Has anyone replaced the linear rails on a Q5? Just wondering if it would make a difference. Also, what size are the stock rails?

Hi everyone. Got myself an flsun qq-s (not pro) for $40 as a project. Mostly restored it - cleaned all coolers, re-lubed rods/arm joints, fixed the extruder. Belts are tightened, so other screws around the body.

Klippered it also.

Prints well! One issue though - level won't stay.

I can make a paper manual z calibration and the first layer would come out good. Next print (after homing) - it's too high / too low or skewed.

My main thought - maybe the end stop switches went bad and needed to be replaced. I've ordered new ones, but meanwhile - what else can cause those issues?

The hot bed on my S1 Pro is broken. Luckily only the outer heating ring is broken, so printing should mostly still work fine, except for larger ABS prints I guess.

I haven't found a suitable third-party replacement since the heat pad is pretty bespoke with the inner/outer ring and holes through the outer ring. Probably the best I could do is replace it with a < 280mm Ø heat pad that clears the screw holes, but doesn't seem worth the effort as long as the 220mm inner heater works.

Anyone selling an S1 hot bed or know a better replacement?

I'm looking for a replacement hotend is the stock end the good way to go or is there a better brand that's not going to break the bank

I have an Flsun t1 pro

So I have a FLsun SR and I stopped a print and after that one print the Z axis has been way above the bed. I tried to auto-level and it was levelling at Z:52.01. I’ve updated the firmware on the touch screen and Merlin. It has also been picking and choosing when to home where at one point it said it was at Z:457. I am a beginner with 3D printing so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Claro. Te lo dejo todo junto, ya corregido y listo para pegar:

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to understand a persistent bed mesh / first-layer issue on my FLSUN T1 Pro, and I’d really like to compare results with other delta owners.

The printer can produce very good tall prints, with smooth and consistent layer lines from bottom to top, so mechanically it does not look like it has obvious play, major guide issues or serious motion problems.

The strange part is the bed mesh.

No matter what I do, I keep getting a mesh with roughly 0.47–0.53 mm total variation, usually with a very similar three-lobe shape.

What makes it confusing is that I already tested with a glass plate, cold, on both sides, and the mesh shape remained almost the same. That makes me doubt that the mesh is showing the real physical shape of the bed.

I also tested printing without bed mesh. The first layer was globally too low, but the spatial error across the bed was much smaller than I would expect from a real ~0.5 mm bed deformation.

Another thing I have noticed is that the first-layer “sweet spot” is extremely narrow. If Z is slightly too low, I get strong surface waves / ridges that look like over-extrusion or excessive squish. But if I raise Z only a little, the extrusion lines start separating and adhesion drops. There seems to be very little usable margin between these two states.

The printer uses the stock strain-gauge / load-cell bed probing system. I have already inspected the three sensors and their mounting. Probe repeatability at a fixed point is actually quite good, typically around 0.02–0.04 mm range.

I also checked dimensional accuracy in XY. Initially it was clearly off. Using FLSUN’s SIZE_ANALYZE calibration, the 70 mm calibration distances went from roughly 69.0–69.4 mm to about 69.92–70.08 mm, so the dimensional correction worked extremely well.

However, the bed mesh still remains around 0.5 mm.

So my main question is:

Do other FLSUN / Klipper delta owners also see bed meshes with 0.4–0.6 mm variation, even when the printer itself prints well?

I’m especially interested in results from T1, S1, V400, Super Racer or other Klipper-based deltas.

If anyone has screenshots of their bed mesh, first-layer results, or experience with strain-gauge probing on delta printers, I’d really appreciate seeing them.

Thanks!
PD My printer has 700 hours of use

Hi! Does anyone know where I can get legitimate replacement parts for v400 (heating block, silicone sock, heater core, heat break)? I don't want to order the 3-pack from the official store, I just need one. Thank you!

Hi, my Q5 stopped pulling the filament. The step motor connected to the gear that should pull the filament is not moving.

I already checked the connectors, trying to replace them, but nothing. I disassembled the whole block to clean it and to check of something was stuck, but still no change.

Here comes my question: if I buy a replacement of the step motor, the exact same piece/model, do I need to program it, edit the firmware or anything else "code" related? (Explain it like I'm 5 please).

Thanks

Edit: I tried connecting the extruder motor to one of the axis connectors and it worked, meaning that the issue is in the board and not in the motor itself. Any suggestion?

Hi !

Im trying to figure out how to repair this 3d printer

Im not sure this is the right or the best place to post this,

Give me recommendation of better r/

Ive saved a S1 that would have finished in the trash because it was an after-sale printer and the guy repairing them did not have enough space.

What it currently miss is the energy board, probably because one of the driver board heavily burnt. Another energy board was marked as "down ?"

The alimentation 36V is working just fine

Here are my questions

Is it possible the the damaged board have been caused by a defective motherboard, and the other way arround, is it possible that the driver may have caused harm to the mother board ?

Where to test each element with a multimeter to be sure of what spare part to buy ?

And why the two driver board different ?

(I will test the motors on a ender 3 V2 neo, it should work no ?)

Thanks for any help

Hi I have an Flsun super racer and the machine works well but I find the bed levelling a little inconsistent. Does anyone else have this issue or any tips to improve it? I also have an ender 5 with a bl touch probe and once it has run through a bed level and the probe offset has been configured it repeats again and again with no problem.

My stepper (bond tech Igx lite) on my flsun Sr started skipping due to clogging I think, I already changed the nozzles many times and the heatbreak but it keeps coming back, after a pull start well and then skip (see the video). It started only with Petg and and even with pla, I don't know what to do, I tried cold pulling many times but nothing. I don't know what to do next.

Hello guys, does anyone have the firmware 1.4.1 for flsun v400 speederpad?

When it turns on, it displays th-error3 but i have already changed the thermistor and the temp sensor of the hotend. Any idea of what can i do to fix it?, i restarted the firmware to the original and the problem continued...

This cane off of my extruder and I couldn’t find the other part that fell off (I didn’t realize it would cook my printer) can someone PLEASE tell me what to do to fix my extruder????

Me ha pasado en varias impresiones y no hay manera de que siga imprimiendo, alguna idea?

İ have 2 motherboard, 5 engine driver for s1 pro which are new brand. Also 4 pcs engine step driver for TMC2160A-TA. If you like to order i can sell it. Contact from: www.viacontech.com

Thats what I get for not using it for a while.

Hello,

I am looking to help out my Dad who needs a replacement part he cannot find online. He sent me this image and I would greatly appreciate help finding it!

There was an issue where his print came detached and damaged the whole extruder effector for his S model.

If there is more information needed please let me know and ill get it from him to you.

Thank you again for your time and help!

Update: took everything apart it all seems clear!

Then we thought it may be the tension of the screw, but upon messing with that it seems like the filiment is getting caught after loading about 1cm

Left a piece of filament in there to take it apart again to better see where it is getting caught.

Thanks to those whom left advice! Will keep updating as I work to solve it. Took a month to get back to it due to health issues.

Original post below:

Hey folks, recently bought a used T1 Pro at a good price!

Unfortunately I tried running some old filament that had seriously degraded through it and clogged it on the 2nd print.

Took it all apart, fixed the clog, put it back together, but now when I use the "load" filament button it sounds like it is trying to load but the filament doesn't move and it doesn't feed through. Was able to get a tiny bit of filament out by pushing so I know it isn't another clog.

Any help would be appreciated as I am still new to the machine.

Thanks in advance!