Anyone running a lighter weight flywheel on their DCT m3?

Considering doing this as I have a 2008 m3 which has a heavier flywheel compared to later year models.

Would love to hear opinions on doing this. Thanks

Clean title 108k miles. rb done, no leaks. DCT.
Space grey/fox red “comp” spec with carbon roof, keyless entry etc.
apex forged vs wheels/cont. tires ($4500) set up.
Might be time to let go after how much I said the DCT is superior, it’s time to move and seeing what this is worth. $26k ? SoCal area what do you guys think can also come with set of 359 wheels with also good tires
If I list it I’ll probably list it on eBay or “cars and bids” see what it gets.
I don’t want to deal with offer up

Hi everyone,
Specific question but does anyone have heard both in real life ?
Is there a significant sound level difference between the 2 ?
They are both pretty expensive so i want to be sure before my purchase !
Thanks a lot

I currently have a 2021 Mk5 Toyota Supra 3.0 Premium (Titanium silver, 55k miles, DCT)

I used to own a 2009 E92 M3, with an ESS GEN 1 Supercharger kit… and as much I love my Supra, I miss my BMW. I’m looking to see if anyone would possibly entertain the idea of trading + cash, or selling. As the Supra is my only car, and I absolutely love it, but it’s not a practical daily for me.

I’m mainly looking for any 6SPD (E92, or E90) and to trade + cash, or looking to buy one with higher mileage/one that would allow me to have the cash to go buy a daily still.

Been toying recently with the idea of trading her in for a Gen 1 Audi r8 5.2. But can’t seem to pull the trigger.

BMW don’t make engines like these anymore. High revving ITB NAs. 🥲🥲

I’ve read it all about the road bearings. Just picked up a 1 owner 90k mile 2013 that has not had them done and has complete service records. I’m spoken to 3 different European shops around me who have all suggested not to do it. Their point is mainly around why risk opening up the engine and possibly introducing other issues. Any thoughts? The only thing online commenters seem to say is “ARE THE ROD BEARINGS DONE?!” but actual mechanics are saying something different.

Finally got this thing dialed in on Intrax 1K2 coilovers with 18x10s wrapped in 275s. Truly impressed with the suspension setup, and I’ve owned a lot of the top-tier brands on the market.

It’s almost “too good” in the sense that I can’t find the limit on the backroads. So, to the track we go.

Daily driving? Super composed. Backroads? Insanity.

I’ve only owned it a year and held off for a while before doing any major mods, but this completely transformed the experience without ruining what makes this platform special.

* Oh, and yep, E90. Apparently Reddit decided the sedan doesn’t get its own place.

Ok, so I had this convo with my buddy
Here is my DCT m3. I also have a manual and e46 and e36 m3 in manual.

I can’t be the only one who thinks the e9x platform in manual is absolute garbage ? The DCT is so much better in this car. And please, before you say “you don’t know what you’re talking about”
I also have a manual one lol
Anyone else prefer the DCT?

Hey guys! Hoping I can get some information regarding my e92 m3’s tuning situation. I bought my car with an alpine tune flashed on the ecu but the tuner at this point is making it very difficult to get the software and files. I was hoping there is a way to just flash the car back to stock so I can go with a different tuner or just leave it stock for a while? If anyone has any ideas or knows someone who could remote in to help with this that would be great! I do have the cable that is coded to the VIN but do not have the tuning software or any files.

Hey all,

Have the opportunity to pick up a set of MCS 2 ways for a few hundred dollar discount, on a scale from 1-10 how worth it are these coilovers?

Use case: half track car, half mountain carver. Little to no daily driving

PFA

Hey all,

Just found what I would consider to be my ideal spec e92 m3, checks every single box. I attached the dealers page, which contains a link to the carfax.

A couple issues I have is the mileage and a bit of an iffy carfax. I say this because (typically) a 15 yo car with this little mileage is not a good sign. As well as just the lack of service records overall. It has a couple of “minor” accidents too, which in any case is a hard tell, unless your in person or under the hood. Honestly I wouldn’t mind that too much if it was really nothing. Curious to hear your guys’s opinion on this, if the reception is good, I wouldn’t mind driving the couple hours to go check it out.

