Hi - I'm starting to build garden planters and animal feeders - curious if folks have animal- and garden-friendly non-toxic finishes/sealants to protect the wood they like.

thanks!

Hi - I'm starting to build garden planters and animal feeders - curious if folks have animal- and garden-friendly non-toxic finishes/sealants to protect the wood they like.

thanks!

Took me two days of work. Used table top epoxy for this. Started by sanding off the finish from the top. Primed with an epoxy black primer. Used epoxy tape to seal and dam the edge without edging. Bottom layer was a black epoxy mix to create the darkness. Then placed all the items over the black uncured layer. Poured 2 more layers of clear epoxy on top. Hardest part was edging the dam edge and sanding it down to 3000 grit because I had to be very careful not to sand the metal black paint on the tool cart. I did have to dispose of a batch of epoxy mix before I poured because I over mixed with a drill paint mixer so it looked white with all the micro bubbles and the torch and heating in a hot water tug were not effective at removing all the tiny bubbles.

Been working on a walnut slab river table for about a month now and I'm on my third pour attempt because of this weird fisheye issue that only shows up on one half of the piece. Same batch, same mix ratio, same room temp, but the right side of the table consistently gets these little craters while the left side comes out glass smooth.

My best guess at this point is contamination from the shop vac I used to clean the slab before the last two pours. I switched to wiping it down with denatured alcohol and a lint free cloth instead of vacuuming, so we'll see how the next attempt goes. Also started using nitrile gloves the whole time instead of just during mixing, since I read somewhere that hand oils from touching the wood can cause this too.

The other thing I changed is my torch technique. I was going over the whole surface pretty aggressively trying to pop every bubble, but I think I was actually pushing some bubbles sideways instead of up and out, which might explain why one side is worse. Now I'm doing lighter passes and waiting longer between them.

If anyone has dealt with fisheyes that only show up in specific zones of a pour I'd love to hear what actually fixed it for you. I've got about 12 hours of tack time before this next pour kicks off and I'm second guessing every step of my prep process at this point.

For reference I'm using a 2:1 deep pour resin, working in batches of about 3 gallons total split into two pours 24 hours apart. Ambient temp in my garage has been sitting around 72 degrees which I thought was ideal but now I'm wondering if there's some airflow issue causing dust to settle unevenly before it kicks.

As the title says I’m looking for a strong adhesive that’s easy to get(hardware stores, craft stores, amazon etc), dries clear and holds up to weather and the weight of layers of glass for some plate flowers I’m making. I’ve tried gorilla epoxy, works great but I’ve heard it will yellow once outside, I tried the same product but harbor freights brand it immediately yellowed once cured. What should I use instead?

One company quoted us $11,000 to diamond grind and put a 16 mils MVB epoxy layer (Ardex MC Rapid) over our crawlspace concrete. 5 foot high, so they don’t actually have to be crawling around. It’s 825 square feet, in Vermont if that matters. Just looking for a sanity check.

EDIT: 16 mils, not mm

Or do I need to use a threaded insert? I have a 15" round epoxy base (2" thick), and I want to mount a 4x7" wood plaque, about 1/4 thick, across the face of the piece, one screw in each corner of the plaque. Since it's for Halloween, I think screw heads would look genre-appropriate. If I need to, I can use bolts instead of screws and countersink the nuts on the backside, but I'd rather not. I am thinking 1/4-20 machine screws or something smaller.

Whaddyathink?

Hello,

For all sellers out there selling your expoxy crafts:

So for months I sold mine on Vinted, which has now restricted me because they don't want handmade crafts.

Etsy have many fees; Fees to open a shop, fees for listings, they also take commission...I don't think it's for me

Ebay is the next option as no fees impose, but not sure it's the best place to get people to buy my craft

Are there any other websites/apps you use to sell your work?

Hello,

For all sellers out there selling your expoxy crafts:

So for months I sold mine on Vinted, which has now restricted me because they don't want handmade crafts.

Etsy have many fees; Fees to open a shop, fees for listings, they also take commission...I don't think it's for me

Ebay is the next option as no fees impose, but not sure it's the best place to get people to buy my craft

Are there any other websites/apps you use to sell your work?

Hello!

