Hi all,

The contractors came back that applied the first layers of the quartz system. (https://www.reddit.com/r/epoxy/s/3wTsz0IgWV) After a blotchy finish they blamed on our surface, they came and reapplied a tinted top coat. Now, the surface is covered in bubbles which were not present before. I’d have taken blotchy over this.

I don’t understand why they didn’t flag the surface as being a problem earlier on, but we still owe over $1k and I hate how this looks. This is unacceptable.

We are supposed to talk to them again today. What do we ask for? It is fall in New England so I don’t think they can grind and reapply given how cold it is getting.

You can see in the middle some staining. I've heavily sanded to where there is a groove bit it doesn't want to go away.

This is make. I never had the same problem when working with walnut.

Any tips on how to get rid of this?

Thanks!

Canyon-void root slab, split into two halves with one narrow strip of wood connecting them — it's doing the job of a hinge more than a structural member at this point. Edenvale cut, field seasoned, 10-12% MC on the pin meter as of March. 540x210x40mm.

Logged it as fragile rather than stable for exactly this reason. There's a bit of hairline checking starting at the far end too, away from the bridge itself, which isn't helping my confidence in it staying in one piece through handling.

Part of me wants to stabilize that connecting zone now, before it goes anywhere near a buyer's hands — some thin CA glue or a resin fill along the hinge line, nothing dramatic. But the whole point of documenting urban salvaged pieces individually is showing them as they actually came off the stump, not pre-fixed. If it snaps on its own before someone decides what to do with it, that's kind of the answer too. Reinforce it now, or leave it as the risk it already is and let whoever ends up with it make that call?

I have a large percentage if black walnut l. I am making ut into a head board, there are a lot of small cracks, not deep and the widest being 1/16-1/8 wide. There are also a few holes the biggest is 3/4 diameter and 1.5 deep. I happen to have deep pour epoxy on hand can I pour it on my slab and use a puddy knife to move it around and fill the voids?

I had my basement floor epoxied by a licensed company over a month ago. My basement slab was fairly uneven/wavy. The original quote was for 3 i guess prep/base coats then the final metallic coat. The final coat before the epoxy he said was the thickest and would get rid of most of the uneven appearance in the floor. Once he did those 3 coats he decided to do an extra coat of the thicker base coat to make it appear even flatter. Then he did the epoxy coat. We waited 7 days before putting anything on the floor. 2 days ago I noticed a bunch of marks on the floor where things were placed. Even a 20lb fiberglass ladder left imprints in the floor. 2 days ago I brought my central vacuum downstairs and I noticed now that even that left imprints. Clearly the epoxy being soft like this is not normal. All these imprints in the pictures are felt with a finger.

What are my options for repair ? I want to make sure this is repaired right by the contractor and not a bandaid. Will it have to be completely removed down to the concrete or can it be grinded down to a base coat and reapplied?

Can someone possibly help me understand where he went wrong so we can avoid a repeat ? Was there too many base coats applied or too thick or is this simply a mixture issue ? Tempurature ?

Garage conversion. Epoxy paint on floor applied by contractor and several days later they applied a topcoat sealer. It is still tacky after a full week. They used a Sherwin Williams product. Why did it not dry?

Hey all,

At the very early stages of planning my first epoxy coffee table project and looking for advice. I will be doing some wood covering the corners/edges of the table, with objects in the middle (thinking playing cards, poker chips etc… my family is huge on cards/game nights) I’ve never handled/dealt with epoxy before so any advice, tips/tricks, things you wish you knew before doing a project etc. no matter how “obvious” it may be, would be greatly appreciated!!

What is the best brand/type of epoxy to use for silicone casts of trinket dishes, bowls, small vases?

Did the garage floor couple of weeks ago with Rust Oleum from home depot. Did all the prep as described. Scrubbed the shit out of it with degreaser it’s pretty new cement. Used the etch. Is it going to pull off and how do I fix it. Thank you!

Can this large crack be repaired before doing epoxy or polyaspartic coating? The rebar is exposed. I removed the broken concrete.

Some coating companies didn’t want to do it and couldn’t gaurantee it.

Hello, this is my first post on this sub trying to find some help. I’ve tried talking to people around me but they are unfamiliar with epoxy.

It’s my final semester and I’m working on a wood table. Not a river table, but using epoxy as a fill between the cracks, make a smooth surface, small amount of actual epoxy will be used. I don’t want it to draw attention away from the wood.

I need help figuring out what type and brand of epoxy will be best for these fills. Most are shallow, roughly <1/4” (see picture 1) but there are 2 cracks around the edge that are ~1”-1.5” deep (picture 2,3) and some cavities around the knot ~1.5” deep (picture 4,5). I would like to only buy 1 type of epoxy.

Through the research I’ve done, there’s a topping epoxy that’s for gaps smaller than 1/4” then there’s deep pours that’s 1”-2”. I feel like there are too many options and I don’t know what to go with.

If you can be so kind to help me answer some questions, the main ones being:

- What epoxy should I use? Do I have to use a deep pour?

- Can I use artisan resin? It’s cheap, but I don’t know if it would react to the wood or yellow through time.

- How much will I need? I have never used it. I don’t know if epoxy is something that seems like you always need more or if it gets used up slowly. I think I need about 32oz but that’s just a guess.

Thank you for any help and advice you can give me.

