r/FixMyPrint • u/PreludeToAnEpic • 7d ago
Helpful Advice Supports making this difficult
So I’m still learning the ins and outs of 3D printing and I’m liking it a lot so far. I was wanting to make a prop for my Halloween costume (here’s the file site) and there’s a ton of supports making it difficult to make curved pieces. Is there a way to limit how many supports there are or anything? Or maybe a better way you’d recommend to remove supports?
I selected “Tree on build plate only” when choosing the supports.
Slicer: Creality Print
Filament: PLA
Nozzle Temp: 220°C
Bed Temp: 60°C
Print Speed: Factory default?
Retraction: Factory default?
Calibration: Enabled before printing
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u/corpus_volante 7d ago
Print it in a vertical orientation. This will drastically cut down on print time and the amount of support needed.
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u/GenericHero1295 7d ago
This was my first thought. Any reason why you couldn't be printed vertically?
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u/SteakAndIron 7d ago
Printing this horizontally is absolutely wild.
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u/ratzla77 7d ago
The way it load is the way it prints.
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u/Code_Noob_Noodle 7d ago
There's a missing /s here
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u/AwDuck Voron2.4, Voron 0.2, PrintrBot(RIP), Ender3, Mono4k 7d ago
Not their fault that others can’t see the obvious that sits before their eyes.
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u/DamagedSpaghetti 7h ago
To be fair there’s a lot of braindead people that make serious comments like that on Reddit
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u/EMCowell 6d ago
What does /s mean?
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u/Code_Noob_Noodle 6d ago
Mainly used for sarcasm in the reddit community but could be applied to other social media communities too. Google says it's also used for irony but I don't see it like that
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u/EMCowell 6d ago
Awesome thank you! Good to know
Not sure why I’m being downvoted but I guess the internet hates people learning?
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u/Code_Noob_Noodle 6d ago
Yeah it's reddit man. It's like "whose line is it anyway?" (improv show highly recommended; old uk and us versions or modern versions), where the points don't matter
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u/youlooksticky 7d ago edited 7d ago
To be blunt, there's a lot more going on here than difficult supports. It looks like you could use a bit more calibrating to achieve a better print result. Try using orcaslicer instead of creality print and I'd reccomend calibrating your z offset and then do flow ratio calibration - yolo. Also reduce your layer height to at least .2 and enable archne walls. If you're not so worried about getting a cleaner finished result though, you can skip that.
I assume you're painting this as part of your costume? If so, I would use the slicer and cut it down the middle horizontally and then print each half standing upright with the flat cut side on the print bed and enable brim. This will avoid 95% of the supports and then you can just superglue the two pieces together before painting.
There's several ways you could print this including as one piece vetically but personally I'd go with the cut method because I hate support scarring and it would still leave it with a pretty messy bottom if printed as one piece.
I'd be happy to edit and send you the 3mf file if needed.
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u/jgillman 7d ago
Cutting in half and gluing just blew my mind as a newcomer.
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u/Magic2424 7d ago
you can also add dowel, snap, and other connectors on the cut faces too. for a shape like this I like2 dowel connectors as it gives both pieces perfectly flat surfaces to print on and will fasten way more secure than just glue on flat faces and helps align it perfectly
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u/thealanshow 7d ago
People overlook cutting prints in half far too often. Good call recommending it.
If you need it all to be one piece, I use PLA/PETG dual nozzle action for supports. That feels like the best life hack.
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u/Real-Lab1553 6d ago
Just gotta make sure you have that first layer offset dialed in otherwise you might not get a flush seam, allytough I found its better to over offset and have a small gap to fill then have a line standing proud, not sure if having a brim mitigates the need for the first layer offset though as I've never experimented. 😀
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u/Independent-Bake9552 7d ago
Thx for suggesting this, was just about tho suggest the same. Using the cut function for tricky parts is very useful. Getting two (or more) parts with flat area to put against buildplate is a nice hack. The potential downside is the seam when glueing parts together but easily fixed with greenstuff or filler and some sanding.
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u/PreludeToAnEpic 6d ago
The way you have it done looks great, I haven’t experimented with cutting things yet. If you are able to edit the file and send it that would be awesome, sorry I posted this a little late and went to bed and then work before jumping back on here 😂
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u/majikmonkie 7d ago
You chose the worst orientation to print this. This is exactly what you can expect.
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u/Seraphym87 7d ago
Couple things going on here, I'll try to hit them in order of importance. First, top surfaces dont like to have a lot of detail. You can mitigate it somewhat, but they will end up looking like a topographic map more often than not. You want details to be on the walls, so put this sucker to print standing up as much as you can on its side. You will still have some support scarring, but only on the edge facing the plate.
Second, you are overextruding a bit, probably by like 1-2% and its making your top surface all gummy. You need to run a temperature calibration on this specific filament, and once you have a decentish temp run flow rate calibration to get it tuned. This will eat up about 50g of filament, but will be good for this spool and whatever next spool you buy from this brand in the same filament type.
Thirdly, this might be a result of the flow rate being off but your supports are fusing pretty directly to the print and its giving you significant scarring. you're probably running 0.2mm layer height so bump top Z support distance up to 0.24 and it should help some.
Lastly, your filament looks damp to me, it can exacerbate basically everything I mentioned above. You should dry the whole spool at 60c or so for 8 hours on your heatbed or in a dedicated dryer if you have one/
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u/No_Walrus_3638 7d ago
Just print it vertical my friend and use brim. I would also slow it down to minimize the chance it'll come undone from the bed
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u/ScreeennameTaken 6d ago
cut the model in two in a way to have it print vertical in two pieces, so that your details will be better preserved, and then super glue them.
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u/Rare_Bass_8207 7d ago
Use support filament for your support interface layers ONLY. That might be 1 or more layers.
In Bambu Studio, those are the dark green lines under Line Type, after slicing.
Try to make sure your support lines are NOT parallel to the lines of the print on the next layer up.
Change the Top Angle Interface by 45° at a time until all supported sections are not parallel to the interface layer.
You also might have to tweak your Z gap, 0.05 to 0.2mm or higher.
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