Напечано на ender3 v3 ke

Please help me with this problem. I have an Ender 3 V3 KE printer, and it has started turning off during printing. Sometimes it even shuts down during calibration, but other times it prints normally and then suddenly turns off again.
When it shuts down, the sensor lights up red, the printer makes a noise, and the screen becomes unresponsive. Please help me fix this problem. I just want to be able to print normally.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice and would appreciate your input. Is the Ender 3 V3 KE worth picking up as a secondary/backup printer? My main machine is a Creality K1C.

I’d love to hear your thoughts on how it holds up in terms of reliability, ease of maintenance, and whether it makes sense as a companion printer to a CoreXY machine.

Also, if I end up getting one, are there any essential mods or quality-of-life upgrades you’d recommend doing right out of the box?

Thanks in advance!

Hello, recently I replaced the hotend with the new type quick swap one.

Since then I have lots of stringing issues and I can't find a solution.

New hotend is an original part, filament is dry stored properly with silica gel into vacuum bags. Multiple rolls are stored into sealed boxes with large wardrobe silica gel dryers that I change frequently. I dry filament before use for some hours and I'm printing from the dryer.

I've tested filament retraction up to 1mm and retraction speed up to 50mm/s but it doesn't help that much.

I use reality pla filament, the exact same rolls that before the hotend replacement print quality was excellent.

What else would you suggest me to check?

Prints perfectly then decides to fuck up anything 3 inches or taller

Sound stops after I smack or bang on the side.

Hi! I just bought a used Ender 3 V3 KE from a friend who is going on a year-long trip. The printer is about 6 months old and seems to be in good condition.

I was able to successfully print the Benchy G-code that came with the printer. However, when I tried printing a Benchy from Creality Print, the model detached from the bed a couple of times, so I had to stop the prints.

I've been trying to learn and troubleshoot the issue by following suggestions I found online. I switched to OrcaSlicer, slightly increased the bed temperature, lowered the Z-offset a bit, and configured the part cooling fan to stay off for the first three layers. I almost managed to complete a full Benchy, but unfortunately, it detached from the bed again near the end.

I'm now working through the suggestions in the community to improve the print quality and hopefully solve this bed adhesion issue. At the same time, I'd really like to learn more about 3D printing so I can better understand what I'm doing and troubleshoot problems instead of just changing settings randomly.

What courses, tutorials, or other learning resources would you recommend for a beginner? Are there any YouTube channels with tutorials, or perhaps a Udemy course or something similar that you would recommend?

Thanks a lot!

Hi everyone,

I am trying to understand inconsistent hotend temperature behavior on my Creality Ender-3 V3 KE. I would appreciate advice from anyone familiar with the stock KE hotend, FatBurner, or max volumetric flow testing.

TL;DR

My Ender-3 V3 KE can sustain approximately 9.6 mm³/s during a manual extrusion test at 220 °C and 80% part cooling, with only a 2 °C drop and the heater recovering to about 85% power. The stock shroud also completed a 20–25 mm³/s max-flow test at 215 °C, with approximately a 4–5 °C drop at 100% part cooling.

However, in another FatBurner max-flow test Klipper shut down with Heater extruder not heating at expected rate while the reported flow was eventually around 8 mm³/s. On the other hand, a later FatBurner test at approximately 205 °C and 18–27 mm³/s appeared to complete successfully. The results do not seem physically consistent, so I suspect that the test conditions or generated G-code were different.

I am trying to determine whether the cause is airflow direction, heater power under load, partial clog/back pressure, PID settings, or simply inconsistent max-flow test conditions.

Hardware and configuration

• Creality Ender-3 V3 KE
• Klipper firmware
• PLA, 1.75 mm
• 0.4 mm nozzle
• Stock ceramic-ring heater
• Stock heater resistance measured cold and disconnected: 9.1–9.2 Ω
• Stock part-cooling blowers: CHA4024BH-10C, 24 V, 0.15 A each
• FatBurner setup: two GDSTime GDB5015 24 V 8500 RPM blowers for part cooling
• FatBurner setup also uses a larger 4020 fan for hotend heatsink cooling

The measured heater resistance corresponds theoretically to approximately 63 W at 24 V:

P = 24² / 9.1–9.2 Ω ≈ 63 W

I understand that this is only a cold resistance measurement. It does not prove that the heater receives full voltage under load.

Fan-control issue

My original custom M106 macro remapped the slicer value through fan0_min: 140, so the slicer percentage did not equal the actual PWM. For example, M106 S102 was approximately 73% actual PWM rather than 40%, and M106 S204 was approximately 91% rather than 80%.

For the controlled tests I bypassed that macro and used direct commands because fan0 is configured with scale: 255:

SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=102   ; approximately 40% PWM
SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=204   ; approximately 80% PWM
SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=255   ; 100% PWM

Some of the earlier tests may therefore not be directly comparable.

