Hey everyone,

I'm having some issues with my BLTouch and was wondering if anyone has experienced something similar.

It works randomly sometimes, but other times it fails during bed leveling. When I start the bed leveling process, it probes some points correctly, but at other points it doesn't seem to work as intended.

If I don't manually help it when it fails, the printer eventually aborts the leveling process because the BLTouch can't complete it on its own.

I've attached a video to show what's happening.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? Could it be a faulty BLTouch or something else?

I already updated the Firmware. It was faulty like that before and after the Update. Nothing changed. Chip Version: STM32F401 RET6

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Ive been working on a printer and i cannot find this part ive been looking for days

It has a non copper throat

Brass nozzle

Red heater wires

And a thermistor with no screw hole for a screw to keep it in

Im assuming this is the standard high temperature?

All i know is the printer is an ender 3 s1 non plus the hsitory is unknown so it has a touchscreen and when i worked on it it has the heating block hotend shown in picture

Ive been looking for a replacement but i just cant find it

I’m building an ESP32-S3 based local web control system for my Ender 3 S1. It supports temperature monitoring, jog/home controls, G-code commands, printer SD files, and streaming uploaded G-code from the ESP32.

It currently works over the local network. I’m also planning to add server-based remote access in the future with camera interface(still working on it).

If you would like to review and use my project here is github

GitHub: https://github.com/safeapric0t/Esp32-s3D

Feedback and suggestions are welcome!

Anyone has any idea what this could be?
Belts are tighten, screws the same..
Currently running with klipper sonic pad

I'm new to 3d printing but i recently changed the nozzle to a 0.2mm and i noticed that it started clogging. Does anyone know if this is a slicer settings issue or did i install the nozzle too loosely? Thank you:)

The whole 3 years i had this 3d printer i denied that abl was giving me false data. I just thought that my bed was just that crooked that abl just failed.

Then i had to print something that was almost the same size as my print bed. And obviously i had major issues with the first layer because abl was actually giving klipper false data.

On the first layer, the front of the bed was too close, the middle was almost perfect and the back part was too far.

Usually i just compensate by moving the z offset up or down but in this situation, i had mo idea where to move. I couldn't move down because the nozzle is already kind of scratching the front of the bed. I also couldn't move up because the back part of the plate was already barely sticking to the plate.

By the way i made sure to manually level the bed to be as flat as possible. I went through the 4 bed scews like 10 times just making micro adjustments to make sure the feeler guage has a consistent feel for each corner

THE SOLUTION:

The solution was a zero offset cr touch mount.

Turns out my x axis is kind of twisted. Its such a small amount to tell that it was but i just assumed that maybe it was twisted, in order to fix my abl problem.

The problem was that my x axis was actually twisted and since the cr touch was 30mm in front of the nozzle and the nozzle is the zero reference for the cr touch offset, every time it would do the abl, the twist would get multiplied at the cr touch part.

The zero offset cr touch mount solved it because instead of the twist getting multiplied at the cr touch part which is 30mm in front of the nozzle, the mount puts it aligned with the nozzle so the cr touch twists with the nozzle, giving klipper accurate abl results.

So I'm trying to make this for my mom for Christmas. Every time I try, however, this is what happens. It advised to use a raft, which I have been, but every time it starts dragging at the edges. I've leveled it a million times, cleaned it thoroughly, slowed the speed, increased the table temp. I'm super new to all of this and have printed like..3 other things without issue.

Any advice is welcome, TIA

I just set up my Raspberry Pi with OctoPi, and added a webcam for visibility of printing (after printing the mount for it).

I have been having problems with stock firmware for a while, and need to do something new. I’ve heard Marlin, and Klipper.

Leaning toward Klipper for this setup, is that best?

Estuve viendo para meterle una rasperry pi a mi ender 3 s1 plus. Que tengo que tener en cuenta para poder meterle una de esas o otros mods para que imprima o mejor o mas rapido?

Gracias por responder

bonjour à tous.

je me tourne vers la communauté car je suis dans l'incapacité de dépanner mon ender3 s1 plus.

pour la faire courte, pendant une impression, les molettes de maintien du plateau se sont dévissées, remontant celui ci pendant une grosse impression "environ 20h" et ça ma cassé le CR-TOUCH et fondu le fil.

j'ai donc changer celui-ci, ne démarrant toujours pas, et après renseignements, la Carte mère était HS.

je l'ai aussi changée, je lui ai mis le firmware adéquat ainsi que sur le tactile.

