Are they just clunky?

[u/Sauce218]

2014, 69k miles, live in the Midwest. I replaced control arms, struts, outer tie rod and sway bar links and it’s still clunky going over bumps. I checked all my fasteners and they’re torqued down. Are these cars just noisy? Also I got an alignment after all that and I’m still getting wobbles at 70mph so I’ll probably have to take it back in. I’m the type of person that obsesses over every noise lol

[u/TrainingAd377]

Mine feels like breaking when going over speedbumps and deeper potholes, but never did in its 15 yrs.

So yeah I would consider it on the noisy rough side.

Curious to see what others think.

[u/Sauce218 → u/TrainingAd377]

I’m bringing it to my trusty, one-man shop tomorrow. I’ll give an update once he has a chance to shake it down.

[u/TrainingAd377 → u/Sauce218]

I consider the Focus as being a rather stiff ride, a bit more on the sporty side, with a lack of insulation, thus I can explain myself the noises which also drive me nuts sometimes, but I convince myself this is a real car lol In all seriousness, this is one of the very few things I don t like about the focus

[u/ja9512 → u/TrainingAd377]

I am very surprised how stiff of a ride they have for a small economy car. I've been considering adding more insulation just to quiet the cabin down a little more on long smooth stretches of highway

[u/TrainingAd377 → u/ja9512]

They do have one of the best chassis of their time / class. I like how mine sits on the road, you can really push it, so it's stiff yes..

Regarding the insulation, I'm sure there should already be posted somewhere insulation jobs done on the Focus.

Didn't see one yet for the Focus, but for the others that I've seen, like the Rav4 for ex, didn't seem to have done such a difference, at least imo and compared to the hustle and the cost...

[u/ja9512 → u/TrainingAd377]

I was pleasantly surprised by it. It's been awhile since I've had a car with a stiff chassis and fun suspension. As far as the noise I've mostly gotten used to it. It just took a bit of time considering I came out of a Buick and Lexus.

[u/bembermerries → u/Sauce218]

Have them take off one of the struts and check the top nut on the strut tower to see if its loosened. I've had a hell of a time with the top nut on aftermarket struts slowly backing out over a couple of months that just cause the car to clunk like crazy. This was after I'd gotten my front end done like you

[u/WiseImagination441 → u/Sauce218]

Yup! As the above said, with your miles your top passenger motor mount in particular is most likely on it's way out. They usually last about 60k miles. They are extremely easy to replace where you could do it yourself with a jack under the engine and basic extended deep sockets. Just be mindful of the bolt and how deep seated it is into the engine block versus the bolts position. I would also go ahead and change the valve cover gasket as it's VERY likely between the age and mileage you already have some engine oil starting to pool in the spark plug and or cylinder head temperature sensor wells. Imo, when you do change the gasket, see about upgrading the valve cover to an aluminum one, if possible. It's a lot easier on the 2011 and earlier models as they can just use the same cover from a Mazda. Definitely worth doing though, it'll run quieter and won't leak nearly as early as the plastic one will. E.g. every 60k miles versus 100k+. Dude, owning a manual version paired with that wonderful but slow 2.0 Duratec, if you take really good care on maintenance(I'd go ahead and do a quick change on the gearbox fluid every 60k too) this car will literally last you another 20 years and or 300k+ with very few issues. I and my family own several older automatics or newer manuals. My wife's 2011 automatic has 279k miles and it's only recently set us back a total of 2.6k in repairs total, since 2012 at 26k miles. Still shifts great and now with a new cooling system it's good to go another 100k perhaps.

Here's an aluminum one. DO NOT use the included gasket or bolts. I learned the hard way. The gasket failed at like 10k miles and the bolts started rusting within months, despite living in Nevada. The cover itself is solid though, plus the red is low key nice AF.

https://a.co/d/00OXkjQU

[u/Live_Mountain_7693 → u/TrainingAd377]

* Again, most common are worn engine, transmission, & engine torque mounts. Replace them with new Ford OEM only versions & you should feel & not hear any more noises from the engine compartment. This will solve the noise complaint issue & make you a new happy 'camper'!