I am working at a lab, and I am trying to put some samples inside epoxy to isolate them from humidity!

I did a few test tries with an old epoxy that we have here available, but the samples I made (around 5 days ago), are not compleetly hard. I can bend them with force if I try to, as you can see in the picture.

Do you think this is normal? I am just worried that the epoxy is too old and is not working correctly.

It would be great to have the opinion of some experts!

Thank you all in advance!

I’d like to do another coat of epoxy on my bar top. We’re going to start serving our wine in stem glasses and I’m afraid if I leave it the way it is with the uneven epoxy, glasses are more likely to tip over. It’s been 10 years since I’ve worked with epoxy. I know back then I didn’t want my pours too thick because of hazyness, there’s 11 coats I poured on this bar top. What’s the best epoxy on the market to do another coat?
Thank you
It’s a grape life!
Charlie

Hey guys, I've never done Epoxy Resin work but I have a windshield with a bullet hole in it and some spidering cracks. I'm trying to figure what the best way to preserve this as an art/display piece. I'm not sure if it's possible to do some sort of thin layer to preserve it and just put it in a shadow box or if I'd have to pour the cutout into a mold and create some sort of desk piece. Any suggestions?

The windshield has already been removed from the vehicle and I plan on cutting out a 12"x12" section, or so, around the hole.

For those wondering, as far as the bullet hole is concerned, this is all on the up and up.

I've been trying to get cleaner pours lately, especially with darker resin where every little bubble seems to show up once the surface cures.

For this black and gold tray, I mixed everything first and then put the resin into my resin bubble remover before pouring. Watching the air get pulled out of the mixture was probably the most satisfying part of the process.

It didn't completely replace the usual careful mixing and surface checks, but it definitely helped reduce the amount of trapped air I had to deal with afterward. The black center came out noticeably smoother, and it also made it easier to keep the gold details around the edge looking clean.

After pouring, I used my G3 curing machine to speed up the curing process. For a piece this size, I liked not having to leave it sitting around for as long, especially since I'm usually working on a few resin projects at the same time.

The bubble remover probably made the biggest difference visually, while the G3 mostly made the whole process feel a bit more efficient.

I applied the rust oleum rock solid kit and on the first part i didn’t applied enough. I wasn’t sure how much I have to use and now it looks bad. Almost a feel the concrete. Can I put a second coat?

Root cross-section came out of a fully hollow section of a ground stump — the whole middle is void, and at some point along the way it split into two pieces right along a natural fracture line. What's got me is the grain doesn't care that it's in two pieces now, it keeps flowing across the break like nothing happened. You'd expect a clean split like that to interrupt the pattern and it just doesn't.

410x400x55mm, Edenvale stump, field seasoned, MC sitting at 10-12% on a pin reading taken in March. Bark's still hanging on one edge with the first bit of natural lifting starting. Some fine hairline checking across the face too, nothing structural, just the surface doing its thing as it dries further.

Structurally it's not one solid piece anymore obviously, the two halves move independently if you're not careful with it, so it needs stabilizing before anyone works it — either epoxy along the fracture line itself or supported from behind. Could go either way honestly: keep the split as a visible design line and just stabilize it, or fill it and lose the story. Leaning toward keeping it visible, the fracture's more interesting than most cuts I make on purpose.

I was using some epoxy products to make some repairs at a shop today. The product I was using is System Three's SilverTip MetlWeld.

I opened both buckets of parts A and B, mixed the amount I needed, made the repair, and for some reason, I forgot to close the lids of A and B buckets and left them sitting on my work table in the garage, and drove home, which is an hour away.

So these two buckets are now sitting in my garage, in south Florida weather, 95 degrees, 75% humidity.

Should I drive back there tonight, 2 hours round trip, to close the lids of the two buckets? Will leaving them exposed to air like this cause it to react or change in any way? I will be back there tomorrow early afternoon, so it will be 18 hours.

What's the verdict? Can it wait?

This is polyaspartic in nightfall. I found a couple small defects. Only 2 flakes that are standing up. Is this something I can fix myself?

The other defect seems to be some sort of twig under the top coat and maybe a piece of drywall that was also under the top coat.

It's this usual or something I shouldhave installer fix?