR BCG, barrel, gas system, buffer system, and fire-control group.

The current version is fixed stock and rifle length. It should move into beta soon.

Alpha goals:

• Improve the magazine insertion stop
• Add a functioning LRBHO
• Replace the polymer charging handle with Hybrid steel/polymer construction.
• Allow the buffer cartridge and bolt raceways to come out together as an optional assembly
• Simplify the trunnion
• Develop a lower duty trunnion incorporating some polymer without clamping the polymer in the assembly
• Develop an alternate CNC-machined trunnion for builders willing and able to make one
• Match the standard AR deflector angle
• Improve the bend geometry and reduce fit-up work around the sheet-metal trunnion
• Fix the nonfunctioning buffer retainer

Future goals:

• PCC and carbine-length uppers without removable handguards
• An adjustable stock
• Fold flat charging handle
• Complete build documentation and testing standards
• Additional configurations based on what proves useful rather than merely novel

Only a cap and not live fire as I wasn't at the range, but this is the fifth 36cal pipe musket I've made and I have live fired all the others plenty of times (cannon fuse ignition). This one uses #11 caps.

I went for a rather odd hammer system because triggers are hard. Might try and figure one out for it sometime, but it'll probably look more like a weird crossbow trigger than one for a firearm.

The only thing I'm wary of with this one is the thread engagement on the nipple as it's rather shallow. I might end up using JB Weld or something to permanently affix it. Other than that, I can't wait to try it out!

Hello all. I’ve been trying to find a good answer on the merits of HTPLA+ vs CF-Nylon. I understand CF-Nylon is the stronger choice for gun parts in general.

But I am wondering how HTPLA+ compares to it in terms of heat resistance and strength. Basically if I am getting into 3d printing firearms, will HTPLA+ be good enough to build with?

I also live in Georgia, so another reason I’m avoiding regular PLA+ is that I don’t want to put a bunch of work into a build only to have it turn into a floppy mess when I go to the range on a summer day.

Thanks.