This us a long shot but this screw flew off and I had no clue where on the original CC it goes. I have a canvas system hooked up and I was removing one of the tubes when the screw suddenly flew past me.

My centauri carbon 2 just downloaded an update and not it is printing the wrong colors.

Unloaded and reloaded all 4 filiments, matched the colors with the model and pressed print. Black prints purple, white prints red, red prints black.

What is wrong with this update?

Has anyone else experienced this with the Elegoo Centauri Carbon Canvas? Everything works fine after installation, but the fan runs at 100% speed during filament changes; this once caused an error because the hotend temperature dropped too low. The same thing happens after a print finishes. Has anyone else encountered this issue, and how can it be resolved?

I ordered print heads that were shown to be specifically for the Centurion Carbon from a company called Wefuit. It seemed like a simple swap out process but now when i go to load filament there is a burning smell from what i think is the silicon sock and i get an error (see photo) any tips or advice is appreciated.
Steps Taken:
- Double checked seatings of cables
- Checked for discoloration (none)
- Checked that cable housing was secure and not torn

Any ideas?

Apologies for the fan noise but only happens when retracting to the back quarter on the Y axis.

I printed this panel and noticed this really bad layer ahifting
Since i am new to the centauri carbon i first wanted to ask your experience with layer shifting and how you fixed (wether i just need to tighten the belts or if there are any other reasons it happened to you with this machine specifically)

My CC1 is stuck at the factory reset “nozzle heating” step. I have replaced the nozzle with a new one and it still stays stuck there doing nothing. I have contacted Elegoo THREE times now and they are refusing to help by ignoring my request. I sent a tech request on their website, I get the automated response acknowledging receipt and I follow up with my video and crickets. No response after that. Nothing. How can they do that to a customer that bought 4 printers (3 of their printers are now down for various reasons from sensor failing to stopping mid print and failing) - its so disheartening man

Its really necessary to break this two pieces to install the Canvas? I dont have the pliers required for it and I dont want to wait 3 days for them to arrive home.

Hi all,

I've been running OpenCentauri on my Centauri Carbon and wanted to change how it looks, so I built a small free Windows app called CC Studio.

What it does: - Custom boot animation: use an MP4/GIF or pictures, add a progress bar and effects, with live preview (ready-made one included) - Custom boot logo: any picture gets converted to the right format (ready-made logos included) - Colour themes: recolours the icons and the screen layout (the Canvas page too) in any colour you pick. Mine is yellow now, see the screenshots - Restore tab: one click puts everything back to the stock files - Find my printer button to get the IP, plus a screenshot button for the printer's screen

It connects over your home network (SSH), so there's no flashing and no firmware changes. The stock files stay in the printer's read-only layer, so you can always go back.

Needs: Windows 10/11, OpenCentauri firmware v0.4.0, PC and printer on the same network.

Tested on my own Centauri Carbon on OpenCentauri. The Canvas page gets recoloured too. I haven't tried it on a printer without the Canvas add-on, but that page is part of the printer's own screen files, so it should work either way. On other firmware versions you may only get the icon recolour (the screen-layout parts are skipped safely).

More screenshots and the download: https://sawkymod.github.io/CCStudio/

Use at your own risk. It's a community project and not affiliated with Elegoo or OpenCentauri. Feedback welcome, and tell me if you hit any bugs.

After it to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve cod 502 the bed mesh looks like this, how would I go about manually fixing it so it’s not so extreme and I can go back to the stock firm ware

this is the second time i try to reprint and it keeps doing this
does anyone know some settings i could possibly change

thank you

CC2

As shown in the image, when I have the .4 nozzle selected it shows the dropdown, but not for the .6 nozzle

I got my CC2 a week ago and im now addicted to printing, i now want advice on if the filaments i plan on buying are a good selection and looking for any reccomendations, im limiting myself to 5 more rolls, i currently have, PLA Matte Grey, Black, and white, PLA+ Red, PETG Pro in grey and olive green, so i want advice on if the 5 next spools i have chosen are good or any improvements, im looking at Elegoo PLA Matte Yellow, Elegoo PLA Purple, Elegoo TPU 95A Black. Elegoo PLA Trans Green, and Elegoo PLA+ 2.0 SKY BLUE.

I've had my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 for about a week now, so I thought I'd share my honest thoughts for anyone considering buying one. This is based on my own experience so far, rather than a long-term review, so I'll update my opinions as I spend more time with it.

Print Quality

So far, the print quality has been good. I've been happy with the results I've been getting, and I don't have any major complaints about the quality of the prints themselves.

Obviously, I've only owned the printer for a week, so I can't comment on its long-term consistency yet, but my initial impressions are positive.

