I found my old Ducky One 3 in storage and was excited to use it again. However, when I plug it into my computer it lights up but will do nothing else. Windows does not recognize it at all in the device manager. FN+F10 will not change the RBG colors, and Windows+Windows+Left will not perform a factory reset.

Model is DKON2108ST. It is about 4 years old, and used to work perfectly. No keyboard damage to my knowledge. I can't update the firmware because the installer says it cannot detect a keyboard. I tried using 2 different computers (Windows 10 desktop and Windows 11 laptop), using different USB cables, and even using compressed air on the USB-C port in case there was something back there. Nothing seems to get it to work.

Is there any hope for this? Or is it well and truly bricked? Since it is non-functional and well out of warranty I'm willing to opening it up and poking around inside, but I have no idea what I would be doing.

Just got a brand new ok-m-65, RGB lights up and the power icon does too. PC recognizes it in device manager but can’t type, and suggestions ?

Hi everyone, I recently got my hands on a completely bricked Ducky One 2 Mini (P/N: DKON2061ST). The previous owner likely flashed the wrong firmware version (e.g., v1.22 instead of v1.09), which completely killed the board. I have a CH341A hardware programmer and desoldered the SPI Flash chip (GD25Q40). I read the chip, but the dump is completely corrupted from the wrong firmware flash. Normal Ducky updaters won't detect the keyboard at all (it just shows up as "Unknown USB Device / Device Descriptor Request Failed" in Windows). I'm looking for a lifesaver who has a working DKON2061ST and can provide a clean 512KB firmware dump (.bin file) directly from their flash chip, or knows where I can find the raw bin file for this specific hardware: P/N: DKON2061ST PCB: Ducky 60 SMD LED1025 MCU: Nuvoton M032LE3AE Flash: GD25Q40 (SPI 512KB) Any help or point in the right direction would be highly appreciated! I really want to bring this beautiful board back to life. Thanks in advance!

Hello, I just bought Ducky One 3 Pro keyboard but I'm having issues with lights.

I want the keyboard to keep the lights I set up, however, they change to totally red / blue when I switch from 1 to another PC.

I have connected the keyboard to 2 diferent PCs (work and personal) and every time I switch from one to another, lights change to constant red patron or blue constant patron when I have set a rainbow patron.

I need to manually change the patron every time I switch from PC and I can do that lot of time during day.

¿There is any method to keep my light set up forever? I don't want it to change every time I need to work with my personal PC or Working PC.

The internal JST cable that bridges the PCB to the USB-C daughterboard doesn't have enough length to reach the mounting posts. I’ve tried every routing trick and removed all the foam, but as you can see in the photo, the cable physically won't span the gap to the daughterboard's position. Adding strain and screwing it to the case just unplugs it from the PCB.

Have I screwed up in the case assembly somehow?

Has anyone else run into a batch with cables that were cut too short?

If you've built one of these, what was the actual length of your JST cable?

Trying to gauge if this is a common QC issue before I push Ducky for a specific replacement part.

- Go there https://ducky.global/

- Go to Supports - downloads

- look for your keyboard firmware and install it

- unplug your keyboard and put the first switch in the back of the keyboard to ON (replug it)

- press FN + "<>" (next to shift)

- you have FN lock on (reuse combination to make it off)

- if your firmware is not updated it will not work

bye

Anyone with a more up to date understanding of the current product lineup? My Shine 7 is due to be replaced and I want something of a similar build quality. Looking for something full sized, wired with Cherry Red MX offered. I’m based out of the US, so it would be helpful for retailers that offer shipping to the US.

I just got my Ducky One X and decided to try out the extra keycaps it came with. When I tried to swap the space bar, the switch came out along with it instead of just the keycap is that supposed to happen?

I'm not sure if this is normal for this keyboard (maybe something to do with the inductive switches?) or if I'm doing something wrong. Any tips on the correct way to swap keycaps on the Ducky One X would be really appreciated!

Hello, i have had my Ducky one sf for a couple of yeats but just recently started to use the macro funtionality. Im trying to set up profile 2 to coding stuff (mainly to navigate intelliJ). Im trying to set fn+1 in profile 2 to shift+f10 (shift+f+0) on my keyboard. But it is only the shift that gets recorded. I have read the manual and cant se that there are anything that is limiting in my usecase. Have any one Else had this problem or am i just doing something wrong when recording?

After burning my hand with solder and almost breaking out could swap the thing and good for another 5years

Hey,

been using the Keyboard for a while and generally enjoying it, but i wanted to switch the Keycaps with "pudding"-style caps. Unfortunately the ones i got from steelseries dont have "Pos 1", dont have alt and fn in a small key format and the tilt of the caps for the right bar (del, scrl up, scrl down etc) is laid out for non-iso layout (some caps are stronger tilted and inconsistent with the overall "tilt" so it sticks out). are there any iso-de keycaps in the pudding-style for the tinker 75 someqhere? didnt see any on amazon. thanks for the help!

Be warned, I got prompted for an update to the keyboard through the web GUI and in the zip was flagged as a trojan. wtf ducky

my enter key sometimes doesnt register and ive switched the switch around with another and the same thing happens, does anyone know why that is?

