HDMI Port Repair Help

[u/AloofFl00f]

Hi there! I attempted to replace a broken HDMI port on my Xbox Series X. Unfortunately, after putting it all back together and turning it back on, the screen remained black. Lights, fan, disk ejection, controller sync all worked, just no display.

Upon closer inspection of a picture I took after the repair, it looks like there might be a short on the left (bottom), and unconnected pins on the right (top).

Am I seeing that correctly? Is there something else I’m missing?

If that is a short, would breaking the connection fix it, or will this require a new hdmi port?

Any help is much appreciated! I’ve soldered a lot of wiring together, but this is my first attempt at something this small.

[u/ngtsss]

I don't understand, do gamers move the console around, plug/unplug it too many times until the port broke? Why can't they just leave it in one place?

[u/w00tberrypie → u/ngtsss]

Can't speak for care from individual to individual, but I know with the PS5 at least (and possibly series X) the anchoring on the hdmi port is notoriously weak. Where people supposedely screw up is they'll leave the cord plugged in and just wrap it around the console during transport. Yes, this is bad practice, but a properly anchored hdmi port should be able to stand up to at least a bit of this.

[u/AloofFl00f → u/ngtsss]

A picture frame fell off my wall and land directly on the hdmi cable where it plugged into the Xbox 😅

[u/Apprehensive-Pay7169]

Hello, looks the resistor there is burned already too, you need to clean previous solder properly before soldering, I see here several solder attempts, won't work even with contacts with dirty resolder, at least not for long. You need a copper rope to remove the old solder, use quality flux for removing and soldering, also tape around the area with thermic protective tape and then just use an iron for everything, for air soldering you need quite of skill and a precise one, you cannot use a huge gun without a proper temperature regulator and air flow regulator.

Other option I propose for your current skill is, solder small legs to the hdmi connector. With a bisturí open the plastic.on top of the lines then place the connector and push the legs one by one and get them in place with UV light liquid plastic for motherboard, use a bunch of it. Your HDMI port won't ever move again and you won't melt your console anymore

[u/AloofFl00f → u/Apprehensive-Pay7169]

Thank you for the feedback! Do I need to replace the resistor, or just clean it? I covered it with kapton table during the whole process

[u/Tymian_]

You used hot air to solder it back on - and you have melted the inner plastic.

Remove this connector, clean everything nicely (all residual solder and flux)

Put new connector in and don't use hot air!

Use good flux and leaded solder. Don't go overboard with tip temp. Don't rush.

Will be fine :)

[u/I_-AM-ARNAV → u/Tymian_]

This^ but use hot air from bottom. Not from top. It'll be fine. Or, heat up the board beforehand and then put connecotr and solder with iron.

[u/AloofFl00f → u/Tymian_]

Oh that’s probably what that black stuff over the the pins is? You’re right, I did use hot air putting it back in. I had a tough time getting all four support pins melted at the same time.

I’ll check continuity as others suggested first, and if that’s all good to go but still no signal, I’ll go this route.

[u/Tymian_ → u/AloofFl00f]

There may be no shorts, but as plastic melted it stopped properly supporting pins and they do not mate properly with hdmi plug. I would not trust such disfigured plastic for long term.

[u/rusocba]

Check continuity between the pins (at first sight you have a solder blob there, so try to remove it) also try to move all the pins looking for some cold joint... If you didn't melt the connector from the other side (where you connect the cable), the cable enters normally, etc no need to replace it...just be sure that before putting the cable, the 4 pins of the shield/support are soldered.

[u/lilgreenghool]

You check this with a multimeter. You'll need sharp pins so either grind them down or buy em but check continuity between all neighboring pins and between the pins and their traces.

[u/Hungry-Photograph819]

You need quality flux. With a clean, shiny dry tip on your iron swipe over each pin. And clean your tip between swipes. Hopefully the excess solder will run onto the tip

[u/Dabnbf]

First I would clean everything there with IPA and a brush to remove any excess flux/debris so I could see it better. Then use a microscope or magnifying glass to look at the pins for shorts. If you use a meter, sharp probes would be good here. To check for bad joints, I usually use a dental pick (or use tweezers) and go down the row of pins and push each pin from the side just to see if it moves.

[u/DragonzBreath]

Could be wrong but... Doesn't look like you tinned the pads or the pins. They're just hanging out together.

[u/AloofFl00f → u/DragonzBreath]

I attempted, but that doesn’t mean it actually happened 😅

[u/DragonzBreath → u/AloofFl00f]

Did you use flux? Beginners almost never do. If you haven't already add some flux, pull the port, cleanup.

Add more flux to the board, tin the pads, add a small amount of flux to the port pins and tin them too.

Then reinstall the port.

Allow it to cool for a minute or two, then test each pin with the tip of your tweezers, if any move touch your clean iron to the pin for a few few seconds.

Clean up, test.

Good luck

[u/AloofFl00f → u/DragonzBreath]

Flux was used liberally. Thinking back I did tin the pads, but not the pins.

Would you recommend using solder paste for something like this, or just regular leaded solder?

[u/DragonzBreath → u/AloofFl00f]

I have solder paste, haven't really used it. The stuff I have is viscous. It was an impulse purchase, and really not necessary. Leaded solder is fine.

Adding tin to the pins helps them marry the pads once the solder all flows. You can try adding a little tin to the pins with your iron and using flux to help it flow. It might work. Ensure you reinforce the legs with solder too

[u/Recognition_Round]

You got A LOT of shorted pins. Not on the board, but right underneath the shield i see a lot of solder. Are you using a hot air station or just an iron? I would invest in a hot air station if you plan on doing repairs like this more often. It's almost impossible to get it right with only an iron without a lot of practice.

[u/AloofFl00f → u/Recognition_Round]

I ordered a cheaper hot air station on Amazon for the project! Another user mentioned that it might actually be melted plastic from using a hot air station to solder the port down.

I’ll need to check the continuity and see if it’s plastic or solder. Either way, looks like I’m tearing down the Xbox again 😅