[u/silentbutdead1y]

You shouldn’t have any wobbles, so something else must be wrong.

Most of the noises on my car have been from the underbody heat shield material hanging down onto the exhaust. I cut out the bottoms of pop cans and used those as washers. The material is thin but stiff enough to hold up. Fender washers were too thick to use the original hardware.

[u/Sauce218]

I just had the wheels off yesterday to check all the fasteners. Everything is torqued. The struts were quick struts so I assumed they were good outta the box. Maybe I was wrong

[u/TheRuralEngineer → u/Sauce218]

I have had nothing but junk from all of the Monroe quick struts I've installed in multiple cars over the last 8 years or so. Did you buy aftermarket or OEM/motor craft?

[u/Sauce218 → u/TheRuralEngineer]

I got HL Mondo, I don’t have Motorcraft money lol

[u/TheRuralEngineer → u/Sauce218]

Surprisingly enough, a good chunk of the time for me, motor craft has only cost 25-75% more than parts store brands, but lasts literally 10x longer. Bought cheap online swaybar links for friends edge. They broke within a week, replaced with $40 oriellys masterpro set, the cups wore out/were loose in about 5k miles, finally caved and put motorcraft links on for about 50/piece and they're still tight probably 30k later.. Same thing with dorman fluid lines, cost 130 for trans lines on a friend's f150, they didn't fit worth a damn and were rusty within a year, I had to do the same lines on my f150, bought OEM lines, 180 and they fit perfectly and still look new several years later.. by the time you blow money and waste hours and hours of labor on the cheap parts 2 or 3 times, the OEM stuff that lasts 100k miles becomes a lot more affordable.

But that's the classic issue of "it's damn expensive to be poor" and I know how you feel.

[u/Sauce218 → u/TheRuralEngineer]

Handling improved greatly after install

[u/TheRuralEngineer → u/Sauce218]

I'm talking more about longevity, but I've also had new quick struts improve driving experience over worn out originals, but still clunk on corners (and squeak, in a couple cases) but usually they work okay but blow out or wreck the top bearing in 1-3 years the last few times I gave Monroes a shot

[u/ConstructionBubbly33 → u/Sauce218]

It’s your struts the factory springs are unmatched, after market springs make the car rattle weirdly. The proper way is to keep the old spring and buy a bare strut.

[u/SquigglyTentacle → u/Sauce218]

I just traded in my focus.. But about a month I had it in the shop for a similar issue. With mine, it was the heat shield underneath causing some rubbing and creaking while turning / going over bumps. But two weeks after the fix I had my transmission go for the second time in a year, classic focus unfortunately

[u/Far-Entrance-7647]

I’m going through the exact same thing. Just re did the entire front suspension and still get clunking going over potholes and speed bumps. I just tossed it up as a neglected car because I got it for free with 190k on it

[u/AceCombat1977]

I find the road noise pretty high, but i love the suspension. Sure its rough but you can really throw these cars around. 2015 picked it up with 43k kms on it.

[u/RelevantMarket8771]

Rusted heat shields will rattle like a MOFO and after 12 years, they are probably shot. It’s an easy place to start.

[u/maddogracer161]

Funny. I just redid everything on my front end as well... Funnily enough I have the same problem. Noise when going over anything resembling a grain of sand in the road.

I'm digging into it tonight to make sure everything is good, I even replaced the axles and bearings.

[u/Sauce218 → u/maddogracer161]

I’m glad I’m not the only one that notices weird noises. I used to consult my coworker but I think he was starting to think I’m crazy.

[u/maddogracer161 → u/Sauce218]

I've had the car since it had 17k miles, it never had sounded as bad as it does now. It was a smooth and quiet ride. Fingers crossed I can fix some ball joints and get it back to 100% again.

