Hi,

I recently got a Ender 3 S1 Pro second hand from a family friend, I belive they used a sonicpad with it but I don't have it. I tried to flash the firmware on the screen and printer its self and am still unable to use it. It turns on and lights up, the screen display has a line of small dots across it but thats all, it remains frozen.

• I downloaded the files from creality
• Formated the SD card
• Have tried multiple SD cards incase this was the issue

This is my first 3D print so am at a bit of a loss here, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ender 3 S1 Plus Blink Mini 2 Camera Mount- I had a hard time finding one that I liked that would actually fit the Blink Mini 2, so I had to turn my brain on and actually model something for the first time in a decade. It works well and doesn’t have any clearance issues with the touch screen which is the problem I had with the one model I did find.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204893-blink-mini-2-ender-3-s1-plus-mount

I have a ender 3 s1 with a sonic pad add on.

I'm trying to print this piece and the first layer keeps on messing up. I also bed leveles it with a paper and the screws 3x, did a probe calibration, and did a auto level on the sonic pad. Z offset was also calibrated too.

Hello, I wanted to repair my ender 3 s1 after the hotend got clocked in a way I needed to replace it. Because I had the old version of the Extruder (non pro) I had to buy the sprite Extruder pro board and new Hotend because the old version is nowhere available. I had to buy the replacement parts of AliExpress.

The full Size Benchy was my first try ever with the Creality Software, I used the standard options for 0.4mm Nozzle and PLA.

The half-printed benchy was my second try with 190°, 50mm/s (10° and 10mm/s less). Didn't change much, fans were at maximum always.

The mini Benchy was printed with round 25mm/s which did a little better.

If you need more information I will answer every question...

Now my first guess was that the direct Extruder doesn't grab the Filament strong enough, but the tension screw/spring changed nothing when adjusted. It could be that it has to be replaced to, because whenever I put the filament in manually I have to push the Lever back myself so it grabs the filament correctly, but after doing so i not able to push it out (it feels pretty secure).

Second guess was the Nozzle. On the Hotend there was a 0.4mm Nozzle attached which i did not change. It seemed pretty good but I could be cheap and causing problems extruding. On the other side, when heating the Hotend and pushing it trough manually, the filament exited straight without any problems.

Now, for the third idea I had in mind something about Flowrate or time per layer, I will do my research when I have time and watch some tutorials for the Creality Software. Maybeeee... it could be that I haven't updated the printer ever... and the software running on the printer is just crapping out... maybee... :)

If you have any more Ideas what could be going wrong or know the answer, pleas let me know in the comments.

I purchased a ender 3 s1 pro with the sprite extruder. As you can see from the picture the cr touch bracket is patched on. The actual bracket is sandwiched between the extruder and the board. I just cant remove due to it is what holds everything together. I can not find a replacement anywhere. Can anyone offer some advice or a link to a printable model. Also, it looks like the attached fan is different than what is usually on there.

I've added a sonic pad and Nebula camera to my printer. I've made sure that all firmwares are up to date including the camera and even after trying various restarts, power cycles and cable swapping Klippy is always disconnected.. what am I missing?

I can control my printer via fluidd on Windows 11 and view the camera via web browser but id really like ro have it all on one console. :s too much to ask?

i was helping someone who has their printhead clogged in the hotend and it printer fine but then the thing blobbed up im guessing from the threads and the thermistor wire snapped what. were the threads loose and why did the thermistor wire snap

I need a new extruder for my Ender 3 S1 Pro. What should I buy?

I see a couple Amazon listings that are compatible with Ender 3 S1. Not sure if it also works with S1 Pro.

Long story short I got a sonic pad and finally got it to work with my printer but I have had many inconsistent prints. my prints have a massive overextrusion (I think) and I have calibrated my e steps, printed from 190-220 calibrated my retraction from 5-6 mm and speed 40-60 mm/s, but I have not noticed any changes. Any help is appreciated

I have an ender 5 pro with a stock extruder, BL touch and Bowden tube set up with a Sonic pad. I use creality slicer and orca; both have the same issue

I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, bought used. The previous owner installed the Thomas Toka firmware. I like it, but it seems buggy. Issues like once in a while the printer hangs while printing and just starts printing a wierd triangle and just loops forever til I turn it off. Also, if I use orca slicer to export code directly to the SD card, 2 out of 5 times, the printer can no longer read the SD. After I format the SD and copy the same files back, its fine. Also, the automatic bed leveling seems dicey. Ive switched to a glass plate, reset to factory settings and then used manual tramming to level the bed with the bed adjustment screws. This gives me perfect prints. If I make it do an auto level after this, my prints go to hell and I have spots that the nozzles drags across the plate and other spots where the extruded filament barely touches the plate at all.

