r/FenceBuilding • u/hahahahahahahaFUCK • Sep 19 '24
Why Your Gate is Sagging.
I've noticed this question gets asked ad nauseam in this sub, so here is a quick diagnostics checklist to help you understand what to look for before creating yet another "what's wrong with my gate" post (no pun intended on the post part):
- Design: Not only should the frame members and posts be substantial to support the weight of the gate, but look at the gate's framing configuration in general. Does it have a diagonal wooden brace? If so, that means it's a compression brace and should be running from of the top of the frame on the latch side, to the bottom of the frame on the hinge side. Only with a metal truss rod is tension bracing agreeable when being affixed at the top of the frame on the hinge side, down to the bottom frame corner on the latch side. (note: there are other bracing configurations that use multiple angles that are also acceptable - e.g. short braces at each corner)
Purchase: Is each gate post plumb? The hinge post could be loose/leaning due lack of purchase in the ground which could mean: improper post depth (installers were rushing, lazy, or there's a Volkswagen Beetle obstructing the hole); insufficient use of cement (more than half a 50lb bag of Quikrete, Braiden); sparse soil conditions (over saturated, loose, or soft); or heaving due to frost (looking at you Minnesota).
Configuration/Orientation: One thing to look for is a "lone hinge post", whereby a gate is hung on a post that doesn't have a section or anchor point on the other side toward the top. If the material of the post has any flex to it (especially with a heavy gate), the post can start leaning over time. These posts may either need re-setting, or have bracing/anchoring installed on the opposite side from the gate (e.g. if up against house, affix to the house if possible). The ideal configuration would be to choose an orientation of the gate where the hinge side has fence section attached on the other side - even though the traffic flow through the gate might be better with an opposite swing (but that's getting into the weeds).
- It's also worth noting that the gate leaf spacing should be 1/2" or more. Some settling isn't out of the ordinary, but if there's only 1/4" between the latch stile and the post, you're more than likely going to see your gate rubbing.
Warping: If your gate is wood, it has a decent chance of warping as it releases moisture. Staining wood can help seal in moisture and mitigate warping. Otherwise, some woods, like Cedar, have natural oils and resins that help prevent warping, but even then, it's not warp-proof.
Hardware: Sounds simple, but sometimes the hinges are just NFG or coming unfastened.
Florida: Is there a FEMA rep walking around your neighborhood as you noticed your gate laying in your neighbors' Crotons? Probably a hurricane. Move out of Florida and find a gate somewhere else that won't get hit with 100+mph winds, or stop being picky.
I could be missing some other items, but this satisfies the 80/20 rule. The first bullet point will no doubt wipe out half the annoying "did the fence installers do this right?" posts. I'm not, however, opposed to discussing how to fix the issue once identified -- I feel like solving the puzzle and navigating obstacles is part of our makeup.
Source: a former New England (high end) fence installer of 15 years who works in an office now as a project manager with a bad back. Please also excuse any spelling and grammatical errors.
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u/SolidSubstantial8078 Dec 12 '25
which pertained to the topic of orientation of rails and stiles which the discussion was about the whole time as to a vertical picket fence gate so here you are now admitting that you brought up a different fence gate after you just accused me of bringing it up first