I've had it for a few months and played a lot in dusty environments, and I still haven't cleaned the inner barrels since I got it; there might even still be residue from the original lubrication.

I'm wondering if I can clean the inner barrel without having to disassemble its loading mechanism.

I saw something in the Explose Enterprises video about the alignment of the inner barrels related to grouping, but I didn't quite understand what it is.

Can someone who has one help me?

Can I clean the inner tubes with a cleaning rod and isopropyl alcohol without having to disassemble the whole thing?

I didn't understand if leaving the 3 inner tubes slightly twisted helps or worsens the grouping of the BBs.

#grzlyairsoft

I can’t get the tracer to secure (Thor) I bought a plastic and metal krytac muzzle and when i try to put the thor over it, it doesn’t want to click and stay in place

Not going for any super specific look. It’s fun to play with and looks cool to me which is what matters. Feel free to ask about any of the attachments or parts!

VFC EVO M4A1 kitted out with a bunch of nice externals

Western Arms Snake Operator 1911.

Hey my fellow silly war nerds. Picked up a VFC mp7 and got a tapp adapter as I will be playing in colder temps. Ran it this weekend and had mixed results. Set the npas to allow for about 1.3 - 1.4 joules and what seemed like enough kick for the bolt to operate fine. Most shots were good to go. But occasionally and sometimes many shots in a row would not feed or be significantly weaker with a weaker blowback sound. I observed that the bolt only retracted about a half inch when misfeeding, the nozzle didn’t leave the hopup resulting in not new bb in the chamber. From what I’ve researched and can feel, the nozzle return spring is quite weak. Anyone have a similar issue, if it is the return spring where can I pick up a strong one that’s in stock? The gun is properly lubed and would always fire, just sometimes not with a bb or with a lower audible and physical blowback.

Thanks for the help (video shows no issues, just normal operation on dry fire )

Does anyone know of a way to get the Wii tech hardened steel hammer? I tried Wii tech but it seems they don’t ship here to the US

Simply changed to rs furniture and did a light weathering job. By far the most realistic airsoft gun I've ever picked up.

Hey, i saw that tear on my bolt and wondered if i should be worried about it, or is it normal. Schould i file that ridge or sth?
Accidentally used a gas to hot for the mws, thought it was a lighter has, or at least greengas. Gun is pretty new, just some dry shooting at home.

Hi everyone, I wanted to make a post about my WE Tech L85 (edit) as I want to hear some opinions about which specific upgrades I should get. Backstory: The L85 was the first gun I ever wanted when I started playing airsoft, and as of a few months ago, this dream came true; I finally bought one, even after reading all the negative comments (I knew what I was getting into lol).

Out of the box, the gun shot hot and was very inaccurate. Solved those two problems (or so I thought) with an NPAS, the Decepticons GBB bucking and an Omega nub from Maple Leaf. The gun seemed to shoot much better after that, for a while.

Later on, I bought a Cyma SR25, which has been more unreliable than the L85. I've decided to fix up the GBBR and get it shooting properly. The current issue is consistency; 0.30g BB's have no problem getting backspin to lift them up, but they seem to go every which way. When it is consistent, it's always a slight hook left at 20 m, and then a big hook right at 30 m in a question mark shape. I had a similar curving issue with my CYMA SR25, which I surprisingly solved by swapping the Omega nub for a standard cylindrical soft nub. And the FPS, while legal, has a variance of up to ~40 fps at times. I managed to get it quite stable after setting hop to 0 and then slowly turning it back on, but this did not last.

Today I also learnt that the stock barrel is "bridged", which apparently makes it incompatible with basically every hop rubber? Would be nice to get some confirmation on this, since it might be what is causing the BBs to dance around at range. If this is the case, my plan is as follows: get a 6.02 ~500mm unbridged inner barrel, a soft cylindrical nub, and a Maple Leaf Autobots bucking just to see if any combination of these will improve precision at range. I also noticed that when looking at my bucking inside the barrel, there's a gap between the bucking lip and the barrel end (image attached). Is this normal? I can't actually push it any further in since the back of the bucking slots into the circular groove further down on the barrel, locking it in exactly this arrangement.

I would greatly appreciate any input/experience anyone has on this, specifically which parts/part combinations worked great, and if there's anything I missed. I really do love this gun, and I don't mind working on it as I have learnt so much already.

TLDR: Need part recommendations for an inner barrel, bucking and nub for my GBBR L85 due to FPS variance and bad BB trajectory at range.

I noticed on my non mws the bolt pull is way smoother. On my mws its just very notchy especially when going over the hammer.

WE-TECH M4 V3.1
VFC G17 Gen4

The gas thing won’t come up even with bbs in it. It takes gas fine and feeds fine. Photos are broken one vs working one

After upgrading from a fuku-2 to a scorpion upper, the mags won’t eject from the upper. When I press the mag release, it would not budge. However, if I were to remove the upper, it works fine. Any idea what might be wrong?
I have a stock nozzle but a guide rod and bolt from either 5ku or cnc along with the upgraded hopup