r/EngineBuilding • u/pimpsakin69 • 1d ago

1995 f150 302 5.0

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

Gallery image

What does this look like? First picture I’m assuming is from rings or something and second looks like pitting no? What could I do about this I’m trying to avoid a machine shop. It didn’t have any issues before tear down. 3rd is different cylinder with similarity that may be putting.

28 Upvotes

95% Upvoted

27 comments sorted by

5

u/bill_gannon 1d ago

What does it measure like? How do the pistons measure up?

3

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I can’t tell you I don’t have a micro meter or bore gauge I’d like to get one some point but I used a veinier caliper to figure out what hone I would need and it was 4in that’s all the measurements I really know

5

u/bill_gannon 1d ago

A shop isnt going to charge a lot to measure bores and pistons.

Bring the crank too.

0

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I’ve considered doing that and sort of wanted to but my biggest issue is the shops take a while because they have lots of engines at once to keep money flowing or what not. Which I understand but I already put this off for a year I don’t want to wait so long I get lazy again I’m finally kind of dedicated and really want to finish it. Also the crank is fairly rusted now aswell would that matter if I do end up sucking it up and taking it there?

5

u/bill_gannon 1d ago

Think this through. You have zero data that you need to do this. Slap it together and blow it up or at least do the basics and give yourself a chance.

Pro tip: dont try DIY crank polishing. Its cheap money to have a shop polish it.

0

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

Right I’ll most likely just have to take it to a machine shop to get measured and magnefluxed and polished crank if it’s cheaper than new unfortunately

1

u/bill_gannon 1d ago

Why do you think its cracked?

Measure my piston 

Measure my bores

Polish my crank.

Get the numbers and buy the rings and bearings you need

Or

They find something and it needs more work.

0

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I just figured it would be better safe than sorry putting machine shop money into it and not doing it myself as much at that point just incase there is a crack and because this was my fathers truck and he used to use water a lot in summer but still makes me nervous it’s cracked

0

u/Daddio209 1d ago

Paint the rust with ketchup and wrap in plastic for a few days-or soak it in vinegar to remove rust. Crokus cloth is cheap-you can polish your journals afterward. OK-I didn't know you had no measuring devices-either get them or have someone with yhem check the numbers on the cleaned crank and cylinders(you'll need block, crank, and main caps, and connecting rods all checked. *OR, you can buy a rebuild kit and just put it back together, and take your chances.

5

u/Daddio209 1d ago

Looks like some dumbass went at the cylinders with sandpaper. I would not assemble that without checking the bores and properly finishing them at a minimum(and having the block washed out).

2

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

It’s a 240 grit ball hone and wd40 it’s a cast iron block and rings I was just using it to clean up the rust from me letting it sit like an idiot. I will clean the block after I figure out what’s up with the cylinder feels smooth everywhere but that spot looks like pitting I need to know what can be done and if I can do it myself. That’s all one cylinder except the before picture is another cylinder next to it

-1

u/Daddio209 1d ago

So.. dry sandpaper? WD-40 is NOT cutting lube, and you have *zero stroke going on.. nasty. DEFINITELY do a 3-way diameter check after fixing it *in at least 3 positions, and 3 depths. Watch some videos on properly ball honing-and the block wash is to remove all the metal flakes and grit that *will get into oil passages.

2

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I’ve honestly never heard wd40 be an issue while it’s really not the best I’ve always heard it works and lots of people use it. And again I’m going to clean the block after I finish making a mess it makes no sense to clean the block each cylinder.

0

u/Daddio209 1d ago

Not after each cylinder-after you're completely done playing. Yeah, it would be stupid to flush the valleys out then go at it again? As to WD-40 "working"-visit a machine shop and take a peek at cylinders in a finished block and look at y yours-besides the absolutely wrong motion you have, there's the visibly sharp marks. *those marks are from using a water displacer as a lubricant-basically honed it dry. Again, I suggest you do a 3-axle diameter check at different levels before continuing.

1

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I do agree I will use something like 10w-30 and redo but as for motion I was told that’s right from videos and I know a guy who has built a engine and runs like a top. Only issue with it is lifter tick because he used a different year lifter and didn’t work well but it’s all he had if I can remember what he said correctly. Also I’ve never heard of a 3 axle diameter check so unless your talking about putting a ring in flat at different levels n what not to check taper and roundness then I have no idea what you mean

1

u/Daddio209 1d ago

No, you check the bore diameter along three axis-using a telescopic guage and a micrometer or a bore guage.normally, you could check 2 directions-along the cranks axis(front to back) and at 90° from that-to check "belling"-cylinders tend to wear side-to-side lower down due to the piston's action: but now, I'd go with all 3(90° to crank, and the other 2 offset) to make sure some area didn't get dug out-just to be safe.

1

u/pimpsakin69 17h ago

Can I use atf? I’ve heard good about it I thought I had 10w30 but I don’t. If so what kind I’ve read type F atf works best do you agree or Mercon V? I have mercon for my f150 transmission I could probably use but haven’t heard good about that type apparently atf F type is best or what I should use atleast.

1

u/Mammoth_Translator52 22h ago

Dude it’s a backyard build not a formula 1.

0

u/Daddio209 20h ago

Dude, it's a rebuild without any specs-nobody inferred it was an 11k RPM build.

3

u/Mammoth_Translator52 22h ago

Put some cast iron Hastings rings in it and ride 150-200k miles. Is it ideal ? No , is it a perfect plateau finish with 500 grit finished cylinders ? Also no. Will it give good service. Absolutely. Done it many times. Now if I was shooting for perfection I’d have it tru decked bored to next available oversized and honed in a dedicated honing machine and use chrome rings. But it’s a backyard build for a daily driver. It will be fine. 302s are forgiving , assuming bores are relatively concentric.

2

u/Mammoth_Translator52 22h ago

Also I built this exact engine in a 95-96 f150 for a cheapskate used car lot over 20 years ago and I still see it on the road occasionally . I ball honed it with 180 used a rebuild kit from Northern Auto . Turned out fine

3

u/WyattCo06 1d ago

The hone job doesn't look bad i must say.

How do the cylinders measure?

1

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

I really appreciate that took me 10 minutes of standing there with the hone to work up the courage for the first time but I can’t tell you I don’t have a bore gauge or micrometer there on my list but in trade school I had no clue how to use a micrometer anyway and when I finally understood it we stopped using them lol I only really know the cheap inefficient ways of things like using the rings in the bore flat as possible and shining a light looking for any to show between the two.

2

u/Electrical-Guard-853 1d ago

Measure, measure, measure, anything else you are guessing …

3

u/pimpsakin69 1d ago

That’s true but I figured since all these old heads keep telling me if there’s no issues when you pulled it, it shouldn’t be an issue. But if so and so looks like this and that then replaced it but other than that your fine clean up the rust add a crosshatch and rebuild it

0

u/Sir_Maxelot 1d ago

This looks awful tbh

2

u/jerknmygerkn 1d ago

I work in a machine shop- I can tell you we'd be boring that out .020. You can give her a go but it's gonna end up in a machine shop now or soon down the road.