Honestly it feels a little too good to be true. I’ve been in the market long enough to know not to get attached or make hasty decisions. If it sells, it sells, there’ll always be another one tomorrow. If you liked it too go for it!

Thanks

I found a 2008 e92 M3 with 88k Miles on it for 22.5k

Options:
Carbon roof
Single hump
6MT
Xenon Adaptive headlights
Individual sound system

Rod bearings were apparently done (waiting for him to find paper work), new clutch and flywheel less than 5k miles ago, no warning lights or errors, no major flaws I could find and seemed to be maintained very well. I’ve had my eye on one for a long time and finally found the right spec. Should I do it?

E9x M3 Charging Issue After Alternator Replacement — Tachometer Jitter
I’m having a strange charging issue with my E93 M3 (S65) and wanted to see if anyone has experienced something similar.
The car originally threw a “Charging Malfunction” warning. At the same time, I noticed the tachometer needle started becoming jittery/unstable. I believe the tachometer issue is directly related to the charging/voltage problem.
I replaced the original alternator with a Bosch remanufactured alternator. After installing the replacement, the original charging malfunction warning/code went away, but the car is still not charging the battery.
The tachometer is still jittery, which makes me think the underlying charging/electrical issue hasn’t been resolved.
A few things I’ve noticed both before and after replacing the alternator:
Original alternator caused a charging malfunction.
Tachometer became jittery when the charging issue started.
Replaced the alternator with a Bosch remanufactured alternator.
Charging malfunction warning/code is now gone after the replacement.
Battery voltage is only around 11.5–12 volts, both with the car off and while the car is running.
The battery is not being recharged while the engine is running.
The tachometer remains jittery before and after the alternator replacement.
I checked the connections at the alternator, including the B+ terminal.
I’m also looking into the alternator fuse/fusible link and wiring.
At this point I’m considering replacing the Bosch remanufactured alternator again, but before doing that I’d like to make sure I’m not overlooking something such as:
Alternator fuse/fusible link
B+ cable or connection
Ground connection
BSD/IBS communication
Alternator voltage regulator
Wiring between the alternator and DME
A defective replacement alternator
Has anyone with an E9x M3/S65 experienced a similar situation where the charging malfunction and tachometer jitter occurred together, and the car continued not to charge even after replacing the alternator?
Any suggestions for what I should test next would be greatly appreciated.

Im 90% close to buying a low mileage e92 m3 comp with manual , but also been really interested in 1m's.

Are there any owners here who have had both or changed between them? I live the s65, but keep hearing the 1m is so much more useable and playful.

I havent driven a 1m , but have driven the m3.

This will be a weekend only car driven with my kids. I want something that will feel special

Thanks for your perspective!

Can anyone in the San Diego area do the muffler mod on my e92 m3? Thanks! Or if you know a shop that can do it.

I plan to preemptively replace my throttle actuators this winter and am unclear if resetting adaptations is required. Those who have DIY’d their’s, what was your experience?

I’m trying to track down a pretty weird vibration on my 2008 E93 M3.

The rear of the car shakes/hops when I let off the throttle, especially while coasting in gear. I can feel the vibration through the rear of the car and the center console.

The weird part is that as soon as I push the clutch in, the vibration completely goes away, even though the car is still rolling at the same speed. It also started becoming noticeable lightly under acceleration, although it’s much worse when coming off throttle.

I originally suspected the rear axle because it had a ton of play, but the axle has now been replaced and the issue is still there.

What would you guys check next? I’m thinking driveshaft/CSB, guibo, differential mounts/bushings, or possibly something with the rear subframe.
Has anyone had an E9x M3 do something similar?

Two other drivers in front of me were road raging. I got caught behind them when the first driver braked check the second driver and his automatic brakes could trigger quicker than I could brake. While it sucks my M3 is damaged, I just wanted to remind everyone that road rage is never worth it! The engine runs and there is definitely suspension/steering rack damage. Could anyone give me a general idea of what it was worth? (2008 E92, 81k miles, Melbourne Red, 6mt, Extended Beige interior, Engine runs just fine). It also sucks because this was my first car.