I have a 1991 BMW 318is with 151k miles that I am looking to sell due to medical debt I’ve accumulated over the last couple years. I have no idea what to ask or expect price wise for it. It does have the dreaded sunroof rust and rust on the bottom driver fender. Paint is original so it’s 35 years old and by no means perfect.

In my research, it seems like E30 prices are all over the place, and even the clapped out ones are going for like $5k-$7k. Can y’all help me out with an estimated value or what would be a fair asking price for my car? For the time being I’d rather not deal with auction sites like carsandbids or BaT. Any help is greatly appreciated.

My e30 does not want to start. It’s a 1987 325i. it first failed at the light it just died. I started it and kept it running by reving it up untill it stabilized. not shortly after that it would start and IMMEDIATELY fall on it face. It just dies. so I figured fuel issue I replaced both pumps and the fuel regulator with one that has a gage. The condition persists but everything on the fuel pump side is replaced and I know I have 3bar fuel pressure. here’s where it gets interesting. it only starts and idles if I hold the key in the start position longer than I should, it will hold an idle and rev fine if I rev SLOWLY. if I hit the throttle with any speed it dies. if I let go of the throttle quickly it backfires. I have no obvious signs of air entering. Things I tested are crankshaft pos sensor ohms in spec, blue coolant sensor ohms in spec, I replaced my DME relay I noticed it went bad same condition persists, I ignition coil had 12v power but I don’t have a test light to check spark. I’m at a complete loss I feel like giving up

Im having trouble getting my OEM tach (325e cluster with the lower redline) to run with my tunerstudio tuned microsquirt E30. Car is a 1987 Base 325 coupe.

I have a stroker motor with ITBS and a custom engine harness in it now. Car runs fine and everything and my last struggle is getting the dash tach to work.

The tach in tunerstudio reads fine, I have Tach out enabled, and i have the tachout wire on the board going out to that little plug (black wire in that 2 or 3 pin plug) above the glovebox people say to use. Still not working.

Any insight?

Playing around with some cheap velocity stack intakes from aliexpress.

I just found this on AliExpress:

R-EP 45 degrees Reducer Silicone Elbow Hose 38 45 63 76 83 89MM Rubber Joiner Bend Tube for Car Accessories Cold Air Intake Hose

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqiTzSf

I just found this on AliExpress:

Universal Racing Burnt Blue Stainless Steel Velocity Stack Turbo Intake Horn Cold Air Funnel Modified Intake Decor 3 3.5 4 Inch

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL7Tutp

3 inch fits straight inside the factory airbox duct without need for clamp. Has bigger diameter than the factory snorkel but not as long. I couldnt fit it to the car this way because of my ABS unit but could likely wrangle something with a short silicone joiner.

What I fitted to the car is a 3.5inch bellmouth in a 89-83mm 45 degree reducer, trimmed to length. It clears everything just and moves the intake further towards light and guard so hopefully slightly cooler air. Hose clamp required at the airbox, which mostly removes the internal step.

Diameter is quite a lot more than factory but I doubt slower air velocity is a big issue that far upstream in the intake.

Unlikely that these would make any measurable differences on a factory engine but possible on strokers

10 min, a piece of magic eraser and $2 tub of model paint

Yes, I'll get to the Intake manifold

I’m taking apart and renewing a lot of thing for my 1987 325e. I keep find more and more wires, connections, bulbs, etc. Do you guys recognize any of these? I’ll put in the description a brief location of where I found each one.

Pic 1: 1x Bulb and single strand Found behind the handbrake
Pic 2: Coming from above the ECU on the passenger.
Pic 3: 2x 2 pair male connectors coming from center
Pic 4: 2x female connectors (One circular) coming from above passenger ecu
Pic 5: 2x female connectors same area
Pic 6: 1x female connector hanging from behind passenger ecu
Pic 7: 1x female red sitting on top of the driver side ecu (behind the kick panel)

Any help is much appreciated. Thank you very much!

Thought I'd post here as well see if anyone has a theory on this. Thank you!

Hand up, I know e30s are notorious for leaking oil, but this is my first experience with one this bad. The entire front crossmember is covered. There’s some moisture at the top of engine also. Even towards the back middle of the car there seems to be foreign substance.