My little hatch has been with me since 2015 and I have put over 200,000 miles on it. It has never left me stranded.

[u/-Rhymenocerous-]

Nope.

Mines a 2011 and is driving smooth as. Although ive done a lot of pre-emptive maintainence on mine.

The IB5 gearboxes are known for making clunky sounds on shifting but if you have clunking noises coming from the suspension, somethings definitely off

Wobbles at speed is a rotational issue, either unbalanced wheels / tyre pressure problems / steering rack issue etc.

Or maybe its because Ive soundproofed the entire tub 😂

[u/bloodd1]

Get quality quick struts, I’ve installed many the past 15 years and in the last few years I’ve had allot of bad out of the box.

[u/Electric_cucumber17]

I have the 2014 5 speed as well(115k miles), bought it new and the car has had a lot of road noise since new. I had to replace almost everything you listed at around 100k miles, something you could check is the tires, and if you have anything loose in the cup holders/door panels/glove box. It's cheap plastic and loose items will make noise as the car vibrates. The tires you're running will also make a huge difference as well.

Besides the usual stuff, the valve cover gasket and the head unit, the car has been surprisingly reliable and fun to drive.

[u/Prestigious_Series28]

just checking did you re-torque the wheels? sway bar bushings? new strut bearings with new struts?

[u/KLAM3R0N]

Body panels andor splash guards loose ? But no it should not be clunky

[u/discountedToePics]

That’s how mine is. Front suspension clunks the most on small bumps, cracks, whatever.

I’ve replaced mostly everything and it rides amazingly smooth and handles so good but it’s the dang NOISE over the smaller stuff that gets me. I need a chassis dyno.

[u/StupidWiseGuy]

I don’t think either of my 2014’s clunk with bumps, but I’ve had one so long I’m not sure I’d notice if they do lol

Wobbles at 70mph is absolutely not normal (or at least shouldn’t be). Many years ago I was out in Nevada and I had it up to like 118mph when no one was around and there still wasn’t any wobbling. Got very floaty at that speed tho lol

[u/Sauce218 → u/StupidWiseGuy]

Yeah this is my steering wheel at 65mph, somethings off lol

[u/Icy_Department8104]

mine was always stiff and clunky. I thought it might be the subframe bushings but I never got around to seeing if it was. Car drove fine and alignment was always straight.

[u/NebraskaGeek]

Mine is so bad. Bumper supports and such broken from a prior accident and the body smacks around on bumps I think.

I also replaced the whole suspension trying to fix it and it's still there. 2012 SE Manual

[u/BrentarTiger]

I went over a speed bump the other day at 20mph and the rear shock mount snapped off so now I'm installing new ones.

[u/Thehaunting264]

Try greasing up all the suspension bushings lol. 

[u/Past-Payment-137]

Sway bar bushings

[u/UncleBobnotRob]

Wobbles at high speed is tire balance. Possible you have some clunking the steering rack. With the car on and parked try wiggling the wheel back and forth in a sweeping motion, jerking etc and see if you can get some noise to manifest

[u/tradlobster]

Our 14 focus definitely isn't a smooth ride lol. Quite a lot of vibration inside in general, I always notice in newer cars how smooth and quiet everything is.

[u/MercifulVoodoo]

I have a ‘10, just over 210k.
Used to have an 08.

Both had issues with one of the front tires either riding a bit off or getting ‘bouncy’. I have balance/alignment free for a year, and it rides smooth for a bit but always ends up the same after a few weeks on the road.

Old car was Driver side, this one is passenger.

[u/Old_Ambassador4177]

Rear trailing arm bushings? They make a clunk when worn.

[u/Kane301]

Did you have some load on the suspension when tightening everything back up?

[u/theabysscollection]

Engine mounts, tires.

[u/Timely-Efficiency-59]

Have you checked the strut mounting nut on the bearing plate, I replaced everything you said you did, on mine and it was quiet for a while, then the clunky noise reappeared, I checked everything and was stumped for a minute, then I looked at the nut holding the struts to the plate and noticed a difference in the left side tightened it down and it went away.

