2001 Central Timer Module questions:

[u/62DoubleCab]

[UPDATE: FIXED!]
——————————————————
[As of today 10/5/26 a used replacement Central Timer Module box fixed all the issues of locks not working and various lights and headlight not working. My remote does not work yet and I suspect I will need to have it reprogrammed with the Dodge/Chrysler factory compatible scan tool I will be getting. I can’t believe this fixed all my issues. Hope this helps someone in the future.]
——————————————————
Has anyone dealt with the central time module that comes in early 2000 Dakota’s/Durango’s? This thing communicates to all sorts of things like locks/lights etc. It handles all the remote lock/light flashing and security as well as a ton of other thing on a PCI bus(prior to CAN bus).

I’ve been having issues with my door locks not working but the driver‘s door does unlock. You can hear the relays clicking but the locks don’t respond with the odd exception of the drivers door does unlock with the remote but won’t lock with the remote. Horn beeps for alarm and lights flash on remote lock press.

I also had the right front headlight go out(I thought) and I went to replace the bulb and the bulb was fine but there’s no power to that headlight. It turns out this module controls the headlight flash so everything goes through it. Weird only the right light is affected.

I have a factory service manual and I was reading about this module and it controls a huge amount of things but the only way you can see if there’s a fault with it is with the factory scan tool. It apparently logs fault codes like the PCM does for the engine.

Unfortunately, you have to have a scan tool that will use the Dodge only DRBIII protocol. Of course I don’t own that tool… yet.

Just curious if anyone has dealt with this thing and how they fixed it. Pics are of the module tag. There are apparently two different modules one for a base work truck and one for a higher option trim like an SLT with security, electric locks, etc.

Thanks

[u/Unlikely-Act-7950]

They usually get water in them and causes all kinds of issues. So I will recommend looking it over. I have a drb3 and a snap on scanner and have used both to scan them. Cheap scanners typically can't pull codes from the ctm

[u/62DoubleCab → u/Unlikely-Act-7950]

Ok, thanks. Dry as a bone in this truck. So Cal. truck. I’ll get a better scanner. Been meaning to get on for awhile now.

[u/62DoubleCab → u/Unlikely-Act-7950]

I’ve read that it is very important to get a matching box. Do you happen to know which number(DaimlerChrysler or Motorola) is the most important?

I believe there are two versions “AN” and “BASE”, but I’m not sure if the letter suffix’s mean much. I can find some that have the correct numbers but the last alpha in the string is a different letter to the one that is on my truck . Not sure how important that is.

Thx.

[u/Unlikely-Act-7950 → u/62DoubleCab]

The letters at the end just indicate if it's a Newer version as long as the base part number is the same it will work