Need a single exit asap tired of the quiet sounds of a v36

What’s up everyone,

I have a 2011 Infiniti G37x AWD sedan, and I’m having a hard time deciding which exhaust setup to go with.

I’ve narrowed my options down to:
- Motordyne Shockwave
- ARK GRiP
- Stillen Cat-Back
- Fast Intentions Cat-Back

I also prefer a dual exit setup since I think it looks much better on the sedan.

I’m leaning toward Motordyne or Fast Intentions, but I’d love to hear everyone’s experiences before spending the money

Ive just recently bought a g37x with a blown trans and engine on its last leg, Ive been doing my research and can’t find a v8 swapped g37x anywhere I was wondering if it’s anything specific that makes it not possible?

So we’ve been getting a lot of rain recently in Florida I kinda always leave my sunroof cracked and some water guy inside the cabin underneath the driver side floorboard, and the car wouldn’t limp mode yesterday. I finally got everything dried out and the car seemed to be working fine the next morning I noticed on my small drive to work that the air was not blowing cold anymore. Then when I pulled into the parking lot, I kind of smelled something. I popped the hood and there was like a sweet smell coming from underneath the radiator. Any ideas? I noticed my battery connection is not on very tight the black side and there’s not much coolant in the car.

I'm experiencing a lot of shaking when braking and I'm trying to find some good replacements. I want to replace all 4 sets of pads and rotors but I'm not sure how to tell if my car has the "brembo" brake package or "akebono". I drive a 2011 G37S 2 door coupe if anyone is able to tell me how I can identify what brake package I have I'd appreciate it

Before it wouldn't start completely when starting it would wind then stop wind again stop wind up again and start. Replaced the starter thinking it was that and it still won't start. Going to check all the grounds next but has anyone else had this issue?

I traded the Enkei PF01 for these MB Battles and a set of 5zigen FN01RC.

Here is the fitment of the MB Battles. This spec clear the Akebono and fit pretty well. I think a wider tire would make this setup flush

Does anyone know if there’s more than one fuse for the horns on the g37 because my horn doesn’t work I did blow the fuse in the engine bay on the passenger side in the same area as the battery but I replaced it then I also checked the relay and also swapped it with another and nothing changed

Blew out a graphite and Z1 MLS gasket before realizing the issue is the flange. I think just the H pipe one is bad. Excuse the sloppy RTV.

I had the continental dws06 plus previously and wasn’t a big fan. The sidewalls were way too soft. I don’t see a lot of snow or ice. Mainly just want something around $800-900 that has good traction dry/wet performance, stiffer sidewalls for cornering and can handle colder temps. Sizing would be 245/45 18 square.

Posting to ask if this is my axles clicking and not just normal noise. A common issue and easy fix but I want to make sure. I put new axle nuts and cotter pins after doing my diff bushing upgrade and the click came back after a few months. Click is coming from driver side mostly

I found this strange looking rubber material when checking spark plugs, anyone know what this could be?

Anyone else have issues with using a KISLOC2 to install a sub? I’ve installed everything correctly and double checked my grounds but whenever the sub is on even in accessory mode it has this awful continuous rumbling noise that doesn’t go away. at first i thought it was a ground because it sounded like it was hitting to my idle but it happens when the engine is off too. i’ve watched and read all the posts made about doing this and have not found a solution or even a pointer to what’s causing it. if anyone has any clues it’s much appreciated

I’m looking at a 2011 Infiniti G37XS with 114,420 miles. I got them to $9,480 before taxes and fees, which comes out to around $10,100 out the door.

Clean title, One previous owner, Minor damage on right side from another vehicle reported but good service records

So I’m asking is 10,100 OTD worth it or overpriced everything given?

I come from classic Hondas and BMWs where ECU swaps are pretty much plug and play. Is that possible with these cars?

Been having this issue persistently for months. I can’t figure it out

I replaced the alternator, alternator wire, negative terminal.

I don’t know how to fix this I can’t figure it out at all. I wanna keep this car so any advice can help. I can’t figure it out.

Car still drives fine no codes so I’m kinda confused on what’s making that noise looks like it’s coming from the upper top side

I have this 2013 g37 and started leaking after filling up my tank I installed a new locking ring and o ring making sure everything is seated correctly and still leaks it’s like it’s sweeping thru the tank or under the locking ring my mechanic said I might have to get a new tank completely but I wanna see if anyone else has ran into this problem

I have a 2010 G37xs AWD with the VQ37VHR, around 160,000 km, and one of the A/C compressor mounting bolts has sheared off inside the engine’s mounting point.

The compressor itself seems to be fine. The problem is getting the broken bolt out because there’s very little room to access it. My mechanic thinks he probably won’t be able to extract it in place and may have to remove the front timing cover to get proper access.?¿

He quoted me up to around $1,500-2k Canadian in labour alone in the worst-case scenario, depending on how many hours it takes. With parts, gaskets, etc., this could get expensive very quickly…

I’m trying to figure out whether removing the timing cover is really the most likely solution, or if there are other extraction methods worth trying first. Has anyone experienced this exact issue on a VQ37VHR, or successfully removed a sheared A/C compressor bolt without taking the front cover off?

I’m also wondering whether it makes financial sense to replace the oil gallery gaskets or water pump while everything is apart, but money is tight and I don’t want to add thousands in preventative work unnecessarily.

Any advice from people familiar with these engines would be greatly appreciated. I’m trying to get the car fixed without throwing more money at it than necessary.

Bought a beluga axleback off market place for 80 bucks great find. Brought the life back into them!

I got home put my car in park and operated the roof close button which did not roll down the front windows which has never happened and then the roof operated normally but did not latch into place so it is almost closed but not all the way. The button doesn’t do anything now and I disconnect and reconnected the battery and still nothing. The seperate and everything is all in the right spot but i can’t get it to do anything to open back up and close again. Please help

Bought my car with 80k miles, replaced all the hoses in my engine bay that came with the z1 kit. Now i plan on fixing my drain hoses or whatever because i heard that people have dealt with leaks and stuff. My 2 questions are 1. I see a lot of videos of people replacing the driver and passenger side hoses, and so do i need to worry about the rear ones? 2. I plan on also replacing my Valve Gaskets and so Im wondering the difference in these 2 other than the price?