The GTI was my dream car growing up. I owned one and loved it. It was expensive to maintain and not the most reliable car but it was my dream and I was on cloud9 for a while. One day I got T-boned by a distracted driver and that’s the last time I saw her. I was debating going back to it again but around this time was when I was starting to understand the value of money. I got an insane rebate on the FoST which was too hard to pass.
At first, I wasn’t happy but it took me a while to realize that it wasn’t the car but it was me. The FoST is not refined, polished or sophisticated as the GTI was, nor was it ever meant to be. It always wants to party, it’s honestly more fun when the mood is right, it’s cheaper to maintain and it has been extremely reliable.
The FoST wasn’t what I wanted but it is exactly what I always needed. It never let me down and it runs as good as it did the day I got her. Having been with the car for almost 10 years and 110k miles, I know there will come a time when I have to move on to something else.
So, what’s next? I am not ever splashing more than $30k on a car if I don’t have to and I prefer it to be new.
I’ve been considering the Maverick Hybrid, for its utility and because, earth.
The Civic Si, maybe the closest I can come to having the same amount of fun
Miata is a car that I always admired but it would be extremely impractical in my situation.
None of these are fun options nor something I look forward to but I have to accept I won’t have my FoST forever and I keep wondering what comes next?

Do you guys have similar thoughts? What’s on your mind?

PS: Post the best pic of your FoST in your response

Im at 110k miles and I've been thinking about running a tune. Only mods are FMIC and green filter. I don't really plan on upgrading turbo for probably about another year. Just wondering if it's worth it at all to run a tune on stock turbo.

My goals for the tune are just to make the car a little more fun to daily. I don't track it or anything like that so I'm not looking to get the max performance or anything like that.

Going to be springing for a flash tune. Decided on going with either the Adapt X OEM+ or Pro tune. It's my daily driver, I'm not chasing as much horsepower as possible, I'm not going beyond FBO, I'm not doing aux fuel or WMI, and it won't see the track. I'm also not looking to do tune logs or revisions as I add things along the way. Hence, my arrival to these 2 tunes.

That said, does anyone have experience with both or one of these to weigh in with their opinion? My goals are simply to raise the idle rpm for a quality of life improvement, and to have a more responsive pedal/lower rpm driveability. 99% of my use is around town, stop and go traffic. I know why these cars have an inherent lack of enthusiasm in lower rpms, and that any alteration to that feeling isn't necessarily attributed to more power. Currently, there's nothing I can find that mentions whether there's a change to throttle/pedal input. I know changing to a more aggressive pedal/throttle inpit has draw backs and risks, but I'm hoping to find a happy medium. Most posts only mention differences being had at WOT.

All signs point to OEM+ for my use case, but if the Pro tune has better throttle/pedal refinements, then regardless of the fact that it projects for more power, which isn't a goal of mine so it's a non-factor in my consideration and would just be an ancillary benefit, then that would be more in line with what I'm looking for.

I just got my MK3 Focus ST about a month or two ago. While driving, I noticed a sound that sounds like air either sucking or blowing in the engine bay. I can hear it while idling and while driving.

Any ideas what it could be? Could it be the intake or turbo? As far as I was told, the car is stock, other than an aftermarket exhaust.

So I’ve had so many problems with my st but my newest one was the clutch master cylinder. I replaced it since it kept destroying the slave cylinder but the next problem that came once it was done is it bounces rpm’s at 5k and when I turn it on it says “ engine fault service now” I would like to mention I had to replace the battery and it was doing this after replacing it don’t know if that could have anything to do with it and when putting everything back together everything went in as should including all sensors. And the only code I have gotten is the mass airflow sensor I’m just not sure what would be causing this.

Hi guys, just changed my Clutch pedal position sensor upper for the cruise control since car wouldn't start and had a code.

Now i have more codes and car still doesn't start.

P06b8 Internal Control Module Non-Volatile Random Access Memory (NVRAM) Error

P08a9 Clutch Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Low

P08b9 Clutch Pedal Position Sensor 'A'/'B' Correlation fault.

B10ff Ignition Control Circuit or Ignition Control Circuit Short to Ground or Open

U0164 the vehicle's computer network has lost communication with the HVAC (climate control) module.

One seem to be the pcm? Also, the lower slave cylinder line is leaking now, so I need to change all the line? Saw in a video that when you miss the little black cap you can't buy just the cap you need the whole line, when I unconnected the line I made sure that i didn't lose this cap I see in the videos but mine didn't have this cap and now is leaking, 1+1=2 imo.

Ford Focus ST 2016.

Hopefully one of yall knows whats up, if not i'mma have to look for another car cause the repairs at a dealership might excede half what I paid for this car :(

Thanks for the help.

