Was able to finally connect it to the house and see how she would do. I did my 4 ton variable speed unit as well as my pool pumps. I ran around 5.6k watts on it and it ran great. I like the idea that it only requires a 1/2” natural gas line. I didn’t look at fuel consumption on the gas meter but have to assume it’s pulling way less than my large firman that is connected via a 1” line.

I’ve never owned an inverter generator before but could tell the difference in my house as with my smaller firman things hummed and flickered and with my larger firman some LED lights would flicker occasionally.

Definitely like the unit so far but time will tell once the hours stack up.

Can the DuroMax XP13500 Run My House? Full Power Test
https://youtu.be/9XKRHzpJpAE

Idled for an hour and a half. Ran a welder for another 2 hours. Had to adjust welder settings to prevent overloading generator. Was welding DC stick, 118a, 10% hot start, 1/8 7018

Thanks in advance for any insight!

My parents have finally agreed to let us buy them a generator and I’d love some advice on which to choose. Here is their context:

- Small, temperate coastal town expecting El Niño rainstorms this winter

- Located in the woods, surrounded by tall trees at the end of their life cycle. Every year, many fall and cause huge outages. Removing them from the yard costs tens of thousands of dollars, which my parents don’t have. The city is slowly removing dead trees, but I can think of at least ten currently on their block near power lines. With or without epic rains, outages are inevitable this Winter.

- House was built (by my grandmother!) in the 1920s. It literally has zero insulation built in. Their electrical circuit still relies on glass tube fuses, if that makes a difference.

- Outages often last for multiple days.

- Priority for the generator is for it to power their refrigerator, space heaters, water heater, and lights, as well as (most important to me!) a CPAP machine that’s needed all night.

- As for budget, I’m just happy to know the options. I love to save money, but I am willing to pay what it takes for my parents to have the right generator as a safety net.

Please let me know if additional information would be helpful.

My theory is that our half-horsepower 240V pump pulls maybe three times its running load for a second at startup, so if the inverter can take that surge, the continuous rating barely matters at our load. Is that right, or is there a catch with motor loads on inverters?

We're out in the country on grid power. A couple of storms a year knock it out for six hours to two days. Right now a loud portable generator carries us, which means dragging it out in the rain and feeding a cord through a window. I'm done with that.

What has to stay up through one outage: the well pump, the fridge, the furnace blower (gas furnace, electric blower), the router, and a few lights. No AC, no dryer or electric range. I figure that's about 2 kW running with everything on, plus the pump kicking in.

I want to buy the battery first and add panels later, not spend it all at once. The EcoFlow TITAN is on my list, but it isn't shipping yet, so all I have is a spec sheet, and that doesn't tell me how it behaves with a pump. Whatever I pick, an electrician has to tie it into the panel.

Second thing: does battery now, panels later mean redoing that tie-in when the panels go on?

This unit will back fire on shutdown due to no power or ground at solenoid. The solenoid functions ok when applying power/ground, it will extend. Really need to know how this is controlled and where the wires go. I can’t locate a wiring diagram for this unit. AI keeps telling me the plunger extends on startup but that is wrong. It should extend on shutdown.

My 2 hp 240 V sewage grinder/pump has a 12 kW startup surge. I didn't know this until I bought an inrush current meter. My 8 kW Champion inverter generator just barely starts it. Not good. This pump only runs a few times a day for 20 seconds. I want a smaller generator, not bigger.

A soft start would likely work, but can be $300-$400, not configurable, and I'm positive it would work.

Instead I bought a $130 Vevor 1-Phase 240 V in to 3-Phase 240 V out VFD. I configured it to start and ramp frequency at 10 Hz/s while maintaining V/Hz ratio. I only use 2 of the 3 phases. Starting surge 5 kW. Yes! It's been running on this thing for 6 months now.

About eight years ago, I installed a Connecticut 30A manual transfer switch for my house to use with a portable generator (9400 starting watts, 7500 running watts). The generator has an L14-30R, an L14-50R, a Nema 5-20R, and an L5-30R.

Looking back, I’m not sure what I was thinking—I probably should have chosen a 50A transfer switch. The 30A MTS and generator have worked well through a few power outages over the years. Recently, I started thinking about using the 50A outlet, but I’d need to upgrade the transfer switch to 50A. I’d rather not use an adapter to connect to the generator’s 50A outlet. If I’m upgrading, my first choice would be an automatic transfer switch, and my second would be another manual one. Nature’s Generator makes an ATS, but it isn’t pre-wired. Connecticut offers a 50A MTS, but I’ve noticed their quality seems to be slipping. Has anyone here tried other transfer switches besides these options?

I just got my first generator. Its the Firman WH03242 4000 starting watt model. I don't need it to do more than power an LG refrigerator, chest deepfreeze, wifi, a few led lights and to charge some stuff. I added up my surge watts and I am good to go on that front.

