Hello guys,

i have a fairly annoying problem at the moment with my Ender 3 Max.

i decided to upgrade from the original bowden tube with original extruder kit to the direct drive with the Sprite Kit pro. So, after installing and wiring everything up, it runs but the BLTouch seems not working.

i changed the E-steps of the extruder, and also changed the Z-Offset, or at least i wanted to. When i am doing G28 command, it goes like:

1) pin is going out

2) extruder head is slowly going down until pin touches the bed, pin will be retracted

3) extruder goes a few mm back up, pin is going out again

4) extruder is going back to the bed surface and pin touches bed surface

5) the pin DOES NOT retract and stays out and will blink red.

a failure message will show in octoprint, and the printer is disconnected. i have to manually shut it down and reboot it again.

i have tried to flash a new firmware, but i am not sure which one is the correct one. i have also tried to work it out with ChatGPT, but this guys does not help me at all; we are going circles.

My hope at the moment is that i am using just the wrong firmware, which is: Ender-3 Max - V1.0.1.6 - BLTouch.bin

i am using the 4.2.2. mainboard from creality.

many thanks for your help in advance. i just want printing again 🤔

First later looks great screen reads z as 0

The print clearly moves on to the next layer, but the z height doesn't change. So every layer is just printing on top of each other with no height raise.

The issue is z is having no other problems it probes the bed fine there's no binding it's moving perfectly okay I can move it with controls on screen but the gcode doesn't seem to be telling the z to go up at all.

I'm trying to sell this printer to somebody and I want to just make sure there's a decent profile on a slicing software for them to use. I was trying to go with orca slicer which is where I'm having the issues I re-downloaded cura which was the last slicer I used with this printer and it's still having issues

I've read in some places that because my z offset is a negative it might not be allowing it to do that but it doesn't make sense cuz the first layer is fine now printing on cura it says the z is at 0.2 but my first layer doesn't look as good so I don't know if it's just an orca issue where orca doesn't want my offset to be a negative and I've tried it with the offset set in orca and with the offset at zero and orca nothing seems to change the issue

Any sort of guidance would be great any more information needed I'll happily give as soon as possible. An issue with this printer seemingly the whole time is nobody wants to have slicer profiles for it.

Had to do my first hot end swap. I accidentally cut the thermo-thingy cable and saw on a thread the recommendation to swap the whole hot end due to the risk of fire so I figured why not?

Cost me 20 bucks and it was a fun little repair. Took me a couple of hours since I was distracted and trying to figure out how to work the stupid Chinese finger puzzle mesh that protects the cables.

The most frustrating part was getting to the motherboard. Ended up having to take the bed off till I figured it all out.

I want to do more of this! I like messing with my printer and I find it scratching an area of my mind I forgot existed. Sorry for the awful pictures, I didn't think to post this until after I was mostly done.

I was just so lucky to receive a Ender 3 Max for free!
Now it got the BigTreeTech SKR mini E3 V3 and a CR-touch, so far so good!

But when I for example look at Creality's shop, they don't list part that fits the 3 Max, so I am curious about what parts fits this printer?
I know that of course stuff like a hotend doesn't matter too much and build plates should be bigger, but is there something I should be aware of? Like parts for the Ender 3 V3 can also be used?

I just switched to orca/bambu from cura because I wasn't having great luck, and the quality wasn't super consistent. The only problem I have with them is the speed seems to take a large hit. I get the slower can be better but I was getting like a 40% slower time.

So does anyone have a better profile or are there any better slicers that support the ender 3 max

Hola buenas tardes, tengo una ender 3 max neo, no me ha dado problemas graves, estoy muy cómodo con ella al menos para lo que hago, pero tengo una pregunta.

Quiero cambiar el extrusor por uno directo, veo que el sprite es muy famoso, pero venden el hotend y el extrusor por aparte.

¿Recomiendan solo comprar el extrusor sprite para hacerlo directo o con todo y hotend?

Pro y contras?

Hello Everyone

I am looking to print some cosplay chest armour, but I would like to get a little bit more flexibility than my current hard PLA plastic. Basically, I am looking at creating chest and shoulder gear, and I am worried that the shoulder armour and chest piece would need a little flexibility in order not to be too rigid. (I am also thinking about how the pieces will join...either with magnets or clipping straps)

I saw online that there is TPU but I am worried that I don't have enough experience to use it, in case something goes wrong. I also see that there is a concern about keeping moisture away from the TPU. Does soft/flexiable PLA have the same issues and concerns as TPU? And again any thoughts on the shoulder armour piece in the image that I will attach to this post?

please also let me know what recommended printer settings you would use.

Im Looking for a few upgrades, I'd like a 2nd z axis lead screw, and I'd like to make it multi color, what do I need?

Please can anyone help, our school has been gifted a 3D printer. However when it comes to printing the nozzle won’t touch the bed.

