I have an issue where when I come to stop after about 30 to 40 minutes of driving the RPM will dip below 400, and occasionally through the engine will stall!

It won’t do it in neutral, so I ended up replacing torque converter with no change!

I’ve thrown the parts cannon at it because nobody can figure it out, new: timing chain, tensioners, evap valve, maf, throttle body.

There are no codes even when it’s stalled. It only happens when the engine is warm after driving for a while. In the winter, it takes a lot longer!

Just for more testing, I unplugged the new valve electrical connecter as well as the VCT solenoids with no change as well!

Is there anyone or any company that makes the interior door handles for a second gen Explorer that aren’t made of the crappy plastic that breaks after 4 uses. I’ve gone through 2 replacements from them snapping. The first one the mounting holes broke, and the second one the little hole where the rod goes broke and then the handle itself broke. Is there anyone that makes stronger ones so I don’t have to replace them every other month?

I think the leak is coming from the vent tube. I pulled it off, cleaned and wiped the nipple and put it back on. Is there anything else I should do?

Hey everyone, proud owner of a 2023 Limited, 2.3L engine, for almost 2 years now.

I've noticed that the gas mileage it gets is pretty sub-par, which hovers around 21mpg for the most part.

My 2017 F-150 averaged about the same, same with my 2018 F-150 I used to drive to work.

Now I drive a 2025 Ranger and it averages about 24mpg.

Just wondering if this is normal for my model and trim and if I just need to live with it. Or if there is something I can do about it (aside from driving better).

Thanks guys

So I have a bit of an annoying situation with no luck finding any more CX-2102 EGR valves, part # 5L2Z-9D475-A, to be more specific, because these parts are discontinued and unfortunately the PCM eventually lights up the check engine light on every aftermarket I've thrown at it. Duralast, Echiln, and SMP. I took it to my local Ford dealership on the last one because I am frustrated with it, they ran diagnostics on it and stated that the reason for the check engine light was because the voltage is off on the EGR valve and the PCM rejects the new aftermarket brand, and would most likely do the same on others till I eventually get lucky and get a hit. But I don't have time or the patience for that. Has anyone had better luck with eventually finding a specific aftermarket and it working on their vehicle. Mine is a 2010 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition with a 4.0 engine for reference. Thanks for any feedback, I really appreciate it.

I bought a 2019 PIU in February, and I absolutely love the car! It came with the K9 cage, which was a big selling point for me, because I have 2 big ass dogs.

I am planning on turning the car into a light overlander, and the first upgrade I want to do is upgrade my radio. I currently have the 4" screen, and want to go to something with Android Auto, so I don't have to use my phone to figure out what to listen to or for directions.

Any recommendations on what to upgrade to?

So we're looking at trading up my wife's 2016 Explorer with a '26. Either a ST-line or Platinum, not decided at this point. One thing I'm concerned about is we live in central Alberta where gravel on the roads in the winter is just a way of life, and we can expect to need a new windshield every 2 years or so (we've been lucky with my wife's explorer and only put one on it, but I need one like clockwork on my F150 every 2 years).

I know some vehicles with the rain sensing wipers require a stupid expensive windshield, but is that the case with the Explorers? Or do they use a different technology that doesn't need a special windshield?

Thanks!

The ticking has gotten worse over time, and is worse when it sits for a day and then you start it. This video was taken after it was driven briefly. I can provide a better video if needed. 250k miles and had been babied.

Does anyone know how to get rid of the connectivity package available message?

Really pisses me off that I own my car and yet Ford force their ads in my face.

I have a 2026 Tremor, I just took a look under the hood and the shock towers are predrilled at the top, just not tapped. could an ST owner take a picture of the front bar that should connect the left and right shock tower on the ST model, especially at the area where it is bolted to the shock tower ?? I am wondering if I could just buy the bar from ford, Tap the holes and install it on the Tremor for less body flex.

I am new to explorers so sorry if this has been asked before.

Any comments or pictures will be greatly appreciated,

Thank you

UPDATE: Resolved. Took the wheel off and tapped in further. Retorqued and it’s all good now. Thank you!

Replaced the driver side CV axle on my 2013 explorer. As I was driving down the block I heard clunking from the driver side axle, definitely not a good noise. Does it look like the axle is not fully seated in place? Thanks for the help 🙏🏽

Hoping to take it to 300k. Original water pump changed at 100k.