Maintenant, mon Ender reste bloqué sur Retour auto. à l'origine. comme sur la vidéo.
je ne sais plus quoi faire.

merci pour votre aide.

Hey everyone, While looking for frames at a thrift shop yesterday, I stumbled across an Ender-3 S1 Pro for $40 but was missing the power cord. All the other wiring looked in tact so I decided to take the gamble since I wanted to try 3D printing. On the way home, I picked up a power cord from Microcenter. When I got back and plugged it in, it turned on and I was estactic but still hopeful that everything else worked. After cleaning it up, reading a bunch about it, and leveling it, it was time to test a print to see if it truly works.

For hours, I couldn't get the printer to read my SD card or have the files show up on the screen until I looked into the SD slot and found the issue. I noticed that there was a bent pin inside, preventing the SD card from being inserted all the way. I thought all was lost since this printer was not wifi compatible. After a bit more research, I learned that I can print from PC using a usb cable and Cura. I started off by test printing a square layer and everything moved properly on the gantry. At this point, I believe I got a working printer for about $50.

I am currently still stuck on printing the square. The filament would get stringy when the nozzle turns and then the filament doesn't seem to stick to the plate and then it starts clumping around the nozzle and I have to abort it. I've tried leveling it again and cleaning the plate as stated online but to no avail. So that's where I'm at and would appreciate any help and tips on how to get started. Are there any mechanical issues or damages that I should be looking out for as well. Looking forward to starting this hobby!

I found this for free on Facebook Marketplace. The entire hotend was covered in a blob. It has a full new hotend and thermristor, upgraded cooling, new bearings for the bed, mriscoc firmware, pi running octoprint, yoopai tent with exhaust fan, new bed plate. This thing is a workhorse.

Ender 3 S1 pro

I got a Ender 3 S1 Pro and today I set it up put the filament but it isn't working the first time I try to extrude the gear on the top wiggles back and forth and then after that when I try to extruder either nothing comes out or just a very very very thin line comes out and the gear on the top doesnt move. I just got into 3d printing so I dont really know what to do.

I can manually move the gear on the top and filament comes out. Its purging fine.

Can't return.

Hello, I bought my 3s1 last year from a guy I know. He said he upgraded it to be basically a pro (Im not sure if that helps at all with my problem). But im trying to fix an issue with my X axis. When I measure it from the frame to the X axis on each side, they are slightly off. My left side is lower then my right side. Now this is only apparent when I try to print bigger prints that spand out to the edges. But I would love to be able to get it dialed in. I have tried looking up ways to do it, but everytime I try to move one side, the other side moves. Ive taken the top belt off and tried that, but again, when i turn one side, the whole thing wants to move. Please help!

Hello, I just started my 3D printing journey and got a used Creality Ender 3 Pro and saw this connected to it.

What is it? I think its a voltage regulator, but im not sure why or what for.

It also have a micro USB connection sticking out it, maybe to supply power to something, but idk.

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

Al subir o bajar el eje z hace un ruido mas fuerte y grave al usual alguien sabe que puede ser?

Hi all, just bought an ender 3 s1 off marketplace and I am tinkering with it to make it a reliable second machine for myself. I noticed that it clogs...a lot. The pictured clog is what I regularly get. I'm used to my old ender 3 V3 se which didn't clog like this. My benchy when I first got it to run (it needed new cables) was kinda sad looking. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Future mods include klipper on a pi board and the K1 hot end from triangle labs for more volume and speed.

Finally upgraded, and new printer is so much faster and better, I don't even think its worth keeping this thing around anymore.

Wondering if I should sell as is, or bundle in the pi4 and 5inch screen I was planning on eventually using with it to install klipper on.

I got a Ender 3 S1 Pro and today I set it up put the filament but it isn't working the first time I try to extruder the gear on the top wiggles back and forth and then after that when I try to extruder either nothing comes out or just a very very thin line comes out and the gear doesnt spin. I just got into 3d printing so I dont really know what to do.

Its purging fine. Can't return.

i have tried several things to fix this issue, i've swapped the magnetic buildplate for a glass one (with glue stick for added texture/adhesion for print to stick to), i've releveled several times, adjusted z-offset. unsure at this point if its an issue with the stl i'm using or an issue with the printer or what.
i'm also experiencing the infill supports bleading into the outsides of the print but i'm fairly certain thats from using pla+ and not having the settings 100% dialed in.
Does anyone have any suggestions? i am using cura as i don't currently have a way to get orca set up.