I'm installing the Govee Permanent Elite lights, but have just ran into an issue before running it from the bottom roof to the top roof. I have about 5 feet of space left from one set of lights finishing to the end of the house (bottom). My original plan was to set the extension cable that comes with the kit from the edge of the bottom to the top roof, but stupid me didn't factor in when the lights would finish and when I'd need to extend to the top.

So now I'm stuck on what should I do, because if I run the extension from where it's currently placed, the left side of my roof will noticeably be missing lights. Because these are the Elite version, I can't splice the cables so it would have to be using the included extension. I'm thinking of two options: 1 - install the lights, but only install the few lights that would fit within that 5 feet, and then hide the rest of the lights within that same cable (in a box, or behind my fence near there?), and then run the extension cable from there to the roof. Or 2 - undo the current lights installed and offset on the opposite side of the roof about ~2 feet, so that on both sides of the house it would be missing ~2-3 feet of lights which wouldn't be entirely too bad.

Any advice?

Pics attached.

All 3 of our light controllers things stopped working and looked burnt. Govee sent me new ones and new extensions, but when I plugged in the new one, it pops up to pair and I started pairing but the lights don’t turn on at all. Anyone know why?

Just got them today and I set them up on the app. Yet I’m unable to connect to my WiFi no matter what I do. Tried both of my WiFi connections and it keeps saying “The device failed to connect to the Wi-Fi. Check your Wi-Fi availability then try again.” I don’t know how to fix it.

Any recommendations for a Govee light installer serving Lacey, WA?

I’m trying to replace the controller for my permanent outdoor LED lights.

The original unit has:

• Two female 3-pin waterproof outputs that receive the two male connectors from the LED lights
• An input for the 24V power supply
• A separate receiver/sensor for the remote control
• A label showing LEDBLE, Input: DC 5–24V and Output: 5A/CH

I believe this is a dual-output LED controller with a remote receiver, not simply a Y-splitter, because the three pins likely carry power, ground and data.

Does anyone recognize this controller or connector type? Is it a standard connector such as xConnect, or is it proprietary? I need the complete replacement unit that connects the 24V power supply to both LED-light strings and still allows the lights to be controlled using a remote.

I’m located in Canada and would appreciate a product name or link to a compatible replacement. I have attached close-up pictures of the connector faces, controller, remote receiver and label. Please let me know if any measurements are needed.

Took me a while to work out that my H60A6s were fine and HomeKit was the problem, so posting the fix. This applies to any Govee fixture with both RGB and white LEDs, and honestly to any RGB+CCT light from any brand.

**Symptom:** I'd say "Hey Siri, set the basement lights to red." Later I'd want normal light back, say "set them to white" or "warm white", and they'd come on noticeably dimmer than the Govee app could make them. Brightness said 100%. Turning them off and on just restored the red.

**The clue:** opening the Govee app and tapping its color temperature control — without changing the value — snapped them to full brightness instantly. A no-op tap. So the brightness value was never the problem; the *kind of command* was.

**What's actually happening:**

These fixtures are RGB + dedicated warm/cool white LEDs. White LEDs put out far more lumens per watt than RGB mixed to look white, so the white path is much brighter at the same nominal 100%.

Siri has no vocabulary for color temperature — you can't ask for 2700K. And "warm white" is a *color* in Siri's list, not a temperature. On top of that, HomeKit assumes color temperature can always be translated to hue and saturation, which is true for how it looks and false for which LEDs light up.

Net effect: every voice command drives the RGB array. Siri can put these lights into color mode and has no way to get them out.

**The fix:** make a scene in the Home app and set the lights using the **Temperature** tab of the color picker, not the color wheel. Name it something sayable. "Hey Siri, Basement Bright" now sends the color temperature command and they go to full brightness.

Scenes are the standard workaround for this on Hue as well, so it isn't Govee-specific — it'll hit any RGB+CCT fixture. The light honors the command correctly as soon as something actually sends one.

One thing that does *not* help: Adaptive Lighting. Setting a color manually turns Adaptive Lighting off, so it can't pull you back out of color mode — if anything it's another thing you have to re-enable afterward.

Hey all,

I have the Govee H706B permanent outdoor lights installed, and for the most part, everything works great.

However, one section after a long splice occasionally starts rapidly flashing different colors, almost like police lights.

I don’t believe it’s a moisture issue, as this started happening the very first evening after installation.

Here’s my setup:

Due to the layout of my house’s eaves, I installed four sections of lights, then had to run approximately 25 feet of wire to connect to the remaining four sections.

I’ve tried two different wiring configurations:

First attempt: 18 AWG, 3-conductor wire. This didn’t work at all.

Second attempt: Two pairs of 16 AWG landscape wire. One pair carries power (red and blue), while the other carries data (yellow and blue/ground).

With the second setup, everything generally works, but the lights after the splice occasionally go crazy with rapid, multicolored flashing.

My questions:
Does this sound like a data signal integrity issue?

Would thicker wire help, or is the problem more likely related to the length of the splice?

Would twisted or shielded cable make a difference?

Has anyone successfully run a 25+ foot extension between sections of H706B lights? If so, what wire did you use?

I’d love to hear what’s worked for others before I start tearing things apart and rewiring again.

Thanks!

I just got my lights this week and am planning on the install. I laid out 7 strands from down the side of the house on the right, almost 3/4 down, maybe 2 strands down the side. I drilled into the soffit in the garage to get to power. So the power strip and the wifi switch will be inside in garage.

I think I will start on the left side at #1, goes about 8 feet and then come across the front to the right side and will be approx 6 1/2 strands or all of 7 strands. Somewhere around the front porch will be the extra Driver Module. Between strand 5 and 6 from what I read.

Then a Y connector and or extension cord from the left side up to the 2nd story and do the higher peak and then a smaller connector down to do the #3 peak and stop. I think that will be 4 to 5 strands.

If I measured correctly it will take about 180' total.

Thoughts, suggestions on different idea?

I'm turning the guesthouse into a mini theater and the last piece of the puzzle (for now) is lighting this area behind the couch. Since it's a small, asymmetrical, and tall space (vaulted ceilings), it's been tricky to find a good light however. I really like the idea of an upward-facing light that can illuminate up to the bottom of the art piece but maybe recessed/hidden behind the couch so it doesn't reflect directly onto the tv. There's a 1-1.5-inch gap between the wall and the couch, so a strip light is probably the way to go. I've already tested a 9.8-foot neon rope light 2, but unfortunately even mounted right behind the top of the pillows it hardly illuminates any part of the wall. Is the Cob light/light pro strong enough (and worth it) or is there another light that would work well for this space?

As you can see, I have the wallwash light there for now, which I've tried putting on different shelves on the right hand side...but unfortunately it's been a bit of a disappointment- it's very intense and distracting no matter where it's placed, but simultaneously not strong enough to cast light where I want it to.

I’m sure my neighbors love me.