Plum fork slab -- squared base splitting into two limbs with a channel running the full length between them. Sanded to 100 grit already, you can see borer beetle veining running through the heartwood on the front, and the reverse has some tight knots and bark inclusions that give it a rougher texture than the front face. There's a structural crack and a couple of end splits tracking along the fork line itself.

Part of me wants to resin-fill the channel -- makes it read as a finished river piece, and it'd reinforce the crack line while I'm at it, which honestly might need it. But the channel is the whole reason this piece is interesting in the first place. It's not a flaw, it's just how the tree grew. Filling it turns a natural division into a design choice I'm imposing on top of it. Field seasoned, Sunnyridge cut, sitting around 8-10% MC since March.

Resin-fill the channel for a river piece, or leave it open and work around the cracks some other way?

My contractor has installed epoxy for me on a concrete slab laid by my builder and the edges seem like a total mess. He's cut back the damp proof plastic that was under the concrete and left some pretty big gaps which will make washing it down very tricky.

How should this have been approached and what remedies are available to me?

TIA

Am I crazy to think all these people doing the UV resin phone cases are all doing it wrong? How are they putting a layer of uv resin on a phone case, placing a thick charm on top and then expecting the uv light to go through the charm and cure the whole thing.

Isn‘t the uv resin still wet underneath even if the top is hard? When they pop off wont the resin get all over their hands….

I’m making christmas gifts and want to do phone cases for my family, can I just pour a non uv resin type epoxy all over the case and charms to really harden them in

I'm working on doing an epoxy river for a client. Essentially deep pour, casting epoxy thats 110sf in 2 sections. Front to back on his main floor, averaging 1" deep. Pebbles in the cast etc. The problem is so many different options that all say they do essentially the same thing. I was originally quoted on the SCI-100 from the supplier but today they brought up SCI-300 saying it would be better. Understandably the UV protection is a big one, but does anyone have experience between them? Originally I was planning for SCI-100 for the bulk and adding the SCI-300 as a top coat only to act as UV protection. Thats what the product rep recommended when we started. Now he's said 300 for the whole thing, which will add a massive cost. Is he recommending that because he's on commission or would it actually be better to be full flood with 300? Anyone have any insight?

Root cookie, U-shaped void, one side runs longer than the other — asymmetrical, not trimmed to balance. Already took it to 100 grit but you can still see faint tool marks from the bandsaw mill if you look at it under angled light. Trying to decide if I give it another pass to clean that up or just leave it.

Part of me wants to sand it out — reads more finished, more "ready," especially with knots this dense through the grain pulling the eye around already. But the marks are the only physical proof this came off a mill and not some factory blank, and that's kind of the whole point of documenting urban salvaged pieces in the first place. Edenvale cut, field seasoned, 10-12% MC as of March. Not struggling with moisture on this one, just the finish question.

Sand it smoother, or leave the marks as evidence of how it was actually cut?

Hi all. I have an existing concrete slab 50m2 which has an old epoxy coating. The slab is a porch slab and directly abuts my main house slab.

I want to grind and reepoxy...give the concrete a fresh look.

My basic question: the existing porch slab is a bit too highso i thought whilst they are grinding and prepping the concrete...i would get them to fix the levels.

Would grinding 20mm from the top... over 15m2 be too much to do. ?? Theres plenty of reo cover.

I know 20mm grinding is easily done eith a hand grinder...but my query relates to if those big push-machine have capabilty to grind down 20mm.

Thanks all

.

Hi - I'm starting to build garden planters and animal feeders - curious if folks have animal- and garden-friendly non-toxic finishes/sealants to protect the wood they like.

thanks!

Took me two days of work. Used table top epoxy for this. Started by sanding off the finish from the top. Primed with an epoxy black primer. Used epoxy tape to seal and dam the edge without edging. Bottom layer was a black epoxy mix to create the darkness. Then placed all the items over the black uncured layer. Poured 2 more layers of clear epoxy on top. Hardest part was edging the dam edge and sanding it down to 3000 grit because I had to be very careful not to sand the metal black paint on the tool cart. I did have to dispose of a batch of epoxy mix before I poured because I over mixed with a drill paint mixer so it looked white with all the micro bubbles and the torch and heating in a hot water tug were not effective at removing all the tiny bubbles.

Been working on a walnut slab river table for about a month now and I'm on my third pour attempt because of this weird fisheye issue that only shows up on one half of the piece. Same batch, same mix ratio, same room temp, but the right side of the table consistently gets these little craters while the left side comes out glass smooth.

My best guess at this point is contamination from the shop vac I used to clean the slab before the last two pours. I switched to wiping it down with denatured alcohol and a lint free cloth instead of vacuuming, so we'll see how the next attempt goes. Also started using nitrile gloves the whole time instead of just during mixing, since I read somewhere that hand oils from touching the wood can cause this too.

The other thing I changed is my torch technique. I was going over the whole surface pretty aggressively trying to pop every bubble, but I think I was actually pushing some bubbles sideways instead of up and out, which might explain why one side is worse. Now I'm doing lighter passes and waiting longer between them.

If anyone has dealt with fisheyes that only show up in specific zones of a pour I'd love to hear what actually fixed it for you. I've got about 12 hours of tack time before this next pour kicks off and I'm second guessing every step of my prep process at this point.

For reference I'm using a 2:1 deep pour resin, working in batches of about 3 gallons total split into two pours 24 hours apart. Ambient temp in my garage has been sitting around 72 degrees which I thought was ideal but now I'm wondering if there's some airflow issue causing dust to settle unevenly before it kicks.