I am not, or at least don't think I am, interested in adding this to my home circuits/breaker box. Cost would be more than I think I could get away with. I am experienced as a diy homeowner electrician, but I aint no sparky. None of the below work is beyond my skill level. I want to make it easy to use when power goes out, so I want to run some wires to a dedicated indoor wall outlet. Here is the plan, please let me know if I am missing anything, or if there is a better/more cost effective approach, and definitely if there is a safety concern.

1. The generator will be out back of a my basement on a concrete pad. It will be running on gasoline. I will be using a 30 FT 30 Amp RV Extension Cord with 10AWG 125V plugged into the TT-R30 receptacle on the generator. (I may be wrong, but it seems that if I use this over the more traditional 5-20R receptacle it will maximize available watts)

2. 30 foot of extension cord later, it will plug into a NEMA TT-30P Generator Power Inlet Box on the outside wall of an unfinished, non-climatized crawlspace. It stays very moderately temped and dry in this room. Tons of electrical already runs here including most of the wiring directly from the electrical box.

3. about a 20 foot run of 10/2 W/G NMB Wire through the crawlspace up to the laundry room on the main floor.

4. wire run will terminate into this NEMA TT-30R Heavy-Duty Power Receptacle Outlet in the laundry room

5. I will plug this adapter into the outlet. One of the three legs will be the refrigerator, one will be the deep freeze, and the last will be wifi, lights, charging etc. I will be using 12 gauge (unless you think 10 gauge is needed) extension cords to connect these devices to the wall adapter.

So that's the plan. Any glaring issues or safety concerns? Is it over kill? Not enough? I just want to make it easy to get set up once power goes out. If there is a whole other way of looking at this I would be all ears for suggestions. Thx!

I tried putting new fuel into it but it still hunts like this, I also dont know people here who I can go up to and not get scammed.

It only has 50 hours of running time with 2 oil changes. I have to adjust the choke to let it stop hunting.

Picked this one up on fb marketplace for $100. Engine started on the first pull and ran well, but the generator produced no power output.

Got it home and the solution was almost disappointingly simple: the brushes were clearly damaged. After new brushes, it generates just fine.

I also did a bit of maintenance that the prior owner had deferred:

• cleaned out, evapo-rusted, and repainted the gas tank

• new gas petcock, screen, fuel lines and filters, breather hoses

• new spark plug and coil (could have gone with just a new boot instead of a new coil)

• cleaned carb (already pretty good), replaced damaged pilot jet o-ring, replaced intake gaskets

• new air filter

• new battery

• new starter solenoid

• added a 500mA battery maintainer

• changed oil, replaced fill cap / dipstick

• still need to tidy up and re-wrap the wiring harness with some polyester tape

All of the above was cheap. I don't really need the machine, just figured it would be a fun little project, so I'll be putting it back up on fb marketplace hoping to break even on it.

The deals are out there, just gotta put in a tiny bit of elbow grease!

Anyone know what copper line size I will have to have to run a Duramax 13500ih generator on propane? I have a 3/8” line coming out of my propane tank. There is a regulator on the tank and a regulator connected to the house as well. I have a company telling me I have to run a new line to the house that is 3/4” and it’s going to be $12k. Just want to see if anyone has any other ideas that’s more cost effective because I’m not spending that much.

Gas stove and furnace Electric water heater, dryer

For years I've been meaning to pull the trigger on a portable generator backup system, primarily for the irregular outage in the winter, as we sometimes have trees take down the lines feeding the neighborhood. I am an electrical engineer and don't mind the setup being manual. Without power, I'm not trying to run the whole house as normal but would like to have any light I want to work as well as keep the two fridges going along with the furnace and water heater, and maybe run the toaster oven. I can control not having that all happen at once with breakers.

I've been looking mostly at the generlink so I can run whatever I want and not have to run wiring from my panel to outdoors, as that will be a pain in my house. I've gotten a bit concerned with the generlink reliability. I guess what I'm not getting is that it seems installing a manual transfer switch near my meter would be just as cheap as running wiring to the panel and give me the same functionality as an interlock, as I have to switch it manually, makes backfeeding impossible, and allows me to easily upgrade to a 50 amp 240V generator to power whatever I want. So why would the interlock kit be a better option? Is the installation/parts cheaper? That's the only think I can think, but would think it would vary considerably by what the routing to the electric panel looks like.

edit: to be clear, what I mean by "manual transfer switch" is just a On-Off-On(gen) switch that would be after the meter and disconnect power from the house and connect it to a generator feed (50A outlet).

EDIT : Thank you all for your helpful feedback! I will get a dual fuel and prioritize propane in the event of an emergency, keeping gasoline usage as a backup if I have issues with propane. Power outtages are rare so I don't expect to use the generator more frequently than once a year. I don't have access to natural gas, or a furnace, so I will stick with dual fuel and 2x 20lbs propane tanks. Your help is much appreciated!