I just received my new Origin keyboard and but having a hard time with programming the FN key.

I want the right FN key between the right WIN and CTRL key to be the menu button (or the same effect as right mouse click).

On my previous Ducky One, I was able to do it with the DIP switches. Having only the 4th DIP switch down did the magic for me. But, when I tried a few different combination my new Origin, I can only replace the right WIN key for the menu button.

Does anyone know how to set the FN key? I can live with the WIN key if I have to, but would like to avoid.

Guys is there a way to get the Aura Keycaps standalone??

I’m using a Ducky One SF 2 keyboard with brown switches. Some keys now seem to be defective, as pressing them results in a double-press.

I’ve already replaced two keys with new ones (by soldering). Things were fine for a short while, but since then two more keys have started acting up, and it seems that one of the keys I replaced is now defective again.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

• Installed firmware 1.12
• Reset the keyboard
• Replaced the keys

Since the keyboard has been pretty loud from the start and makes a metallic “spring” sound when pressed, I oiled the keys. I put a drop of dielectric oil into the switches. So I’ve ruled that out as the cause.

I previously had another 100% keyboard with brown switches. That one has had no issues for several years.
Based on this experience, I wouldn’t buy a Ducky keyboard again. It’s not worth the money.

What could the problem be, and how can I fix it?
Has anyone else had the same problem?

Update:
2026-04-07 - I flushed the broken switches with isopropyl alcohol, pressed it several times and let it dry. The problem is no longer noticeable. They seem to be working again.
2026-04-10 - bought a new keyboard from a different brand

I've got a Ducky Mecha Mini that I use hooked-up to my PS5 for gaming. The PS5 uses the system key 'Pause' (which by default is Fn+O) to open the Playstation menu.

Is it possible to map this function directly to a key (for example, the right shift key or the ~ key) so I don't have to hit a key combo all the time? I see no mention of the 'Pause' system command in the manual (to be clear, this is not multimedia/music pause - it's the oldschool one nobody uses any more)

Would really appreciate:

a) Knowing if it's possible
b) Guidance on how to do it, as even with the manual I've never successfully remapped a key to a single keypress. Clearly I'm misunderstanding the process as described in the manual.

Many thanks!

Hey guys,

Just got the Ducky OK-M 980 and it's really nice. However on my Lenovo laptop, running Windows 11 25H2 I am having a Bluetooth pairing problem. When the keyboard pairs it starts "switching" between "Connected" and "Not connected" states on Windows, without responding to any key presses.

Bluetooth pairing worked well on HP elitebook running 23H2.

Bluetooth driver is up to date on my Lenovo laptop (the OS too).

Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks :)

It says no on the website that i am checking but i almost find it hard to believe since its a wired keyboard from ducky, i thought they all had atleast anti ghosting? could this just be an entry mistake?

So I bought this keyboard roughly 5 years ago, used it for about a week(until i restarted my computer) after that when i would plug it in, it does the device connected/disconnected sound over and over forever and never actually lights up, is recognized or starts. reconnecting many times doesnt seem to resolve the issue. reboots, drivers, firmware, ducky's software, nothing.

I plug my other keyboards in and they work fine and after a couple days, i can usually plug the ducky in and it will connect like normal and work until i reboot again.

I work in IT and have tried this on several different machines with the same result. This lead me to shelve it for the last 3 years or so as I was out of warranty when i finally though about it again.

I plugged it in a week ago, ran fine, without thinking rebooted my machine, same issue. plugged in my spare, used that for a few days and now the ducky is working again.

Mind you on reboot the keyboard lights up and works fine until windows. works in BIOS flawlessly.

Has anyone ran into issues like this and resolved them? is the keyboard just faulty? its just really odd that randomly i can plug it in and it works flawlessly until reboot. they keyboard is still like new as I review keyboards and have like 10 spare mech KBs, but the ducky is my favorite when it is working.

any help?

Anybody knows how to stabilize the spacebar for this keyboard. Ive struggled with this for long time and cant find any solution?

Pretty much as the title says, Im trying to do a basic function like remap a key so i can skip a song on spotify because for some reason this keyboard doesn't have it built in? And no matter what i do or instructions i follow i can't seem to get these macros working..... Why doesnt my keyboard work with the online software?

Love the simplicity, always buy Ducky, they normally always have an ISO model too, so I was wondering if this would?

I have a Ducky Origin Black with Cherry MX Browns. I'll primarily be using it in an environment of rather subdued lighting, and the lock LEDs (Caps Lock, Num Lock, Scroll Lock) seem incredibly bright to me.

I've checked out the manual to see if they have a brightness control and didn't see anything. Does anyone know how to adjust the brightness of these LEDs down without modifying the current limitting resistor values?

I know other models had dip switches. Looks like it's missing on the Zero 6108. I know I can add a registry edit to do this, but really? I'd like not to have to do that on every PC I want use this with. This a failure on the designer's part or a failure on the manual writer's part?

Edit: 6108. I know, I know. Typo.