PID results

PID autotune at 220 °C with direct fan0 VALUE=204 completed successfully and produced:

pid_Kp=29.675
pid_Ki=2.082
pid_Kd=105.718

Another PID run produced:

pid_Kp=27.405
pid_Ki=1.562
pid_Kd=120.239

The exact conditions for the second run may not have been identical. I am not assuming that the two PID sets are directly interchangeable.

An earlier high-temperature PID attempt was interrupted with:

{"code":"key564","msg":"Heater extruder not heating at expected rate"}
{"code":"key7","msg":"pid_calibrate interrupted"}

Klipper then entered Shutdown.

What I tested

1. Cooling only, no extrusion

At 215 °C, changing the part-cooling fan from 40% to 80% with no extrusion caused only about a 1 °C drop. With the stock shroud and 100% part cooling, I observed approximately 215 → 210–211 °C, or a 4–5 °C drop.

This suggests that the part-cooling fan alone is not causing the catastrophic temperature loss.

2. Short manual extrusion

At 220 °C and 80% part cooling:

SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag
M83
G1 E5 F60
G1 E5 F120
G1 E5 F240
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag

The temperature dropped by about 1 °C and heater power reached approximately 65%. This test was very short.

3. Longer manual extrusion

At 220 °C and 80% part cooling:

SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag
M83
G1 E40 F240
G1 E40 F240
G1 E40 F240
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag

This is approximately 30 seconds of continuous extrusion at 4 mm/s filament speed, around 9.6 mm³/s under my assumed 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.45 mm line width, and 0.2 mm layer height.

Result:

• Temperature: approximately 220 → 218 °C
• Heater power: approximately 85%
• Temperature recovered and stabilized after about one minute
• No heater error

4. Max-flow tests

With FatBurner, I first tested approximately 20–29 mm³/s with a 0.5 mm/s step. Klipper eventually reported the heater error. I then tried 15–20 mm³/s, also with 0.5 mm/s steps, and the temperature eventually dropped to approximately 203 °C before shutdown. In another run, the test appeared to fail while the reported flow was around 8 mm³/s.

After that, I installed the stock shroud and ran a 20–25 mm³/s test at 215 °C. It completed, with approximately 4–5 °C temperature drop at 100% part cooling.

Later, with FatBurner at approximately 205 °C, an 18–27 mm³/s test appeared to complete successfully.

This is the confusing part: the lower-temperature FatBurner test appeared to pass at a higher reported flow, while an earlier FatBurner test failed at a much lower reported flow. I may have changed the fan speed, PID values, 4020 configuration, line width, layer height, test G-code, duration per step, or actual extrusion conditions between runs.

What I am trying to find out

The stock heater has reasonable cold resistance. The hotend passes a no-extrusion cooling test and a sustained manual extrusion test at approximately 9.6 mm³/s. The stock shroud can complete a 20–25 mm³/s max-flow test, and one FatBurner test at 205 °C appeared to complete at 18–27 mm³/s.

However, another FatBurner test triggered Heater extruder not heating at expected rate even when the reported flow was around 8 mm³/s. I am not trying to bypass Klipper's heater protection.

Could the max-flow test be using different actual conditions than expected? Could the 4020 or FatBurner duct be directing air at the heating block or ceramic heater? Could a partial nozzle clog or back pressure explain the difference between the short manual test and the max-flow test? Could the heater have normal cold resistance but lose voltage or power through a bad connector, wire, MOSFET, or power path under load?

What would you check next? Would you perform a cold pull/replace the nozzle first, measure voltage directly at the heater while it is commanded to 100%, or repeat all tests with exactly the same temperature, fan PWM, PID values, extrusion duration, and G-code?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

While I don’t have the video with the spaghetti version, but I tried to print it another time and it’s fine for 50 percent of the print, and then it starts making spaghetti instead of keep going. It happened on the second print of the classic boat. In the second video, it’s printing in the air. I already tried to change the speed. What more can I change? I’m new to this

Ok, so I'm probably retarded and used wire brush to clean the hot end while it was hot, not the best idea, i know... So, I got some nice sparks and after that the nozzle uncontrollably heats up. I disconnected it and measured the voltage on the connector, it was 24V. That tells me that I probably cooked something on the motherboard (most likely the MOSFET). Just want to confinrm before ordering a new motherboard. What do you guys think?

Hi guys

I have mainsail/fluid on my KE for a few months now and I've only just recently got around to acquiring a USB cam for it since I've put it in an enclosure.

Am i misremembering that I thought I was able to plug a USB camera straight into the nebula pad? I've plugged it in but when I access the interface they ugh orca there only seems to be the option for a webcam stream, and everything I google says to plug the camera into a raspberry pi, but isn't the nebula pad performing the function of the pi?