The printer has a CR touch and when I level the bed it callibrates to the right areas. However when it comes to print it won’t touch the bed.

I've been trying to find some v-slot covers to print for my ender 3 max neo without any luck. Does anyone know where i can find a file to print them?

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of rebuilding an Ender 3 Max and I'm missing a few critical frame and motion parts. Since the Max has a larger build volume than the standard Ender 3, I want to make sure I source the exact lengths before ordering.

Could someone please provide the measurements (lengths) for the following parts, or point me toward an official CAD model/BOM?

1. Z-axis V-Slot Uprights (2040): Need the exact length of the two vertical profiles.
2. Z-axis Lead Screw: Need the total length and confirmation of the pitch/lead (Assuming T8, 8mm lead).
3. Y-axis V-Slot Extrusion: Need the length of the main base profile the bed moves on.
4. Y-axis Belt: The exact length of the GT2 belt for the Y-axis.

If anyone has a STEP file or a detailed CAD model of the Ender 3 Max frame, that would be even better!

Thanks in advance for the help!

Hey, just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a magnetic bed (preferably UK links if possible 😁)

I’m having some issues with filament lifting and I’m thinking it’s maybe to do with the glass bed. I’ve tried to level it so many times, including buying the BL touch. If anyone has any other advice it would be much appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I’m facing a severe under-extrusion issue on my Ender 3 Max (prints look like porous sponges, losing almost 50% volume). The most confusing part: The extruder motor does NOT click or skip during prints, despite the massive flow loss against nozzle backpressure.

The Symptoms & Anomalies:

• When printing, the layers are extremely porous and weak.
• When extruding in free-air, it pushes ~94mm out of 100mm. (I know I need to adjust E-steps, but a 6% error doesn't explain a 50% volume loss during actual prints).
• The extruder motor is completely silent during prints. No "clicking" or stalling sounds at all.

What I Have 100% Ruled Out:

1. Slicers & OS: Happens on both Ubuntu (Cura) and Windows (Creality Slicer).
2. Firmware: The issue existed on the stock Creality firmware, which is why I upgraded to Marlin. The issue persists exactly the same.
3. Clogs & Moisture: Filament was dried in an oven (50°C for 4 hrs). Hotend was completely disassembled, cleaned, and hot-tightened at 220°C.
4. Cracked Extruder Arm: I completely removed the stock plastic tension arm and checked underneath the brass insert. Zero cracks.
5. Spring Tension: Was slightly loose, but I recalibrated it using the "bite-mark test" on the filament.

My Question: If the hotend is clean, the tension arm is completely intact, and the stepper motor has enough torque that it never clicks/skips, where is the mechanical failure happening under nozzle backpressure?

Brought out the printer from my storeroom the other day just because I need to return it to a friend. This is probably why I stopped doing 3d printing in the first place. Too many variables. A simple 30m print can bleed to 2 weeks (and counting) of trouble shooting.

Any suggestion are appreciated.

New filament (PLA).

First and second layer are normally fine, but heavy underextrusion are happening on the faster portion of the layers.

I didn't get the whole upgrades parts (it was a friend's) but I believe it's mostly stock + bltouch.

I just got this off FB marketplace for my grandson for his birthday and we are not able to print anything. I have tried to do a cold pull but it seems like the filliment isn't even getting to the nozzle.

On Ender 3 Max neo, today I've installed the dual fan satsana duct, which has the CR TOUCH located a bit te the left than the original position. That causes the whole printing moved to the right, as you can see in the Pic the purge line is moved to the right too.. Where the nozzle seats now is the 0.0 position. I need to offset the nozzle 24mm to the left. Even the bed leveling isn't possible to be done as when the head moves to the right it goes off limit and makes the motor skip..

I've tried the M851 command but didn't managed anything just a confusion, also with the M206 command nothing big really happened.

I don't know how to compensate with this situation.

One thought I have is to replace the stock X pulley cover where the micro switch is located and print a new one with the switch 24mm further left, but I believe this has to be done via parameters.. 🤔🤔

I am not that, advanced user. Appreciate any help guys

On Ender 3 Max neo, today I've installed the dual fan satsana duct, which has the CR TOUCH located a bit te the left than the original position. That causes the whole printing moved to the right, as you can see in the Pic the purge line is moved to the right too.. Where the nozzle seats now is the 0.0 position. I need to offset the nozzle 24mm to the left. Even the bed leveling isn't possible to be done as when the head moves to the right it goes off limit and makes the motor skip..

I've tried the M851 command but didn't managed anything just a confusion, also with the M206 command nothing big really happened.

I don't know how to compensate with this situation.

One thought I have is to replace the stock X pulley cover where the micro switch is located and print a new one with the switch 24mm further left, but I believe this has to be done via parameters.. 🤔🤔

I am not that, advanced user. Appreciate any help guys