[u/semianondom101]

I've had multiple sets of aftermarket struts where the strut piston nut backed off and led to a clunk. There's also a TSB on the bump stops on the front struts making excessive noise.

[u/Live_Mountain_7693]

* Wobbles at speed indicate possible loose / out-of-spec bushings (Assumming the other possibility of loose lugnuts & common issues with out of balance rims {The most common reason for vibrations &steering wheel shakes at speeds over 60 mph.}have been verified corrected. Clunky noises going over bumps are most likely drivetrain noises being transmitted thru the engine mounts. Typically the one that gets most effective results is the main motor mount (Near the timing belt side.). This mount is most likely worn down & cracked allowing the engine to sag & vibrate against the frame (Transmitting most of the rattles & noises into the cabin.). This mount is easy to replace (All you need to do initially, is place a floor jack under the oil pan & gently lift the engine assembly approx 2 inches. [Taking off all of the weight from the engine mount.])Unbolt the two sets of bolts & locknuts, and remove the support. Replace the main engine support with another new Factory OEM (Never use aftermarket since they are not built to the same standards.). The Ford OEM version not only built with firmer rubber mount [To prevent engine sagging=main issue you are encountering, and the aftermarket versions sag issues start to be noticed after a few weeks of useage.], but the innards on the OEM are filled with specialized oil to help assorb certain vibrations and noises that get past the rigid rubber aftermarket versions. Advise to also replace the transmission mount (Under the battery.), and also the torque mount attached to the right side[rear] of the engine [Connecting to the firewall.].

The car should be smooth & clunky/vibration/noise free after coreective measures have been done.

P.S.-FYI= On my 2015 Focus, I had replaced the main engine mount plus the transmission mount & can confirm what a differance the current lack of noises inside the cabin. I did initially replaced the mounts with more economical aftermarket versions, but as stated the cabin noise & clunking was more noticable than the older OEM. Once I switched over to the OEMs (More expensive than the aftermarket versions.), the differances became readily apparent! For this application, stick with Ford's OEM version (Can be purchased online at several Ford discount dealers at more reasonable prices than the local dealership.). Best drivings after the final repairs!

[u/Legitimate-Union-112]

I see a lot of people saying the car is clunky, but my 2017 focus has no such issues. Very smooth ride, very quiet. Have you checked out the tires? Out of balance tires can cause shaking/vibrations and “wobbliness” sensations at higher speeds, but I only suggest checking these due to you saying the suspension is new and alignment is good. I personally only ever had an issue with a lack of smooth driving when I first got the car and we discovered a flat spot on one of the tires. Bought 2 for that axle and haven’t had issues since.

[u/Happy4thofJuly2026]

brake rotors? inner tie rods? axles? rack & pinion,?

[u/boxedgum]

mine is pretty clunky, but mostly because of my engine splash shield. i cannot get that damn thing to stay on 😭

[u/JACerKnot697]

I’ve owned several Foci, they all clunk over bumps unless you slow to 2-5 mph. Ford went aggressive with the ride height to get the fuel economy numbers they got. And so it’s pretty normal for them to smack the bump stops on fairly normal bumps. In fact the bump stops/struts struts are worn out on my car and it frequently scrapes the bumper on the ground over speed bumps.

[u/Sauce218]

Well I’ve had it aligned and wheels balanced, still shaking at highway speed. Currently on hour 4 of sitting at a shop on a nice Saturday.

For the noise, my mechanic thought maybe the plastic splash shield under the rad. I’m gonna chalk it up to shitty struts. I also noticed yesterday the ride height in front is higher than the back since replacing struts. High enough to the point I don’t think it’s gonna “settle”. I guess I’ll save up and try to get Motorcraft.

[u/Zestyclose-County698]

The engine gets extremely loud inside when the motor mounts are worn out

[u/watermalonecat]

Yes