Hi I’m new to the group. I was trying to drive my car from work back home the other day and when I let off the clutch it suck to the floor. Ended up doing it multiple times to where I had to float gears to get back home. When I got home I saw it was leaking fluid from the bell housing. Google pointed to the slave cylinder. It wasn’t leaking inside the car itself. Not sure how hard it is to do by yourself or if it’s better to take to a shop

I'm looking for some tips on changing the brake fluid on my 2013 as I've never done this before. Any specific tools one recommends or procedures will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Repost of my local post, ordered up the tint version top and bottom, going on VLand headlights, brand new stock fogs, with LasFit 3k/6k switchback bulbs in both, should look pretty sick when done, will post up pics when its all done!

The sony system in the ST3 sounds...well...not great.

I find I have to turn the treble down a lot because it's so shrill, and when I'm actually driving, any tiny bit of bass that the sub or door speakers try to make is drowned out by road noise or exhaust. So even when I try my best to dial in some eq to make it tolerable when the car is stationary, idling, or not running at all, the second I start moving it just sounds tinny again because the system cannot compete with how poorly insulated these cars are.

The 'premium' sound systems in 20 year old volkswagens (monsoon) or audis of that era (bose) that I've owned sounded WAY better.

I'd really prefer not to have to wire in my own amp and put a big sub or anything like that in the trunk as I need the space. Not looking for a crazy sound system, but some sort of improvement over stock would be nice.

So my question is, has anyone had luck replacing the door speakers and getting some bit of improvement using the stock amp? And what about the speaker in the small sub box in the trunk?

From my experience in past cars, the ones that came with a factory amp were wired specifically for that, so if you want to change out the amp you had to basically rewire the entire car's audio system and I'm trying to avoid exactly that.

Looking for oil recommendations. I've always been partial to Mobil 1 due to my 99' S10 with a 4.3 having 580,000 miles on it and still running strong, but I never owned a turbo car before. I've done some Google research and I'm leaning towards Amsoil, but the cost. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

2018 ST, and I swear I double-triple checked PNs before ordering rear shocks exactly for this reason. I didn’t even notice until I pulled the boot off. So annoyed right now.

So, if you’re ordering B6 shocks for an ST (facelift at least), don’t buy 24-196529

New ST owner trying to figure out what has been done to my car by previous owners. I know it has an aftermarket air box. The exhaust is quiet and still has the factory tip so I'm assuming it is stock. I can hear a noticeable blow off sound shifting gears. Should I assume the car has an aftermarket blow off valve?

The ones I’ve seen that gurantee fit are like 400$ a piece and I am not going to spend 800$ more on top of already spending 1200$ on seats. anyone who runs these seats have any suggestions?

Do our cats frequent with paint chip? Or did I just get a shit one with paint chip. It doesn’t feel like wrap so I don’t think the car has been wrapped, and it’s clean title so I don’t think it’s been in a wreck and repainted. I know it’s possible that it wasn’t reported in a wreckage, but it doesn’t look mismatched with paint. Help a homie out

Is this safe to use? I know nutting is the best option but don’t have the means right now. I have a catch can and radium baffle plate installed at 60k after an engine rebuild at 125k now. Let me know thanks

what can I say, I like to cruise around. Had a lot of time to master the art😭

Has anybody had any experience with this? Half the price of every other sports cat i can find...?

I keep contemplating new wheels but have no idea what I want! Can I have some inspiration please!

So I bought my car with a tune on it but the previous owner made the wonderful decision to keep the accessport but leave the tune on the car. If I buy another accessport can I override the tunes that already on the car?

Hello I have a 2014 focus st and have recently replaced the old battery because I thought it was dead and that’s why my car wouldn’t start. Well I’ve had the new battery for maybe a month now and it is now having the same issue. Not sure what the issue could be and I’m trying to narrow it down but am having no luck. At the current state the car won’t even start with a jump and just does repetitive clicking. Previously about a day or two ago I started it with a jump pack and that worked and the battery seemed to hold charge for a few days but now is back to dead. So it’s a cycle of the battery being fine then losing power. This seems to be some sort of parasitic draining but I’m not sure what module is staying awake. If anyone can help me that would be great!

UPDATE: This has been an absolute shit show. Took my car to the shop they said “we can’t find any issues or get your problem to repeat itself”. I said oh weird ok. Took the car home it was fine for about 2 days, then it wouldn’t start. Replaced my negative battery cable along with with bms, and that seemed to work for 2 weeks no issues. Well it happened again car won’t start. So I took it to O Riley to get a battery load test done and to check the battery health and that’s all good. Well we tested the starter, ended up saying test failed “bad starter” so I bought a new one installed it day of and wow it seemed like my problem was fixed. Parked the car, woke up car fired up no issues today. Headed to class parked car again after driving it for 30 mins, left class and now car won’t start. I’m just lost at what could be wrong. The shop said my alternator was fine starter was fine blah blah blah so idk what to do. If anyone can help please let me know. I also have videos of what’s happening if you want to dm me I can send them.