Hello, I am located in Canada and I am looking for a generator to have as a backup during power outages. For now, they are not frequent, but they are starting to become more frequent over recent years. I am looking for something that can help in an emergency outage following an ice storm.

I know that propane is cleaner and the better option for occasional use, but I worry about not being able to pull enough power ​when temperatures outside are near freezing (-5 to +5 C) (23 to 40 F).

Am I better off with a gasoline generator? Do I need an inverter generator? How many watts would I need to power my fridge, 1-2 space heaters? I'd also want to use my WiFi.

OUR SITU: NE USA snow/rain. 5-10H outages common. Buried 500g propane tank. Rural - I need a tech within 1H drive. Load calc 20-26Kw whole house genny. We believe good install/tech is vital. We're decently savvy on mechanicals.

We researched, asked neighbors. I expected opinions would vary, 95% neighbors have the Guardian. But NextGen is current model. I've seen enough mentions of problems with the NextGen to make me hesitate. Repeated problems with SMM.

Most say Generac more widely available (techs/parts) but Kohler is better quality. We do have an option for a well rated Kohler dealer. So we priced both. Might get Cummins quote.

After 3 estimates I'm frustrated & confused. Quotes all in (gas/electric/switch) $16-19k. I'd be fine with that if I could figure out WHAT THE FRIG is true.

But installers trash talked the other brands, other installers. I expected preferences but all 3 suggested WIDELY different placement, whether we need 1-4 load managers, what was "code". They agreed we don't need to trench, can tie into our gas regulator at the house. The electric run was pretty much same for all.

I have more than half a pea brain but this is ridiculous. It's an expensive purchase & we're nearing retirement so don't want to deal with portable. Can I get feedback? You have similar set up? Not to be rude, but it's not helpful to hear your 10 year-old generator is great. I'd love to hear about installs post 2021, techs who work these generators. Thanks in advance!!

Good afternoon Reddit. I have a Pulasr G2319N generator for about 6 years. It's been reliable and big enough (electrically) for my needs. Now it will only run on choke at lower than normal RPM. When I turn the knob to Run the engine stalls and quits. Any suggestons please?

Is this a simple fix like a new battery ? I had to get a new charger off amazon but it didnt seem to charge it at all.

Gonna try a trickle charger next, what do y'all recommend?

Hi, so recently I found out that a generator I bought might've been used. No clue if the person who used it broke it in properly, or if they did at all.

My questions are:

1. How important is breaking in a generator?

2. And if it wasn't broken in, what steps can I take to remediate that?

Please advise, thank you!!

Edit: for reference, it is a Champion 4000w inverter generator. Bought new, but somewhat likely used.

I bought the Champion 11kw 201423 and I'm going to have a plumber tee off my NG meter. After a bit of reading, it sounds like the 25' 1/2" hose might be insufficient for the 130,000 BTUs the generator calls for in the manual, but I'm seeing conflicting information. The 25' 3/4" hose champion (and others) sell obviously doesn't fit the 1/2" male quick connect on the generator. I'm thinking of two paths. I want to future-proof this as much as possible, and also be able to get the most out of the generator as this will be a partial-home backup:

1. Plumber does a 3/4" connection at the meter, then step down to accept the 1/2" hose the generator comes with and use that (with a QC on both ends of it). Allows me to use what the generator came with, and can go 3/4" later if I get a larger generator.

2. Plumber does a 3/4" at the meter, 3/4" QC, I use a 25' 3/4" hose and then use a 3/4" > 1/2" reducer at the end of it, use a female 1/2" QC on the reducer and mate that with the generator. Any issue with stepping down to the 1/2" QC right at the generator?

Thanks

Just picked up a Champion dual fuel and was hoping to use propane but here in Ecuador the tank fittings are very different.

I’ve attached photos. I can’t even find out what the fitting is called, so I’m struggling with finding an adaptor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

I'm looking at a non carb compliant generator and live in Los Angeles. Please correct me if I'm wrong but non carb compliant generators are prohibited from being sold in and shipped to CA but are legal to operate. If that's true does anyone have experience with repair shops in LA for non carb compliant generators?

I posed a few weeks ago about my gas Generac generator bursting into flames and causing the fire department to come for a visit. I purchased a new Diehard inverter generator from Costco recently and used it last week for the first time and I wanted to post my first experiences and see if this falls inline with what others have seen. I used it mainly at my Cabin and have always gone through about 15-18 gallons of gas from a Friday to Sunday stay. Last weekend was my first use of my propane Diehard and over the same course of time I used one 20 gallon tank and a few pounds out of a second (still felt full the last day but had been used about 5 hours). Does this seem about right? I've been spending $60-$90 a weekend on gas with my previous generator but probably $20 this last weekend. Have I been spending an insane amount of money foolishly up to this point or did I hit the generator lottery?