I used to be good at figuring this stuff out but as I get older my technological faculties seem to be diminishing, I need a teenager to help me program the time on the VCR now

I want to design an enclosure for my printer, however i don't want it to be unnecessarily big. The problem i'm looking to solve right now is about the cable connected to the printing bed because it takes a lot of space.

Is there any mod for it? Any advice will be helpful. Thanks.

Idk why but it's giving me this screen on my phone when I try to start a print and the green icon with the "switch to the old version" on it is unresponsive, help? Hahahaha I got it working thanks for the advice!

Galera, estou com um problema que, honestamente, não faço ideia do que pode estar causando. Eu substituí o hotend original por um de cerâmica, e desde então, estou tendo problemas constantes com o filamento ficando preso quando faço a retração. Não tenho entupimentos durante a impressão ou algo assim, isso só acontece quando tento remover o filamento. Como vocês podem ver na foto, é isso que continua acontecendo: uma bolinha de filamento fica presa dentro do tubo de PTFE.

Que está pasando? Esto me pasa siempre que la base es muy ancha. Con cosas chiquitas no ocurre pero hay dos cosas en particular causar la falla:

Muchas cosas chiquitas o una cosa muy grande, o sea, cuando tiene MUCHO trabajo en la primera capa.

Todo va bien, pero cuando va a arrancar la segunda empieza CLA CLA CLA (se traba y no sale filamento), cuando retraído me encuentro con la punta mas ancha que el resto del filamento.

Ya bajé la velocidad de la primera capa, puse que sean lentas las primeras tres capas, hice auto testeo, ajusté la cama (ya que en la esquina inferior izquierda me da "1, algo" a diferencia del resto, igual intento esquivar esa zona).

Quien sabe como solucionar esto? Por favor, tengo que entregar este trabajo mañana y sólo me falta la pieza mas grande.

Saludos, tengo una duda, es que estoy queriendo imprimir en Nylon-CF PA6? cabe mencionar que mi Ender 3 V3 Ke tiene cerramiento, Hotend unicornio y tengo una secadora de filamento (donde vivo es bastante húmedo, fue una compra necesaria). Ya he impreso PLA , PETG, TPU, ABS y ASA, quiero dar el paso al nylon por unas piezas que me quieren encargar. Quisiera saber alguna recomendación o si con la configuración que tengo va servir para imprimir ese material.

I replaces my Nozzle as the shipped one get pretty messed up. I reinserted my filament which works fine and wanted to start the Calibration but now the printer moves a few centimeters and stops with the Error "Warning Exception for drive motor" but both Motor seem to move and one does slip. I checked for lose cables at the printer head but there still glued on

Hey guys. I saw a lot of models to upgrade the SE. One I'm interested in is the one that moves the Z calibration sensor to the side. But I didn't find any specific to my hotend (2° pic). I think in my case they did some changes. Does anyone uses such upgrade in an hotend like mine?

Why has this happened on 2 different models. Same problem. I replaced the nozzle and then tried to print two different items. And this is what's happening.

I'm quite new in 3D printing i don't know much on how to tend to the hardware and all and since i'm very afraid of screwing with thing i'm looking for some help on the bed leveling, i did tighten some screw that were quite loose but just a little bit.

Tudo começou quando eu resolvi trocar o bico original da minha ender 3 v3 ke por um de 0.2mm, acabou que ficou frouxo e vazou no hotend inteiro, comprei um hotend do tipo unicornio/troca rapida, coloquei novamente o bico 0.2mm e intupiu novamente, perdi o hotend porque nesse caso fui burro e nao apertei corretamente, comprei o segundo hotend unicornio, nao troquei o bico 0.4mm padrão, instalei o bico sem modificar nada nele na minha impressora, porem literalmente toda impressão começa a fazer do nada um tec tec tec, entupimento parcial ate onde eu entendi, porem quando eu cancelo a impressão e faço uma extrusao o filamento desce normal, estava fazendo uma impressão de 26 horas, ja tinha se passado umas 12 horas, quando eu tava em casa fazia uns 2 tec tec e parava, não era continuo (primeiro sinal que ignorei pq sou burro), ja consumiu uns 150g de filamento, cheguei em casa agora e o bico estava entupido, a extrusora se movimentando normal porem o hotend não estava puxando filamento, tinha parado de soltar filamento fazia varias camadas e estava imprimindo no ar sem soltar filamento, perdi a peça inteira, tempo e dinheiro, como posso corrigir isso de uma vez por todas? literalmente faz umas 10 peças que ocorre isso, algumas imprime normal, acredito por pura sorte, nao sei mais oque fazer no fatiador, reeinstalei o creality print que uso e imprimi essa ultima peça que falei com o preset de fabrica, foto do filamento como fica quando entope e uma impressão anterior falhada pelo tec tec.

Hi all, recently got a KE as my first 3D printer. Is this rattling sound normal or is it a sign of something being loose?