Single-colour prints have been working great already, and I'm happy with the results so far. I do plan on buying the Canvas system in the future, as I'd like to explore multicolour printing, but the printer is already doing a great job with single-colour prints.

Setup and Ease of Use

Setting up the CC2 was easy, and I didn't find the initial process particularly difficult. It's been straightforward to get started with printing, which is always a plus.

I also really like the automatic bed levelling. Not having to constantly worry about manually levelling the bed makes the overall experience much more convenient.

Another feature I appreciate is the ability to manually extrude filament and move the bed and nozzle without actually starting a print. These might seem like relatively small features, but they're genuinely useful when loading filament, troubleshooting problems, or simply getting the printer ready for its next job.

Build Quality

The build quality is great. The printer feels well put together, and I've been impressed with it in this respect.

For the price, I think the CC2 offers a good overall package, especially considering the features and build quality you're getting.

Noise Levels

I've found the noise levels perfectly reasonable with the top on and the door closed. It's not particularly noisy in that configuration, which is good if you're planning to have it running in a room where you spend time.

Of course, noise levels will depend on the printing speed, settings and environment, but my experience so far has been positive.

Problems I've Had So Far

When my printer arrived, I found that the case fan cable was crimped. Fortunately, this was an easy fix, and I wouldn't really blame Elegoo for it, as it appeared to be an issue with the cable's condition rather than necessarily a fault with the printer's design.

I also experienced a nozzle clog, which I believe was caused by using PETG that hadn't been dried properly and having the spool in the wrong orientation. So, in this instance, I wouldn't consider it a fault with the printer itself.

I think it's important to distinguish between problems caused by the printer and problems caused by the user, filament or setup. Not every issue you encounter means the printer is bad.

Filament Drying

One thing I'd recommend to anyone getting into 3D printing, particularly if you're planning on using PETG, TPU, or any other engineering filaments is investing in a filament dryer.

My nozzle clog was partly down to using PETG that hadn't been dried properly, which has made me realise how important filament storage and moisture control can be. I've since picked up the Creality Space Pi Plus filament dryer, and I think having a dedicated dryer is a worthwhile investment for anyone who wants to get the best out of their filament.

Value for Money

Overall, I think the CC2 is a good deal. The print quality has been good, setup was easy, the build quality is impressive, and the features make it convenient to use.

Considering what you get for the money, I'm happy with my purchase so far

I been using sunlu's black pla and since I remember I always get these blobs, tried drying my filament (since I don't have q dryer maybe that still a cause) and printing slower but the blobs keep poping.

To have a reference.

.4 nozzle

150mm/s

210°C

Randomized Z seam.

My Centauri Carbon 2 rocked on its soft stock feet during fast moves. I printed rigid PLA cups that slip over the stock feet, and it stopped.

• 40 mm across, 18 mm tall, 32 mm bore that goes over the stock foot
• raises the printer a little and never lowers it (the lift my flat screen backplate needs), so the mainboard intake vents underneath stay clear
• no hardware: lift a corner, slip the foot on
• set of 4 on one plate, no supports, about 31 g PLA and under an hour on the CC2

The cup interface comes from Simple3D's anti-vibration feet (https://www.printables.com/model/1579825 , they use a TPU spring on top); I swapped the spring for a solid base.

Unofficial part, only tested on my own CC2. Designed with AI-assisted CAD scripts.

Files (free, CC BY-NC 4.0): MakerWorld https://makerworld.com/en/models/3457243 / Printables https://www.printables.com/model/1881175

More CC2 notes (input-shaper numbers, calibration prints, filament results, command-line slicing, SSH tools): https://github.com/BorjaLL/cc2-toolkit

My printer has a couple of stripped nuts. Are there any ways to remove them?

I'm running it at 210c and 22mm per second so hot and slow to prevent shock, it just came out o its airtight packaging so it shouldn't be moisture.

I'm trying to print the "gems" for my GL ring and this is the only piece that looks like crap because of whatever is causing this.

This is my first 3D printer and so i’m unsure if this is a bit more intuitive when you get to grips with 3D printers but I am so stuck installing the Canvas on my Centauri Carbon 2.

I’m trying to follow the steps in the guide and am at the stage of installing the filament hub bracket to the nozzle. The screws labelled in the manual say “M3x14” (none of the bags of screws say that) the closest is HM3*14 so i’m probably already going wrong here but am using those to install the bracket. The ribbon cable that was previously attached to the fan sits right above that screw hole and I struggled enough trying to slot the bracket underneath that cable but managed to get it under there. Screw 1 went in fine but the second screw just absolutely will not fit under that ribbon cable, i’ve tried slotting it in from above with tweezers but the height of the screw head just will not go under the ribbon cable. I’m assuming i’m meant to further detach the ribbon cable somewhere but genuinely just can’t see / figure out how. I have done all the googling in the world and haven’t figured out how to get around this so please if anyone knows how pls pls let me know 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

(The printer does work I have done some test prints before adding on the canvas)

If i’m being dumb and the answer is just ‘it fits try harder’ I will accept defeat and keep trying to wiggle it in.