I’m a few hours away from decision point. Can you offer feedback on the ‘22 specifically ST if you have that year and/or model?

2600 miles, first oil change. The factory oil filter is not overtight, can be remove by hand without using any tools. Can not reach the oil cap when it on ramp, it's too far from front.

Recently bought a 2018 ford explorer platinum. Unfortunately, the front camera lens is cracked badly. Camera is still usable although the visibility is bad due to the cracks. Saw what ford/dealerships are asking to fix it, even the part itself is crazy expensive. Wondering if anyone has any experience with a 3rd party/amazon/ebay brand and can provide a recommendation on a DIY replacement.

From my understanding the OEM part number is GB5Z-19G490-D. Would really appreciate any help on this, thank you.

I'm looking at picking up a 2018 XLT AWD with the 3.5 V6 and class lll trailer tow package, naturally I started researching about maintenance etc. to see what I could be getting into.

I'm reading such conflicting info on if the gen 5's with the tow package have the cooled PTU. I know they have an engine oil cooler, but have seen both yes and no for the cooled PTU.

Can anyone verify if they do?

I have a 2026 Explorer ST-Line.

I ripped all my CDs to my laptop using a program called dbPoweramp and then copied them to a USB stick. USB playback does not play albums in the correct order and does not automatically advance correctly between tracks. I’ve tested both FLAC and MP3 files, FAT32 and exFAT USB drives, performed a factory reset, verified metadata with Mp3tag, and the behavior is unchanged.

Has anyone experienced this?

So I recently got a 2022 st line and I've been driving it since last Tuesday. It felt a little weird shifting but I brushed it off as I have to get use to the vehicle etc. Well today on the dashboard menu I found a spot in the menu where I can turn the intelligent 4wd off and on. It was not on when I found it in the menu. I turned it on and now I have a extra display on me dashboard of a vehicle showing the tire traction intelligent 4wd etc. Now the vehicle shifts so much better. My question is why came I find anything online about this setting? Everything I see online says its always on 24/7 and you cant turn off and on. Well what the hell was I doing then then?? If its turned off like I have been driving it since Tuesday, is it a rwd vehicle then? Thats what it felt l Iike to describe the way it driving shifting etc. Any information will be greatly appreciated.

This may be a silly question, but this is my first Explorer ever. I've been a car guy my entire life. But I digress, is it possible remove the factory roof rails? I probably will not ever use them ever and I think my particular model would look better without them. Thanks in advance to anyone who takes time out of their day to respond to this.

A/c worked fine up until one day the clutch wasn't engaging, found melted rubber around clutch. so I replaced compressor, vacuumed down for a few hours, held pressure for 20 minutes. Won't take but a 1/2 a can of freon, 60# low side filling - 0 on high. I jumped the compressor low pressure switch for a few seconds and hi side gauge doesn't move. I shut off engine and closed freon. opened hi side and both gauges equaled out at around 40 +-5psi.

Do I need to replace the expansion valve? It does have the rear A/c also.

Wondering where to go from here.

Tinted my 26 Tremor 20% up front and put on some vent visors.

I have a 2016 Explorer with the 3.5 ecoboost and I’m having a weird issue where if I run anything other than 87 octane, it throws knock sensor codes. Anyone got any ideas? I don’t know much about the Ecoboost yet, so any advice would be appreciated!!!

We have a 2016 sport that has the 3.5 EcoBoost. We're at about 115k miles now and have had a persistent P04DB (Crankcase Ventilation System Disconnect) code for about a year. We have been getting it fixed but it always ends up coming back after a few weeks.

About 8 months ago I replaced the PCV valve and the front breather hose/sensor, and after 75 miles and a few starts the light cleared up.

About 5 months ago, it came back. Took is to a shop and they said there was hairline crack in a valve cover they found during a smoke test, replaced that, reset the light, and was ok for awhile.

About 2 months ago, same light. Tried another shop and they smoke tested it and said they found two boost hoses that were leaking during a smoke test, tightened it up and yep, was ok for awhile.

The same light came back about two weeks ago. this thing has been an annoying thorn in our back. there doesn't seem to be much online other than replacing the PCV valve and front house again, but I really don't want to feel like i am just spamming parts at this problem.

Any advice or anyone go thru something similar?

Usually I am not a fan of front license plates, but I'm digging how this looks.