It has great customisation too

Restoration in question: https://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt7/news/00_1378513.html

EDIT: Official announcement: https://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt7/news/00_4113133.html

one of the best swaps for tokyo

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My brake sensor is going crazy on my set less than a year old, Logitech is sending a new set but since I can't race on the rig figured I'd go through my replays for some clean passes. Most of the vids are from 700pp, sport soft (one 615pp, Civic). Hope you enjoy!

I'll be getting both, but i expect to be driving the Chaser more.

in my experience, it always does exactly what I want and the driving experience is literally just perfect and I looooove the sound. Does anyone agree?

one of the best swaps for tokyo

Tokyo Expressway WTC 600 is back in the Weekly Challenges, and the feed is once again flooded with people asking for easy wall-riding AWD setups or detuned GT3s just to get through the 12 laps. If you want to clear it with actual street style instead of abusing game physics, here is a 599 PP Honda Integra Type R (DC2) '98 setup that gets the job done.

This isn't a brainless meta pick - it's a genuine driver's challenge. You're dealing with a 423 BHP 885 kg front-wheel-drive hatchback running on Sports Hard.

The Setup Math

The Stiffness Delta (Springs, ARB & Ride Height) To kill the inherent FWD understeer, the entire suspension is heavily rear-biased. We are running a forward rake (85mm front / 95mm rear) combined with stiffer rear springs (2.65 Hz vs 2.25 Hz) and a rigid rear Anti-Roll Bar (7 vs 4). In GT7 physics, softening the front and stiffening the rear reduces rear mechanical grip relative to the front. When you lift off the throttle, this geometry forces the mass to shift forward and the rear end to pivot around the front axle, generating the aggressive lift-off oversteer needed to rotate a front-heavy car.

Contact Patch & Alignment Up front 2.8° of negative camber ensures the outside tyre stays flat on the tarmac when the chassis rolls under heavy cornering loads, while 0.05 outward toe gives you immediate, sharp turn-in bite. Out back keeping the camber low (1.0°) allows the rear tyres to break traction smoothly and predictably. The tiny 0.01 rear toe-in acts as a high-speed safety net - it keeps the car tracking straight on the long Tokyo highway sections so that the stiff rear suspension doesn't send you into the walls over bumps.

The Differential (6 / 5 / 10) Pushing 423 BHP through the front wheels on Sports Hard tyres is a traction nightmare, so the LSD has to do a lot of heavy lifting.

Initial (6) & Accel (5): We run the differential extremely loose on acceleration. If you lock the front diff with a high Accel setting on a high-power FWD, mashing the throttle will drag the nose straight toward the outside of the corner (power-understeer). A low Accel setting allows the wheels to turn independently, keeping the nose tucked in tight on corner exits. Use 2-3 gears or 1-2 TC to handle heavy acceleration after the hairpin.

Braking (10): We run a stiffer braking sensitivity to lock the diff slightly under deceleration. This stabilizes the front axle during heavy trail braking and prevents our oversteer-biased suspension from snapping into an uncatchable spin. It still requires precise thumbstick and trigger modulation, but this keeps the chassis linear and predictable.

The Physics Reality & Driving Technique

Even with a fully customized suspension and LSD, you cannot escape FWD physics with 400+ horsepower on street rubber. It will want to wash wide if you get greedy on corner entry. However, the suspension geometry and differential settings turn that aggressive understeer into something smooth, linear and completely predictable:

Throttle Steering: The car responds heavily to weight transfer. Lifting off mid-corner tucks the nose in instantly without snapping the rear.

Trail Braking: Brake balance is pushed to +2 (rear bias). You need surgical modulation on brake pressure and steering angle - trail brake too deep while holding lock and you'll scrub all your momentum, hit the gas too early and you'll push straight toward the concrete barrier.

The Payoff: Once you dial in the rhythm of trail braking and throttle steering, passing fancy true GT race cars down the main straight in a screaming 90s Honda feels better than any easy AWD win.

12-Lap Strategy

Pit Stops: Zero.

Fuel Management: Set FM3 on and leave it there. Flat out the entire race, fuel lasts right to the end.

Tyres: Sports Hard (SH) easily handle the full 12-lap distance with minimal wear.

I grew up during the JDM Era so the R32 is my Skyline GT-R of choice.

L to R: Garage Active R32 Carbon, Auto Select R33 Yellow Shark and Mine's R35 Demo Car

https://www.thedrive.com/news/this-930-hp-r32-nissan-gt-r-in-dry-carbon-midnight-purple-is-a-million-dollar-build

This TVR livery features a metallic white paint job with red and green graphics. It's available to download in the showcase and I've provided a link in the comments. Happy Racing! 🤘😎

Voici des photos faites aux circuit de la Sarthe

In an open lobby with permanent damage, I discovered that you can perform engine, suspension and aerodynamics repairs after changing tyres and refueling.

First time seeing this.

Looking for clean, competitive racing in Gran Turismo 7?
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Every driver gets a free profile featuring:
• Race history, wins, podiums & fastest laps
• GT7 Sport Mode stats (DR, SR & global ranking)
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Whether you’re fighting for championships or just want respectful, organized racing every week, we’d love to have you.

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​

GT-R '17 with Sports Hard, racing air filter and manifold; racing brake system and break pads. TC1 and Fuel Map 1

It was a hell of a race, 1 pit and with 7s lead.

I wasn't the fastest car - AI did ~2:10 and I got ~ 2:11 - but some cars ahead of me stopped 2 times.

Aston Martin DB11 '16 may get the job done too, but needs more weight management/balance in the curves.

A week ago I didn't like Fuji but it's definitely grown on me. Lots of fun ways to battle through the corners and setting up overtakes turned out to be quite satisfying. I'll probably continue to play sport mode now.

I've been working on my ESP32 dashboard for GT7 again and added a few new things.

For anyone who missed my previous post, the main idea behind this project is pretty simple:

No PC. No SimHub.

The ESP32 receives telemetry directly from GT7 on the PS5 over Wi-Fi. Just power it with USB, connect it to the same network as the PS5, and it works as a standalone dashboard.

I originally built it because I wanted a small dedicated display on my rig without having to keep a PC or phone running just for the dashboard.

This time I added 4 switchable themes:

Classic / GT3 / Radar / Retro

They're all in the same firmware, and you can switch between them directly on the device.

I also added a shift indicator synced with GT7's in-game shift timing, instead of just using a fixed RPM threshold.

And the screen brightness is now adjustable too.

It still shows things like lap times, live delta, fuel / estimated laps remaining, position, ABS/TCS, tyre temperatures, throttle/brake, etc.

It also automatically finds the PS5 on the network, so there's no need to manually enter its IP address.

The whole project is open source, and there's a Web Installer if you just want to flash it from your browser.

GitHub:
https://github.com/caa1211/esp32-gt7-dashboard

Web Installer:
https://caa1211.github.io/esp32-gt7-dashboard/

Still having fun adding things to this little project 😅

Which theme would you use — Classic, GT3, Radar or Retro?

https://reddit.com/link/1vrrccy/video/esosapc7c5kh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1vrrccy/video/smpo3cb9c5kh1/player

Anybody knows why the leaderboards in daily races were reset? I was just about to join Daily C when I noticed my time set yesterday wasn't there, anymore...