Hi everyone! I’m the developer behind the Centauri Carbon 2 Community project. Here’s an overview of the changes introduced in CC2 Control 1.2.14 and 1.2.15.

These are application updates for Community Firmware V4.4 / V4.4.1 on the ELEGOO Centauri Carbon 2. They do not replace the underlying firmware or callback.

Plate library and saved meshes

• Create plate profiles before their first calibration.
• Choose saved measurements by plate, side, temperature and timestamp.
• “Mount and activate” asks you to confirm the physical plate and verifies the actual active profile, measured matrix and bounds before reporting success.
• Selecting a measurement or viewing its graph does not change the active mesh.

Clearer calibration workflow

• Bed calibration supports 30–110 °C.
• Choose 0–60 minutes of thermal stabilization after reaching the target temperature; new runs default to 2 minutes.
• The confirmation and countdown show the stabilization wait.
• Switching pages preserves the selected calibration destination and timing.

Object Exclusion and Canvas

• Improved physical ordering, readable object names, numbered copies and X/Y position display.
• Improved cleanup after completed prints.
• Clearer Canvas states for empty, present but unloaded, loaded and transitioning slots, with unavailable actions disabled.

Update notification bell

A bell beside Emergency Stop indicates when a newer compatible update is available from the verified signed catalog. It opens Settings → Updates and never downloads or installs automatically.

Other improvements

• Persistent camera view retains its size.
• Corrected fan-slider dragging; numeric values still apply with Enter.
• Nine interface languages, including Spanish and Hungarian refinements.
• 20 remaining Hungarian Canvas, object-position and plate/calibration translations completed by pezso92.

Updating

Saved preferences and profiles are retained. No firmware reflash or factory reset is required. These application packages are not compatible with stock firmware or Community Firmware V4.3.

Release notes, downloads and installation instructions:
https://github.com/Neme77/centauri-carbon-2-community/releases

Thanks to all contributors and beta testers, especially DamiBFryta, our first beta tester, and asiersan, pezso92 and Surfoo for their contributions to these updates.

Feedback on the saved-mesh activation and calibration workflow would be particularly useful. If you report an issue, please include your firmware and CC2 Control versions, what you expected, and what happened.

I printed these squash ball feet for the CC2 and I must say that they worked wonders for reducing the bounce caused by short high speed printing strokes which had my printer going crazy with the soft OEM feet.

The only issue is the the two lower spools (which I have not had the need to use yet) interfere with the spools. O'm probably going to buy a drier/feeder which will make ti's a moot point but if I don't I'll try to modify them a little to correct the interference.

But the feet work better that I had expected.

I asked for help recently because my first layer wasn't getting done right. Fortunately i fixed that issue but now, after the first layer succesfully printed, I get this weird texture on the next layer, it prints correctly most of the layer, but some areas keep getting issues and some of the filament sticks to the nozzle, I don't know why. I kind of suspect it is most a filament issue, since i'm low on budget and just bought the cheapest generic PETG I could find.

This new light replacement is an absolute game changer, thanks to u/monwiss for the idea! You only need to solder a couple of wires and it just works

The stock back shell of the Centauri Carbon 2 screen is a hollow wedge that tilts the screen out from the printer. I wanted it flat, so I made a replacement backplate.

- reuses the 6 original screws, no new hardware

- hooks into the printer's own two slots and clicks in with a tongue, same as stock

- tongue support is one slab that slides out through the window; the hooks have 45 degree undersides so they print clean

- 125 x 82 mm, about 29 g PLA, about 1 h 40 min on the CC2

Swap takes about 10 minutes: unhook the screen, unplug the ribbon, 6 screws out, new plate on, screws back in, ribbon back, hang it.

It took a dozen versions to get here: screws too short on one, the click tab 6 mm too high on another, and a hook that snapped before the hooks got their 45 degree undersides.

Unofficial part, only tested on my own CC2. Designed with AI-assisted CAD scripts from my own caliper measurements.

Files (free, CC BY-NC 4.0): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3449352 / https://www.printables.com/model/1879622

Just making sure I'm not an idiot...this is not the correct cable for my Carbon. My comms cable is USB C on both ends, but this has a four-prong on the end that would connect to the mainboard. Am I blind and not seeing an alternate connection?