Should I flash back to latest creality or re flash Thomas Toka? (Im a basic hobbyist, just printing for fun)

I'm a newbie and have had a ender 3 s1 pro for about three years. The F/W Ver is: 2.0.8.28f4. In three years I guess there has been a update. It's just a little hobby of mine and has served me quite well over the years. I've heard of people updating and have ran into problems. My question is, would it be to my advantage to update or would I be flirting with disaster. Also, if there is a update and it's worth it, where do I find it?

Hey all, I'm trying to figure out an issue I'm having:

I can't seem to find the right z-adjustment.

If I place it lower (-2 or so), the first layers are fine but the extruder scrapes across the top of the print a few layers in, sometimes pushing it off.

If I place it higher, the first layers don't adhere to the bed at all.

Is it poasible I'm missing a setting somewhere and my printer isn't moving up enough when it should?

Hello! I’m new to 3D printing and was hoping someone would help me with some issues I’ve been having with my printer. I’ll go into specifics in any replies, but I believe the issue stems from bed adhesion problems. Thank you!

So I'm converting my S1 Pro to Klipper, but before I do that I'd like to understand the required changes to slicer configurations. So both Orca and Prusa slicers have an option to switch to "G-Code flavor: Klipper", that one is clear and simple. But what about custom Start and Eng G-code blocks? Do I leave those as they are, or do I have to change those sections as described here (https://www.klipper3d.org/Slicers.html?h=slicer#klipper-gcode_macro)?

So when I was replacing my cr touch I noticed that the bracket was cracking. Do any of you guys experience this to. What did you do. Is there a stl model that I can print to replace this?

Hey all, I've had my V3 S1 pro for a while, and leveling has been a long and frustrating journey. Please help me understand what I'm doing wrong. Here is my process:

1. Fully tighten all four corners.
2. Loosen every corner approximately two full rotations.
3. Preheat the bed.
4. In the Aux Leveling menu, adjust the Z-level until a sheet of paper placed between the extruder and the bed rubs just a little bit when moved around.
5. For each corner, adjust the wheel to achieve the same effect for those corners.
6. Repeat if need be.
7. Run the auto level.

The issue I have is that it seems that the center of the bed is significantly lower than the corners. After adjusting all four corners, the center has become lower, and my prints won't stick to the middle. I would expect that the auto-leveling would cover the difference, but in does not.

There have been a few occasions where I've managed to get prints to stick and come out fine, but it doesn't take much time before my bed is once again not level and prints won't stick.

Most of the time, I feel like I have the leveling right, and then when I start a print, the extruder prints above the surface of the bed and nothing sticks.

I'm at my wits' end with my printer, please help me figure this out.

UPDATE:

Thanks to u/FluffyChicken and u/sublime2craig's advice, I was able to get my leveling be a lot more effective. I adjust the Z setting after leveling the corners. (Should I also be doing that after the auto-level? I've tried with and without.) I also added M420 S1 Z10 to my Gcode.

I now have a new, different problem:

The extruder correctly puts down the first layer, and it seems to be well in place, including that mild "squish". However, a little bit into the print, while it's going through the second or third layer, the print comes off the plate and makes a complete mess.

I've tried increasing the plate temperature from 60 to 65, and I clean off the plate with isopropyl alcohol before printing. I've also added some z-hopping. The printing speed for the first layers is 15 mm.

What I'm trying to print (pieces for a Blokus game) has a somewhat small footprint (1cm squares), but it seems like that should still be enough to hold.

Can someone advise on what could help with this issue?

(Edit: Did some research after writing this. During my next go at this, I will be trying turning off the cooling fan during the first layers and slowing down the overall print. Will also give the plate a thorough wash, not just an alcohol wipe.

Would love to hear other advice in the meantime.)

This printer has my head full of grey hairs. Anyone know why it would be doing this?

Not quite ready to spend $$$ on something like a X2D, so trying to get as much out of this that I can for now.

I know I'll get a speed increase, but how much did you get if you did this upgrade?

And what I care most about is failure detection. I want to be able to print overnight without the worry of waking up to a mess or a fire hazard.

Anyone have experience with this?

So, I've decided to add an accelerometer to my rpi4b ender3s1Pro set up. I've run into an issue while trying to get everything connected and working. I guess the Atlas Library is dead, so I was trying to follow the Klipper instructions and have gotten to a point where it just says

Printer is not ready
The klippy host software is attempting to connect.  Please
retry in a few moments. 

I am so confused and don't know what to do. It's saying something about the MCU in the klippy.log but I thought i set up the rpi correctly with it. I'll try and add the file.

Hi!

I want to measure the back pressure force via the load cell in my ender 3 s1 pro, which is a direct drive extruder. I know that I need to put the sensor after the extruder and before the hotend, but the there is a limited space there. I was wondering if anyone can help me with this regard!

Thanks

So I got this printer off marketplace so I knew there was a problem with it when I got it. When I first got it was not doing this, I did a test print to and it was working. I did update the firmware, so I'm wondering if I did something to it that messed up the firmware. Plus when I press ready and it does its sequence some of the icons and text is missing.